Rockfax Description
The wide chimney crack in the nose of the buttress leads past a bulge to a gritty ledge (possible stance). Step left into the jamming crack in the exposed arete and climb this until the crack on the right can be reached. Continue up this then finish up the wall on the left. An excellent route at the grade. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Handsforfeet 26/Aug Lead
with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 26/Aug Lead

A fine route

with Handsforfeet, Karin
Hidden 29/Jul 2nd O/S
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 21/Jun 2nd O/S
Dónal Murray 20/Jun 2nd
with Joe Barlow, Alfie Maun
Alfie Maun 20/Jun Lead O/S
with Joe Barlow, dmurray654
scotty88 18/Jun Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd O/S
Manc88 17/Jun 2nd O/S


Hidden 16/Jun Lead O/S
PeteWilson 16/Jun 2nd O/S

fantastic route! easily 3 stars!! just very fun, and varied climbing, one of the best Severes I have done

Hidden 26/May 2nd
mrphilipoldham 25/May Lead O/S

Best severe ever? Quite possibly!

devious wally 25/May 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 21/May Solo O/S
glaramara 09/Oct/16 Lead

green and rainy but still good.

with james
olddirtydoggy 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great warmup route for the higher grades, Nice direct finish.

with LAJJ
TrevorCruse 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Clive Dean
Clive Dean 11/Sep/16 2nd
GermanAlex 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

As a warmup, delivers what the 3 stars promise.

with Arno
Peakpdr 31/Jul/16 -
paulsross 23/Jul/16 Lead
with Phil Biglands
chrisbrown2050 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First S lead

LovelyMrTom 23/Jul/16 2nd
Oliver Houston 19/Jul/16 Lead
with john hayes
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Keith Swainson 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with MTL
Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd β
peachos 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Warm up, really good fun. Deserves 3 stars as in the book.

with Graeme
Andyjharper 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Iza
Compo 06/Sep/15 Lead
with Kaveh
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Mr Fuller 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Amazing! Surely the best Severe on grit?

with Rich Pooley
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
stacey73 04/Jul/15 2nd
with Emma
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
leethebee 10/Oct/14 AltLd β
with Disco
el disco 10/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green, Chris CMC
Matt Harmon 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
amccann 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Possibly the best severe on grit. A lovely climb.

grrrrrrrh 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing in every way!

with Jon Gill
jon_gill1 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Geoff Hannis
georgenvk 27/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Becks87
atom 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Excellent Romp on Grit

Becks87 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Duncan 88 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 26/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 -
Hardcore Pat 24/Jul/14 Solo O/S
David_Gledson 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
Somerset swede basher 23/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Mark Collins 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Collins
dangmtb 21/Jun/14 2nd
j.buckley87 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
saxonzulu 18/May/14 Lead
adie84 ??/2014 -
MDowson 26/Aug/13 Lead
with sam webb
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
stevo smith 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Britton
Anne Gumbley 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank
sopaz 13/Jul/13 Lead
drysori 13/Jul/13 Lead
Sidekick 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
kasha_gregson 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kasha
georgenvk 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Derek Furze 09/Jul/13 Lead
MoWalker3 06/Jul/13 -
with chrissy
chrissy 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
bencole ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Dad
dangmtb 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really great climb. Nice positions with lots of pro...

jimbobted 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with dangmtb
joe.91 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Great route, fun.

Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead
Climbster 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 06/Jun/13 2nd β
with Matt
Hidden ??/2013 Solo
John Nuttall 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Clive
timofy 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 TR O/S
Palindrome ?/May/12 2nd
Sam Cooke 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Helen.Burgess 01/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
SteveHi 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Sam Cooke
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson ??/2012 -
kwaidy 23/Oct/11 Lead

school boyish ;)

with sting
sting 22/Oct/11 2nd
with kwaidy
markhammonds 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Thought this was a particularly good climb: great holds; great gear; great positions; great location.

