UKC

240m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
215m. A fun and varied route which has a bit of everything - slabs, walls, cracks and corners all feature, plus a fairly puzzling little move on pitch 5.
Approach - Descend from the Brévent down the Charles Bozon Ski Piste (which is a jeep track in summer but holds snow well into July) to the brèche between the two Brévent Crags. Continue on the wide track down, under the east face of the Brévent and branch off it when level with the foot of the route.
1) 6a, 30m. The route begins at the toe of the buttress, which can either be climbed directly (5c) or on flakes and small crimps (6a) on the right-hand side. Both options meet after 15m and lead to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the slab and groove above before stepping right and following the arête in an excellent position to a belay beneath a chimney.
3) 4c, 15m. Go straight up the slab then move left into the deep chimney. Walk through this where it levels out and turn right to belay on a single bolt underneath a steep corner.
4) 5b, 15m. Climb the corner (easier than it looks) on excellent holds, to a single bolt belay which can be backed up with a sling on a spike. It is possible to walk off from here to avoid pitch 5.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb up and right across ledges to reach the foot of a steep, red wall with a corner on the left. Climb the corner and then make a steep traverse leftwards until beneath a wide crack. Climb the crack with difficulty and continue on the slab above. Follow the easy groove on the right to reach a sling belay on the ridge crest.
A 5m traverse (walk) on the west side of the ridge leads to a bolted belay and a 20m abseil. From the foot of this, scramble up and rightwards for 200m to reach the foot of the second gendarme.
6) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab and then make a brilliant technical traverse left to reach the arête. Follow this to a small stance.
7) 4c, 30m. Continue up the arête, before moving right and following a vague groove to a belay on top of the gendarme.
Walk west for 30m to reach the top of the couloir which splits the two gendarmes. Scramble down this to reach the foot of the final pitch. Another option is to walk to the top of the last gendarme then abseil in (35m).
8) 5b, 35m. Climb the final pitch, initially on flakes and then via steep but helpful cracks. A fantastic pitch to finish on.
Descent - Climb back up to the Brévent lift via the approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular climb on 3 separate buttresses:
1st:5a (5c option), 5a, 5a, 5b, optional 6b pitch
2nd:5b, 5a
3rd:5b

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

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User Date Notes
Olivermorrell 22 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade... Final pitch is a nice change in style. Recommend finishing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy for the grade... Final pitch is a nice change in style. Recommend finishing!
A Longleat Boulderer 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun. Ignore the neigh-sayers! Did the 6b pitch 5 variation up the arête. Felt soft.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun. Ignore the neigh-sayers! Did the 6b pitch 5 variation up the arête. Felt soft.
GOS 15 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crag climbs in chamonix (2005) has additional info: p1 left start is 4c. P3 alternative is to bridge up chimney near p4 belay to summit small pinnacle and ab off to p4 belay as 5a variation. P5 can go direct up arete crack at 6b. Missing hanger
Show beta
βeta: Crag climbs in chamonix (2005) has additional info: p1 left start is 4c. P3 alternative is to bridge up chimney near p4 belay to summit small pinnacle and ab off to p4 belay as 5a variation. P5 can go direct up arete crack at 6b. Missing hanger

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Route of Interest
Arête du Diable Traverse

Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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