150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
145m. An excellent route - pitches 1 to 3 are superb! The belays are fixed but there's nothing on the pitches so take a full rack, including some small wires. The route is accessed by scrambling up grass and rock from the gully where the Frison-Roche starts.
1) 6a+, 25m. Climb the wide crack using some good footholds which seem to appear whenever there isn't much to grab!
2) 6b, 35m. THE pitch. Depending on your relative abilities, you'll want to sandbag your mate into either seconding or leading this one. The climbing is sustained and stunning and requires the full repertoire of techniques.
3) 6a+, 25m. From the belay, make some strenuous layback moves to gain easier ground and then a terrace. The belay is to the left and is initially hard to spot. Don't walk to the wall at the back of the terrace whilst looking for the belay as there is loose rock which can be easily knocked down. It is advised to cross the terrace and then belay again before the next pitch so as to avoid your second dislodging anything onto climbers below.
4) 6a, 25m. Climb the wall above the left end of the terrace, drifting gradually left then back rightwards.
5) 5c, 35m. Easier climbing up the wall on some occasionally loose rock. Belay at the viewing platform, probably with an adoring audience of tourists! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The corner on the right side of the clearly visible black streaks. According to Piola guide book start by scrambling up next to Voie Frichon-Roche, the route starts on the same level with the first belay of Frichon-Roche, but some 10 meters to the left. After the first three pitches (the corner), walk left for a few meters on the upper ledge and belay below a crumbly looking ramp (two bolts for the belay). The route finishes up the loose ramp and cracks in two pitches, a nicer alternative would be to finish on the last pitch of Frichon-Roche.

Theo Mossop 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Really good! I lead P1&2, Mull-Man did pitch 3 and the frison-roche finish. Pitch 1 was pretty scary without cams bigger than gold dragon....

with Mull-Man
James Mulhall 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Great route. I lead pitch 3 and the last pitch of Frison-Roche. The first pitch felt a little too unprotected for me without a blue or grey cam!

Stickle Tarn 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S

For me the crux was the third pitch, the 6a layback moves off the belay are brutal ! Took a fall, lowered a small distance back to the stance and set off again, clean. The second pitch, 6b felt fine and is well protected with small/medium nuts. Large cams for the first pitch (BD gold, blue and silver). Overall amazing corner climbing, I felt it to be E1, possibly lower end E2.

DaveThexton 14/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with josh
Hidden 14/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
metrorat 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Euan Maharg
Hidden 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Nemmie 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Shea 19/Jul/17 -

Really cool

with freja
davkeo 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

P1,2&4. Excellent Fairhead-esque corner climbing. P1-3 are brilliant as described.

niallsash 04/Jul/17 AltLd
seanhendo123 27/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Ground up on 3rd pitch as I slipped on initial lay back...

with Anja
anja.sraj 27/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Sean
Hidden 23/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/16 AltLd
natetan 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

With Tia and Tama. Be wary for loose rock. The second pitch is dreamy climbing.

Hugh Irving 28/Aug/16 AltLd

Cool climbing, felt a bit Fairhead-ish. Finished up the last corner pitch of Frison-Roche, for a complete course in corner climbing!

with Noah, George
George Ponsonby 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 21/Aug/16 AltLd

will be back for revenge on the brilliant 7b finish

with Rory
Paul Collins 28/Jul/16 AltLd
with Liam
dan-8990 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with PF
ndraper1 28/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead all the pitches bar the last(Frison-Roche finish, recommended). Started on the 6a+/6b bolted pillar below the route which is great. If you think cenotaph corner's good, this is an 80-90m version that isn't polished. 3* with great exposure. BE VERY CAREFUL ON THE UPPER LEDGES NOT TO KNOCK ROCKS DOWN.

walts4 ??/2016 -
MSchobitz 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Started up the bolted 6a+ pitch below the actual route and finished up the last pitch of Voie Frison-Roche. Led P1 and P3 (crux 6b). Absolutely fantastic! Hard to beat such an amazing corner!

with Daniel
Flavio 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

My intro to Alpine climbing straight on a TD+ corner and finishing under many tourists. Very hard in places, Ben took an awkward fall just above p2.

ben.phillips 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
ian d f 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S


pearson9596 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Wet at the start and only one large cam....

Hidden 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Outstanding route, all pitches are good but the 6b pitch is a four star pitch, very sustained but the gear is decent. Top two pitches are worth doing but run out with some loose rock. Take a full UK trad rack. About E2,5c in UK grades.

Hidden 21/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches

with Anthony Campbell
JuneBob 25/Aug/14 2nd

Started raining and then snowing just as I approached the crux, I slipped first try...

with Bertrand, Alastair
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

First three pitches in the corner are superb.

with Abs
The old James turnbull ?/Jul/14 -
with rich howells
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
DaveMo 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Will Tarran, Jan
tuukka 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Maija
TommyMcG ?/Aug/13 -
Alasdair Fulton 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/13 2nd dog
DigitalSteak 16/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Thought we were on the Frison Roche. We weren't. Got stuck and bailed

Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
dan ely 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with dan
Dan724 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Ely
Kris ?/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
7 users have this on their wishlist
High ED1
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