Climbs 172
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

anyone for trad © Tommy Harris

Crag features

A sport climbing quarry with many great technical wall climbs. Sheltered from the wind and with easy access.

Approach notes

Winspit Quarry is situated 1.5km south of Worth Matravers and is reached by a pleasant stroll down a picturesque valley. Park in the main car park, which is situated on the right as you enter the village. The approach path starts down a lane below the village pond.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
It looks like there has been a substantial collapse of the sea cliffs towards the route Tetris in the Far East Area. Take extra care if heading down that way.
Felix Ottey - 12/Jun/16
The cave on quarryman’s wall at Winspit has been turned into a toilet, complete with in-situ bog roll. THIS IS NOT ON. Climbers are the main users of this part of the quarry. There is a toilet in the car park at Worth Maltravers and plenty of countryside very close by where you could bury your shit if you really can't wait.
duncan - 28/Oct/13
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I wouldn't describe it as "a superb venue" - the rock was of dubious quality and the routes were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "superb venue" - the rock is of dubious quality and the routes we did were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
A superb venue, with a good variety of routes, Quarrymans Wall is a good spot to catch the sun early in the day then move round to the east facing side later in the day to catch the sun. Post Coital Snooze has a lovely crux move. There is also lots of rocks to jump off into the sea and cool off during the summer sun. Highly recommended. Fact: The original Doctor Who was filmed there.
mammal - 02/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Quarry
2 Warm Love 6a * 297
3 The Skin Room 7a+ 6
4 Think About It 6a+ * 300
5 Things That Make You Go Hmmmm... 6c * 85
6 Restless Heart 6b+ ** 165
7 Any Old Time 6b * 183
8 Bread Knife 4a * 663
9 Post-coital Snooze 6a+ * 400
10 Iron Bar 5a * 750
11 A Different Game M10 ** 7
12 The Chestnut Mare 7b+ * 18
13 Smackdown M7+ ** 1
14 Mini Line 6a 252
15 Book 3 6c+ 16
16 The Fantastic Mr Faz 6a+ 96
17 Idiot Village 6a+ * 300
18 Autumn Leaves 5c * 384
19 Flux Capacitor 5c * 299
20 Eromon 6c 14
  West Quarry - Bouldering
22 Inner Sanctum f6B+ * 2
23 Piss Flake f4+ 3
24 Piss Mantel f5+ 3
25 Piss Crack f4+ 4
26 Inner Arete f6A+ * 4
27 Steve's Traverse f6B+ * 3
28 Layback No Flake f5+ * 4
29 Sloping Ledge f6A * 4
30 Flake and Ledge f5 * 4
31 Outer Arete f5 * 4
32 Anthill Mob f6B+ ** 2
33 Bulletproof Bomb f6B+ * 1
  Quarryman's Wall
35 Free Entre-prises 5c 131
36 The Genius of S.K. 6a 79
37 Solstice 7a+ ** 57
38 Avenging the Halsewell 7b *** 175
39 Ancient Order of Freemarblers 7a ** 182
40 Billy Winspit 7b ** 83
41 Peppercorn Rate 7a ** 261
42 Smiling Assassin 7a+ 25
43 So Naughty 5a * 719
44 Insanely Yours 6c+ * 49
45 Jargon Eater 6b+ * 233
46 Unseen Ripples of the Pebble 6a+ ** 590
47 I Thought You Had It! 7a ** 95
48 Gallows' Gore 7a ** 93
49 Red Rain 6c+ *** 305
50 Queen Anne's Men 6c ** 332
51 Exuberance 7a * 227
52 Stone Mason 6a+ ** 866
53 Hitachi and Girls 6a+ 156
54 7a+ Took Me Lung 4c 649
55 Resin Devotion 6a * 672
56 Insect Graveyard 6b * 447
57 Know What I Mean Pal 6a * 838
58 Playtime with Playtex 6c+ * 15
59 Tom's Patience 4a * 1308
60 The West Face Direct (wall of death) 6a 95
61 Tend my Daisy 6a * 167
62 Pump Me Tenderly 6c+ * 277
63 Pump Me Tenderly (Direct start) 6c+ * 73
64 Pump My Daisy 5c ** 138
65 Cold Day 6c 73
66 Anne-Marie Paid my Fee 4c 767
67 Nine Years Absence 6a * 617
68 Tailwind 6b+ ** 23
69 The Vixen Bitch from Hell 7a+ * 36
  South Face
71 Agonies of a Dying Mind 7a * 40
72 Dick Dastardly 7a+ * 21
