50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This popular but serious undertaking delves into the deep zawn at the western limits of The Promenade. Calm seas are essential for the first pitch - if it is remotely rough then keep away.
1) A1, 15m. Drop down and follow the side wall of the zawn just above the water, pulling on fixed threads and nuts to gain a rock bridge at the back of the zawn.
2) 4b , 15m. Climb the dark chimney above on good holds, until you are spat out of the blow hole, belay immediately. Lots of slings for threads needed.
3) 4b , 20m. Traverse awkwardly right to the arete, where a ledge leads right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Scott Titt, D.Gumn, R.J.Crewe 24/Apr/1976

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, HVS Adventures, Through Routes!, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Swanage, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, SW Climbs - Swanage, Type 2 Fun, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, South West Classic VS's

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ian799 19 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Weird to pull on slings, the last two at the rock bridge were fun, especially when they went their separate ways! Pity about the last pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route. Weird to pull on slings, the last two at the rock bridge were fun, especially when they went their separate ways! Pity about the last pitch.
Ewan 28 Jul, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent fun ! A1- is about right for the first pitch, all the threads are quite small (narrow tape or rope around 5mm)...might be worth taking a few with you to leave behind. The second pitch is a jug fest, as Rob says, take loads of slings for threads. Overall really entertaining, the climbing is straight forward, but earns VS as it is very committing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent fun ! A1- is about right for the first pitch, all the threads are quite small (narrow tape or rope around 5mm)...might be worth taking a few with you to leave behind. The second pitch is a jug fest, as Rob says, take loads of slings for threads. Overall really entertaining, the climbing is straight forward, but earns VS as it is very committing
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Tom Draude 19 May AltLd A big all day adventure, Aid climb wasn't to bad after getting into the swing of it. I'll have no idea how Chris held his nerve after one of the bits of Tat broke on him!
A big all day adventure, Aid climb wasn't to bad after getting into the swing of it. I'll have no idea how Chris held his nerve after one of the bits of Tat broke on him!
chris cockbain 19 May AltLd O/S First pitch is madness
First pitch is madness
Harry Martin 2 Sep, 2018 -
annb 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd Definitely Type 2 fun. The threads on the first pitch didn't inspire confidence, but the cave is really beautiful. And for a short person with limited upper-body strength it took a lot of improvisation, lunging and contortions to get to the first belay. From there, it really was fun, but a boat and ladder would have been a more straightforward option for the first pitch.
Definitely Type 2 fun. The threads on the first pitch didn't inspire confidence, but the cave is really beautiful. And for a short person with limited upper-body strength it took a lot of improvisation, lunging and contortions to get to the first belay. From there, it really was fun, but a boat and ladder would have been a more straightforward option for the first pitch.
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd
ciderspider 7 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S first visited this two years ago. As my partner (ciderslider) disappeared into the cave and the swell grew my bottle went and we backed off before I had even started. This became a monkey on my back so we vowed to return under better conditions. Today was that day. And what an epic adventure! Possibly type 2 fun in places (certainly the greasy second pitch) but this was my first time aid climbing and it was a lot of fun! Yep it is committing, but well worth the effort - great lead Reedy.
first visited this two years ago. As my partner (ciderslider) disappeared into the cave and the swell grew my bottle went and we backed off before I had even started. This became a monkey on my back so we vowed to return under better conditions. Today was that day. And what an epic adventure! Possibly type 2 fun in places (certainly the greasy second pitch) but this was my first time aid climbing and it was a lot of fun! Yep it is committing, but well worth the effort - great lead Reedy.
Ciderslider 7 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt What an adventure !!!!!!! I'd previously led P1 only (and reversed it due to conditions). This time conditions were perfect - P1 led and just as strenuous as before. Ian did a great job on his first ever aid pitch (and considering his lack of reach). P2 no pushover, not really being able to see properly and everything being slimy - hardest getting off the belay, but once underway and past the jammed boulder big holds and good threads. Just as I was finishing P2 and pulling out of the hole a pigeon which had been sitting on its nest in the darkness flew into my face !!!! Gull with three checks on nest at entrance to blow hole - had to get around them without any of them tumbling off ledge - last pitch straightforward but no gear and very crumbly - so don't fall off. Total mad adventure - like Avernus on steroids !!!!!!
