UKC

Rockfax Description
150m. A good, fully bolted route with a variety of climbing, from slabs to chimneys.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard. Climb the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Climb the scree to the foot of the route.
1) 5b, 25m. An enjoyable slab to warm up. Traverse 5m right from the belay to reach the foot of the next pitch.
2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting gradually rightwards all the way.
3) 6a+, 35m. More slab climbing, passing some thin moves in the middle of the pitch.
4) 6a+, 40m. Climb flakes and then step right into the chimney above and follow this to a belay on the right. Originally given 6b, this pitch is thought of as the crux but many teams feel it is easier than the slabs below. It is, provided you can bridge well.
5) 6a, 20m. A few final steep moves lead to a slabby finish and a belay just below the Crochues west ridge.
Descent - Descend the Crochues Traverse via combination of downclimbing and abseiling. It is also possible to abseil the route. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Lakesben 30/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

An excellent little route which appears in the new Chamonix rockfax. It almost certainly hasn't been climbed by the writer since the grades and pitch lengths aren't accurate and it certainly deserves at least two stars. Could easily be graded 6a overall and there are plenty of 5c pitches in the Chamonix valley mich harder than anything on this route. A much better abseil is shown in the Pools guide which is a bit further down the ridge from the final belay. On 60m ropes 2 abseils will get you down .

with Alison
seanhendo123 03/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/16 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
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