Rockfax Description
Take an easy line up the wall on the far side of the bay. The route is well protected and has some fine positions. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Swanage Green Spots, SPA Training Minimum Requirement.

Jeremy Wilton 14/Sep 2nd O/S
with Mark Bathe
elclarko 09/Sep 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep 2nd O/S
joe.wahab 07/Sep Lead rpt

Warm up.

with Jess Stanier, Zack Coleman
Hidden 28/Aug Lead
Hidden 25/Aug Lead
amontgomery1 13/Aug Lead rpt
takaczapka 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Ned
SuperLee1985 30/Jul Lead O/S

Struggled finding the right line for this as direct seemed a bit blank and didn't look like a VD. Trended left in the end, but some bits still felt a bit blank.

joe.wahab 25/Jul Lead rpt

Lovely day out in the sun! Nice route. I had forgotten how beautiful it was down at cattle troughs in the sun!!

with mum, Dad
Hidden 05/Jul Lead
Hidden 01/Jul Lead rpt
Stroppy 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Cathy
TeenageMutantClimbingTurtle 17/Jun 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 17/Jun Lead
Hidden 13/Jun Lead O/S
Beach 12/Jun Lead

Looking at leading with john. Gearing place for his lead

with John good
Craig Hiscock 15/Apr Solo rpt
with James
ethanstoddart 15/Apr -
MrJoshua 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Ethan Stoddart
fharnish13 11/Apr Lead O/S
caron gaisford 08/Apr TR
with Jezz
JezzaCat 08/Apr 2nd rpt
with Sue, Caron
Gareth 19/Mar Lead rpt
with Chris
pheotleyr 11/Mar Solo O/S
SimonDunn 19/Feb 2nd

Think we were off route, too far right

davehope 19/Feb 2nd

All over the place. No idea what the line was intended as.

Steve Webster 19/Feb Lead rpt
Craig Hiscock 03/Dec/16 Lead
with James, Ivan
Hidden 03/Dec/16 2nd O/S
CraigPerl 05/Nov/16 Lead β

Really shit gear for the first half of the climb, gets a bit better eventually. Bit scary for a Vdiff.

with Tan Pennell
Rwillson88 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Difficult to route find, sparse gear but very easy climbing. Would happily solo.

with RHI
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
CraigPerl 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead
Cyborg 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Anthony Skilton
Norman_P_W 07/Aug/16 Lead
with Anita
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Harry Hall 16/Jul/16 -
Craig Hiscock 09/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
ssutton 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Adam
matt_batchelor 15/May/16 Lead
with Andrew
andrew.tyrrell 15/May/16 2nd O/S
with Matt
AlexHewitt90 30/Apr/16 2nd rpt
funkyvin1 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Followed the topo line of Dorset Rockfax. Steep start up middle of wall on good holds and ok gear. Climbing interest over by half height.

philhayes 30/Apr/16 2nd
AlexHewitt90 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
JGriffiths 17/Apr/16 Lead
AlexHewitt90 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Felicityleigh-hudson 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
philhayes 17/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead
riff156 09/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Jo Smith
tsyrett 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
bmda106 ??/2016 Solo
Alex Hallam 24/Oct/15 Lead rpt
DeanJPepper 03/Oct/15 2nd
Juan S 20/Sep/15 Lead
with Wei
Philoosh 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
joe.wahab 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for VDiff. Not too good.

TomWeeks 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jaimer 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Andr? Knirch
GDS 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with mike p
MontyH 18/Jul/15 2nd
with pete frost
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
powelli 20/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead
James_L88 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Powell
Buccaneerbilly 06/Jun/15 Lead

Did this with Chris seconding. The comments at the top were centred around the fact that I had managed to use a rather large amount of gear on a short route, 11 pieces of pro and even used his size 1/2 nut which had not seen the light of day for some time!

with Chris Lodge
ADAMSTUBS ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
WillGraham1 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/15 Lead O/S
cas smerdon 14/Apr/15 2nd
with Mark S
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Pike 12/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Jen Booys, Sarah Sams
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s. Also lead and Soledad it around that time.

with unknown
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
daviesp2 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Pete GMC
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
mdjb 27/Sep/14 -
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Trace 06/Sep/14 Lead
CurlyStevo 31/Aug/14 Lead

Think I did this climb! I went up the groove / crack / slim corner line which starts above the void. I didn't have the guide book with me. Was very pleasent but with very sparce gear. Felt about Vdiff.

with louise_london_climber
Hidden 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mattprince 05/Jul/14 Lead
with Jethro Hempworth
montymoo 02/Jul/14 Solo
pdamann 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with M Fielker
Gareth 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Mark
montymoo 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Alex Hallam 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
lazza ?/Jun/14 2nd
with chris
riff156 26/May/14 2nd rpt
with Jo Smith
Aidanrobinson1995 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
funkyvin1 12/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd
riff156 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Hannahc
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
Pixie-Andy 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good route, kept safe and easy with a wandering left traverse. Straight up for slightly more risk!

Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
andyclimber 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead β
Skullfire 03/Aug/13 2nd β
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Pulsatingstar 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
ChrisHarris1981 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Easy VDiff, not that interesting. Chimney and Chockney harder but better.

Debs 25/May/13 Lead
with Karl
UnkArl 25/May/13 2nd β
with Debbie
Rupey 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with alan
katemurphy_@hotmail 21/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
lukerathmell ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Rachel Bennett
alaster tonge 31/Mar/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 10/Dec/12 Lead
debbie roberts 03/Dec/12 Lead
Marti999 03/Dec/12 2nd O/S

There are a few lines on this wall all around the same grade. which is the correct line is difficult to tell.

with Debbie
cas smerdon 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Mark S
Chris Redding 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Was a bit too far to the left due to a misread of the guidebook

with Tom Redding
shelagh23 16/Aug/12 Lead
MariaT 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Pretty sure we were off-route as felt more HS than VD. If so, then is this an existing route?

David Walker 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Maria
Gareth 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
JezzaCat ?/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Shelagh
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
MontyH 28/Jul/12 Lead
with Paul Milton
L.miura 15/Jul/12 2nd
with Asha Osbon
Jensoir 30/Jun/12 TR O/S
rustyfishhook 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S

MEH! Easy solo if anything. Like a giant set of garden steps.

Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead
Trippinjester 30/Jun/12 TR O/S
with Jennie Fowler, Jamie Knight
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
daviesp2 27/Jun/12 Lead

Climbed in the Fog. This was as brave as I got as it was all a bit slippy.

with David Adamson
rustyfishhook 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Ment to lead this, but managed to climb between this route and Pulpit route. Nice exposed start then followed a nice crack. Route not in guidebook so named the route myself. Called it the Money shot! Pissed with rain half way up, was a real good adventure. Polly followed up on extremely wet rock. CONGRATULATIONS!

ElBarto 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Climbed this route further to the right this time as there seemed to be more gear there and my second wanted to lead it after seconding.

ElBarto 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Wildstyle 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead
Piers Harley 18/May/12 2nd

In the wet!

with Jeremy Windsor
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
Hidden 07/May/12 Lead
Big Rik 07/May/12 2nd O/S
joshchalke 06/May/12 Lead rpt

sure were,nt on right route

Michael-H ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Marta
ElvisLeg 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

With beginner.

Selina 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/11 Lead O/S
MDR61 26/Sep/11 Lead rpt
joshchalke 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Alpinehero 28/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd
Steve Webster 24/Jul/11 2nd
Adrian Daniels 24/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
will_benfold 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Miles
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Headjamm 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Geoffers
Geoffers 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren
mattshort 29/May/11 2nd
with Phil Porter
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead O/S
Philippa Arding 18/May/11 2nd
with jo nosworthy
naomileaton 09/May/11 Lead

First lead!:)

Hidden 04/May/11 2nd
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead O/S
JezzaCat ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Stella
Stella Baylis ?/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Rhys Jones 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with bonita
risby 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Big Lee 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Tricky move in the middle for a VDiff. Maybe we were slightly off line.

with Daniel
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Jayne Jackson 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Charlie Evans 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Rudkin, Jayne Jackson
JD19081986 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Helen Rudkin, Charlie Evans
lostinmidlands 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with nil4e
ElvisLeg 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Luke Dodington
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Amy Kilpin 19/Mar/11 2nd
risby 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Actually, this was a first ascent of a new route I'd call "Walk in the park" if I could be bothered to write it up. It was west of Fallen Block Climb starting up an obvious vertical crack. Was gonna go up Isis but waves were washing over ledge so this was safest exit.

Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd
cas smerdon 05/Mar/11 Lead
with Mark S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
blakey ??/2011 Lead
bradholmes 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
ciderspider 27/Sep/10 2nd
MDR61 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Monkey_Alan 15/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Nexonen 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S
jezb1 02/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd dog
John Foster 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff
ElBarto 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Green
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jimwight2010 ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Kermi 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Zygoticgema 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with KarlH
KarlH 24/Apr/10 Lead

Not sure i would agree with the guidebook description of good protection. I had about a 7m section with no pro. It was easy climbing over this section but a little unnerving.

with Gemma
Ken Taylor ??/2010 Solo
canis cibo 26/Sep/09 2nd rpt
tobydunford 19/Sep/09 2nd β
with Sarah Wysling
JimBee ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jane Taylor
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
allanfarrell 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Harding
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead
daviesp2 18/Jun/09 2nd
katiep 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Tom Downes 16/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Ceridwen 05/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Nozzer 30/May/09 Lead O/S
tom_holdsworth 10/May/09 Lead
with Mike Kennedy
cbonner 09/May/09 Lead O/S
davidnoke ?/May/09 2nd O/S
igneouscarl 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Stahl
roc n run 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