What an adventure !!!!!!! I'd previously led P1 only (and reversed it due to conditions). This time conditions were perfect - P1 led and just as strenuous as before. Ian did a great job on his first ever aid pitch (and considering his lack of reach). P2 no pushover, not really being able to see properly and everything being slimy - hardest getting off the belay, but once underway and past the jammed boulder big holds and good threads. Just as I was finishing P2 and pulling out of the hole a pigeon which had been sitting on its nest in the darkness flew into my face !!!! Gull with three checks on nest at entrance to blow hole - had to get around them without any of them tumbling off ledge - last pitch straightforward but no gear and very crumbly - so don't fall off. Total mad adventure - like Avernus on steroids !!!!!!
Graham Westbrook 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Some of the threads are looking pretty manky! Gopping 2nd pitch but a great route! Quite strenuous on the aid section!
Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Some of the threads are looking pretty manky! Gopping 2nd pitch but a great route! Quite strenuous on the aid section!
lazza 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd Epic!!! Intimidating and terrifying seconding of pitch one including a fall and a chalk bag dip in the sea. Greasy and very dark chimney lead up what seemed like an endless pitch 2. So relieved to reach the blow hole and the not so friendly seagull. Wow what a route though, one to remember!!
with Gareth
Epic!!! Intimidating and terrifying seconding of pitch one including a fall and a chalk bag dip in the sea. Greasy and very dark chimney lead up what seemed like an endless pitch 2. So relieved to reach the blow hole and the not so friendly seagull. Wow what a route though, one to remember!!
with Gareth
Gareth 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 and 3. Great after work adventure on the longest day of the year
with lazza
P1 and 3. Great after work adventure on the longest day of the year
with lazza
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
superturbo 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Ridiculous route. Leading p1 was a hard intro to aiding but good craic. Mini zawn fun, peak esoterica
Ridiculous route. Leading p1 was a hard intro to aiding but good craic. Mini zawn fun, peak esoterica
Martin Bagshaw 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Weird shit.
Weird shit.
catrin289 ?Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent adventure. Glad I wasn't leading the aid pitch - an interesting intro to aid.
Excellent adventure. Glad I wasn't leading the aid pitch - an interesting intro to aid.
Jane Weir 31 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Adrian Paisey
with Adrian Paisey
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt
David Staples 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
w-watson 6 May, 2016 AltLd
Pok ??, 2016 -
Philoosh 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S A crazy climb. Aiding the first pitch on dodgy tat with the waves hitting below was insane. Loved it.
A crazy climb. Aiding the first pitch on dodgy tat with the waves hitting below was insane. Loved it.
Matt.c.Warner 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Will
with Will
CreepingExcellence. 18 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Awesome little adventure! With no aid climbing experience or ability to speak of I found pitch 1'fairly strenuous mainly getting bodyweight off threads to unclip from them. Leading pitch 2 was brilliant even if all the holds were covered in an interesting mixture of slime, grease and pigeon shit. Easy and slightly anticlimactic final pitch.
Awesome little adventure! With no aid climbing experience or ability to speak of I found pitch 1'fairly strenuous mainly getting bodyweight off threads to unclip from them. Leading pitch 2 was brilliant even if all the holds were covered in an interesting mixture of slime, grease and pigeon shit. Easy and slightly anticlimactic final pitch.
Stanners 18 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Properly prepared this time we set off from bristol psyched to finally tick this. An extremely memorable outing self teaching aid climbing skills on the move. A few freak waves were exciting! Solid effort from Andy speeding up the second pitch with little hesitation . P2 is ridiculously adventurous yet caked in jugs. No idea how the last pitch warrants 4b, its about diff! What an adventure!! 5 stars. Chilli cheese dog well earned.
