33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route up a gear-packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over the years and now fully merits its HVS grade.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a wall to gain the corner, which leads steeply to a ledge on the left, as for Ledgend.
2) 4a, 15m. As for Ledgend pitch two. © Rockfax

FA. P.Neame, A.Monnery 12/Feb/1967

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The V.S.+ Ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

rd20 15/Oct/17 AltLd O/S


with Peri
jimbonfire 14/Oct/17 2nd rpt
with Georgio
GeorgiePorgie1 14/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one. Absolute beauty! Enjoyed every second of the crux. Fabulous finish to an amazing day looking at the beautiful sunset over the horizon. Jumbo smashed pitch two, didn't even bother to place gear. :)

with Jim Broomhead
Mike Turner 28/Sep/17 AltLd

I lead P1 & struggled in the crack / rested on gear

with Guy Reid
DanC1985 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Climbed it twice that day, lead it first onsite then repeated on second to retreve stuck cam (and so Sarah could have a fun lead too).

with Sue, Sarah
dkilner 28/Jul/17 AltLd
ChristyCole 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Luke90 27/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 27/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Luke
hfotheri 16/Jul/17 AltLd dog
with simon
Mike Weatherill 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/17 2nd O/S
jjwolf 07/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Ed Hastings 07/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe Wolfensohn
Elliot King LC&CC 31/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Tony Flint
Tristan.Stricker 29/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Felt like E1 with the grease.

with Jena
meinecke 29/Apr/17 Lead

In 1 pitch. The moves out of the corner felt bold... bring a #3 or #4 cam to protect the crux

Longsufferingropeholder 14/Apr/17 Lead
with C May
C May 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Tim
Mattholland96 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Dad
Sam4242 25/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Dan Richards
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Francois R 29/Oct/16 2nd

In 1 pitch

with Jason
jimbonfire 22/Oct/16 AltLd
with TT
Kirill 08/Oct/16 Lead
with EeFu
EeFu 08/Oct/16 2nd dog
Pete Scott 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Brady Led P1. I did P2

with Brady
bradycallahan 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Pete
bsparky 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Simon Middleton
Richard Byrom 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Superb crack for the crux

with Simon Middleton
ig248 24/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with Berta Lopez
tim.fairhall 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 20/Jul/16 2nd β
superturbo 10/Jul/16 2nd
jcooper8 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Oliver Smaje 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
Denoir 18/Jun/16 AltLd
DanC1985 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Claire, Sarah
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead
Leelogs 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah, Dan
Hidden 18/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
mattc 18/Apr/16 Lead β

First pitch. Re climbed after bailing the day before.

with tim
Chris Sansum 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Truan P1, Chris P2. P2 is poor. Would probably be better to join another route and head for the top rather than traversing out.

with Truan Willis, Ruth White
mjeffery 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
LJKing 25/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
with Steve Melvin
tsyrett 06/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/15 Lead rpt
DavidFarrow 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Marianne Khoo
mariannekhoo 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Led it in one pitch

with Dave Farrow
Tubs 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Good but I thought this was a gift and more like average VS. Maybe it's one that's easier for us shorties.

with AJM
Pat Sollom 12/Sep/15 TR O/S

Julian took approx 15m lead fall from near top. Knocked unconcious below roof after smashing into rock face upside down. Julian suffered a mild concussion and temporary amnesia from the shock of the fall. Someone named Ian top rope belayed us out with 20 minutes sunlight left.

with Ian
AJM 12/Sep/15 2nd β
Julian Prieto 12/Sep/15 Lead rpt
DampRice 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
kenneM 22/Aug/15 AltLd

2nd pitch

with Chris
mattprince 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Jon Wilson
bryan61 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

done in 1 pitch

with m meaney
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb, led in 1 pitch

Monkey_Alan 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
GPN 03/Jul/15 Lead
with Annette
net 03/Jul/15 2nd

Horribly greasy and hot!

with George
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Jan.Hrb 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ales
Robs_Uren 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Caitlin 13/Jun/15 AltLd
mikespooner 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 07/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with Clare Johnson, DAJ Johnson
Paula Ryan ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Flavio 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
mishabruml 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Led P1. Got to the crux easily, placed high gear and came down for a rest. Went up and down to the tricky moves a few times, thought I couldn't do it because of the slime, but then just went for it. Scary, but once you get high feet and layback hard the holds which I thought were nasty jams become good sidepulls. Very nearly fell though and had to take quite a long breather before I built the belay!

