Rockfax Description
The corner above a large pedestal block. By-pass the top overhangs on the right to a good ledge. Direct is 5a. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Farrell, Gordon Jenkin 13.8.84 13/Aug/1984

takaczapka 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ned
Slarti B 05/Aug/17 2nd

I thought this was quite scary, balancy travers on polished rock, and gear not very good. Great lead by Ali

with Alistair
SuperLee1985 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S

I enjoyed this route despite is being pretty wet in the corner. Steve backed off on account of the wetness and I had a go. Most of the obvious hand holds were pretty sopping and not very useable so I had to be creative to make progress. Lots of back and footing and palming off of the back/side wall. Lots of gear in the thin vertical crack, but strenuous on the legs to place it. Eventually squirmed my way up and out of the corner to a delicate (because of the wed handholds) traverse to the ledge. Took me while to work out what to do at this point but once committed it turned out to be enjoyable jug pulling all the way to the top.

Yaz Abbas 28/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Will Beaumont, Rachel Wellman, cheque
Beach 11/Jun/17 Lead

Dry ledge!!

with John good
steve2006 10/Jun/17 2nd

5a direct version.. the start was very difficult in the wet

with aaron
Hidden ?/Jun/17 -
tasp05 20/May/17 Lead O/S
Jpinnegor 20/May/17 2nd
Whipinator 14/May/17 Lead O/S
ngreen 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Conor Nally 16/Apr/17 Lead
with Rosh
Conor Nally 16/Apr/17 Lead
with Rosh
ethanstoddart 15/Apr/17 2nd β
davidbird63 09/Apr/17 2nd
CraigPerl 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with trisvye
Hidden 01/Apr/17 Lead
SuePearson ??/2017 2nd
hfotheri 12/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with simon
Norman_P_W 07/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/16 TR O/S
Lilla Horvath 31/Jul/16 TR O/S
with Will
steve_gibbs 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
George Frisby 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Craig Hiscock 09/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd dog
Matt Smith 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
andycash 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ian harris
Archbishop 17/Apr/16 2nd

Direct line

with Dan Shacklock
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
bmda106 ??/2016 Lead
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
DeanJPepper 03/Oct/15 2nd
elfka 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
lazza 12/Aug/15 Lead
with mark
montymoo 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
krispy_fish2000 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Isolde
aide454 18/Jul/15 2nd
mariannekhoo 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

CC guidebook has a better description of the route (but a worse topo!) compared to the Rockfax description. The corner is indeed polished but I don't think it makes the route any harder.

lazza ?/Jul/15 2nd
with mark
ADAMSTUBS ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
alice270 31/May/15 2nd O/S

Left 4 mm nut at start

with Moritz
Moritz L 31/May/15 Lead O/S
with Alice
mattprince 30/May/15 Lead
with Craig Fox, Liam Foster
Joris.Roulleau 25/May/15 Lead O/S

not a pleasant climb

patb82 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Nath Mason, Kev Campbell
kev1307 25/Apr/15 Lead
with patb82, Nath Mason
Vnockles 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
matt1024 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tor
mattprince 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with David Holmes-Evans
Stroppy 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Sam Husband 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ed
JDG2428 01/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Echna 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
mdjb 27/Sep/14 -
nikinko 06/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Pleased to do this clean. Went direct. (5a).

with Dan C
DanC1985 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Climbed the direct route: 5a in Rockfax

with Nicky
mikehenesy 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Went straight up so I guess that was the 5a. Buggering struggle to find the way but not bad when sussed. There's a natural 'glaze' on the rock where the water seeps down bringing a little bit of shiney 'tite', but its not that slippy its ok, go for it dude, tons of good pro.

with Sonia
sonic46 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Mike H
Montecore 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Had a mini epic 2/3 up... OK once I found a foothold I'd missed. Exposed and quite hard

with Matt Ray
CRiddiford 12/Jul/14 2nd
with Chris
Trace ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Got stuck under the volume but an awesome climb!

uncontrollable 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

somewhat went offroute at the finish

with Daj
Gareth 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mark
montymoo 25/Jun/14 2nd
with Gareth
Katsmiff 25/May/14 2nd O/S

Wet in places. Arm effort required.

Piers Harley 25/May/14 Lead β

A great deal harder when wet!

with Catherine
Pike 25/May/14 2nd O/S
with Angus McBride, Mark Condon
andyclimber 25/May/14 2nd O/S
joeallen28 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Direct 5a. Had a stinker removing the second runner which totally knakered me for the rest of the climb. Arms pumped on tricky 5a finish!

