50m.

Rockfax Description
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow this rightwards past small wires and a bolt to gain the vertical crack on the right. Follow this past another bolt, to a position about 3m below a third bolt. Place a wire below this and traverse left for 3m past a small cam-slot to gain the base of a steep flake/groove. Climb this on good holds to a triangular ledge, with a bolt on the right. Move right past the bolt and head up past another bolt, crux, to gain a diagonal crack above. Head more-or-less direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route with pretty good gear compared to other E5s. All of the hardest moves are protected by fixed gear.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, slate E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 28 May Lead G/U
Felix la shat 17 May Lead O/S
George_Surf 7 May Lead O/S Really good and varied. Mainly safe but I found the groove above the first traverse run out (6-8m, it’s not that soft touch). Above is the thin crux but it’s not too fierce, and the climbing eases slightly with spaced but good kit. Final hard and commuting move reaching the top! Good rests, thought provoking line, slab/cracks/jugs/thin bits/safe bits/a runout; it’s got it all. And it’s long! ***
Really good and varied. Mainly safe but I found the groove above the first traverse run out (6-8m, it’s not that soft touch). Above is the thin crux but it’s not too fierce, and the climbing eases slightly with spaced but good kit. Final hard and commuting move reaching the top! Good rests, thought provoking line, slab/cracks/jugs/thin bits/safe bits/a runout; it’s got it all. And it’s long! ***
Dan Hale 7 May Lead O/S Excellent
with Rachel Pearce, George_Surf
Excellent
with Rachel Pearce, George_Surf
Lewis Perrin Williams 5 May Lead O/S The name suits this route very well, done on Will's birthday, happy 39th Will.
with Oscar Peplow
The name suits this route very well, done on Will's birthday, happy 39th Will.
with Oscar Peplow
Hidden 21 Apr 2nd O/S
NinaR 23 Mar 2nd dog
Hidden 20 Mar Lead O/S
Archie ball ?? -
andyinglis 11 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Rapid abort once the sun came out!
with Murdoch Jamieson
Rapid abort once the sun came out!
with Murdoch Jamieson
markalmack 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Long cold painful belay as duncan was being a pussy. Route was piss too. Dunno what he was fucking about at. Nice tho.
Long cold painful belay as duncan was being a pussy. Route was piss too. Dunno what he was fucking about at. Nice tho.
Duncan Campbell 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Great stuff. Felt a bit hungover so wasn’t my most forceful of leads. Found the move to the 1st bolt a little bold. Brilliant sequence moving left! Had to clean and dry a few of the footholds as I went. Almack would never have got up this if I hadn’t gone first cos he is shit! My first slate E5 having not climbed in the slate for probably 6-7 years!? Used to be my stomping ground as a student but tired of it before I was capable of E5s. Keen for more!
Great stuff. Felt a bit hungover so wasn’t my most forceful of leads. Found the move to the 1st bolt a little bold. Brilliant sequence moving left! Had to clean and dry a few of the footholds as I went. Almack would never have got up this if I hadn’t gone first cos he is shit! My first slate E5 having not climbed in the slate for probably 6-7 years!? Used to be my stomping ground as a student but tired of it before I was capable of E5s. Keen for more!
edwardwoodward 2 Sep, 2017 Lead 2 falls at the first bolt, then clean. Thought the crux was the second traverse. Agree with the comment about it being a good candidate for your first E5.
2 falls at the first bolt, then clean. Thought the crux was the second traverse. Agree with the comment about it being a good candidate for your first E5.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Emily C 24 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
jonleighton 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Emily C
with Emily C
Rich Kirby 22 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S A few scary moments ... what a fantastic journey.
with Greg Cunningham
A few scary moments ... what a fantastic journey.
with Greg Cunningham
Greg Cunningham 22 Jun, 2017 2nd
andyinglis 6 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Lobbed after heading up left from 2/3's height instead of traversing right, should have memorised the description better! Pity, really enjoyed it to there!
Lobbed after heading up left from 2/3's height instead of traversing right, should have memorised the description better! Pity, really enjoyed it to there!
Hidden 6 Jun, 2017 Lead β
JendeHoxar 21 Jan, 2017 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 21 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S California dreaming... on such a winters daaaay! Half a day between barely managing to get out of bed with a screaming neck pain to topping this out. Anything is possible with enough painkillers and layers. First climbed outdoors exactly 3 years ago and on slate!
California dreaming... on such a winters daaaay! Half a day between barely managing to get out of bed with a screaming neck pain to topping this out. Anything is possible with enough painkillers and layers. First climbed outdoors exactly 3 years ago and on slate!
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 2nd rpt
james.slater 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Over two hours on the lead, a fully involving route which keeps you focused! The climbing is varied and just brilliant. Found the two traverses to be the hardest parts with a hard lower section too.
Over two hours on the lead, a fully involving route which keeps you focused! The climbing is varied and just brilliant. Found the two traverses to be the hardest parts with a hard lower section too.