Properly prepared this time we set off from bristol psyched to finally tick this. An extremely memorable outing self teaching aid climbing skills on the move. A few freak waves were exciting! Solid effort from Andy speeding up the second pitch with little hesitation . P2 is ridiculously adventurous yet caked in jugs. No idea how the last pitch warrants 4b, its about diff! What an adventure!! 5 stars. Chilli cheese dog well earned.
Stanners 3 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf Had a nosey around the start of the traverse totally buzzing yet terrified ! Scary sea cave routes seem to be attracting us! After much contemplation, with it being late in the day and servely dehydrated the decision was made to return to it being the main focus in the future. Hours later the alarm was set for a 5:30am start before we had to shoot off to bristol..alas the teenage student got the better of us and we fell back asleep in our bivvi in the car park! Back SOON BENNY.
Had a nosey around the start of the traverse totally buzzing yet terrified ! Scary sea cave routes seem to be attracting us! After much contemplation, with it being late in the day and servely dehydrated the decision was made to return to it being the main focus in the future. Hours later the alarm was set for a 5:30am start before we had to shoot off to bristol..alas the teenage student got the better of us and we fell back asleep in our bivvi in the car park! Back SOON BENNY.
SamJones974 27 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with Will Watson
with Will Watson
MontyH 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Flipping brilliant!!!
with Brian and Paul
Flipping brilliant!!!
with Brian and Paul
brian watson 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt Always a joy!!
with Paul Milton
Always a joy!!
with Paul Milton
jacobjacob 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2014 2nd dog
Alex Hallam 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S Adventurous, esoteric and exceptional are all words that can be associated with this spectacular horrible route. Not to mention wet, greasy and ornithological. Kit could have probably benefited from etriers and possibly even some upper body strength with a dusting of willpower, however with Rust and Hallams duet the 3 hours spent aiding the route did not pass maladroitly. I will never forget this day. GET ON IT!
Adventurous, esoteric and exceptional are all words that can be associated with this spectacular horrible route. Not to mention wet, greasy and ornithological. Kit could have probably benefited from etriers and possibly even some upper body strength with a dusting of willpower, however with Rust and Hallams duet the 3 hours spent aiding the route did not pass maladroitly. I will never forget this day. GET ON IT!
rustaldo 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S A very memorable 6hrs of climbing. P1 is great fun swinging around on threads until you reach the crux where you actually have to resort to aid. The belay has good acoustics which have been extensively tested. P2 has really cool rock but was very damp and greasy, didn't matter too much though. P3 guarded by a hostile and vocal seagull. If this is the only route you do all day and takes around 5-6 hrs then you're probably climbing with LT RN Kit Perry. A very good adventure!
A very memorable 6hrs of climbing. P1 is great fun swinging around on threads until you reach the crux where you actually have to resort to aid. The belay has good acoustics which have been extensively tested. P2 has really cool rock but was very damp and greasy, didn't matter too much though. P3 guarded by a hostile and vocal seagull. If this is the only route you do all day and takes around 5-6 hrs then you're probably climbing with LT RN Kit Perry. A very good adventure!
will moy 14 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S pretty cool. not sure went the right way on pitch 3.
with paul taylor
pretty cool. not sure went the right way on pitch 3.
with paul taylor
paultaylor 14 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P2, amazeballs, great adventure
Lead P2, amazeballs, great adventure
Luxulyan 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Dan S
with Dan S
Ciderslider 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S P1 only (and in reverse). Wow ! What a fantastic adventure - got soaked on the way in and by the time I got to the belay the sea was really rough ! My mate didn't fancy it at all so I had to reverse the first pitch. Shame I didn't get to do the second pitch but an excellent adventure none the less.
P1 only (and in reverse). Wow ! What a fantastic adventure - got soaked on the way in and by the time I got to the belay the sea was really rough ! My mate didn't fancy it at all so I had to reverse the first pitch. Shame I didn't get to do the second pitch but an excellent adventure none the less.