Chris Ellis 02/Oct/11 Lead
with Martin Veale, Louise Pellett
The Bad Cough 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Reedymc 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jack Whiteley 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd
Chris Manasseh 06/Aug/11 2nd
with Charlie Johnson
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead
Mr Sparkle 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 24/Jul/11 2nd
Tomber 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely fantastic route - just wish I'd lead it!

with Vicki Cotton, Stuart Hurworth
Stuart Hurworth 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route, plenty of gear, brilliant moves on steep rock. Would like to second it to get the full feeling of continuous movement over the rock! Don't fancy a solo though!!

with Vicki Cotton, Tom Kimber
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

wow, what a severe!

with Richard Lines
Barry D 21/Jun/11 2nd
with Liz & Dave
kitkat78 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Kat
JRae 21/May/11 2nd

About as good as it gets!

with Molly G
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd O/S
Peter Holder 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Aimee Wariner
Rob Beever ?/May/11 -
howlingbaboon 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Best grit severe?

with Scott
Scott Anderson 25/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
garethb 10/Apr/11 Lead
with cheque
cragtyke 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
manwithacam 14/Aug/10 Lead

A lovely sunny day and we had the crag to ourselves until joined by 2 more. This is a great severe, maybe the best I've climbed.

with Sarah
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Oceanic 03/Jul/10 -
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead
Barry D 27/Jun/10 Lead
with Trish
augustus trout 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Al Metelko
Yanis Nayu 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Awesome route at the grade - once the chimney has been despatched!

with Phil Lucas
tanssop 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Wayne
Richie Rich 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tony H
Tony Holdsworth 22/May/10 2nd O/S

Nice route

with Rich Cutsforth
Pilch 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Graham
asmith37 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
matthewjames 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Lisaaa 23/Aug/09 Lead
with Mike Watson
Reaver2k 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Enjoyed almost as much as first time! Awesome route at severe.

Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anna Hammond, Pete aka Dad
embob 22/Aug/09 Lead

Hmmm, didn't lead this too well - no points for style this time! Excellent route at the grade.

with Alex
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/09 2nd O/S
George Ormerod 09/Aug/09 Lead β
with Buffy
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
@ndy 31/May/09 Lead
RCrockford 31/May/09 2nd
with Andy C
dashitboarder 31/May/09 2nd
BenJacobs 31/May/09 Lead O/S

great route, really good fun

with Josh
ChuckstarUK 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nicola and Rob
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 TR O/S
alun1111 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tanssop 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Absolute quality climb

with Andy
max_chan 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lou
Goody 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Checkley
joe larner 08/Jun/08 2nd
gazfellows 07/May/08 Lead
with shaun d
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
GrahamPlant 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jamie Armatage
DerwentDiluted 15/Apr/07 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic! First real feel of exposure whilst climbing and never thought it would hit me so much! Felt a little bit wobbley getting out of the chimney but no difficult moves, got further up and felt very exposed. However, the climbing is amazing quality, layback to get onto the crack properly and off you go. I absolutely laced it with gear due being quite terrified. Moved around into the Phoenix Climb's wide crack, asked for directions and went back into the crack, this is where the really beautiful climbing is! Finally onto the exposed upper wall on jugs and up and over! Well protected, sustained easy moves, and great belay up top, overlooking the moor and resiviour, great place to be and hope to be up there when leading VS to do a few of the other classics. Do it next time you're there, no excuses.

with Neil, Matt
hartke 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with reaver2k
Hidden 14/Apr/07 2nd
Tom Phillips 05/Aug/06 2nd
with mick
Hidden 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S
colin milton 28/Jul/06 2nd
with horace
simonw1 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Allan Watson
spacey 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with jo macey
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 17/Jun/06 2nd rpt
with Phil Ashton
dan gibson 16/Jun/06 2nd
with helen gibson
A Crook 04/Jun/06 2nd
with Duncan Hassell
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Blod 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Great climb.

with Henry
Gus 03/Jun/05 Solo
with sam whittaker
Hidden 17/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Trobbo 05/Jul/04 2nd
with gary
cem 16/May/04 2nd
with Natasha Geere
mike fenwick ?/Sep/03 Solo
erica 22/Aug/03 2nd
with Chris and Malcolm
malc 14/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with CH
Hidden 09/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Simon Caldwell 09/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 28/Jun/03 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Hidden 24/Jun/01 Solo
Mark Davies PK ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Laura
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
stokienomad ?/Jul/98 Lead
fellgazelle ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Alan Haigh
FrankW 16/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden ??/1996 -
Roget 27/Jul/91 Solo O/S
with chris jones
Rog Wilko ?/May/89 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Andy Say 29/May/87 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/May/84 Lead
Pete Pozman ?/Nov/82 Lead O/S
with Mike Allen, Garry Rushworth
babymoac 25/Apr/82 2nd
with Ben NUMC
nigehughes ?/Aug/81 Lead
with Gary Kerr
Rob Davies ?/Jun/81 Lead
with Mike Papworth
mikej 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Bob Lewis, Mike Mason
Tom V ??/1980 -
Sean Kelly ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Dave Musgrove 02/Nov/69 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Hidden 10/Oct/65 Solo
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