UKC

Rockfax Description
205m. A fine outing that is easily escapable throughout. Start on a ledge 2m up and left from the foot of the buttress at a piece of white tat threaded through a drilled hole.
Approach - Descend from the Brévent down the Charles Bozon Ski Piste (which is a jeep track in summer but holds snow well into July) to the brèche between the two Brévent Crags. Continue on the wide track down, under the east face of the Brévent and branch off it when level with the foot of the route.
1) 4b, 20m. From the tat, climb the slab above then step right onto steeper, blockier ground which leads to a bolted belay on top of a large block.
2) 3c, 10m. Downclimb the 2m slab on the backside of the block (3c) and then scramble down rightwards for 7 or 8m to reach a single bolt below a wide groove.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above using excellent flakes and cracks and move left at the top onto an easier slab which leads to a large ledge with two bolts and a thread to belay off.
4) 3c, 30m. Climb the crest of the ridge above easily (3c) clipping two bolts on the way, to reach a right-slanting slab. Cross this easily but without any bolts (there are cracks if you really do want some protection and have some cams but the terrain is extremely straightforward) to a large, grassy area below a steep slab.
5) 5b, 20m. Climb the slab with a tricky section between the first and second bolts then drift right towards the top on increasingly positive holds. Belay at the top of the slab, on top of a tower, using a thread and a bolt.
Make a 20m abseil down the west face of the tower, requiring a small jump to clear a large boulder near the foot of the abseil! Walk north for 20m to reach another steep slab, with a single bolt at the foot.
6) 4c, 20m. Climb the slab on a blunt arête which is tricky in places and requires some trust in your feet. Fortunately, the handholds are massive. Step left 5m below the top and climb on easier ground to a belay.
Scramble down easily to reach the jeep track that separates the two parts of the Brévent Crags at the Brèche du Brévent. Follow the left-hand crag to its far left end to reach a blunt arête, just to the right of a large boulder.
7) 4b, 30m. Climb the arête, just to the left of the crest to reach a small and exposed ledge.
8) 4b, 25m. Continue up the arête, this time on the right of the crest, to reach a belay on a large flat rock.
Descent - Climb back up to the Brévent lift via the approach path. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).


ClimberDateStyle
rfleal 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Cillian 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Borgit 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Christine nordal
Christine 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Birgitte nordal
betathief 05/Aug/17 2nd
Wizzy 02/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Practicing moving together

with Sam
Sam McCarthy 02/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with wizzy
will484 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
scottywakefield 30/Jul/17 AltLd
Iain_L_32 30/Jul/17 AltLd
pdamann 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 4, 6. We didn’t bother with the last one but did a pitch on the crag behind instead. Seemed more natural. P3 is not a pitch!

Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd
sanguine 28/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Well protected throughout except for the 3rd/4th picth which is runout slab - fun

with Sara
Hidden 25/Jul/17 2nd dog
DerwentDiluted 22/Jul/17 Lead

Really nice climb, broken up a bit but doesn't lose much. The 4c groove pitch is really really nice, you kinda want 8 pitches of that. Last two pitches much more exposed than the rest of the route.

with Nicola Pettit
DaveThexton 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Stacey
RuthW 14/Jul/17 Lead

Last 2 pitches only

nutme 08/Jul/17 AltLd

A fast ascent after climbing route next to it. No snow left by now. There seems to be quite few variations bolted now.

with Cata
Orange 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together in places

Robbie Blease 05/Jul/17 AltLd

Moved together for the most part, Linus led 4c pitches, I led 5b

with Linus
Hidden 02/Jul/17 Lead
steve_gibbs 28/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe Ramsay
Penny32 27/Jun/17 AltLd
with Mike D
rosso 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Faye
Meganhwclark 26/Jun/17 AltLd
with Emily Hunt
faye 26/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Lucy Honychurch 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Lucy H
Hidden 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
matt_batchelor 13/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Andrew
andrew.tyrrell 13/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

A fantastic journey. Lovely climbing, with great positions. Witnessed a chopper rescue from east face of Le Brévent. Finished with a scramble up the edge of the cliffs to summit Le Brévent

with Matt
joeramsay ?/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

started raining just before the crux, so we hid in a cave until it passed. a bit broken, but still good fun

adam clarke 01/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2+3, 5, 7

with James Hulme
Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd
Jgresh 17/Aug/16 Solo

Last two pitches, 4c, 4b

paulmck 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
xphoenix0 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Luke Jones 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
BStar 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Slipped on a wet patch on the last pitch, P2 is worth 3 stars on it's own

with Rachael
Rachael88 01/Aug/16 2nd

Nice route after a day and a half of rain! Cloud cleared ever now and again so we had a view

with Adam
Charlotte Nelson 31/Jul/16 Lead
with Erin
Hidden 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd
Davidmcneill125 18/Jul/16 Lead
Hannah Embleton 18/Jul/16 -
Petarghh 18/Jul/16 Lead

With Hannah, including top two pitches this time. 2 hrs for whole route.

