20m.

Rockfax Description
A classy and sustained pitch to the left of the big cave. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 28/Nov/1993

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Winspit apprenticeship, Winspit Sport Climbs, South Side Sport

Feedback

UserDateNotes
JIMBO 19 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The big block the size of a coffee table is now on the floor along with some other bits. Probs about 6b+...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The big block the size of a coffee table is now on the floor along with some other bits. Probs about 6b+...
Rob Kennard 17 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did you remove the large downward pointing flake Jimbo? Did you think 6b+ is about right?
JIMBO 17 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Route to the left is "Premenstrual Princess" by Matri Hallett, needed a reclean on the first section which has left it quite different! Good moves higher up - do not grab the big staple at the belay as it is not glued in properly yet!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route to the left is "Premenstrual Princess" by Matri Hallett, needed a reclean on the first section which has left it quite different! Good moves higher up - do not grab the big staple at the belay as it is not glued in properly yet!!
JIMBO 28 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the short. Easy if you can get the obvious big undercut with a bent arm and not on tip-toes at full extension!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard for the short. Easy if you can get the obvious big undercut with a bent arm and not on tip-toes at full extension!
Ben Stokes 1 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A class route with a powerful start. Pity the bolting isn't as classy.
The Jazz Butcher 14 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route right of DG by Rich White is called Frightened of the Sun, 7b+.
Rob Kennard 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are 2 new routes hereabouts.Right of DG is Rich White's new 7b+( name?), right again is Disbelief Suspended, 7b+, right again is Matt King's project.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Glyn 11 Sep Lead O/S
with Amy UT
with Amy UT
Beefy Bert 25 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Wet jug at the bottom.
Wet jug at the bottom.
Thumbspragger 28 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
with Sofi
with Sofi
tsyrett 24 Jun, 2017 TR dog Moved round to the south face to get out the mist but the undercling on the crux felt like a bar of soap. the top was great though!
Moved round to the south face to get out the mist but the undercling on the crux felt like a bar of soap. the top was great though!
ThomasB 18 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Ross Beasley 11 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Honey badger 93 11 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden ?Jun, 2017 Lead RP
ricci.andrea86 ?Nov, 2016 Lead
Thumbspragger 28 Feb, 2016 Lead dog
AlexD 19 Feb, 2016 2nd dnf had to cheat on thuggy wet start!
with feilx
had to cheat on thuggy wet start!
with feilx
Ed Babs 8 Jul, 2015 TR dog
with AJM
with AJM
AJM 8 Jul, 2015 Lead RP At first the crux felt ridiculous, then I unleashed some tricks on it and it just felt hard. Good climbing.
with Ed Babs
At first the crux felt ridiculous, then I unleashed some tricks on it and it just felt hard. Good climbing.
with Ed Babs
e9mark 24 Jun, 2015 2nd
with andy bell
with andy bell
e9mark 20 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
professorcobra 3 May, 2015 Lead dog
td72 27 Feb, 2015 Lead dog Tried twice, first time i fell on the starting moves and pulled on the draws, second time i got the starting move and fell right on the last move, the juggy side pull near the top has also becoming worryingly loose. good burly moves at the start and delicate finish at the end though!
Tried twice, first time i fell on the starting moves and pulled on the draws, second time i got the starting move and fell right on the last move, the juggy side pull near the top has also becoming worryingly loose. good burly moves at the start and delicate finish at the end though!
Dohnny_Jawes 1 Feb, 2015 2nd dnf
Hidden 1 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner ??, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
josh Bamsey 26 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
BenL 26 Oct, 2014 Lead β Comprehensive run down of beta from Bamsey!
Comprehensive run down of beta from Bamsey!
paultaylor ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 2nd
Tom Livingstone 7 May, 2014 Lead RP 3rd or 4th go. 'Orribly greasy but nice funky moves.
3rd or 4th go. 'Orribly greasy but nice funky moves.
Alex Hallam 7 May, 2014 2nd dnf
Hidden 6 Dec, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 3 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
Luxulyan 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf
Monkey_Alan 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Couldn't make the hard pulls at the start.
Couldn't make the hard pulls at the start.
Paul Eckton 18 May, 2013 Lead dog
with steve read
with steve read
Hidden 3 Nov, 2012 Lead dog
_m.cox_ 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
westyb3 15 Apr, 2012 Lead β
with Heather Ogston
with Heather Ogston
Hidden 17 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Feb, 2012 TR RP
Hidden 15 Jan, 2012 Lead RP
rubben 15 Jan, 2012 Lead RP Power start, techy finish...great fun...hard for the grade!
Power start, techy finish...great fun...hard for the grade!
Hidden 14 Jan, 2012 Lead dog
Marcus 14 Jan, 2012 Lead RP Great route. Very cold fingers though.
Great route. Very cold fingers though.
Hidden 28 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
feilx 14 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
tobydunford 11 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
tobydunford 30 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
tobydunford 1 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
brian watson 13 Mar, 2010 TR dog no chance on the bottum moves
no chance on the bottum moves
rubben 27 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt Great climb - harder few moves at the bottom with a lovely and varied upper section - great bridging on tiny hand holds and a lovely few rests to help with the pump
Great climb - harder few moves at the bottom with a lovely and varied upper section - great bridging on tiny hand holds and a lovely few rests to help with the pump
Hidden 4 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 6 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Hidden 31 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
feeko 1 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
feilx 21 Oct, 2006 Lead dog
with James
with James
bigie bob 16 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Rob Kennard ??, 2006 -
Hidden 5 Nov, 2005 Lead RP
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set