UKC

Rockfax Description
500m, 3 - 5 hours. One of the most popular routes in the area. The scrambling is excellent throughout and the rock quality is consistently good until the initial part of the descent, but this is low-angled and brief. Other than the pegs on the first pitch and bolts on the abseil, the route is unequipped so you'll need a rack, albeit a fairly small one.
1) 4a. Climb the deep-cut chimney (4a, 35m) passing a couple of pegs on the way to a ledge with plenty of good spikes for belays. There are some loose rocks around the belay spikes, so be careful not to knock anything down.
2) Go up and rightwards (passing to the right of the big boulder on the skyline) and follow easy, grassy terrain to the crest of the Crochues west ridge. You should join the ridge near the bolt belay at the end of routes 2 and 3, although you can join it just about anywhere. Follow the ridge easily for 70m (you can walk below it on the left if it is busy or wet) until the ridge drops away steeply and you are faced with a short descent down to a tower.
3) 3b. Descend towards the tower on the north side of the ridge for 5m, before coming around to the south side of the tower and making an easy but exposed traverse across the South Face. A 10m abseil back onto the north side allows you to pass the next, smaller tower on its north side, before climbing a short wall and slab (3b) to regain the ridge crest. The slab section can be bypassed on the south side of the ridge by following a grassy path.
4) Continue easily along the crest with interest until the summit. From the summit descend 30m back down the ascent route before turning east and following the ridge easily to the (marginally higher) north summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Big Routes , Alpine Progression , Alps 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
AlexD-L 15 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Large snow pitches in and out of route, definitely wise to take an axe and good boots.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large snow pitches in and out of route, definitely wise to take an axe and good boots.
FerClimbs 16 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 6-8 hours from lift to lift. The route itself is a lot shorter. I wish UKC/Rockfax made it clearer the timings of the routes in Chamonix.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 6-8 hours from lift to lift. The route itself is a lot shorter. I wish UKC/Rockfax made it clearer the timings of the routes in Chamonix.

Logged Ascents

553 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 138 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
Votes cast 25
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3+
Mid 3+
Low 3+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dômes de Miage Traverse

Grade: PD+ ***
(Domes des Miages)

Loading Notifications...