135m. A tough route offering an excellent day out. It is almost all crack climbing, from little fingers through to burly off-widths. The belays are equipped and there are some bolts, but take a full rack including plenty of slings (the pitches are long and rope drag may be an issue) as well as a single full set of cams (including large ones) and some wires. The route begins just to the right of a slightly dirty corner.
1) 7a, 30m. Avoid the corner as best you can and climb the cracked wall, past five bolts, to reach a blocky terrace.
2) 6c+, 35m. Tackle the steep finger-crack in the wall just right of the corner for the next 40m. After 20m, detour out of the corner for a few moves before returning to it.
3) 6c, 40m. This one is all about wide cracks, and some larger cams are needed. At the top, step left to a spectacular belay.
4) 6c, 30m. Climb the excellent, steep finger-crack, past two bolts, immediately to the right of the edge of the pillar. From the final belay, scramble easily up to the Brévent viewing platform. © Rockfax
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