50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This popular but serious undertaking delves into the deep zawn at the western limits of The Promenade. Calm seas are essential for the first pitch - if it is remotely rough then keep away.
1) A1, 15m. Drop down and follow the side wall of the zawn just above the water, pulling on fixed threads and nuts to gain a rock bridge at the back of the zawn.
2) 4b , 15m. Climb the dark chimney above on good holds, until you are spat out of the blow hole, belay immediately. Lots of slings for threads needed.
3) 4b , 20m. Traverse awkwardly right to the arete, where a ledge leads right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Scott Titt, D.Gumn, R.J.Crewe 24.4.76 24/Apr/1976

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, HVS Adventures, Through Routes!, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Swanage, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, SW Climbs - Swanage, Type 2 Fun, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist.

Hidden 14/Aug/17 AltLd
ciderspider 07/Jul/17 2nd O/S

first visited this two years ago. As my partner (ciderslider) disappeared into the cave and the swell grew my bottle went and we backed off before I had even started. This became a monkey on my back so we vowed to return under better conditions. Today was that day. And what an epic adventure! Possibly type 2 fun in places (certainly the greasy second pitch) but this was my first time aid climbing and it was a lot of fun! Yep it is committing, but well worth the effort - great lead Reedy.

MDR61 07/Jul/17 Lead rpt

What an adventure !!!!!!! I'd previously led P1 only (and reversed it due to conditions). This time conditions were perfect - P1 led and just as strenuous as before. Ian did a great job on his first ever aid pitch (and considering his lack of reach). P2 no pushover, not really being able to see properly and everything being slimy - hardest getting off the belay, but once underway and past the jammed boulder big holds and good threads. Just as I was finishing P2 and pulling out of the hole a pigeon which had been sitting on its nest in the darkness flew into my face !!!! Gull with three checks on nest at entrance to blow hole - had to get around them without any of them tumbling off ledge - last pitch straightforward but no gear and very crumbly - so don't fall off. Total mad adventure - like Avernus on steroids !!!!!!

Graham Westbrook 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Some of the threads are looking pretty manky! Gopping 2nd pitch but a great route! Quite strenuous on the aid section!

lazza 21/Jun/17 AltLd

Epic!!! Intimidating and terrifying seconding of pitch one including a fall and a chalk bag dip in the sea. Greasy and very dark chimney lead up what seemed like an endless pitch 2. So relieved to reach the blow hole and the not so friendly seagull. Wow what a route though, one to remember!!

with Gareth
Gareth 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Gareth 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. Great after work adventure on the longest day of the year

mattkemp70 ?/Jun/17 AltLd
with Westy
superturbo 09/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Ridiculous route. Leading p1 was a hard intro to aiding but good craic. Mini zawn fun, peak esoterica

with Martin
Martin Bagshaw 09/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Weird shit.

catrin289 ?/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Excellent adventure. Glad I wasn't leading the aid pitch - an interesting intro to aid.

with Jake
Jane Weir 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Adrian Paisey
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
David Staples 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
w-watson 06/May/16 AltLd
Pok ??/2016 -
Philoosh 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S

A crazy climb. Aiding the first pitch on dodgy tat with the waves hitting below was insane. Loved it.

Matt.c.Warner 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Will
CreepingExcellence. 18/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome little adventure! With no aid climbing experience or ability to speak of I found pitch 1'fairly strenuous mainly getting bodyweight off threads to unclip from them. Leading pitch 2 was brilliant even if all the holds were covered in an interesting mixture of slime, grease and pigeon shit. Easy and slightly anticlimactic final pitch.

Stanners 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Properly prepared this time we set off from bristol psyched to finally tick this. An extremely memorable outing self teaching aid climbing skills on the move. A few freak waves were exciting! Solid effort from Andy speeding up the second pitch with little hesitation . P2 is ridiculously adventurous yet caked in jugs. No idea how the last pitch warrants 4b, its about diff! What an adventure!! 5 stars. Chilli cheese dog well earned.

with Andy G
Stanners 03/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Had a nosey around the start of the traverse totally buzzing yet terrified ! Scary sea cave routes seem to be attracting us! After much contemplation, with it being late in the day and servely dehydrated the decision was made to return to it being the main focus in the future. Hours later the alarm was set for a 5:30am start before we had to shoot off to bristol..alas the teenage student got the better of us and we fell back asleep in our bivvi in the car park! Back SOON BENNY.

with Andy G
SamJones974 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Will Watson
MontyH 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Flipping brilliant!!!

with Brian and Paul
brian watson 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Always a joy!!

with Paul Milton
jacobjacob 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
Alex Hallam 31/May/14 2nd O/S

Adventurous, esoteric and exceptional are all words that can be associated with this spectacular horrible route. Not to mention wet, greasy and ornithological. Kit could have probably benefited from etriers and possibly even some upper body strength with a dusting of willpower, however with Rust and Hallams duet the 3 hours spent aiding the route did not pass maladroitly. I will never forget this day. GET ON IT!

rustaldo 31/May/14 Lead O/S

A very memorable 6hrs of climbing. P1 is great fun swinging around on threads until you reach the crux where you actually have to resort to aid. The belay has good acoustics which have been extensively tested. P2 has really cool rock but was very damp and greasy, didn't matter too much though. P3 guarded by a hostile and vocal seagull. If this is the only route you do all day and takes around 5-6 hrs then you're probably climbing with LT RN Kit Perry. A very good adventure!

will moy 14/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

pretty cool. not sure went the right way on pitch 3.

with paul taylor
paultaylor 14/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, amazeballs, great adventure

Luxulyan 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan S
MDR61 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

P1 only (and in reverse). Wow ! What a fantastic adventure - got soaked on the way in and by the time I got to the belay the sea was really rough ! My mate didn't fancy it at all so I had to reverse the first pitch. Shame I didn't get to do the second pitch but an excellent adventure none the less.

