UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
10m.

Rockfax Description
A good but hard problem that takes on the leaning wall via some fingery moves. Shared belay. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 03/Jul/1993.

Feedback

User Date Notes
hotsteve33 10 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice sequency climbing, easy to read from below
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice sequency climbing, easy to read from below
Rob Kennard 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to flash it maybe, but an onsight without any tell-tale chalk is solid for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to flash it maybe, but an onsight without any tell-tale chalk is solid for the grade.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ryme Intrinseca

Grade: 7b ***
(Blacknor Far South)

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