150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
145m. An excellent route - pitches 1 to 3 are superb! The belays are fixed but there's nothing on the pitches so take a full rack, including some small wires. The route is accessed by scrambling up grass and rock from the gully where the Frison-Roche starts.
1) 6a+, 25m. Climb the wide crack using some good footholds which seem to appear whenever there isn't much to grab!
2) 6b, 35m. THE pitch. Depending on your relative abilities, you'll want to sandbag your mate into either seconding or leading this one. The climbing is sustained and stunning and requires the full repertoire of techniques.
3) 6a+, 25m. From the belay, make some strenuous layback moves to gain easier ground and then a terrace. The belay is to the left and is initially hard to spot. Don't walk to the wall at the back of the terrace whilst looking for the belay as there is loose rock which can be easily knocked down. It is advised to cross the terrace and then belay again before the next pitch so as to avoid your second dislodging anything onto climbers below.
4) 6a, 25m. Climb the wall above the left end of the terrace, drifting gradually left then back rightwards.
5) 5c, 35m. Easier climbing up the wall on some occasionally loose rock. Belay at the viewing platform, probably with an adoring audience of tourists! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The corner on the right side of the clearly visible black streaks. According to Piola guide book start by scrambling up next to Voie Frichon-Roche, the route starts on the same level with the first belay of Frichon-Roche, but some 10 meters to the left. After the first three pitches (the corner), walk left for a few meters on the upper ledge and belay below a crumbly looking ramp (two bolts for the belay). The route finishes up the loose ramp and cracks in two pitches, a nicer alternative would be to finish on the last pitch of Frichon-Roche.

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John McKenna 20 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch)
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
IvanD 16 Aug 2nd O/S
eduardo 14 Aug AltLd O/S Led P1,3. Pull hard on the layback on P3! Joe linked P4 & 5. Got a round of applause from sundry tourists as I topped out: "You are very brave!" Belay up and right to bring the second up P3, then move back left to belay the finish.
Led P1,3. Pull hard on the layback on P3! Joe linked P4 & 5. Got a round of applause from sundry tourists as I topped out: "You are very brave!" Belay up and right to bring the second up P3, then move back left to belay the finish.
fuzzysheep01 14 Aug AltLd O/S Superb route. Led P2 then 4-5 as one 55m pitch. Climbing consistently very good, particularly the crux pitch. Top section was.also enjoyable. Busy route today.
with eduardo
Superb route. Led P2 then 4-5 as one 55m pitch. Climbing consistently very good, particularly the crux pitch. Top section was.also enjoyable. Busy route today.
with eduardo
professorcobra 1 Aug AltLd O/S Great route, best I've done at le brevent! Added on a 6b sport pitch to gain the first pitch of Ex-Libris, I led P2 and P3 of Ex-libris then we finished up the last pitch of frison-roche. Would like to come back to try the 6b+ crack to the right!
with Robbie
Great route, best I've done at le brevent! Added on a 6b sport pitch to gain the first pitch of Ex-Libris, I led P2 and P3 of Ex-libris then we finished up the last pitch of frison-roche. Would like to come back to try the 6b+ crack to the right!
with Robbie
Hidden ?Aug AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul AltLd
Wizzy 26 Jul AltLd O/S Really good first route of the trip. First two pitches were particularly good. E2 5c. Top 2 pitches weren’t too loose
Really good first route of the trip. First two pitches were particularly good. E2 5c. Top 2 pitches weren’t too loose
Jo sumner 26 Jul 2nd
QuentinSu 22 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 17 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul AltLd
themattyshep 13 Jul AltLd O/S Best route on the Brevent, cenotaph corner but 100m!!! Steve led the Jenga at the top to an audience of Chinese people
with Steve G
Best route on the Brevent, cenotaph corner but 100m!!! Steve led the Jenga at the top to an audience of Chinese people
with Steve G
steve_gibbs 13 Jul AltLd O/S
with Matt Shepherd
with Matt Shepherd
Hidden 3 Jul -
DigitalSteak ?Jul -
JohnHartley 30 Jun Lead O/S Lead all pitches, an amazing route despite being hit by a rock...