AlexD 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

hooray properly brilliant! led p1 and 3.

halfwaythere 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with tony
Sophie Nunn 02/Jun/13 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden ??/2013 -
1202alarm 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Si Ball
johang 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

took 1st and 3rd pitches. The whole climb is just fantastic. Crazy, crazy setting. Main point for anyone thinking about this is that the 1st pitch is definitely aid climbing, so use slings for foot-holds, don't just pull on the threads as this increases the difficulty to something akin to F6b+ without footholds :D....

Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd
Sam Husband 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Took for bloody ever and the climbing itself is fairly uninspiring but it's a great adventure and definitely a 3* climb, like a bigger version of Avernus.

with Ed
Stroppy 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3, no concept of aid climbing made P1 much more difficult than it had to be. Took all day; brilliant adventure. Had some very close moments with my partner on the belay ledge.

Helen Gibson ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
The Ivanator 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

A most excellent adventure. I led P2. Just monkeyed across the aid traverse and didn't faff with foot loops - strenuous but saved loads of time.

with Toby
Ybot Htulk 02/Oct/11 AltLd

Been drawn to this one for ages and it lived up to expectations

with Ivan
uncontrollable 26/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2, Alan led rest. Very wet and greasy, entertaining ...

with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3. Good fun aiding into the cave, but very damp up the chimney. Popped out of the blowhole just as the sea fog was receding from the cliffs.

Jim Slater 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Geart stuff, bit of an adventure. First bit of aid climbing for me.

with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd
colkurtz 19/Mar/11 AltLd
with Robb
Theeni ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

As clean as one can climb an aid route. I took P1(aid) and P3 for the glory.

mattkemp70 ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with Henry
Danh89 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch

with LukeyG
LukeyG ?/Aug/10 AltLd

Led pitch 1 and 3, took about 4 hours, snapped a thread but replaced it.

with Danh89
Hidden 06/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
nick hawkins 06/May/10 Lead O/S

did the aid pitch using three 120cm slings, found it quite awkward. pitch 2 and 3 very straight forward.

with mike
climbtim 06/Apr/10 AltLd

Second pitch, 4b/4c - top pitch pretty easy. Took 4 and half hours - mainly the aid pitch. A awesome atmospheric climb

Hidden 06/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
andy jennings 02/Jan/10 -

Most of the manky old threads renewed 02.01.10

with Floris
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
northnorthnorth 31/May/09 Lead O/S

What an experience! Messed up the first (aid) pitch for the second. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are pretty easy for VS technically; I think that the VS is there for the atmosphere and seriousness of the route. Highly recommended!

with Tomo
SGD 22/May/09 AltLd

we did paper scissors stone for the lead and I won (lost) so I did P1 and P3....the scariest traverese I've ever done

with Tom Relf
uncontrollable 19/Apr/09 Solo O/S

roped solo - some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, make sure to take some narrow tape or rope with you.

Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme 23/Aug/08 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 04/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 04/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Really surreal in the zawn.

with Harry
Hidden 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
adrianjenner 01/Jan/08 2nd O/S
tobydunford 25/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch - wow! what a route, full of adventure and great banter!

with Harry Martin
david morse 22/Jul/07 AltLd
with rampant and general
general 22/Jul/07 AltLd
with Rampant, David Morse
BALD EAGLE 28/Apr/07 Lead
with Christian Darr
Dorset ??/2007 2nd

Wow what a laugh

with Neil Weymouth
featuresforfeet 02/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Found the aid pitch really quite hard;

Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
with James Dunlop
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
thompson1000 ?/Sep/05 -
Bob M 29/Aug/05 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
feilx ??/2005 AltLd
with Ian Lovatt
brian watson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
five 12/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with PW, TW
Bob M 26/Jul/00 -
with Jill Stevens
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
FrankW 06/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Giles H
Hidden 28/Feb/99 Lead O/S
r0b 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
IanGilbertJones 27/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
sdht ??/1993 -
kp64zl ?/May/91 -
with Paul
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with steve kerr
MoWalker3 07/May/90 AltLd
with Joe
RichardMc 08/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Pam Holt, Angel Vila
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 AltLd
with Mathew
bazzag ??/1988 2nd
with carl and co.
JamieAyres ?/Jun/85 Solo dnf

aided in and out of the cave - 1st aid pitch only

with Crispin Waddy
Dreamchaser 16/Mar/83 -
Norman_P_W ??/1980 -
Nigel Coe ??/1979 AltLd

Approx date. Got wet when I leant too far sideways on a nut on the aid section.

with Allan Yeend, Dave Kyle
Hidden 24/Apr/76 -
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High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
High A0
Mid A0
Low A0
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set