Climbs 185
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces S

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anyone for trad © Tommy Harris

Crag features

Winspit Quarry is a very pleasant and sheltered sport climbers playground with an excellent set of routes that span the grades. It is now established as a popular and well-bolted venue, and one of the best places to climb during the winter months in the south of England. The climbs pack in the moves and progress is mostly made on positive, square-cut holds and in-cuts. The quarry is divided into two halves enclosing a rocky cove, which is a popular picnic and sunbathing spot throughout the year, making this one of the better family-friendly cragging venues in the Swanage area.

Approach notes

Winspit Quarry is situated 1.5km south of Worth Matravers and is reached by a pleasant stroll down a picturesque valley. Park in the main car park, which is situated on the right as you enter the village. The approach path starts down a lane below the village pond.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
- BE AWARE - rock precariously hanging out above Mackerel, Stargazy, Knickerless Crutches and Premenstrual Princess. All these quarries have loose rock at the top but this is only just hanging in there! We regularly climb there so will update when it's fallen!
Dan Browne - 24/Sep/17
It looks like there has been a substantial collapse of the sea cliffs towards the route Tetris in the Far East Area. Take extra care if heading down that way.
Felix Ottey - 12/Jun/16
The cave on quarryman’s wall at Winspit has been turned into a toilet, complete with in-situ bog roll. THIS IS NOT ON. Climbers are the main users of this part of the quarry. There is a toilet in the car park at Worth Maltravers and plenty of countryside very close by where you could bury your shit if you really can't wait.
duncan - 28/Oct/13
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I wouldn't describe it as "a superb venue" - the rock was of dubious quality and the routes were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "superb venue" - the rock is of dubious quality and the routes we did were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
A superb venue, with a good variety of routes, Quarrymans Wall is a good spot to catch the sun early in the day then move round to the east facing side later in the day to catch the sun. Post Coital Snooze has a lovely crux move. There is also lots of rocks to jump off into the sea and cool off during the summer sun. Highly recommended. Fact: The original Doctor Who was filmed there.
mammal - 02/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Quarry
2 The Skin Room 7a+ 7
3 Warm Love 6a * 385
4 No Gear Left Behind HVD 2
5 Think About It 6a+ * 396
6 Uno Mas 6c 2
7 Things That Make You Go Hmmmm... 6c * 108
8 Restless Heart 6b+ ** 203
9 Any Old Time 6b * 211
10 Bread Knife 4a * 947
11 Post-coital Snooze 6a+ * 528
12 Iron Bar 5a * 1013
13 The Chestnut Mare 7b+ * 19
14 Mini Line 6a 392
15 Book 3 6c+ 19
16 A Different Game M10 ** 8
17 The Fantastic Mr Faz 6a+ 126
18 Idiot Village 6a+ * 382
19 Wallcreeper
-
VS 4b  
20 Autumn Leaves 5c * 531
21 Fatty Crack
-
VS 4b 2
22 Flux Capacitor 5c * 404
23 Cave Route
-
VS 4b 1
24 Eromon 6c 17
  West Quarry - Bouldering
26 Inner Sanctum f6B+ * 2
27 Piss Flake f4+ 8
28 Piss Mantel f5+ 7
29 Piss Crack f4+ 8
30 Inner ArĂȘte f6A+ * 8
31 Steve's Traverse f6B+ * 5
32 Layback No Flake f5+ * 8
33 Sloping Ledge f6A * 10
34 Flake and Ledge f5 * 9
35 Outer ArĂȘte f5 * 7
36 Anthill Mob f6B+ ** 2
37 Bulletproof Bomb f6B+ * 1
38 Win spit or swallow f4 2
  Main Quarry Sea Cliff
40 Samuel
-
S 1
41 Timothy
-
VS 5a 1
42 Split Infinitive
-
VS 4c 1
43 Failsafe
-
HVS 5b 1
  Quarryman's Wall
45 Free Entre-prises 5c 165
46 The Genius of S.K. 6a 96
47 China in your Hands
-
E1 5b 1
48 Solstice 7a+ ** 67
49 Avenging the Halsewell 7b *** 189
50 Ancient Order of Freemarblers 7a ** 214
51 Billy Winspit 7b ** 95