I do like Swanage in the sun

with H
Bobby Pearson 18/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah Pearson
LardClimber 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
alpease 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with James Dynes & Nic Brown
Monkey_Alan 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 14/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Alan B
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead
Dave Marshall 22/Feb/09 2nd
with Richard Keast
Disco ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
daviesp2 12/Oct/08 2nd
chriswitts1 12/Oct/08 Lead rpt

James first ever climb outside, and third ever session of rock climbing. Had Neil C there as a demo man which was useful. Climbed the route, trailing a second full rope which was already tied onto James. Brought him up second as a top rope, and Neil Belayed me, and cleaned the route. Decent climb, although didn't feel too at home on the rock!

with James Johnson
gav 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Tim
uncontrollable 11/Oct/08 Solo O/S

roped solo

Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead
jocevans 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S

had some moments but a good climb

with Mark
tracyclimber ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hamish777 ?/Jun/08 2nd
with tracy
daviesp2 18/May/08 Lead
canis cibo 18/May/08 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes, John Inkpen
SGD 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/08 2nd O/S
aturner99 05/Apr/08 Lead
with P Manuel
Harry Thorpe 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Second lead

with Sarah Rixham
jamie ward 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Leighton Hicks
Hidden 02/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/08 Lead
MontyH 24/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with lee
flatcap 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Another slow start whilst I found protection. After that a nice climb, with a long run out to the path (and some stakes).

with Colin
colinw 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Rich
chriswitts1 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S

No major dramas, but a bit light on pro.

with Dan Caldwell
Chris the Tall 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Yet again we weren't where we thought we were !

with Charles C
scoops 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Geoff
jifwally ?/Sep/07 -
with scoops
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead
Bobby Pearson 01/Jul/07 2nd
with Chris Nix
steve2006 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with david moore (age 10)
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
homing-penguin 14/Apr/07 Lead
Jonny M 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
AlexD 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sally
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead
JWB 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
prof_vague 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Paul
deadlock 07/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Nick Kennedy, Stu Hart, Raquel Ardeo
winter_burn 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with jake
flyboy86 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
kendogcatchy ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
monita ?/Apr/07 TR O/S
with prof vague
kendogcatchy ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
flyboy86 ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Nick (kendogcatchy)
Kit Gillibrand ?/Mar/07 2nd
with Roly Chuter
Tom Gadsden ?/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Roly
Will Homoky 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Doug McNeall
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
MontyH 18/Nov/06 Lead rpt
with Mandy hobbs
Stick 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with rosa
Wilbur 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

First lead at Swanage - not well protected at all - gear count was 2 x no 1 nuts, a 1 friend and a small swedge (!!!!) for the first 40 feet or so. Nice!

with Caine
viking ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with wilbur
Seb31 17/Sep/06 AltLd
with Michal
daviesp2 10/Sep/06 Lead
JDSwain 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Candlin
broc 10/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with John
stuntsbyjon ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Ian_gozer 26/Aug/06 Solo β
Ian_gozer 13/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Greg
Ed Babs ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Mark
lazza ?/Apr/06 Lead
with Gareth
Hidden 25/Dec/05 2nd O/S
colin milton 15/Oct/05 Solo
trevor macalonan 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
tobydunford 28/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Sparky!!!3 17/Aug/05 2nd
with alex more
Paul Leader 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S
sixties 31/May/05 Lead
with hrd
chris murnin 17/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/05 Lead O/S
chris murnin 22/Feb/05 Lead
chrissloan84 ??/2005 Solo O/S
lazza ?/May/04 Lead
with Gareth
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
leonjones ??/2004 Lead
with Phil Barley
FrankW 21/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Alex F
Hidden 27/May/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
sam coward ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Helen
Peter Swift ??/2003 Lead rpt
with tina
MontyH 18/Aug/02 Solo rpt
MontyH 09/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Young
James Moyle 01/Jun/01 2nd
FrankW 13/Jan/01 2nd rpt
with Rob K
andybenham ??/2001 -
Peter Swift ??/2001 2nd
with Rebeun
EllieWoods 06/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Hidden 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
FrankW 04/Mar/00 Lead rpt
with Laura
Hidden 07/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/99 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Bobby G
Rob Oram 06/Jun/99 2nd rpt

Repeat ascent

with John Hardy
Gareth 10/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Hannah
FrankW 28/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Laura
Rob Oram 01/Aug/98 2nd O/S
with Tom Asbridge
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead
Bob M 13/Apr/97 -
with Chris Bristow
r0b 03/May/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
timreynolds 26/May/91 2nd
with Jason King
FrankW ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Pat H
MoWalker3 16/Jul/88 -
bazzag ??/1986 -
with rob
pauldrew ??/1984 2nd

First ever climbs, summer 1984 with ventures

Nigel Coe 27/Jun/81 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/77 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1977 Lead
with Jackie Coe
Martin Bennett 28/Mar/72 -
with Geoff Baker
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High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set