73 Korean South Face Route 6c+ * 6
74 Lips of a Stranger 6c+ 11
75 Fragile Mind 6c+ * 27
76 Card of Hearts 7a+ * 15
77 Chrissy 6c ** 97
78 Chick Power 7c ** 11
79 Revhead's Hi-roller 7b+ ** 20
80 Hadron Collider 7a * 4
81 First Dazes of Summer 6c * 39
82 Mackerel 5a ** 680
83 Stargazy 6a+ * 253
84 Knickerless Crutches 6b+ 72
85 Premenstrual Princess 6b+ 33
86 Damn Busters 7a+ 3
87 New Dawn Fades 7c *** 1
88 Damnation Game 7a+ ** 64
89 Frightened of the Sun 7b+ * 12
90 Disbelief Suspended 7b+ ** 29
91 Disbelief Reinvented 7c ** 6
92 Disbelief right hand 7b+ 5
93 Mental Stealth Act 7c *** 1
94 Souls of Mischief 7c+ ** 15
95 The Pizza Express 7c+ ** 3
96 Lunacy Booth 7c *** 39
97 Happy Feet 7c ** 5
98 Sectioned 7b+ ** 2
99 Nosey 6a+ 34
100 Rampant Love Jugs 6b * 142
101 Plaice a Bolt 5a * 197
102 Fishy Business 5c * 223
103 Silver Bream Machine 6c * 53
104 Gorilla Tactics 6c ** 101
105 Flashheart Direct 6b ** 216
106 On the List! E2 5c 1
107 Rubics Hex VS 5a 13
108 Hot Beef Injection 6b 232
109 Birthday Treat 5c 356
110 The Bat A2 * 1
  Winspit Sea Cliffs
112 Beyond Burma VS 4b 11
113 Angkor Wat
-
HVS 4c * 1
114 Lowestoft HS 4b * 13
115 Face the Music
-
HVS 5a ** 4
116 Still Waters
-
D 3
117 Dingle Dell
-
VD 8
118 Goosebridge
-
HS 4b 10
119 Trumpton
-
VS 4c 9
120 Camberwick Green
-
VS 4c * 17
121 Narcissus
-
S 11
122 Echo Corner S 17
123 Echo Chimney VD 25
124 Echo Groove
-
S 14
125 Bread and Pickle
-
VS 4c 5
126 Flying Phoebe
-
VD 6
127 Gea
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VS 4c 3
128 Hereabouts
-
VD 4
129 Boxing Day Diet Plan
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VS 4c 4
130 ''99
-
HVS 5a 3
131 Spring Hill
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HVS 5a 2
132 Turkey Wing
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HS 4b 5
133 Saturday Stroll
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VD 5
134 Ten
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S 4a 12
135 The Magus
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HVS 5a 4
136 Barney
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HS 4b 10
137 Corner, Traverse, and Crack
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S * 16
138 Immaculate Arete
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XS 5c 1
139 First
-
S 5
140 Nani
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VD 4
141 Cephalapod
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HVS 5a * 6
142 Mark's Route
-
S 4a 10
143 Cup Final Day
-
E1 5b 1
144 East of Eden
-
E2 5c 1
145 Cosmic Swing
-
VS 4c 1
146 Sunday Joint
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HS 4b 3
147 Uncertain Smile
-
HVS 5b 2
148 Beginner's Luck
-
VD 7
149 Rich I Did A Run Out! HS 4a 2
150 Sandstorm S 4a 15
151 Ceri's Route
-
HS 5a 21
152 Tentacles
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E1 5b 4
153 Co-Co
-
HVS 5a 3
154 Bo-Bo
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VS 5a 8
155 Can't Touch This
-
HS 4b 32
156 One Move Wonder
-
HVS 5b 9
157 Forswunken
-
E1 6a  
158 Alternative Education VS 4c 6
159 Why Felix? Why?! D 3
160 Intervention
-
S 15
161 Exit Route
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D 2
162 Grace Land S * 4
163 The Other Woman HS 4a * 4
164 Christine
-
S 10
165 Grit Your Teeth
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S 4b 1
166 Dream Topping
-
HS 11
167 Emmy's Roof
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VS 6
168 Praying Mantle HS 18
169 Insectitude S 21
170 Who Needs Friends? S 23
171 mike's route
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S 4a 2
172 The Gullible Armadillo's Tail HVS 5a * 3
173 Pete's Knob HVD 8
174 China in your Hands
-
E1 5b 1
175 Tetris S 1
176 Strathcarron HS 4b 1
177 Orange Groove
-
4a 7

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