Lead all pitches, an amazing route despite being hit by a rock...
lukas_s 21 Jun AltLd O/S The first three pitches are fantastic. Glad we came up despite the rain - all dry :)
The first three pitches are fantastic. Glad we came up despite the rain - all dry :)
Stuart Johnston 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Quality! Take at least one size 3 cam using this you can shuffle your way up the first pitch. 2 size 3s would be better. Anything smaller than a 3 and you are going to have to be very bold, to the point of downright dangerousness.
with Lara Kesterton
Quality! Take at least one size 3 cam using this you can shuffle your way up the first pitch. 2 size 3s would be better. Anything smaller than a 3 and you are going to have to be very bold, to the point of downright dangerousness.
with Lara Kesterton
Blackcountrybill 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3 then finished up Frison Roche to avoid rain.
Led pitches 1 and 3 then finished up Frison Roche to avoid rain.
James Thacker 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd Satisfactory
with Ian Hey
Satisfactory
with Ian Hey
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt
LucaC 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead p1-3. Finished up the frisson-Roche to avoid the loose rock. One of the best E2s anywhere.
with Hannah
Lead p1-3. Finished up the frisson-Roche to avoid the loose rock. One of the best E2s anywhere.
with Hannah
Hidden 19 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Seán Fortune 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lovely consistent climbing. Led pitch 1&3, then we finished up a crack about four metres right of frison (the left of two) for a variation on the variation which was also class
Lovely consistent climbing. Led pitch 1&3, then we finished up a crack about four metres right of frison (the left of two) for a variation on the variation which was also class
EoghanCun 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
Paul Collins 3 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with Eanna
with Eanna
Hidden 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd
sroelants 26 Jul, 2018 -
nathanjmasters 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
ConorWalter 9 Jul, 2018 -
with Cormac Kelly
with Cormac Kelly
Hidden 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd
tjbrumme 2 Jul, 2018 Lead β
tjbrumme 2 Jul, 2018 Lead β
chiverstom 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
ambrooker 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Tom led P1-3 of ex-libiris and I led us up the top 5c pitch of the next door route from the big ledge
Tom led P1-3 of ex-libiris and I led us up the top 5c pitch of the next door route from the big ledge
Hagen 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Theo Mossop 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Really good! I lead P1&2, Mull-Man did pitch 3 and the frison-roche finish. Pitch 1 was pretty scary without cams bigger than gold dragon....
with Mull-Man
Really good! I lead P1&2, Mull-Man did pitch 3 and the frison-roche finish. Pitch 1 was pretty scary without cams bigger than gold dragon....
with Mull-Man
James Mulhall 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route. I lead pitch 3 and the last pitch of Frison-Roche. The first pitch felt a little too unprotected for me without a blue or grey cam!
Great route. I lead pitch 3 and the last pitch of Frison-Roche. The first pitch felt a little too unprotected for me without a blue or grey cam!
Stickle Tarn 23 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S For me the crux was the third pitch, the 6a layback moves off the belay are brutal ! Took a fall, lowered a small distance back to the stance and set off again, clean. The second pitch, 6b felt fine and is well protected with small/medium nuts. Large cams for the first pitch (BD gold, blue and silver). Overall amazing corner climbing, I felt it to be E1, possibly lower end E2.
For me the crux was the third pitch, the 6a layback moves off the belay are brutal ! Took a fall, lowered a small distance back to the stance and set off again, clean. The second pitch, 6b felt fine and is well protected with small/medium nuts. Large cams for the first pitch (BD gold, blue and silver). Overall amazing corner climbing, I felt it to be E1, possibly lower end E2.
DaveThexton 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
metrorat 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S One of the best routes on this face and all the better because its trad! Good gear, great sustained, techy corner climbing and some laybacking. Fair for the grade by british standards but really about as hard as the 6as on the massif.
with Euan Maharg
One of the best routes on this face and all the better because its trad! Good gear, great sustained, techy corner climbing and some laybacking. Fair for the grade by british standards but really about as hard as the 6as on the massif.
with Euan Maharg
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Nemmie 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Shea 19 Jul, 2017 - Really cool
with freja
Really cool
with freja
torjes 13 Jul, 2017 -
davkeo 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1,2&4. Excellent Fairhead-esque corner climbing. P1-3 are brilliant as described.
