Rockfax Description
A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall. Start at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 5b, 42m. Move onto a ledge and pull up a short, steep wall to a slab on the right. Move steeply up left to a crack-line and jugs. Traverse left to a tiny short corner and rest ledge at its top. Move left to a short right-facing corner, then traverse left once again to the base of a corner/groove line. Climb this past the mid-height fault-line to a belay on ledges above.
2) 5b, 25m. From the right-hand end of the ledge move up a flake, and into a shallow groove on the left. Make a tricky move to a good horizontal crack above, then traverse rightwards to a narrow ledge. Move right along the ledge to a blocky corner and climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ian bryant 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice route, interesting line. second pitch is not for shorties!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice route, interesting line. second pitch is not for shorties!
cem 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, even if the difficulties on pitch 2 are so short lived.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, even if the difficulties on pitch 2 are so short lived.
GrahamD 12 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Agree that it is intimidating to second pitch 1 but the moves are not too desperate. E2 for situation. Its a shame that pitch 2 eases off so much after reaching the break - still ***
 
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Agree that it is intimidating to second pitch 1 but the moves are not too desperate. E2 for situation. Its a shame that pitch 2 eases off so much after reaching the break - still ***
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
bradfry 15 Sep AltLd O/S Amazing route and the best pitch of climbing I have done at Swanage. Very sandy and the rope work is complex. Thanks to whoever left two fixed wires for me o the first pitch!
with LukeyG
Amazing route and the best pitch of climbing I have done at Swanage. Very sandy and the rope work is complex. Thanks to whoever left two fixed wires for me o the first pitch!
with LukeyG
Owen Davies 8 Sep Lead O/S Hard Very Sandy.
with Mum
Hard Very Sandy.
with Mum
Hidden 17 Aug 2nd dnf
peterbbrown 11 Aug AltLd rpt I'd forgotten what a great route this is, and also where it went.
I'd forgotten what a great route this is, and also where it went.
tsmilton 11 Aug AltLd dog Lead p2. Did a lot of falling on p1 and a lot of resting on p2
Lead p2. Did a lot of falling on p1 and a lot of resting on p2
Bruise Apprentice 3 Aug Lead O/S Sensational! Mega route, requiring mega arms and all of your alpine draws. Bird ban had just lifted so crucial holds were still covered with a good layer of Swanage Finest Sand. Also, Matt managed to sit on a dead bird at the belay which had clearly been eaten by another bird. Didn't find the long reach on P2 to the horizontal break that bad, but nearly split myself in half latching the start of the crack from the big flake on the face though. Celebrated not dying/falling/sitting in that dead bird with a cheeseburger at the Scott Arms.
Sensational! Mega route, requiring mega arms and all of your alpine draws. Bird ban had just lifted so crucial holds were still covered with a good layer of Swanage Finest Sand. Also, Matt managed to sit on a dead bird at the belay which had clearly been eaten by another bird. Didn't find the long reach on P2 to the horizontal break that bad, but nearly split myself in half latching the start of the crack from the big flake on the face though. Celebrated not dying/falling/sitting in that dead bird with a cheeseburger at the Scott Arms.
matt1024 3 Aug 2nd O/S Absolutely epic route. Technical climbing across the traverse with sustained section in the cracks to the left. At 5'6" was just able to reach the good holds at the start of P2. Marianne was less lucky...
Absolutely epic route. Technical climbing across the traverse with sustained section in the cracks to the left. At 5'6" was just able to reach the good holds at the start of P2. Marianne was less lucky...
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 -
Tom Livingstone 16 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Mark Stevenson 16 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
donie ?Oct, 2018 -
donie ?Oct, 2018 -
paultaylor 26 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Matt77 9 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt 2nd pitch, no fall this time.
with Tom Riddelsdell
2nd pitch, no fall this time.
with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
richfitz 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Hannes B 14 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Delyth
with Delyth
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
clanger ??, 2018 -
with Ian Parsons
with Ian Parsons
Flavio 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 14 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
marcduhig 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with pep
with pep
Andrew Sloan 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led second pitch.
Led second pitch.
Martin Haworth 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
NuclearNev ??, 2017 -
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
mike.moss 11 Dec, 2016 2nd dog
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 11 Dec, 2016 Lead
Matt77 24 Sep, 2016 Lead G/U
with Alex Horton
with Alex Horton
Neil McA 24 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S felt hard! would not have been comfortable leading this on the day.
felt hard! would not have been comfortable leading this on the day.
