Climbs 184
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces S

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anyone for trad © Tommy Harris

Crag features

Winspit Quarry is a very pleasant and sheltered sport climbers playground with an excellent set of routes that span the grades. It is now established as a popular and well-bolted venue, and one of the best places to climb during the winter months in the south of England. The climbs pack in the moves and progress is mostly made on positive, square-cut holds and in-cuts. The quarry is divided into two halves enclosing a rocky cove, which is a popular picnic and sunbathing spot throughout the year, making this one of the better family-friendly cragging venues in the Swanage area.

Approach notes

Winspit Quarry is situated 1.5km south of Worth Matravers and is reached by a pleasant stroll down a picturesque valley. Park in the main car park, which is situated on the right as you enter the village. The approach path starts down a lane below the village pond.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
- BE AWARE - rock precariously hanging out above Mackerel, Stargazy, Knickerless Crutches and Premenstrual Princess. All these quarries have loose rock at the top but this is only just hanging in there! We regularly climb there so will update when it's fallen!
Dan Browne - 24/Sep/17
It looks like there has been a substantial collapse of the sea cliffs towards the route Tetris in the Far East Area. Take extra care if heading down that way.
Felix Ottey - 12/Jun/16
The cave on quarryman’s wall at Winspit has been turned into a toilet, complete with in-situ bog roll. THIS IS NOT ON. Climbers are the main users of this part of the quarry. There is a toilet in the car park at Worth Maltravers and plenty of countryside very close by where you could bury your shit if you really can't wait.
duncan - 28/Oct/13
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I wouldn't describe it as "a superb venue" - the rock was of dubious quality and the routes were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "superb venue" - the rock is of dubious quality and the routes we did were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
A superb venue, with a good variety of routes, Quarrymans Wall is a good spot to catch the sun early in the day then move round to the east facing side later in the day to catch the sun. Post Coital Snooze has a lovely crux move. There is also lots of rocks to jump off into the sea and cool off during the summer sun. Highly recommended. Fact: The original Doctor Who was filmed there.
mammal - 02/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Quarry
2 The Skin Room 7a+ 7
3 Warm Love 6a * 378
4 Think About It 6a+ * 377
5 Uno Mas 6c 2
6 Things That Make You Go Hmmmm... 6c * 106
7 Restless Heart 6b+ ** 197
8 Any Old Time 6b * 205
9 Bread Knife 4a * 914
10 Post-coital Snooze 6a+ * 515
11 Iron Bar 5a * 980
12 The Chestnut Mare 7b+ * 19
13 Mini Line 6a 365
14 Book 3 6c+ 19
15 A Different Game M10 ** 8
16 The Fantastic Mr Faz 6a+ 119
17 Idiot Village 6a+ * 371
18 Wallcreeper
-
VS 4b  
19 Autumn Leaves 5c * 504
20 Fatty Crack
-
VS 4b 2
21 Flux Capacitor 5c * 392
22 Cave Route
-
VS 4b 1
23 Eromon 6c 16
24 No Gear Left Behind HVD 2
  West Quarry - Bouldering
26 Inner Sanctum f6B+ * 2
27 Piss Flake f4+ 4
28 Piss Mantel f5+ 4
29 Piss Crack f4+ 5
30 Inner ArĂȘte f6A+ * 6
31 Steve's Traverse f6B+ * 5
32 Layback No Flake f5+ * 5
33 Sloping Ledge f6A * 6
34 Flake and Ledge f5 * 5
35 Outer ArĂȘte f5 * 5
36 Anthill Mob f6B+ ** 2
37 Bulletproof Bomb f6B+ * 1
  Main Quarry Sea Cliff
39 Samuel
-
S 1
40 Timothy
-
VS 5a 1
41 Split Infinitive
-
VS 4c 1
42 Failsafe
-
HVS 5b 1
  Quarryman's Wall
44 Free Entre-prises 5c 163
45 The Genius of S.K. 6a 92
46 China in your Hands
-
E1 5b 1
47 Solstice 7a+ ** 66
48 Avenging the Halsewell 7b *** 183
49 Ancient Order of Freemarblers 7a ** 217
50 Billy Winspit 7b ** 93
51 Peppercorn Rate 7a ** 304