AlexD 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S hooray properly brilliant! led p1 and 3.
hooray properly brilliant! led p1 and 3.
Hidden 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd
halfwaythere 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch
with tony
Led 2nd pitch
with tony
Sophie Nunn 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden ??, 2013 -
1202alarm 21 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Si Ball
with Si Ball
johang 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S took 1st and 3rd pitches. The whole climb is just fantastic. Crazy, crazy setting. Main point for anyone thinking about this is that the 1st pitch is definitely aid climbing, so use slings for foot-holds, don't just pull on the threads as this increases the difficulty to something akin to F6b+ without footholds :D....
took 1st and 3rd pitches. The whole climb is just fantastic. Crazy, crazy setting. Main point for anyone thinking about this is that the 1st pitch is definitely aid climbing, so use slings for foot-holds, don't just pull on the threads as this increases the difficulty to something akin to F6b+ without footholds :D....
Hidden 26 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Sam Husband 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Took for bloody ever and the climbing itself is fairly uninspiring but it's a great adventure and definitely a 3* climb, like a bigger version of Avernus.
with Stroppy
Took for bloody ever and the climbing itself is fairly uninspiring but it's a great adventure and definitely a 3* climb, like a bigger version of Avernus.
with Stroppy
Stroppy 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3, no concept of aid climbing made P1 much more difficult than it had to be. Took all day; brilliant adventure. Had some very close moments with my partner on the belay ledge.
Led P1 and P3, no concept of aid climbing made P1 much more difficult than it had to be. Took all day; brilliant adventure. Had some very close moments with my partner on the belay ledge.
Helen Gibson ??, 2012 -
Ian JL ??, 2012 -
The Ivanator 2 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S A most excellent adventure. I led P2. Just monkeyed across the aid traverse and didn't faff with foot loops - strenuous but saved loads of time.
A most excellent adventure. I led P2. Just monkeyed across the aid traverse and didn't faff with foot loops - strenuous but saved loads of time.
Ybot Htulk 2 Oct, 2011 AltLd Been drawn to this one for ages and it lived up to expectations
with Ivan
Been drawn to this one for ages and it lived up to expectations
with Ivan
uncontrollable 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt Led pitch 2, Alan led rest. Very wet and greasy, entertaining ...
Led pitch 2, Alan led rest. Very wet and greasy, entertaining ...
Monkey_Alan 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1,3. Good fun aiding into the cave, but very damp up the chimney. Popped out of the blowhole just as the sea fog was receding from the cliffs.
Led P1,3. Good fun aiding into the cave, but very damp up the chimney. Popped out of the blowhole just as the sea fog was receding from the cliffs.
Jim Slater 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Geart stuff, bit of an adventure. First bit of aid climbing for me.
with Trevor Wilson
Geart stuff, bit of an adventure. First bit of aid climbing for me.
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd
colkurtz 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with Robb
with Robb
Theeni ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S As clean as one can climb an aid route. I took P1(aid) and P3 for the glory.
As clean as one can climb an aid route. I took P1(aid) and P3 for the glory.
mattkemp70 ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Henry
with Henry
Danh89 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd Pitch
with LukeyG
Lead 2nd Pitch
with LukeyG
LukeyG ?Aug, 2010 AltLd Led pitch 1 and 3, took about 4 hours, snapped a thread but replaced it.
with Danh89
Led pitch 1 and 3, took about 4 hours, snapped a thread but replaced it.
with Danh89
Hidden 6 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
nick hawkins 6 May, 2010 Lead O/S did the aid pitch using three 120cm slings, found it quite awkward. pitch 2 and 3 very straight forward.
with mike
did the aid pitch using three 120cm slings, found it quite awkward. pitch 2 and 3 very straight forward.