P1,2&4. Excellent Fairhead-esque corner climbing. P1-3 are brilliant as described.
niallsash 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Ian Carr ?Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Martin
with Martin
seanhendo123 27 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Ground up on 3rd pitch as I slipped on initial lay back...
with Anja
Ground up on 3rd pitch as I slipped on initial lay back...
with Anja
anja.sraj 27 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
natetan 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S With Tia and Tama. Be wary for loose rock. The second pitch is dreamy climbing.
With Tia and Tama. Be wary for loose rock. The second pitch is dreamy climbing.
Hugh Irving 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd Cool climbing, felt a bit Fairhead-ish. Finished up the last corner pitch of Frison-Roche, for a complete course in corner climbing!
Cool climbing, felt a bit Fairhead-ish. Finished up the last corner pitch of Frison-Roche, for a complete course in corner climbing!
George Ponsonby 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd will be back for revenge on the brilliant 7b finish
with Rory
will be back for revenge on the brilliant 7b finish
with Rory
liamo333 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Paul Collins 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd
dan-8990 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with PF
with PF
Ben in de Bergen 3 Jul, 2016 -
Ben in de Bergen 3 Jul, 2016 -
ndraper1 28 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all the pitches bar the last(Frison-Roche finish, recommended). Started on the 6a+/6b bolted pillar below the route which is great. If you think cenotaph corner's good, this is an 80-90m version that isn't polished. 3* with great exposure. BE VERY CAREFUL ON THE UPPER LEDGES NOT TO KNOCK ROCKS DOWN.
Lead all the pitches bar the last(Frison-Roche finish, recommended). Started on the 6a+/6b bolted pillar below the route which is great. If you think cenotaph corner's good, this is an 80-90m version that isn't polished. 3* with great exposure. BE VERY CAREFUL ON THE UPPER LEDGES NOT TO KNOCK ROCKS DOWN.
walts4 ??, 2016 -
MSchobitz 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Started up the bolted 6a+ pitch below the actual route and finished up the last pitch of Voie Frison-Roche. Led P1 and P3 (crux 6b). Absolutely fantastic! Hard to beat such an amazing corner!
with Daniel
Started up the bolted 6a+ pitch below the actual route and finished up the last pitch of Voie Frison-Roche. Led P1 and P3 (crux 6b). Absolutely fantastic! Hard to beat such an amazing corner!
with Daniel
Flavio 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S My intro to Alpine climbing straight on a TD+ corner and finishing under many tourists. Very hard in places, Ben took an awkward fall just above p2.
My intro to Alpine climbing straight on a TD+ corner and finishing under many tourists. Very hard in places, Ben took an awkward fall just above p2.
ben.phillips 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
ian d f 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Damp
Damp
pearson9596 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Wet at the start and only one large cam....
with ian d f
Wet at the start and only one large cam....
with ian d f
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Outstanding route, all pitches are good but the 6b pitch is a four star pitch, very sustained but the gear is decent. Top two pitches are worth doing but run out with some loose rock. Take a full UK trad rack. About E2,5c in UK grades.
Outstanding route, all pitches are good but the 6b pitch is a four star pitch, very sustained but the gear is decent. Top two pitches are worth doing but run out with some loose rock. Take a full UK trad rack. About E2,5c in UK grades.
Hidden 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches
with Anthony Campbell
Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches
with Anthony Campbell
JuneBob 25 Aug, 2014 2nd Started raining and then snowing just as I approached the crux, I slipped first try...
with Bertrand, Alastair
Started raining and then snowing just as I approached the crux, I slipped first try...
with Bertrand, Alastair
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
Hidden 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S First three pitches in the corner are superb.
with Abs
First three pitches in the corner are superb.
with Abs
The old James turnbull ?Jul, 2014 -
with rich howells
with rich howells
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
DaveMo 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with wilbobaggins, Jan
with wilbobaggins, Jan
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
TommyMcG ?Aug, 2013 -
Alasdair Fulton 16 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog
Hidden 19 Jun, 2013 2nd dog
DigitalSteak 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf Thought we were on the Frison Roche. We weren't. Got stuck and bailed
Thought we were on the Frison Roche. We weren't. Got stuck and bailed
Hidden 4 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Andy Lagan 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
dan ely 9 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with dan
with dan
Dan Hale 9 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
Kris ?Jul, 2012 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?Sep, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 -
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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 10
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set