Rockfax Description
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow this rightwards past small wires and a bolt to gain the vertical crack on the right. Follow this past another bolt, to a position about 3m below a third bolt. Place a wire below this and traverse left for 3m past a small cam-slot to gain the base of a steep flake/groove. Climb this on good holds to a triangular ledge, with a bolt on the right. Move right past the bolt and head up past another bolt, crux, to gain a diagonal crack above. Head more-or-less direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route with pretty good gear compared to other E5s. All of the hardest moves are protected by fixed gear.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, slate E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 31/Jul/17 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Emily C 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Jon
jonleighton 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 22/Jun/17 Lead O/S

A few scary moments ... what a fantastic journey.

with Greg Cunningham
Greg Cunningham 22/Jun/17 2nd
andyinglis 06/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Lobbed after heading up left from 2/3's height instead of traversing right, should have memorised the description better! Pity, really enjoyed it to there!

Hidden 06/Jun/17 Lead β
JendeHoxar 21/Jan/17 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 21/Jan/17 Lead O/S

California dreaming... on such a winters daaaay! Half a day between barely managing to get out of bed with a screaming neck pain to topping this out. Anything is possible with enough painkillers and layers. First E5 this year.. in January exactly 3 years after my first trip outdoors!

Hidden 10/Sep/16 2nd rpt
james.slater 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Over two hours on the lead, a fully involving route which keeps you focused! The climbing is varied and just brilliant. Found the two traverses to be the hardest parts with a hard lower section too.

Jonny Nick 29/Aug/16 2nd
griffithpatrick 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Started off grumpy and got scared before the first bolt. After that felt better. The whole thing took 2.5 hours haha oh dear I was faffing a lot. Sorry if you got cold Jacob! the final big holds were wet which was disappointing. First e5-really happy to get this done.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 05/Apr/16 2nd O/S

fair play pad

with paddy
jacob shieldhouse hadley 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S


with sol ammer
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 2nd dog
pete johnson 27/May/15 Lead

Just beat the rain! Fell by 1st bolt. Felt like the hardest part of the climb to me. Fantastic route.

Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Ally Smith 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Alexis
Eduardo Martinez 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great route! First E5! Cherry wanted to do the top pitch of Central Sadness but I wasn't sure about leading the first pitch, so got on this instead. Felt pretty steady with good gear where it's needed and plenty of rests. Bolts protect the hard moves and it takes a surprising amount of gear in between (though it can be a little fiddly) - had to get more gear passed up a few times! That being said there is still the potential for some big (but safe) falls if you come off the easier moves. There were a couple of wobbly holds, some of which are quite large, but nothing felt loose. Well worth doing and probably a good first E5, especially if you like slabs.

Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Superb climbing with sustained interest. Would be a good first E5.

with stefan
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2014 2nd

Seconded Darren in the dark with a headtorch! Cool climbing that seems well protected in its hardest sections.

Ewan Russell 27/Oct/13 2nd O/S

amazing route! Secretly glad I didn't win the toss to lead it.

with gwen
Ed Booth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Was in a rush and Strayed onto the big surr in the middle cause I hadn't looked at topo properly. Got back on track and thought it was a good pitch.

with Will N
tim newton 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with leon
charlietorrance 27/Jun/12 2nd dog

really cool climbing fell off the foot traverse found that really hard. the rest is ok.

with callum
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd dog
willoates 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S

great consistent climbing, felt quite a bit easier than poetry pink but with more climbing.

with Iona, Lotta
JulesV 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Mason 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Wicked route, slightly more run-out than the description above suggests. A little bit of suspect rock, but on the hole a great route with brilliant flowing climbing between good rests. Sweet.

with Mikey G
david morse 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S

An awesome route up an immaculate face. First E5

with callum
Luke Brooks 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S
barni 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

could not clip 3rd bolt

Toby Dunn 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 06/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
chrisdavies ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 26/May/91 2nd O/S
with Bob Smith
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Steve Walker ??/1990 Lead
Mike Owen 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 29/Apr/88 Lead
31 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set