UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.

User attention

The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023

20m.

Rockfax Description
A classy and sustained pitch to the left of the big cave. A bit of burly manoeuvring around the lower overhangs is followed by some more refined moves up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 28/Nov/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Winspit apprenticeship , Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , The post lockdown local list , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jakebirdy 6 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Good route, much harder if you don’t use the undercut for the starting boulder problem - Maybe the hardest individual moves on a 7a+. Gives way to rewarding climbing to the anchor, excellent route.
Show beta
βeta: Good route, much harder if you don’t use the undercut for the starting boulder problem - Maybe the hardest individual moves on a 7a+. Gives way to rewarding climbing to the anchor, excellent route.
Rob Kennard 17 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right?
Ben Stokes 1 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy.
Climber_Bill 14 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+.
Rob Kennard 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project.

Logged Ascents

89 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Winspit

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mariner's Graveyard

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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