18m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent pitch. Climb onto a huge block just right of Pearly Gate, then head up and follow a groove just left of the half-height overhang. © Rockfax

FA. H.Evans, P.Deketeleare 16.2.69 16/Feb/1969

Feedback

UserDateNotes
drcorbasisgod 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Felt a bit tricky and exposed since this weekend was my first time outside since October! Think I may have missed some of the gear/holds referred to above... I went slightly right of the groove to more accommodating territory.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt a bit tricky and exposed since this weekend was my first time outside since October! Think I may have missed some of the gear/holds referred to above... I went slightly right of the groove to more accommodating territory.
Richard Horn 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 lead. Have to confess I was expecting something a little bit harder - maybe I went the wrong way, the line seems to disappear a bit when you reach the top of the groove - I headed more or less straight up over the blocks to finish. Despite above comments a very worthwhile and quite technical route, probably the best I have done at Cattle Troughs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 lead. Have to confess I was expecting something a little bit harder - maybe I went the wrong way, the line seems to disappear a bit when you reach the top of the groove - I headed more or less straight up over the blocks to finish. Despite above comments a very worthwhile and quite technical route, probably the best I have done at Cattle Troughs.
bobn 4 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable route. I think I developed tunnel vision because I found very little gear at and after the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable route. I think I developed tunnel vision because I found very little gear at and after the crux.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 9 Jun 2nd
jopayne1988 14 Apr 2nd dog
NeilHowarth 14 Apr Lead O/S Finished the climb after Jo's lead. Led on pre-placed gear until just before the crux moves
Finished the climb after Jo's lead. Led on pre-placed gear until just before the crux moves
ssutton 13 Apr Lead O/S
with Edward
with Edward
cem 7 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Louise Bow 8 Sep, 2018 2nd dog
lieraza 8 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Lovely! Should try to lead this next time.
with Sarju
Lovely! Should try to lead this next time.
with Sarju
Half Pint Lizz 8 Sep, 2018 2nd dog Great fun!
Great fun!
Bruise Apprentice 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Really nice, technical climbing.
Really nice, technical climbing.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
imogen.fish 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jack (Vice Versa)
with Jack (Vice Versa)
katiep 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S Really nice route
Really nice route
slowmotion 20 May, 2018 2nd
with katiep
with katiep
khalidq 19 May, 2018 2nd dog Stopped to remove gear.
with Suzy Howat, David Barlow
Stopped to remove gear.
with Suzy Howat, David Barlow
loic.menzies 23 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Si
with Si
pguilloux 20 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
with Sachi
with Sachi
Lizlet13 18 Aug, 2017 Lead Dithered getting into the groove...mostly gert lush though
with PG
Dithered getting into the groove...mostly gert lush though
with PG
overbeyond 14 Aug, 2017 2nd β
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
TomOxenham 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Had an absolute mare by dropping my wires onto a rock below which the sea then washed onto lower rocks... Luckily someone retrieved them for me but it made the rest of the climb scary!
with James Andres
Had an absolute mare by dropping my wires onto a rock below which the sea then washed onto lower rocks... Luckily someone retrieved them for me but it made the rest of the climb scary!
with James Andres
nige pacer 16 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Simon Dale
with Simon Dale
Oliver Smaje 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Beth
with Beth
pheotleyr 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Crux was slightly damp, however two rusty in-situ nuts helped. Removed both on abseil afterwards.
with Jana
Crux was slightly damp, however two rusty in-situ nuts helped. Removed both on abseil afterwards.
with Jana
Sophie Nunn 9 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
with Floris, Neilaw
with Floris, Neilaw
Neilaw 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Wine and climb 8 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with truan
with truan
el_monty 23 May, 2016 2nd β
with Seb Lee
with Seb Lee
mlcumberlidge 17 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with JulianB
with JulianB
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 Lead
Pero 19 Sep, 2015 2nd
cem 19 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with Pero
with Pero
jfms 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S I found this nice and straightforward for the grade
I found this nice and straightforward for the grade
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 2nd
Hidden 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
RKirke 13 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Okecroak 30 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with I Butler
with I Butler
WillGraham1 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
KittyKat 11 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with Will Benfold
with Will Benfold
will_benfold 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Pleasantly sustained, but the gear is all there.