Sam4242 23/Mar/14 Lead
Dan_F 16/Mar/14 2nd

awkward at the top, interesting but not one id like to lead on my 1st day trad...

paultaylor 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hamish777 30/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Andrea
andrea83 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quite tricky.

with Hamish
Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
cpoad 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S

5a Direct finish

with Dan P
dpiddock 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Direct finish

with Chris P
strudles 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S


Skullfire 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd
john1 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with ian miller
Julian Prieto 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Direct finish

hector 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
stonemikey 07/Jul/13 2nd
with Mark Ward
Geoffers 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lauren
Headjamm 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Geoffers
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
patrickc 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
tombushell 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Sam Husband 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
tedburt 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
DanC1985 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic and fun

with Trevor
neilwiltshire 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Tim Cooper
jopayne1988 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Georgia H ?/Apr/13 Lead
jezb1 31/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
nick_curtis01 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Initial start was hard due to the direction of the rope pull. Once past this very tight corner start I felt comfortable. Overcast weather.

with Georgia Hancock
grp 10/Mar/13 Lead O/S
cem 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Alexey Kravets, Isabel Hadley
Steve J T 29/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
bpmclimb 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Direct finish

with Tom MOP, Luke
Lynnliu ?/Jul/12 2nd
Fiona McFarlane ?/Jul/12 Lead

Wet! Took direct route (5a) as holds on other option slippery. Had to rest in rope after faffing with non direct route first.

with Lynn Liu
dpm23 18/Jun/12 Lead
Dave Mahon 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Brian Mead
stranter 02/Apr/12 2nd dog

Direct finish for 5a. 1 quick rest.

gilmourheid 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Steve27
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead
Slarti B 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Paul
adam 24 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Tangerine_Kingdom 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
andycash 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with jason cash
jasoncash 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
AndyFunnell 29/Aug/11 2nd
katherinesydney 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

oops: thought i was climbing resurrection. obviously shite routefinding but managed to stick mostly to lag's corner to begin with... think i finished on bunneys wall though! bottom of climb was really greasy

risby 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 14/Aug/11 Lead

Very polished, and a bit damp.

jasonpm 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Simon Chandler
jez_palmer 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Cat G 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
will_benfold 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Did the direct finish.

with Miles
Liz Wakelin 09/Jul/11 2nd
with Josie Herbert
ElBarto 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Hard but nice climb with good gear placements.

jo86 26/Jun/11 Lead

slightly wet and greasy, but good holds and reasonable gear.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
diamond rib 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Dan Sanderson, Adam Wheeler
callans 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Committing finish.

katiep 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely, with an exiting finish

with Callan
andycash 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with chris day
wi11 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Steve954 14/May/11 2nd O/S

Rich lead, I went second. The lower section above the large block at the start is very polished but the holds are all there. At the top came right to go round the 4th tooth but ended up going over the top of it. Enjoyed it and great end to the days climbing

with Andy, Rich
steve2006 08/May/11 2nd

andrew did the direct (5a) finish

james steven turney 08/May/11 2nd
Big Lee 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Strenuous climbing but gear was sound all the way

with Daniel
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
lostinmidlands 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Right finish.

with nil4e
Neil Rigiani 27/Mar/11 Lead
nick hawkins 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Finished off to the right, possibly on bunnies wall

with steve
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Amy Kilpin 19/Mar/11 2nd
Rhys Jones 18/Mar/11 -
stranter 17/Mar/11 2nd β
gibsond 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Direct Finish.

with Stewart Walker
AlexD 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S

very wet!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Alex
ben.richards 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Szilard
nikinko 07/Nov/10 2nd dog


with liam
ElvisLeg 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Luke Goble
Rhys Jones 11/Oct/10 -
with Bram
Bram 11/Oct/10 Lead
with Rhys Jones
Tommy Harris ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
topropechop ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S
LukeyG ?/Oct/10 2nd
with Ash
gcandlin 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Oliver wand
uncontrollable 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Julian, Mark J
andyfeds 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Finished direct

with Jo W
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/10 2nd
eugeneth 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

did direct version at 5a

with Matt Harris
jezb1 02/Aug/10 Lead

5a (more like 4c) direct finish, greasy.

daveyji ?/Aug/10 Lead

Didn't notice polish. Found it very tough for VS but was only my second Swanage climb. Swanage grades do feel very stiff.

with Linda Williamson
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
LoopyLou 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Direct finish recommended.

with Thea Williams
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd
Marti999 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
matt25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead O/S
climbtim 07/May/10 2nd
Ceridwen 03/May/10 2nd rpt
with Thomasina
andyfeds 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Nice climb if you can bridge past polish on first move. Lovely threadable handle on right for final moves.

with Andy C
The Ivanator 07/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Stewart
Hidden 11/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Carly 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Richard
toeshurtN8 ??/2010 2nd
petedunford183 ??/2010 2nd
MarkRyder 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ashley
daviesp2 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd
The Ivanator 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Reckon the Old Lag's not Russian ...must be Polish judging by the glassy finish on these holds. Worth doing though.

with Rich
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
tdudley 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Gary Lewin, Andy
jezb1 22/Jul/09 Lead

Went straight up but still felt 4c. Bit damp.