with David Gainor
jungle 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Took a whipper from the top of the crack. Cam slipped out and No.4 held me. New pants needed

with Paul Mcarthy
Hidden 10/Mar/15 Lead rpt
elliptic 24/Jan/15 AltLd
with Tom R.
roberts1234567890 24/Jan/15 AltLd
with Will Moy
matt.jj ??/2015 2nd
Dave Mahon ??/2015 Lead
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 2nd

In one pitch

hotfeet 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
andycash 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ash
mattprince 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tricky move up the lay back, good gear all the way.

with Will Graham
WillGraham1 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Norman_P_W 05/Jul/14 Lead
with Max S
Murilo Lessa 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

soft. Backup these nasty pegs!

with Hiannan
TomRiddelsdell 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

CurlyStevo 25/May/14 2nd

Quite a few moves in a row but never too hard. Good rock on the crux but often a bit damp feeling on holds you would much rather bone dry!

with Mick Ward
islandlynx 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Run out more than I wanted because I wasn't that confident placing gear whilst weighting my arms, not for lack of options. Decided to make the easy moves instead of hanging round

Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Julian Prieto 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P1

brian watson 11/May/14 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 11/May/14 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd
clipskipper 04/May/14 AltLd β

All steady stuff

with Davey Boy
Peter Lovell 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


stuart34 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Gabi
leglesslizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


Andrew Sloan 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Final route of the day. Quite tired and so found it tough especially the left hand start.

Martin Haworth 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
CurlyStevo ?/Dec/13 Lead

damp on the crux. Done as one pitch.

Hidden 24/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
will moy 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Oakley
Martin Bagshaw 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ipegg 22/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd rpt
francois 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Chawn
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead
Vincej 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Nevil
Nick Clement 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 24/Jul/13 AltLd
darren hudson 13/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Thought I was climbing batt crack, but realised once under the overhang it was too tough for elliot ( good excuse as I was getting pumped and climbing shite!). Had to climb back down and sacrifice a sling lower down. Damn. Big cam handy under the overhang.

with elliot ford, David Ford
WalnutHorse 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S


joedoherty 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Josh Rigby
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
jezb1 18/May/13 Lead

Bit soapy and upset the grumpy man climbing Ledgend as apparently we shouldn't have chosen a route so close to his...

Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Tightsgirl 20/Apr/13 AltLd
arose 20/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Boogs 18/Nov/12 2nd β

Again John considerately lead both pitches at a good rate . Engrossing climb with some fingery holds and tricky moves in a corner below and left of second pitch belay .

Bob M 11/Nov/12 2nd
Monkey_Alan 11/Nov/12 Lead RP

As 1 pitch. Finally got this one ticked!

LaMentalist ?/Nov/12 AltLd

Nice route with solid gear , highly recommend .

Mr-Cowdrey 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
mikehenesy 15/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Was a bit shagged after the last route but thought I'd be ok on a VS, but was blowin o.m.a at the top of the crack and had to hang about on the rope, getting on to the first ledge was a bugger to start with too. Much relieved to see it's now an HVS. Must get a new guide book.

with Tim Johns
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
tobydunford 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Dizz 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Hugh T
Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mattyork2 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great moves on the overhanging bridging crack on pitch 1.

with Johnny Richard
jwhp 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead second (largely non existent) pitch. Great lay back in crux

therat 04/Aug/12 Lead
Stroppy 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A great climb! Difficult but well protected crux.

with Sam Lands
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd dog
paultaylor 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

P1, did pitch 2 bare foot for fun.

will moy 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
nic42 08/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with air, stef, simon
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S

VS with one 5a move

Kirill 13/Nov/11 AltLd dog

led p1 with one fall

cem 13/Nov/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2

Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead
DOVEY ?/Nov/11 -
with Budd
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
MDR61 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

After all the psych I was surprised at how easily it went (although it was lovely and dry - no grease at all). Bomber gear and just a couple of committing moves before the pre ledge jugfest. Can't believe I've actually lead my first HVS - get in there !!!! Done as a single pitch.

Fatclimber 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Slarti B 08/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

First HVS lead! I led pitch 1. Hard but good gear and nice rest before the vertical crack.

with Paul
riddle 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
nickdonohue ?/Oct/11 Lead
with Emma Grant, Chris Ridgers
Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd
Geoffers 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch

with Tim
Kerm ?/Sep/11 -
jasonpm 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Martin Hore, Simon Chandler
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
wi11 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd
trevor macalonan 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
LukeyG ?/Jun/11 Lead
jezb1 26/Apr/11 2nd

Have lead before

Julian Prieto 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

uncontrollable 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

with Julian P
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd
AlexD 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

grease central

with Scott
clipskipper 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Well protected with a thuggy crux. Lots of safe fun.