with mike
Hidden 6 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
andy jennings 2 Jan, 2010 - Most of the manky old threads renewed 02.01.10
with Floris
Most of the manky old threads renewed 02.01.10
with Floris
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
northnorthnorth 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S What an experience! Messed up the first (aid) pitch for the second. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are pretty easy for VS technically; I think that the VS is there for the atmosphere and seriousness of the route. Highly recommended!
with Tomo
What an experience! Messed up the first (aid) pitch for the second. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are pretty easy for VS technically; I think that the VS is there for the atmosphere and seriousness of the route. Highly recommended!
with Tomo
SGD 22 May, 2009 AltLd we did paper scissors stone for the lead and I won (lost) so I did P1 and P3....the scariest traverese I've ever done
with Tom Relf
we did paper scissors stone for the lead and I won (lost) so I did P1 and P3....the scariest traverese I've ever done
with Tom Relf
uncontrollable 19 Apr, 2009 Solo O/S roped solo - some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, make sure to take some narrow tape or rope with you.
roped solo - some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, make sure to take some narrow tape or rope with you.
Alex More ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Oct, 2008 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme 23 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Hidden 23 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 30 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Hidden 4 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 4 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Fantastic climb. Really surreal in the zawn.
with heallan
Fantastic climb. Really surreal in the zawn.
with heallan
Hidden 2 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
adrianjenner 1 Jan, 2008 2nd O/S
tobydunford 25 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd pitch - wow! what a route, full of adventure and great banter!
with Harry Martin
Lead 2nd pitch - wow! what a route, full of adventure and great banter!
with Harry Martin
david morse 22 Jul, 2007 AltLd
with rampant and general
with rampant and general
general 22 Jul, 2007 AltLd
with Rampant, David Morse
with Rampant, David Morse
BALD EAGLE 28 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Christian Darr
with Christian Darr
Dorset ??, 2007 2nd Wow what a laugh
with Neil Weymouth
Wow what a laugh
with Neil Weymouth
featuresforfeet 2 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Found the aid pitch really quite hard; http://www.flickr.com/photos/featuresforfeet/tags/benny/
with Fidget
Found the aid pitch really quite hard; http://www.flickr.com/photos/featuresforfeet/tags/benny/
with Fidget
Rob Kennard ??, 2006 -
with James Dunlop
with James Dunlop
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
thompson1000 ?Sep, 2005 -
Bob M 29 Aug, 2005 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
with Stewart Walker
feilx ??, 2005 AltLd
with Ian Lovatt
with Ian Lovatt
brian watson ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
five 12 Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with PW, TW
with PW, TW
Bob M 26 Jul, 2000 -
with Jill Stevens
with Jill Stevens
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
FrankW 6 Sep, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Giles H
with Giles H
Hidden 28 Feb, 1999 Lead O/S
r0b 27 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
with Andy Jefferies
IanGilbertJones 27 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
sdht ??, 1993 -
kylo-342 ?May, 1991 -
with Paul
with Paul
steve taylor ?Jun, 1990 AltLd
with steve kerr
with steve kerr
MoWalker3 7 May, 1990 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
RichardMc 8 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
with Pam Holt, Angel Vila
with Pam Holt, Angel Vila
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 AltLd
with Mathew
with Mathew
bazzag ??, 1988 2nd
with carl and co.
with carl and co.
JamieAyres ?Jun, 1985 Solo dnf aided in and out of the cave - 1st aid pitch only
with Crispin Waddy
aided in and out of the cave - 1st aid pitch only
with Crispin Waddy
Dreamchaser 16 Mar, 1983 -
Norman_P_W ??, 1980 -
Nigel Coe ??, 1979 AltLd Approx date. Got wet when I leant too far sideways on a nut on the aid section.
with Allan Yeend, Dave Kyle
Approx date. Got wet when I leant too far sideways on a nut on the aid section.
with Allan Yeend, Dave Kyle
scott titt 24 Apr, 1976 - FA
FA
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Voting
High A2
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Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
High A0
Mid A0
Low A0
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set