Petarghh 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
ChambersPP ?/Jul/16 -
Matt Harmon 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

simul climbed P1 and P3, Led P2, P4, P5

Sarah Roscoe 27/Jun/16 AltLd
Kate.orf 20/Jun/16 TR O/S
with Jamie
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ?/Nov/15 Lead
Wiseman ?/Nov/15 2nd
Rob Royle 12/Sep/15 Lead
with Steph
David Horwood 11/Sep/15 -
Hidden 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
david_brookes 29/Aug/15 AltLd
Ulgrid 29/Aug/15 AltLd
with Dave
davkeo 28/Aug/15 Solo O/S
CarlaJG 13/Aug/15 AltLd

Alt leads... lot's of groups so skipped across the pitch with the ab as the weather was coming in.

timrooker 13/Aug/15 AltLd
with Carla
EVECLIMB 08/Aug/15 2nd dnf

First 2 pitches only, then abseiled off

with Dad
gooberman-hill 07/Aug/15 -

First 2 pitches only then abbed off

with Eve Gooberman-Hill
HannahGo 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Erskine, Jordan Yates
Chuck 05/Aug/15 Lead
with Carrie Craig
Palindrome 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Chris1234H 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Andrew Harding 02/Aug/15 2nd G/U
10029759 ?/Aug/15 AltLd
hairy51 ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Colin Scotchford 30/Jul/15 AltLd
summerse 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 , 4 & 6

Hidden 17/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
JdotP 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
frotveit 11/Jul/15 AltLd
with Paul
ned_85 10/Jul/15 AltLd
danieleaston 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Ray
niallsash 26/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Solo
marr.simon 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Henry lead first, alternate to summit. Really nice climbing, shame about the walks in between most pitches.

Jordangask 14/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead P 1,3,4,6 in approach shoes, good day out!

hp8g12 14/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
khalidq 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Bailed after abseil to get the lift. Good call. Rain started promptly.

Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Helsbels_sim 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Nice set of climbs. Shame the cloud kept coming in and obscuring the view though.

Simoisfab 01/Aug/14 AltLd dog

Intro for Helen to alpine multi pitch. I lead pitch 2,4,5. Missed last 2 pitches due time. Size 2.5 friend came in very useful in pitch 5 due ridiculous second bolt run out!

Wiseman ?/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
Harri777 ?/Aug/14 AltLd
with Khalid
Richard Alderton 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Came up to do Voie Frison-Roche, but it was soaking. This route is good value. In Ellie's words 'I can see how it would be nice in the dry.

with Ellie
EllieWoods 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Went up to do frise Roche, but ended up doing this as it was rainy. Led P1, P2, P4, P5 and P6. Nice but escapable throughout and discontinuous.

with Rich
skirton 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux in a downpour

with Ben Jones
Hidden 16/Jul/14 AltLd
jon_ridley 14/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

soaking wet, un-inspirational and crap.

Gumery 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Grant
RiPomc 25/Jun/14 Lead
with Nick Gardiner
jcw ??/2014 -
Happy Haggis 26/Aug/13 -

Good climb for a dodgy weather day - escape possible at pretty much every belay.

Robbo1 26/Aug/13 -
AndrewHeaton 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Didn't have time for final two pitches

with Amber, Alice, Daniel
daniel heaton 23/Aug/13 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
prwalker 15/Aug/13 AltLd
with wupert
agagsgrot 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 1 3 and 5. Tom led the rest.

with Thomas
DaveB61 02/Aug/13 AltLd

7 pitches

MikeDowsett 02/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
mrmattwright 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Belays of unusual size (BOUS!), pretty straighfowards but lovely climbing in an epic setting. Saw someone throw themselves off Brevent in a wingsuit on pitch 1.

with Tom Goldstein
Rob Royle 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Mountain Guide, Steph
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/13 2nd
Grant Fulton 23/Jun/13 Lead
with Jojo Mills
pffft 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First climb in the Alps, cloudy day, couldn't see anything apart from the route. Still fantastic climbing! Didn't do last two pitches as came across a massive rock fall in the snow!

Graeme James Cook 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Pete Houghton ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
JimboWizbo 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great route, 4c fluting pitch felt the hardest pitch. Lead P1, P2, P4, P6 + P7. Shame about the abseil midway but it was good practice all the same

with Steve S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Claire Molloy ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Noelle
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
danfitz 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
_hs_ ??/2012 AltLd
SerenGib 01/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Fast, less than 2hrs, 5pitches (140m)

with Sam Burnham
The Bad Cough 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
John sealey 04/Aug/11 AltLd
Poco Loco 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Very good.

with R. Horler
georgenvk 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
kylieo 03/Jul/11 AltLd
with Phil
Kris ??/2011 AltLd
PHILD 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
John Pickles 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Morton
Jen B 13/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
Andy DB 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jen
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/10 AltLd
vincentvega 26/Jul/10 AltLd

Last few pitches climbed alpine style moving together.

with danny robb
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
sambosanquet101 14/Sep/09 Solo
dpe 12/Aug/09 2nd
with Smiler, Paul D
Henrik 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Josef + Joakim
SteveM 24/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tobs
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
martin one 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with dave knight
aliem ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Tom Taylor
eldre070 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Good steep longish route. Thought the abseil down to reach the penultimate pitch would let it down but the students enjoyed that part.

with 2 students
Hidden 05/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hamfunk 03/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Guided multi-pitch sport

with Dad
BazVee 24/Jun/07 AltLd
with Peter & Barry H
co1ps ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Jill Stewart
paul__in_sheffield ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set