Rockfax Description
A full body workout with reasonable gear. Start easily as for Theory of Everything, then take the big cracks to the right up the steep wall (thread) pulling over a bulge to a ledge. An easy groove leads to the top. Belay on a pre-placed rope. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 08/Aug/1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mark Warnett | 9 Jun |
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βeta: Its tricky finding the line to put a rope down to the ledge for the horrendously loose top. The Rockfax topo is of limited use. We abseiled off a stake on the left hand side of the amphitheatre (looking out). There are then 2 further stakes slightly hidden along the cliff top, walking left (looking out) from the abseil stake referred above. We used the second one of those (i.e. the third stake) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Its tricky finding the line to put a rope down to the ledge for the horrendously loose top. The Rockfax topo is of limited use. We abseiled off a stake on the left hand side of the amphitheatre (looking out). There are then 2 further stakes slightly hidden along the cliff top, walking left (looking out) from the abseil stake referred above. We used the second one of those (i.e. the third stake) |
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Climber_Bill | 8 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Wow! Full body work out I'll say! There is resonable gear, provided you can hang around and place it. The thread is still OK (06 June 2007) but place wires in the crack next to it. Pulling over the bulge on to the ledge is tricky when pumped. A belay rope is a very good idea!! I didn't have one and had to tip toe up near vertical mud! Awesome route! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wow! Full body work out I'll say! There is resonable gear, provided you can hang around and place it. The thread is still OK (06 June 2007) but place wires in the crack next to it. Pulling over the bulge on to the ledge is tricky when pumped. A belay rope is a very good idea!! I didn't have one and had to tip toe up near vertical mud! Awesome route! |
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matt perks | 13 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Having seconded this, it's a good route, well-protected provided the thread is in good nick (which it was - Dec. 2004). The grade seems fair - not too desperate technically, but very steep and pumpy, and it doesn't let up until you're on the ledge. A belay rope is a good idea; this is fine if it's on the flat ledge you can see from the grass slope at the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Having seconded this, it's a good route, well-protected provided the thread is in good nick (which it was - Dec. 2004). The grade seems fair - not too desperate technically, but very steep and pumpy, and it doesn't let up until you're on the ledge. A belay rope is a good idea; this is fine if it's on the flat ledge you can see from the grass slope at the top. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Hedbury)