Pleasantly sustained, but the gear is all there.
Dan0Me 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
with Sophie C
tonevert 22 Mar, 2015 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
cheeky 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
mark4344 3 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Matt Payne
with Matt Payne
KRB 22 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Good climbing. Finished on this one after taking Ollie up a few VSs on this scorching morning. Jumped in the sea straight after to cool off.
with Oliver Bridges
Good climbing. Finished on this one after taking Ollie up a few VSs on this scorching morning. Jumped in the sea straight after to cool off.
with Oliver Bridges
petegruf 12 Jul, 2014 2nd
with cem
with cem
cem 12 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Not the quickest of ascents. Last route of the day, I was knackered and the rock was very greasy/soapy: I don't think I've ever chalked up so much.
Not the quickest of ascents. Last route of the day, I was knackered and the rock was very greasy/soapy: I don't think I've ever chalked up so much.
Monkey_Alan 29 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
with DAJ Johnson, uncontrollable
with DAJ Johnson, uncontrollable
uncontrollable 29 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
wild_nomad 15 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Great route with sustained difficulty, but nothing desperate and no real crux. Good gear. Good bet for a first E1 lead.
with Paul Day
Great route with sustained difficulty, but nothing desperate and no real crux. Good gear. Good bet for a first E1 lead.
with Paul Day
Andre Clarke 10 Aug, 2013 TR O/S Sparsely protected so elected to go for top rope
Sparsely protected so elected to go for top rope
andrzej kierzek 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 1 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Phil
with Phil
tombushell 26 May, 2013 2nd
with Ed Hastrop
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
givemetea 23 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with Ali Taylor
with Ali Taylor
LucaC 23 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
ben.richards 23 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Small loose block 2/3rds height on the right of the groove - perfect for putting nuts behind but not so perfect for falling onto (I'd imagine). Took the nut out and gunned it to the nice jugs above. Other than that, it was very nice climbing on adequate holds all the way.
with LucaC
Small loose block 2/3rds height on the right of the groove - perfect for putting nuts behind but not so perfect for falling onto (I'd imagine). Took the nut out and gunned it to the nice jugs above. Other than that, it was very nice climbing on adequate holds all the way.
with LucaC
maffujones 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with David Fisher
with David Fisher
LucaC 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Good gear when needed.
Good gear when needed.
theocelano 23 Jun, 2012 2nd
Dave Mahon 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S A great route. steep but with good gear, mainly nuts.
with Brian Mead
A great route. steep but with good gear, mainly nuts.
with Brian Mead
Mr Tickle 11 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Nice route with nice moves through the crux, nice to be back at the steepness of Swanage.
Nice route with nice moves through the crux, nice to be back at the steepness of Swanage.
Alex Mason 11 Apr, 2012 2nd β Cool Aesthetic route. Reminds me of a mini-Wall of the Worlds.
Cool Aesthetic route. Reminds me of a mini-Wall of the Worlds.
Hidden ?Apr, 2012 2nd
Amy Kilpin 6 Nov, 2011 2nd
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt
steveb2006 3 Sep, 2011 Lead Ann Blandford also seconds
Ann Blandford also seconds
risby 14 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Nice route, good gear throghout.
with risby
Nice route, good gear throghout.
with risby
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with stef mesch
with stef mesch
dan gibson 20 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 20 May, 2011 Lead First E1 at Swanage! Lovely moves and good pro.
First E1 at Swanage! Lovely moves and good pro.
