Rockfax Description
165m. A fantastic route which keeps on coming right until the end.
Approach - From the Brévent, descend past Crakoukass and stay on the jeep track until level with the top of the Jumeaux and cross the grassy slopes on a small path to reach the top of Catyoucha Man. Abseil down two pitches of Catyoucha Man and then make two abseils down Bodinosaure to reach steep grass (a section of which is protected by a fixed rope). This in turn leads down to the foot of the route. It is possible to avoid the steep grass by making a third abseil just above the top of pitch 1 of Bodinosaure.
1) 6a, 20m. Follow the technical and featured slab, drifting leftwards at the top.
2) 6a+, 20m. Move back right and climb the delicate and superb slab.
3) 5c, 15m. The difficulties ease ever so slightly up a thin finger-crack.
4) 5b, 20m. Finish off the slab and then continue up ledges, with the bolting becoming slightly sparser as you go.
Walk 25m uphill across grass to reach the pitch 4. In case of bad weather it is possible to walk off rightwards from here, past the foot of Bodinosaure and onto grassy slopes below the approach path.
5) 6a, 35m. The slab above looks slightly broken and grassy but the pitch manages to stick to good rock all the way. Some of the toughest moves come near the end so keep concentrating!
6) 6a, 30m. Follow the groove above with constant interest and varied climbing to belay on the first access abseil point. Probably the best pitch of the route!
Descent - It is easier to descend to Planpraz than to walk back up to the BrĂ©vent. Reverse the approach to the jeep track and follow this down. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Bristol_Quornstar 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Great lead by Tab on the 6a+ pitch. Next time I'll be racking my protractor as P1 & P2 didn't look like slabs to me...

Green_t 30/Aug Lead O/S

Slabs? I don't think so! Nevertheless an interesting route with an adventurous feel. Brilliant location!

Lakesben 23/Aug AltLd O/S

Excellent route that is worth seeking out. Most pitches are really sustained at their grade making interesting climbing. Don't listen to rockfax's bullshit about walking down from the Brevent. Save yourself 14 euros, get out at Planpraz and walk uphill, it's a 20 minute walk and much easier to locate since you can see it all the way.

with Fran
watson.b 16/Aug AltLd
Adamski1986 16/Aug AltLd O/S
Tony Myers 16/Aug AltLd O/S
with Ben Watson, Adam Gregg
Hidden 02/Aug Lead
Siongethinhill 28/Jul -
Siongethinhill 28/Jul -
NickJH 27/Jul AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden 22/Jul 2nd dnf
Hidden 20/Jul AltLd
ClimberJimmyB 20/Jul AltLd
Rob_Morris1996 12/Jul 2nd O/S

Did a mixture of this and Bodinosaure, can't remember what!

with Linus, themattyshep
themattyshep 12/Jul Lead O/S

Last two 6a Pitches

with Rob M
Orange 12/Jul 2nd

With Shep and Rob from the uni of Stafford, rope stuck during abseil, climbed middle pitches of Bodinosaure, including 6b face, then topped out with the final pitches of Catyoucha man

seanhendo123 12/Jun AltLd O/S
with Anja
anja.sraj 12/Jun AltLd dog

Just a bit of help

with Sean
Adam_42 19/Apr AltLd

Had a bit of an epic on this one. Still some snow about so we had a fairly awkward traverse into the half-height ledge from where we abbed the line. Took a tumble seconding the crux pitch due to not being able to feel my hands. Got to the ledge where the sun made a brief appearance and a couple of slices of pizza convinced us it was worth a bash at the top two pitches. Last pitch would be right at home at HVS on any UK mountain crag. Proper strugglefest. Topped out in the snow before abbing to the base of the route and after a brief tussle with the rope on the final pull, scrambled back down to the trail having missed last lift. Type 2 fun for sure.

DaveThexton 19/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
will_lake 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

I lead the 6a+ pitch. Final pitch had some great moves

with Chris Petrauskas
Jgresh 19/Aug/16 AltLd

Mike- P4-5b. Me- P1-6a, P2- 6a+, P3- 5c, P5- 6a, P6- 6a. Finding the start of the route was the hardest part!

with Michael Macdonald
mchardski 15/Aug/16 AltLd

Walked to the bottom of pitch 5 along a ledge with fixed rope, then abbed from there, but started on wrong route somehow. Actually we did the 1st 2 pitches of the route to the right, 6a, 5b ish. Then we got back on route somewhere around pitch 3 via me doing a short upwards traverse left using trad gear we had taken. Sion ended up with hardest leads of the day which were 1st and last pitches although i got one 6a pitch it was fairly mellow. 6a+ pitch was pne of the ones we missed by error.

with Sion Gethin Hill
Hidden 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
staceyjg 26/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Impending storm, so started at pitch 3, I led p3&4 together, Chris led p5&6

Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Siongethinhill 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with alan mchardy
walts4 ??/2016 -
clmacdonald 08/Sep/15 AltLd
tskelhon 08/Sep/15 AltLd
Martin Haworth 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route, 6a,6a+,5c,5c,6a,6a!. Last pitch felt like the crux to me.

JimboWizbo 14/Jun/15 Lead dog

Either having an off day or this is a real pig of a 6a. Be wary of the massive rope-gobbling crack while abseiling. We only did the last 2 pitches, very cloudy, poor visibility.

with Beth
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
masa-alpin 08/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Abseiled off in the afternoon and did the last 2 pitches - Kyle lead the first and I did the second.

with Kyle
Mr. K 01/Aug/14 AltLd

Abbed in and climbing the last two pitches for an afternoon hit. Good fun all round!

Graeme Gilchrist 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with tim de veere green
ndraper1 03/Jul/14 Lead

top 3 pitches after start of bodinosaure final pitch has everything, chimney, flakes & cracks : )

Hidden 25/Jun/14 AltLd dnf
Pete Houghton ?/Jun/14 AltLd
jcw ??/2014 -
Cowflinger ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Lewis
SteveM 10/Jul/13 AltLd

Grabbbed a draw on pitch 2 and took a fall on the last pitch too. Topped out just as the thunderstorm broke!

with Tobs
tmawer 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Only last 2 pitches as failed to find our way to the start!

with Maz
MazElden 23/Jun/13 2nd

Only did top half as could not find the start

maria85 23/Jul/12 AltLd
with Jules
Coops_13 19/Jul/12 AltLd dog

Slipped off first pitch on second with rucksack

thetradlad 19/Jul/12 AltLd
mcgovern ?/Jun/12 AltLd

Led piches 3, 4 and 6. Lat pitch is pretty cool

with K-Man
Kris ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Julli 06/Jul/11 AltLd dog

It was about to rain so we decided to pull from gear to speed up climbing in first two pitches. Then the weather cleared and we could continue normally.

with Noora S.
Rob N ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Dave Rumney 05/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
paul__in_sheffield ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
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Voting
High TD+
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Votes cast 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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DNF
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