UKC

180m. This is a marrow well-defined gully, recognisable by a huge chockstone near its foot and situated low down in the left wall of the Central Couloir, where the couloir is wide and open. Climb up to the chockstone and continue beneath it to emerge from a slot. Continue direct over small pitches to the top of Academy Ridge. Ice is not required, so the route is climbable in most conditions.

A.Fyffe Mar/1969

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter, Easy 3 and 4 star Scottish winter routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Steven Andrews 09/Jan -

Cool through route with plenty of space even for the taller climber. Moved together above the chock stone.

with Pete
peter.herd 09/Jan Solo

Moved together

with Steven A
1-2-3-40 09/Mar/16 AltLd

difficult getting out from top of chock stone, if not done in a while as it was full of snow.

Gawyllie 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

lots of powder and very little frozen, great day out though

with Russell Shanks
malone 14/Feb/15 AltLd
with tom shaw
JamesRoddie 16/Feb/14 Solo O/S

Very banked out, in fact the cave was blocked with snow entirely so I bypassed it to the left. Snow in the gully was mainly a bit moist with a hard crust, and some good neve on the steeper bits. Also some large (but mainly avoidable) areas of slab as well, which I should think will grown later in the day as the wind picked up.

DaveB61 22/Jan/14 AltLd
with Ken Applegate, Greg Jennings, Dean Jones
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Solo
sj87 27/Feb/13 2nd
abbeywall 23/Feb/13 AltLd
with K
mikesuth 22/Feb/13 -
with Andrew James, Laura Eunson
Captain Solo 19/Feb/13 Solo

Some ice at the back of the chockstone, pretty straightforward at the moment.

Hidden 11/Feb/13 AltLd
Ken Applegate 27/Jan/13 Lead

Day of guiding. Soft snow on approach, climb was in reasonable condition.

PAJames ??/2013 -

http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/18-02-13-sgorr-ruadh-north-west.html

Ken Applegate 08/Feb/12 Lead

Good fun on the crux (first pitch), which goes underneath a huge chockstone. Expect to rock climb a bit!

with Martin, Ed T, Ed D
BlackheathDiggs ?/Feb/12 2nd
Novice 30/Dec/11 AltLd

Lean conditions with rock hard neve in gully base. All three main rock steps lean (post box itself bypassed by gully on left, main pitch short steep and technical mixed hooks and bridging, last cave pitch technical mixed) making it hard for the grade. Probably 3 overall with some moves of tech 4 on the steep sections.

nowler 30/Dec/11 AltLd
colinthrelfall 11/Dec/11 -

in early season it has some interesting steps, and a good bit of fun in the cave.

with Archie
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
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Votes cast 7
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