Hidden 7 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
London Luke ?May, 2011 Lead
colkurtz 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 Lead
Rhys Jones 16 Apr, 2011 Lead
with bonita
with bonita
garywong 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with kleinej
with kleinej
kleinej 24 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Ceridwen 7 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
with Andy
with Andy
davewing 6 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with Lee
with Lee
clipskipper 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dave Wing
with Dave Wing
Hidden 22 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
KateBolton 19 May, 2010 2nd dog A hell of a climb. Started well but the crux had two very slippery finger holds which I fell off, twice. Then couldn't get a piece of gear out and dropped the nut key. Ended up using everything to get up, even my chin. Pretty damn desperate!
with Tboeckx
A hell of a climb. Started well but the crux had two very slippery finger holds which I fell off, twice. Then couldn't get a piece of gear out and dropped the nut key. Ended up using everything to get up, even my chin. Pretty damn desperate!
with Tboeckx
The Ivanator 7 Apr, 2010 2nd
Carly 7 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
with Richard
with Richard
davenev 10 Sep, 2009 TR O/S
with solo
with solo
Different Steve 31 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
MarkRyder 27 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with lee91
with lee91
The Ivanator 25 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S Result! My first E1.
Result! My first E1.
Perryman 25 Jun, 2009 Lead
Trisha Murphy 16 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
d_meacher 16 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 2nd rpt
lyneux 9 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
with Chris Bull
dannymoo99 2 May, 2009 2nd
with Jez Brown
with Jez Brown
jezb1 2 May, 2009 Lead O/S Really liked the route. My first clean onsight E1, bit soft in the grade?
Really liked the route. My first clean onsight E1, bit soft in the grade?
Ceridwen 25 Apr, 2009 Lead dog
Ceridwen 23 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Shona H 20 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Charlie Moore
with Charlie Moore
Dan_Carroll 13 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Soft for the grade.
with Rebecca Holland
Soft for the grade.
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 13 Apr, 2009 2nd dog
LiLaMont 29 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
tobydunford 29 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?Mar, 2009 -
trev_f 22 Aug, 2008 2nd β
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with trev_f
with trev_f
Matt Shepherd 10 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ?Aug, 2008 2nd O/S Nice but seemed quite short.
with Carl
Nice but seemed quite short.
with Carl
jamie ward 29 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S Good route but very awkward for me to get gear out and Marcus to place! Climb the steep groove strenously, 2 in situ wires above groove.
with Marcus Harvey
Good route but very awkward for me to get gear out and Marcus to place! Climb the steep groove strenously, 2 in situ wires above groove.
with Marcus Harvey
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
riddle 31 May, 2008 Lead O/S Fab route, The crux is cheeky, great climbing.
with miku979
Fab route, The crux is cheeky, great climbing.
with miku979
ASchwirtz 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher
with Mark Beecher
SGD 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2008 2nd β
Marq 3 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Andy Livingstone
with Andy Livingstone
Tobes ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Kirill 1 Nov, 2007 2nd
with cem
with cem
cem 1 Nov, 2007 Lead rpt
with Kirill
with Kirill
Theeni ?Oct, 2007 2nd O/S Just!
Just!
Graham Westbrook ?Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
MontyH 25 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Brian and Paul
with Brian and Paul
brian watson 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with MontyH, Paul Milton
with MontyH, Paul Milton
Tom Livingstone ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
duncan 7 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Mun
with Mun
kenneM ?Jul, 2007 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
with Booby Hewitt
feeko 28 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
JDSwain 25 Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Alex Balch
with Alex Balch
Hidden 30 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 ?Mar, 2006 2nd
Stone Muppet ??, 2006 -
Mark Stevenson 11 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Tess
with Tess
Owen W-G 30 Oct, 2004 Lead O/S My first extreme on mainland Britain. Led by skin of teeth.
with Dan & Tim
My first extreme on mainland Britain. Led by skin of teeth.
with Dan & Tim
andybuckley 12 Sep, 2004 2nd Felt desperate!
Felt desperate!
cem 19 Jun, 2004 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Richard Horn ?Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2004 -
charlesmfrench 13 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
Hidden ?Apr, 2000 2nd
CMacD ??, 2000 -
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?May, 1990 Lead
with steve kerr
with steve kerr
kylo-342 ?May, 1990 2nd
with Dave
with Dave
MoWalker3 18 Sep, 1988 TR
Nigel Coe 31 Oct, 1981 Lead
with Jerry Hawley
with Jerry Hawley
Nigel Coe 2 Sep, 1979 2nd
with Frank Farrell
with Frank Farrell
Chris Terrey ?Jun, 1978 Lead
with Roger Wilson
with Roger Wilson
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set