Beccajane1983 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Direct 5a over the overhang.

with Heloise
andy jennings 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Floris
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
d_meacher 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Webster 15/Jun/09 2nd

did the direct 5a finnish

Hidden 24/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
Nozzer 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/09 2nd
Kyle Rance 12/Apr/09 Lead
with Chris Cracknell
igneouscarl 28/Mar/09 2nd
with Tom Stahl
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/09 -
Monkey_Alan 14/Feb/09 2nd
uncontrollable 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S

once again on the "wrong" route. realised when checking the guide later that this was not an HS;-) nevertheless an enjoyable route just a bit greasy!

with Viskii, Alan B
hrgcb ??/2009 -
with Joe Prinold
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
SusanH ??/2009 2nd
Disco ??/2009 Lead O/S
Alexstone ??/2009 Lead O/S
Tamlyn 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
Blisco 18/Oct/08 Lead dog

Wandered right a bit in the middle section, then rested on gear below the overhang. May have done the 5a finish but it was hard to tell.

with Michael Hopert
Rollo 11/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom CUMC
Oceanic 26/Jul/08 -
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
flatcap 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Remarkably, I got this cleanly. My ascent was a catalogue of schoolboy errors. Several careless slips (recovered); I dropped my krab of small nuts (downclimbed to recover them). Despite the dry weather, this climb was damp and greasy, but only on the right hand side. It made bridging interesting.

with Phil
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
MontyH 12/Jul/08 Lead
with Paul Milton
cherad 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S

finished direct at 5a. First trad route at swanage.

with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
LiLaMont 31/May/08 2nd β
tobydunford 31/May/08 Lead O/S
riddle 31/May/08 Lead β

a dirty, greasy and altogether unpleasent route.

with Yasmina
SimonOliver 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tristian
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Mark Beecher
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd β
Marq 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Livingstone, Anthony Schwirtz
hailtryfan ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with Bob Pegram
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
SamStrong 21/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Rob Dyer
Theeni ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
djking1983 12/Sep/07 Lead
with Barry Rood
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead RP
Mr Tickle 15/Jul/07 2nd O/S
mrtom 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S

"great is you like climbing glass or come from Avon, Cheader way :-) Darren Cook - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Dodge" Heh. I loved it, and I *do* come from Bristol :) Thought it was a good route, polished but fun non the less. Oh, and did the direct (5a) version

with Deophine and Chris Baily
duncan 07/Jul/07 2nd
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
pelvoux 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jonathan
eldre070 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

The direct 5a finish.

with Rob Floyd
Hidden 08/Apr/07 2nd
winter_burn 01/Apr/07 Lead dog
with jake
flyboy86 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
prof_vague ?/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Paul
JDSwain 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S

VS 5a top section

with Alex Balch
Kit Gillibrand ?/Mar/07 2nd
Tom Gadsden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Roly
Bob M 11/Feb/07 Lead
with Pete Sedgwick
Jesse Dufton ??/2007 Lead
bob3141 29/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
aged_ape ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with KM
mattpw ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Sally Mac
Piers Harley 06/Sep/06 Lead β
with Rob Marson
Ian_gozer 13/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Greg
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
MontyH 24/Apr/06 Lead
with Paul Milton
maybe_si 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
jchenoweth 08/Apr/06 Lead
Oddjob 08/Apr/06 2nd O/S
lazza ?/Apr/06 Lead
with Gareth
Dorset ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Helen Conyers
Hidden 25/Dec/05 Lead O/S
broc 13/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with John
colin milton 15/Oct/05 2nd
with geoff barker
Hidden 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
thompson1000 18/Sep/05 -
Sparky!!!3 15/Aug/05 2nd
with alex more
featuresforfeet ?/Aug/05 Lead
Darren Cook ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

great is you like climbing glass or come from Avon, Cheader way :-)

with Dodge
Richard Horn ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
JDSwain ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Ben Candlin
chrissloan84 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Stu
Darrell Read 05/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/02 Lead
MontyH 30/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Milton
andybenham ??/2001 -
EllieWoods 06/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Charlie
MontyH 02/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Andy Young
Hidden 19/Mar/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/99 2nd
Rob Oram 06/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with John Hardy
Gareth 10/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Andrew
migs493 24/Mar/99 Lead O/S

With a group

cem 22/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Jerry Boyd
andyfeds 04/Aug/98 Lead O/S

Direct finish

with Andy C
FrankW ??/1998 -
Rampikino 08/Sep/96 2nd
The Reaper 05/Aug/95 Lead O/S
r0b 26/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
sdht ??/1993 -
Nigel Coe 16/Apr/90 -
Hidden 16/Apr/90 -
kp64zl ?/Dec/89 Lead
with Andy B
MoWalker3 18/Sep/88 -
GuyC 14/Aug/88 Lead O/S

With Al W

with Steve B
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