52 Peppercorn Rate 7a ** 315
53 Smiling Assassin 7a+ 32
54 So Naughty 5a * 864
55 Insanely Yours 6c+ * 62
56 Jargon Eater 6b+ * 275
57 Unseen Ripples of the Pebble 6a+ ** 729
58 I Thought You Had It! 7a ** 105
59 Gallows' Gore 7a ** 95
60 Red Rain 6c+ *** 376
61 Queen Anne's Men 6c ** 416
62 Exuberance 7a * 264
63 Stone Mason 6a+ ** 1095
64 Hitachi and Girls 6a+ 204
65 7a+ Took Me Lung 4c 844
66 Resin Devotion 6a * 838
67 Insect Graveyard 6b * 570
Climb name Grade
68 Know What I Mean Pal 6a * 1068
69 Playtime with Playtex 6c+ * 18
70 Tom's Patience 4a * 1736
71 The West Face Direct (Wall of Death) 6a 137
72 Tend My Daisy 6a * 231
73 Pump Me Tenderly 6c+ * 299
74 Pump Me Tenderly Direct Start 6c+ * 83
75 Pump My Daisy 5c ** 186
76 Cold Day 6c 99
77 Anne-Marie Paid my Fee 4c 1073
78 Nine Years Absence 6a * 756
79 Tailwind 6b+ ** 36
80 The Vixen Bitch from Hell 7a+ * 43
  South Face
82 Agonies of a Dying Mind 7a * 45
83 Dick Dastardly 7a+ * 24
84 Korean South Face Route 6c+ * 10
85 Lips of a Stranger 6c+ 16
86 Fragile Mind 6c+ * 29
87 Card of Hearts 7a+ * 21
88 Chrissy 6c ** 115
89 Chick Power 7c ** 9
90 Revhead's Hi-roller 7b+ ** 22
91 Hadron Collider 7a * 6
92 First Dazes of Summer 6c * 49
93 Mackerel 5a ** 857
94 Stargazy 6a+ * 333
95 Knickerless Crutches 6b+ 80
96 Premenstrual Princess 6b+ 41
97 Damn Busters 7a+ 6
98 New Dawn Fades 7c *** 1
99 Damnation Game 7a+ ** 66
100 Frightened of the Sun 7b+ * 12
101 Disbelief Suspended 7b+ ** 33
102 Disbelief Reinvented 7c ** 8
103 Disbelief Right-Hand 7b+ 6
104 Mental Stealth Act 7c *** 1
105 Souls of Mischief 7c+ ** 17
106 The Pizza Express 7c+ ** 4
107 Lunacy Booth 7c *** 61
108 Happy Feet 7c ** 5
109 Sectioned 7b+ ** 2
110 Nosey 6a+ 38
111 Rampant Love Jugs 6b * 151
  South Face - Right
113 Plaice a Bolt 5a * 255
114 Fishy Business 5c * 284
115 Silver Bream Machine 6c * 68
116 Smackdown M7+ ** 1
117 Gorilla Tactics 6c ** 128
118 Flashheart Direct 6b ** 286
119 On the List! E2 5c 1
120 Rubic's Hex VS 5a 18
121 Hot Beef Injection 6b 290
122 Birthday Treat 5c 475
123 Batman A2 * 1
124 Cracking Up
-
A3  
125 Wyoming Sheep Ranch
-
A3  
126 Welcome to Wyoming
-
A3  
127 Reticent Roof
-
A2  
128 Cave Lip
-
VS 4b  
  The Square-cut Bay
130 Pete's Knob HVD 10
131 Who Needs Friends? S 31
132 Insectitude S 30
133 Praying Mantle HS 25
134 Emmy's Roof VS 9
Climb name Grade
135 Dream Topping
-
HS 16
136 Grit Your Teeth
-
S 4b 2
137 Christine
-
S 10
138 Exit Route
-
D 4
139 The Other Woman HS 4a * 3
140 Grace Land S * 3
  The Stone Beach
142 Intervention
-
S 19
143 Why Felix? Why?! D 7
144 Alternative Education VS 4c 7
145 Forswunken
-
E1 6a 2
146 One Move Wonder
-
HVS 5b 9
147 Can't Touch This
-
HS 4b 37
148 Bo-Bo
-
VS 5a 8
149 Co-Co
-
HVS 5a 4
150 Tentacles
-
E1 5b 5
151 Ceri's Route
-
HS 5a 25
152 Sandstorm S 4a 27
153 Beginner's Luck
-
VD 17
154 Rich I Did A Run Out! HS 4a 2
155 Uncertain Smile
-
HVS 5b 2
156 Sunday Joint
-
HS 4b 3
157 Cosmic Swing
-
VS 4c 1
158 East of Eden
-
E2 5c 1
159 Cup Final Day
-
E1 5b 1
160 Mark's Route
-
S 4a 9
  Barney Area
162 Cephalapod
-
HVS 5a * 6
163 Nani
-
VD 4
164 First
-
S 5
165 Immaculate ArĂȘte
-
XS 5c 1
166 Corner, Traverse, and Crack
-
S * 14
167 Barney
-
HS 4b * 16
168 The Magus
-
HVS 5a 4
169 Ten
-
S 4a 17
170 Saturday Stroll
-
VD 14
171 Turkey Wing
-
HS 4b 7
172 Spring Hill
-
HVS 5a 2
173 ''99
-
HVS 5a 3
174 Boxing Day Diet Plan
-
VS 4c 4
  Nurses Corner
176 Hereabouts
-
VD 8
177 Gea
-
VS 4c 4
178 Flying Phoebe
-
VD 12
  The Echoes
180 Bread and Pickle
-
VS 4c 5
181 Echo Groove
-
S 25
182 Echo Chimney VD 28
183 Echo Corner S 14
184 Narcissus
-
S 11
  Sleepy Hollow
186 Camberwick Green
-
VS 4c * 18
187 Trumpton
-
VS 4c 10
188 Goosebridge
-
HS 4b 13
189 Dingle Dell
-
VD 15
190 Still Waters
-
D 13
191 Windy Corner
-
HS 4b 1
  The Hidden Arch
193 Face the Music
-
HVS 5a ** 4
  The Far East
195 Strathcarron HS 4b 1
196 Tetris S 1
197 Lowestoft HS 4b * 13
198 Angkor Wat
-
HVS 4c * 1
199 Beyond Burma VS 4b 12

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