52 Smiling Assassin 7a+ 32
53 So Naughty 5a * 846
54 Insanely Yours 6c+ * 61
55 Jargon Eater 6b+ * 270
56 Unseen Ripples of the Pebble 6a+ ** 698
57 I Thought You Had It! 7a ** 100
58 Gallows' Gore 7a ** 95
59 Red Rain 6c+ *** 359
60 Queen Anne's Men 6c ** 398
61 Exuberance 7a * 255
62 Stone Mason 6a+ ** 1053
63 Hitachi and Girls 6a+ 195
64 7a+ Took Me Lung 4c 827
65 Resin Devotion 6a * 813
66 Insect Graveyard 6b * 545
Climb name Grade
67 Know What I Mean Pal 6a * 1020
68 Playtime with Playtex 6c+ * 18
69 Tom's Patience 4a * 1648
70 The West Face Direct (Wall of Death) 6a 129
71 Tend My Daisy 6a * 222
72 Pump Me Tenderly 6c+ * 294
73 Pump Me Tenderly (Direct Start) 6c+ * 82
74 Pump My Daisy 5c ** 179
75 Cold Day 6c 94
76 Anne-Marie Paid my Fee 4c 1005
77 Nine Years Absence 6a * 741
78 Tailwind 6b+ ** 34
79 The Vixen Bitch from Hell 7a+ * 42
  South Face
81 Agonies of a Dying Mind 7a * 41
82 Dick Dastardly 7a+ * 24
83 Korean South Face Route 6c+ * 10
84 Lips of a Stranger 6c+ 16
85 Fragile Mind 6c+ * 29
86 Card of Hearts 7a+ * 21
87 Chrissy 6c ** 108
88 Chick Power 7c ** 9
89 Revhead's Hi-roller 7b+ ** 22
90 Hadron Collider 7a * 6
91 First Dazes of Summer 6c * 45
92 Mackerel 5a ** 818
93 Stargazy 6a+ * 313
94 Knickerless Crutches 6b+ 75
95 Premenstrual Princess 6b+ 41
96 Damn Busters 7a+ 4
97 New Dawn Fades 7c *** 1
98 Damnation Game 7a+ ** 64
99 Frightened of the Sun 7b+ * 12
100 Disbelief Suspended 7b+ ** 33
101 Disbelief Reinvented 7c ** 7
102 Disbelief Right-Hand 7b+ 5
103 Mental Stealth Act 7c *** 1
104 Souls of Mischief 7c+ ** 16
105 The Pizza Express 7c+ ** 4
106 Lunacy Booth 7c *** 58
107 Happy Feet 7c ** 5
108 Sectioned 7b+ ** 2
109 Nosey 6a+ 37
110 Rampant Love Jugs 6b * 148
  South Face - Right
112 Plaice a Bolt 5a * 242
113 Fishy Business 5c * 275
114 Silver Bream Machine 6c * 68
115 Smackdown M7+ ** 1
116 Gorilla Tactics 6c ** 121
117 Flashheart Direct 6b ** 279
118 On the List! E2 5c 1
119 Rubic's Hex VS 5a 18
120 Hot Beef Injection 6b 285
121 Birthday Treat 5c 458
122 Batman A2 * 1
123 Cracking Up
-
A3  
124 Wyoming Sheep Ranch
-
A3  
125 Welcome to Wyoming
-
A3  
126 Reticent Roof
-
A2  
127 Cave Lip
-
VS 4b  
  The Square-cut Bay
129 Pete's Knob HVD 10
130 Who Needs Friends? S 30
131 Insectitude S 27
132 Praying Mantle HS 24
Climb name Grade
133 Emmy's Roof
-
VS 8
134 Dream Topping
-
HS 15
135 Grit Your Teeth
-
S 4b 1
136 Christine
-
S 10
137 Exit Route
-
D 4
138 The Other Woman HS 4a * 3
139 Grace Land S * 3
  The Stone Beach
141 Intervention
-
S 18
142 Why Felix? Why?! D 6
143 Alternative Education VS 4c 7
144 Forswunken
-
E1 6a 1
145 One Move Wonder
-
HVS 5b 9
146 Can't Touch This
-
HS 4b 34
147 Bo-Bo
-
VS 5a 8
148 Co-Co
-
HVS 5a 4
149 Tentacles
-
E1 5b 5
150 Ceri's Route
-
HS 5a 25
151 Sandstorm S 4a 26
152 Beginner's Luck
-
VD 16
153 Rich I Did A Run Out! HS 4a 2
154 Uncertain Smile
-
HVS 5b 2
155 Sunday Joint
-
HS 4b 3
156 Cosmic Swing
-
VS 4c 1
157 East of Eden
-
E2 5c 1
158 Cup Final Day
-
E1 5b 1
159 Mark's Route
-
S 4a 9
  Barney Area
161 Cephalapod
-
HVS 5a * 6
162 Nani
-
VD 4
163 First
-
S 5
164 Immaculate ArĂȘte
-
XS 5c 1
165 Corner, Traverse, and Crack
-
S * 13
166 Barney
-
HS 4b * 16
167 The Magus
-
HVS 5a 4
168 Ten
-
S 4a 16
169 Saturday Stroll
-
VD 12
170 Turkey Wing
-
HS 4b 7
171 Spring Hill
-
HVS 5a 2
172 ''99
-
HVS 5a 3
173 Boxing Day Diet Plan
-
VS 4c 4
  Nurses Corner
175 Hereabouts
-
VD 8
176 Gea
-
VS 4c 4
177 Flying Phoebe
-
VD 10
  The Echoes
179 Bread and Pickle
-
VS 4c 5
180 Echo Groove
-
S 24
181 Echo Chimney VD 27
182 Echo Corner S 14
183 Narcissus
-
S 11
  Sleepy Hollow
185 Camberwick Green
-
VS 4c * 18
186 Trumpton
-
VS 4c 10
187 Goosebridge
-
HS 4b 13
188 Dingle Dell
-
VD 11
189 Still Waters
-
D 8
190 Windy Corner
-
HS 4b  
  The Hidden Arch
192 Face the Music
-
HVS 5a ** 4
  The Far East
194 Strathcarron HS 4b 1
195 Tetris S 1
196 Lowestoft HS 4b * 13
197 Angkor Wat
-
HVS 4c * 1
198 Beyond Burma VS 4b 12

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