morganator 24 Sep, 2016 Lead
Horton 24 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Above my pay grade. Almost peeled off the traverse a couple of times and was pumped as hell afterwards. Great adventure, though
with Matt77
Above my pay grade. Almost peeled off the traverse a couple of times and was pumped as hell afterwards. Great adventure, though
with Matt77
eel ?Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Caff, Jack
with Caff, Jack
Jack Geldard ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
LucaC 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S P1
with George
P1
with George
ian d f 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Geras 7 Aug, 2016 2nd First E2 in a long while and 1st 5B of the year. Found getting established in the crack of the first pitch hard due to rope drag. Found hold to the right of the bucket which allowed me to get my feet up without the rope drag, but took 3/4 attempts. The long reach on the second pitch I cracked by pulling on the white crystals on the wall to the right. This allowed me to get my left foot up and reach for the break. Fantastic but very sustained. Needed a couple of rests, especially to get some of the gear out.
with cdpuk
First E2 in a long while and 1st 5B of the year. Found getting established in the crack of the first pitch hard due to rope drag. Found hold to the right of the bucket which allowed me to get my feet up without the rope drag, but took 3/4 attempts. The long reach on the second pitch I cracked by pulling on the white crystals on the wall to the right. This allowed me to get my left foot up and reach for the break. Fantastic but very sustained. Needed a couple of rests, especially to get some of the gear out.
with cdpuk
cdpuk 7 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Very dusty start. Poor ropework caused mega drag, requiring some rests. P2 was fine.
with Geras
Very dusty start. Poor ropework caused mega drag, requiring some rests. P2 was fine.
with Geras
onlyfoddington 7 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S First pitch not too bad, and Ian teased out a stuck nut.
with ian d f
First pitch not too bad, and Ian teased out a stuck nut.
with ian d f
ricci.andrea86 ??, 2016 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
bryan61 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S 1st on it after bird ban, brilliant climbing
with m meaney
1st on it after bird ban, brilliant climbing
with m meaney
hamer89 ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Spicy rock quality!
Spicy rock quality!
adam 24 21 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Cool roue. Led P1, very dusty
with Paul Clarkson
Cool roue. Led P1, very dusty
with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 18 Sep, 2014 Lead
andycash 6 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Ash Sayers 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Beautiful first pitch. Reachy steep second pitch, short but felt more like 5c. Had to rest on gear.
Beautiful first pitch. Reachy steep second pitch, short but felt more like 5c. Had to rest on gear.
Rachel Slater 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd Slipped off leading pitch 2 which was quite a funny surprise! Lowered down then did it clean from the belay.
Slipped off leading pitch 2 which was quite a funny surprise! Lowered down then did it clean from the belay.
Duncan Campbell 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1. Brilliant Sandy climbing. Nowhere desperate but the quality of the rock and or gear keeps it interesting.
Led P1. Brilliant Sandy climbing. Nowhere desperate but the quality of the rock and or gear keeps it interesting.
Monkey_Alan 16 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1. First "Proper" E2. Nearly went too far along the traverse, but got corrected by Lawrence. Good and pumpy, not too technical.
Led P1. First "Proper" E2. Nearly went too far along the traverse, but got corrected by Lawrence. Good and pumpy, not too technical.
Sophie Nunn 1 Aug, 2013 2nd rpt
Luxulyan 1 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden 14 Oct, 2012 Lead
AlexD 30 Sep, 2012 AltLd β Led p1, awesome adventure! epic pump, routefinding and drag. V happy to make the belay! First swanage e2 :)
with Ed Babs
Led p1, awesome adventure! epic pump, routefinding and drag. V happy to make the belay! First swanage e2 :)
with Ed Babs
tonevert 30 Sep, 2012 2nd
Kevster 30 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 28 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1, took ages, but it is more complicated than difficult. Route finding not obvious, but basic plan is to stay as low as possible along traverse. Foolishly deviated from ropework plan mid-pitch and suffered hellish drag.
with Ryan
Led P1, took ages, but it is more complicated than difficult. Route finding not obvious, but basic plan is to stay as low as possible along traverse. Foolishly deviated from ropework plan mid-pitch and suffered hellish drag.
with Ryan
Graham Westbrook 28 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Dusty start and the finish of both pitches is loose. Worth 1* I reckon
Dusty start and the finish of both pitches is loose. Worth 1* I reckon
London Luke 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Complicated little thing with some nice technical climbing.
Complicated little thing with some nice technical climbing.