Jonny Nick 29 Aug, 2016 2nd
griffithpatrick 5 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Started off grumpy and got scared before the first bolt. After that felt better. The whole thing took 2.5 hours haha oh dear I was faffing a lot. Sorry if you got cold Jacob! the final big holds were wet which was disappointing. First e5-really happy to get this done.
Started off grumpy and got scared before the first bolt. After that felt better. The whole thing took 2.5 hours haha oh dear I was faffing a lot. Sorry if you got cold Jacob! the final big holds were wet which was disappointing. First e5-really happy to get this done.
jacob shieldhouse hadley 5 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S fair play pad
fair play pad
jacob shieldhouse hadley 11 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S sick!
with sol ammer
sick!
with sol ammer
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 27 May, 2015 2nd dog Hard, stood on 1st bolt and fell off going left at 3rd. Cold and windy
Hard, stood on 1st bolt and fell off going left at 3rd. Cold and windy
pete johnson 27 May, 2015 Lead Just beat the rain! Fell by 1st bolt. Felt like the hardest part of the climb to me. Fantastic route.
Just beat the rain! Fell by 1st bolt. Felt like the hardest part of the climb to me. Fantastic route.
Hidden 16 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd
Ally Smith 28 Sep, 2014 2nd
Hidden 31 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Alexis
with Alexis
Eduardo Martinez 27 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
shed_hed 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Great route! First E5! Cherry wanted to do the top pitch of Central Sadness but I wasn't sure about leading the first pitch, so got on this instead. Felt pretty steady with good gear where it's needed and plenty of rests. Bolts protect the hard moves and it takes a surprising amount of gear in between (though it can be a little fiddly) - had to get more gear passed up a few times! That being said there is still the potential for some big (but safe) falls if you come off the easier moves. There were a couple of wobbly holds, some of which are quite large, but nothing felt loose. Well worth doing and probably a good first E5, especially if you like slabs.
Great route! First E5! Cherry wanted to do the top pitch of Central Sadness but I wasn't sure about leading the first pitch, so got on this instead. Felt pretty steady with good gear where it's needed and plenty of rests. Bolts protect the hard moves and it takes a surprising amount of gear in between (though it can be a little fiddly) - had to get more gear passed up a few times! That being said there is still the potential for some big (but safe) falls if you come off the easier moves. There were a couple of wobbly holds, some of which are quite large, but nothing felt loose. Well worth doing and probably a good first E5, especially if you like slabs.
Hidden 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Ed morris 15 May, 2014 Lead O/S Superb climbing with sustained interest. Would be a good first E5.
with stefan
Superb climbing with sustained interest. Would be a good first E5.
with stefan
AndrewJamesCherry ??, 2014 2nd Seconded Darren in the dark with a headtorch! Cool climbing that seems well protected in its hardest sections.
Seconded Darren in the dark with a headtorch! Cool climbing that seems well protected in its hardest sections.
Ewan Russell 27 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S amazing route! Secretly glad I didn't win the toss to lead it.
with gwen
amazing route! Secretly glad I didn't win the toss to lead it.
with gwen
Ed Booth 28 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Was in a rush and Strayed onto the big surr in the middle cause I hadn't looked at topo properly. Got back on track and thought it was a good pitch.
Was in a rush and Strayed onto the big surr in the middle cause I hadn't looked at topo properly. Got back on track and thought it was a good pitch.
tim newton 16 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Lenny
with Lenny
charlietorrance 27 Jun, 2012 2nd dog really cool climbing fell off the foot traverse found that really hard. the rest is ok.
with callum
really cool climbing fell off the foot traverse found that really hard. the rest is ok.
with callum
Hidden 12 May, 2012 2nd dog
willoates 15 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S great consistent climbing, felt quite a bit easier than poetry pink but with more climbing.
with Iona, Lotta
great consistent climbing, felt quite a bit easier than poetry pink but with more climbing.
with Iona, Lotta
JulesV 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Alex Mason 19 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Wicked route, slightly more run-out than the description above suggests. A little bit of suspect rock, but on the hole a great route with brilliant flowing climbing between good rests. Sweet.
Wicked route, slightly more run-out than the description above suggests. A little bit of suspect rock, but on the hole a great route with brilliant flowing climbing between good rests. Sweet.
david morse 25 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S An awesome route up an immaculate face. First E5
with callum
An awesome route up an immaculate face. First E5
with callum
Luke Brooks 11 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
barni 30 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S could not clip 3rd bolt
could not clip 3rd bolt
Toby Dunn 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 6 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Dringo ??, 2003 -
goi.ashmore 6 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
chrisdavies ?Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 26 May, 1991 2nd O/S
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
RockPhoenix 14 Oct, 1990 2nd
Billg ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
Steve Walker ??, 1990 Lead
Mike Owen 5 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Rick Newcombe
with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 29 Apr, 1988 Lead
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Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
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Ground Up
Not Set