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 AltLd dog

Failed at the same point as before, but this time had strength to pull onto the ledge after a rest on the rope.

with Mark James
risby 07/Nov/10 AltLd rpt

I led first pitch, Leon led second

leonjones 07/Nov/10 AltLd

Ris P1, Me P2. Came off at the hard bit.

Andre Clarke 24/Oct/10 Lead dog

Lead first pitch. Crack thinner than it looks but holds plenty of gear.

with Tom Vaughan
risby 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch on blue rope after Tom had already led it on green rope while Andre belayed us both direct from the ledge end.

Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
matt.jj ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Followed first pitch which was testing but enjoyable. Personally found the crack slippery due to salt. Boring second pitch.

martin one 26/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Tim
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
climbtim 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
givemetea 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. hold on layback crux felt like someone had poured cooking oil over it - argh!

with Patrick
Hidden 06/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/May/10 TR

Tried leading, damp in crack near the top of P1. Tried to move up several times before getting hands to the ledge and finding... nothing. Eventually feet popped off and I fell a short distance onto a good cam. Arms too pumped to try again, so got Paul & Jill to lower a top rope.

with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Ris Wright
risby 23/May/10 TR dog
with jill stevens
breed 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with Ellis Bird
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Sam Fergason
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
pelvoux 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

First climb of the day, brilliant!

with Priit, Mario
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 19/Aug/09 AltLd
with Sean
Perryman 19/Aug/09 AltLd dog

(1st pitch) dont like trad! but looked like a good climb with a ballsy overhung crux, where i laid loads of protection like a scared little girl!

LiLaMont 15/Aug/09 2nd O/S
jezb1 14/Jun/09 Lead

Ld both pitches. My old guide book says VS 4c, and it felt harder to me so glad the new book gives it the new grade. Really enjoyed it.

Elliot King LC&CC 10/Jun/09 Lead β
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
with tomek
MarkRyder 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Lee
SGD 21/May/09 2nd

tom led in 1 pitch

with Tom Relf
Ceridwen 20/May/09 AltLd dog
Sophie Nunn 20/May/09 AltLd
RFWilkie 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Bec
becster 09/May/09 AltLd
TiffTiff 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/08 AltLd
RocknRoll 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

The crux felt scary but it was just a case of grabing one jug after another and it was all over. Strung both pitches together

with Peter Murphy
Rollo 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Thuggy crack and layback. Used a cheeky knee jam to rest before the crux.

with Tom
Tom Gadsden 30/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Roly
PilarMartinez 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Roland
dan gibson 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
davenev ?/Aug/08 AltLd dog

Led to the crux - then set up hanging belay to get Luke up to attack the crux - reachy!!!

with luke
Mr Tickle 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Greasy crack makes crux tough. But good gear.

with davenev
tebs 22/Jun/08 2nd β


with Mike
Hidden 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Bob M 05/Aug/07 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Ed Babs ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Danos ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Barry
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
andyfeds ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Max S
Marq 08/Apr/06 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
Boxy 25/Jun/05 Lead
feilx ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead O/S
ferdia 31/Oct/04 2nd
with Mike Mavrolean, Andrew Wielochowski
Outdoorfun37 15/Jun/04 2nd
with Paul Chidel
Owen W-G 16/May/04 Lead O/S

9th ever lead, and first HVS, altho was VS in my guidebook at the time. Remember finding it hard.

with Matt Baynham
Richard Horn ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
five ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 18/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Nick Fisher
Hidden 03/Oct/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
climbtim ?/Oct/00 AltLd
with ghost
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Bob M 21/Nov/99 2nd dnf

Jill fell off, runner pulled, one broken ankle. Self rescue by crawl to the ab rope and prusik to the quarry, then called out coastguard.

with Jill Stevens
cem 12/Sep/99 2nd β

Backed off it on lead

Lepista 29/May/99 Lead

With RW

Bob M 07/Mar/99 2nd
with Richard Broadhead, Jill Stevens
CMacD ??/1999 -
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead dog
Bob M 22/Mar/98 2nd
with Pam Jolliffe
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Jan/96 AltLd
with James B
colin milton 26/Aug/95 Lead
Geoffers ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Bean
TonyF 15/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
sdht ??/1993 -
MoWalker3 16/Nov/91 AltLd
with Joe
Nigel Coe 13/May/87 Lead

Roped solo using an upside-down shunt.

Andy Chubb 10/May/87 AltLd
with Jeremy Cole
Nigel Coe 23/Nov/86 Lead
with Mike Scott
Moses 25/Oct/86 Lead O/S
RichardMc 22/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris Owens
Nigel Coe 16/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
turnerk ??/1979 Lead O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set