Dizz 26 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Hugh T
with Hugh T
givemetea 22 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1
with Ali Taylor
Led P1
with Ali Taylor
jcook1980 1 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Dan Moore
with Dan Moore
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 -
jacobjlloyd 22 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Glad to finally do this! Loads of fun. Both pitches were good, but pitch two was perfect. Nothing serious, though i didn't extend a runner on the traverse and paid for it later. Topless trad in january! Got to love Swanage!
with Jenni
Glad to finally do this! Loads of fun. Both pitches were good, but pitch two was perfect. Nothing serious, though i didn't extend a runner on the traverse and paid for it later. Topless trad in january! Got to love Swanage!
with Jenni
Hidden 22 Jan, 2012 2nd β
manwithacam 21 Jan, 2012 AltLd great route, the cliff is really big just here. My second E2 at Swanage. Easier than Gypsy I thought but sustained.
with Mike R
great route, the cliff is really big just here. My second E2 at Swanage. Easier than Gypsy I thought but sustained.
with Mike R
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Sophie Nunn 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Led p2
Led p2
Toby Dunn 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
WB 25 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S good route not that serious
with GuyM
good route not that serious
with GuyM
Misha 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with tonanf
with tonanf
GuyM ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
with WB
with WB
cooperman 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great lead from Greg on P1 - airy and committing, sandy and some suspect rock but never desperate. tough move on P2 to gain horizontal - rested!
with Greg Foster
Great lead from Greg on P1 - airy and committing, sandy and some suspect rock but never desperate. tough move on P2 to gain horizontal - rested!
with Greg Foster
Hidden 19 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
Marcus ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
3 Names 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
scott titt 25 Oct, 2009 AltLd
brian watson 25 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead P1
Lead P1
clipskipper 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Finally got onto it, and enjoyed it. Second pitch crux sketchy, but it appears I missed a hold :-)
with Ed Babington
Finally got onto it, and enjoyed it. Second pitch crux sketchy, but it appears I missed a hold :-)
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S P1 - fantastic position. And P2 with AlexD 30 Sep 2012. I can't believe the chopping block at the top of Oceanid is still there. There is almost nothing holding it now and it still won't budge.
P1 - fantastic position. And P2 with AlexD 30 Sep 2012. I can't believe the chopping block at the top of Oceanid is still there. There is almost nothing holding it now and it still won't budge.
feilx 31 Jan, 2009 AltLd rpt
TiffTiff 31 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
Jane Weir ??, 2009 2nd
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Richard Horn 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 15 Sep, 2008 AltLd Led P1 - great pitch.
with Simon Chandler
Led P1 - great pitch.
with Simon Chandler
dannyboy83 12 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Heather Rogers
with Heather Rogers
tonanf ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S excellent
with Pep
excellent
with Pep
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
haydng ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Will
with Will
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Hidden 9 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
nathanmanc ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
with Chris Todd
cem 11 Dec, 2005 Lead O/S Led both pitches
with GrahamD
Led both pitches
with GrahamD
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 5 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 25 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
shoulders ??, 2001 2nd
with sharpie
with sharpie
ellis ?Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Bull
with Duncan Bull
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 1 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
andyblain ?Sep, 1998 AltLd O/S
Roget 1 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
sadams 23 Jun, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Andy Long
with Andy Long
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
Mark Kemball 22 Aug, 1996 AltLd
with Lee Bartrop
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden ?Jan, 1995 AltLd O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
duncan ?Nov, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?Aug, 1990 Lead
with steve kerr
with steve kerr
Derek Ryden 14 Jan, 1990 Lead O/S
with John Hunt
with John Hunt
keefe ??, 1990 -
MikePycroft 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd
steveb2006 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd Lead first pitch
Lead first pitch
Pete Nugent 1 Nov, 1988 AltLd I led p1. Was also given E2 in the 1986 CC Guide
with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
I led p1. Was also given E2 in the 1986 CC Guide
with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
Dave Musgrove 28 Feb, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
with Richard Crewe
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??, 1987 AltLd O/S Nice positions but really not that great a climb
with Gary Crocker
Nice positions but really not that great a climb
with Gary Crocker
pete johnson 2 Nov, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Andy Tallant
with Andy Tallant
Nigel Coe 22 Feb, 1986 AltLd dog Got knackered removing what I found out from Gordon was an in-situ nut.
Got knackered removing what I found out from Gordon was an in-situ nut.
Sully 4 Oct, 1982 2nd O/S
with DP
with DP
Chris Terrey ?Sep, 1980 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Nigel Coe 6 Jan, 1980 Lead dnf Escaped as for Nemesis.
with Alan Walmsley, John Walmsley
Escaped as for Nemesis.
with Alan Walmsley, John Walmsley
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
barny ??, 1980 AltLd Exciting moment as I was leading the first pitch - bloody great seagull flew out of one of the big cracks/recesses right into my face. Doug led p2. Nice route, great location.
with Wee Dougie
Exciting moment as I was leading the first pitch - bloody great seagull flew out of one of the big cracks/recesses right into my face. Doug led p2. Nice route, great location.
with Wee Dougie
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Nigel Coe 7 Oct, 1979 2nd dog 1 pt aid
with Frank Farrell
1 pt aid
with Frank Farrell
Falko ??, 1977 Lead O/S This was the second ascent and was watched by all three first (clean) ascentionist - no pressure there then!
with A N Other
This was the second ascent and was watched by all three first (clean) ascentionist - no pressure there then!
with A N Other
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 55
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set