Rockfax Description
An excellent pitch. Climb onto a huge block just right of Pearly Gate, then head up and follow a groove just left of the half-height overhang. © Rockfax

FA. H.Evans, P.Deketeleare 16.2.69 16/Feb/1969

loic.menzies 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Si
pguilloux 20/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with Sachi
Lizlet13 18/Aug/17 Lead

Dithered getting into the groove...mostly gert lush though

with PG
overbeyond 14/Aug/17 2nd β
Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S
TomOxenham 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Had an absolute mare by dropping my wires onto a rock below which the sea then washed onto lower rocks... Luckily someone retrieved them for me but it made the rest of the climb scary!

with James Andres
nige pacer 16/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Simon Dale
Oliver Smaje 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Beth
pheotleyr 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Crux was slightly damp, however two rusty in-situ nuts helped. Removed both on abseil afterwards.

with Jana
Sophie Nunn 09/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Floris, Neil W
Neilaw 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wine and climb 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with truan
el_monty 23/May/16 2nd β
with Seb Lee
mlcumberlidge 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead
Pero 19/Sep/15 2nd
cem 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
jfms 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

I found this nice and straightforward for the grade

Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd
Alex the Alex 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lovely little route. Very friendly by Swanage standards.

with Rog
RKirke 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Okecroak 30/May/15 2nd O/S
with I Butler
WillGraham1 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
KittyKat 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Will Benfold
will_benfold 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pleasantly sustained, but the gear is all there.

Dan0Me 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
tonevert 22/Mar/15 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
cheeky 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andreas
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mark4344 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Matt Payne
KRB 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing. Finished on this one after taking Ollie up a few VSs on this scorching morning. Jumped in the sea straight after to cool off.

with Oliver Bridges
petegruf 12/Jul/14 2nd
cem 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Not the quickest of ascents. Last route of the day, I was knackered and the rock was very greasy/soapy: I don't think I've ever chalked up so much.

Monkey_Alan 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with DAJ Johnson, Frodo Stickel
uncontrollable 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Daj
wild_nomad 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route with sustained difficulty, but nothing desperate and no real crux. Good gear. Good bet for a first E1 lead.

with Paul Day
Andre Clarke 10/Aug/13 TR O/S

Sparsely protected so elected to go for top rope

andrzej kierzek 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tara
Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Phil
tombushell 26/May/13 2nd
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
givemetea 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ali Taylor
LJC 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
ben.richards 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Small loose block 2/3rds height on the right of the groove - perfect for putting nuts behind but not so perfect for falling onto (I'd imagine). Took the nut out and gunned it to the nice jugs above. Other than that, it was very nice climbing on adequate holds all the way.

maffujones 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with David Fisher
LJC 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good gear when needed.

with Theo
theocelano 23/Jun/12 2nd
Dave Mahon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A great route. steep but with good gear, mainly nuts.

with Brian Mead
Mr Tickle 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Nice route with nice moves through the crux, nice to be back at the steepness of Swanage.

Alex Mason 11/Apr/12 2nd β

Cool Aesthetic route. Reminds me of a mini-Wall of the Worlds.

Hidden ?/Apr/12 2nd
Amy Kilpin 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead
risby 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, good gear throghout.

Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stef mesch
dan gibson 20/May/11 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 20/May/11 Lead

First E1 at Swanage! Lovely moves and good pro.

Hidden 07/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
London Luke ?/May/11 Lead
colkurtz 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
Rhys Jones 16/Apr/11 Lead
with bonita
garywong 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
kleinej 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Gary
Ceridwen 07/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
davewing 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Lee
clipskipper 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Wing
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
KateBolton 19/May/10 2nd dog

A hell of a climb. Started well but the crux had two very slippery finger holds which I fell off, twice. Then couldn't get a piece of gear out and dropped the nut key. Ended up using everything to get up, even my chin. Pretty damn desperate!

The Ivanator 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Stewart
Carly 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Richard
davenev 10/Sep/09 TR O/S
with solo
Different Steve 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
MarkRyder 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
The Ivanator 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Result! My first E1.

with Sean
Perryman 25/Jun/09 Lead
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
d_meacher 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
lyneux 09/May/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
dannymoo99 02/May/09 2nd
with Jez Brown
jezb1 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Really liked the route. My first clean onsight E1, bit soft in the grade?

Ceridwen 25/Apr/09 Lead dog
Ceridwen 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Shona H 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie Moore
Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Soft for the grade.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
LiLaMont 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tobydunford 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/09 -
trev_f 22/Aug/08 2nd β
with Ed
Ed Babs 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Trevor
Matt Shepherd 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Nice but seemed quite short.

with Carl
jamie ward 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Good route but very awkward for me to get gear out and Marcus to place! Climb the steep groove strenously, 2 in situ wires above groove.

with Marcus Harvey
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
riddle 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Fab route, The crux is cheeky, great climbing.

with Yasmina
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher
SGD 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd β
Marq 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Livingstone
Tobes ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
Kirill 01/Nov/07 2nd
cem 01/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Theeni ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S


Graham Westbrook ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 25/Aug/07 2nd
with Brian and Paul
brian watson 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobbs, Paul Milton
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
duncan 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
JDSwain 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Alex Balch
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Mark Stevenson 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tess
Owen W-G 30/Oct/04 Lead O/S

My first extreme on mainland Britain. Led by skin of teeth.

with Dan & Tim
cem 19/Jun/04 2nd
Richard Horn ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 -
charlesmfrench 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
Hidden ?/Apr/00 2nd
CMacD ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/May/90 Lead
with steve kerr
kp64zl ?/May/90 2nd
with Dave
MoWalker3 18/Sep/88 TR
Nigel Coe 31/Oct/81 Lead
with Jerry Hawley
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 2nd
with Frank Farrell
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
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