18m.

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and sustained pitch though with good protection throughout. High in the grade. Climb the steep finger-cracks to the small ledge on Pisa. Finish up the easier cracks above. The lower crack is hard for for the strong and the central crack is hard for the weak. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling late 1960s 1967

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Fiend 6 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade. Puritans will be reassured to note that enjoyment plays no role in this route whatsoever.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade. Puritans will be reassured to note that enjoyment plays no role in this route whatsoever.
MeMeMe 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it. I thought the bottom crack was the crux, I must of half climbed up it then climbed down it about half a dozen time before actually commiting to the moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it. I thought the bottom crack was the crux, I must of half climbed up it then climbed down it about half a dozen time before actually commiting to the moves.
Jon Greengrass 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Sam Ash 30 Aug 2nd dog Thought this was pretty desperate!
Thought this was pretty desperate!
Teappleby 30 Aug Lead O/S Would be E2 5c at millstone. Harder than Piccadilly circus, Knightsbridge or regents street. Amazing though.
Would be E2 5c at millstone. Harder than Piccadilly circus, Knightsbridge or regents street. Amazing though.
JendeHoxar 27 Jun 2nd O/S
Patrick Hill 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Scottish Nick
with Scottish Nick
PeteWilson 31 Aug, 2018 2nd flash pump! ok route, nothing like as good as pisa superdirect and the other classics though
with John R
flash pump! ok route, nothing like as good as pisa superdirect and the other classics though
with John R
JBO 29 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
Vincej 3 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Nevil
with Nevil
DubyaJamesDubya 8 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
with Ian Smith
with Ian Smith
Mike Todd 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Chris Wright
with Chris Wright
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 Lead
hfotheri 7 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with simon
with simon
rowland penty 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
George Frisby 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Both thin cracks were hard, having to do some snatchy climbing. struggled at the top of the second crack on the mantle.
Both thin cracks were hard, having to do some snatchy climbing. struggled at the top of the second crack on the mantle.
MatthewK 24 Jun, 2018 TR dnf
with Matt Clark
with Matt Clark
gravy 24 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Tough! next level trying required to get up this. 2nd'd after Matt K's ascent of the VS next - given the rope run it made a lot of sense
Tough! next level trying required to get up this. 2nd'd after Matt K's ascent of the VS next - given the rope run it made a lot of sense
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 -
Alex@home 15 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Frank the Husky 27 May, 2018 -
with Mike Hutton, Youth
with Mike Hutton, Youth
BTphonehome 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Superb, strenuous and safe. Another good, direct line. Being lanky helped on the initial section.
with tmawer
Superb, strenuous and safe. Another good, direct line. Being lanky helped on the initial section.
with tmawer
tmawer 19 May, 2018 2nd dog Lower crack was tough.
Lower crack was tough.
kingholmesy ??, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andy S
with Andy S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 21 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Neil Colquhoun
with Neil Colquhoun
eb202 17 Jun, 2017 2nd dog The crack was thin, greasy and helpful. A few reachy moves.
with Mike505
The crack was thin, greasy and helpful. A few reachy moves.
with Mike505
Mike505 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with eb202
with eb202
Cake 16 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Oooh! That second crux! Best E1 of the year so far.
with Steve, LakesWinter
Oooh! That second crux! Best E1 of the year so far.
with Steve, LakesWinter
Hidden 16 Jun, 2017 2nd
chrishedgehog 26 May, 2017 Lead dog
with Kieran Myles
with Kieran Myles
Stroppy 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S Felt hard, E1 5c IMO. The cracks were quite dirty, especially the top one, which might have contributed to the feeling of insecurity.
Felt hard, E1 5c IMO. The cracks were quite dirty, especially the top one, which might have contributed to the feeling of insecurity.
slowmotion 14 May, 2017 2nd dog
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Andy Peak 1 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
with cheque
with cheque
Andy Peak 1 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
with cheque
with cheque
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
g1m147 6 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Mick.
with Mick.
paulsross 23 Jul, 2016 2nd dnf Brutal finger jamming - got to the top but only by pulling on gear and taking frequent rests.
with Phil Biglands
Brutal finger jamming - got to the top but only by pulling on gear and taking frequent rests.
with Phil Biglands
Keith Swainson 17 Jul, 2016 2nd dog well beyond me in my current state, well done Matt, good but tough for the grade!?
with MTL
well beyond me in my current state, well done Matt, good but tough for the grade!?
with MTL
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 20 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Ben Silvestre
with Ben Silvestre
Peakpdr ??, 2016 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 2nd
Julie 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
with scbooth
with scbooth
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
Kirill 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
with cem
with cem
Kirill 11 Jul, 2015 2nd β
with cem
with cem
cem 11 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt Not really a proper trad lead as I was clipping the gear Kirill had placed on his attempt.
with Kirill
Not really a proper trad lead as I was clipping the gear Kirill had placed on his attempt.
with Kirill
keith leonard ??, 2015 2nd
Hidden ??, 2015 -
pete1993 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 6 Aug, 2014 2nd Loved taking the stuck gear out and still climbing it clean!!
with Andrew Deckon
Loved taking the stuck gear out and still climbing it clean!!
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 6 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Cool.
Cool.
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Al Doig
with Al Doig
PTatts 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
with Will Harris
Robb Bert 22 Jun, 2014 -
j.buckley87 20 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Hard if your finger jamming isn't up to scratch. Felt more than 1 grade harder than Superdirect so 5c.
Hard if your finger jamming isn't up to scratch. Felt more than 1 grade harder than Superdirect so 5c.
sishaw 13 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Hard to judge on the second but this felt harder than Regents Street and I would def give it 5c and maybe E2. Would be in a hurry to go back and lead it.
with Stig
Hard to judge on the second but this felt harder than Regents Street and I would def give it 5c and maybe E2. Would be in a hurry to go back and lead it.
with Stig
Stig 13 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S E1 5c for me.
with sishaw
E1 5c for me.
with sishaw
sann1458 ?Jun, 2014 Lead A series of boulder problems - some great moves on finger locks.
with DrGeoff
A series of boulder problems - some great moves on finger locks.
with DrGeoff
dannyboy83 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
funsized 17 May, 2014 2nd
climbergg 10 Aug, 2013 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Anne Fairbank 20 Jul, 2013 TR dnf
with Ray Sharples, markfairbank
with Ray Sharples, markfairbank
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17 Jul, 2013 2nd Great pitch, felt tough getting out of the top crack but overall I think E1 5b is correct.
Great pitch, felt tough getting out of the top crack but overall I think E1 5b is correct.
Phill Mitch 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with bleggs
with bleggs
Wil Treasure 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 2nd
Fragmod 6 Jul, 2013 Lead
Mr Messy 26 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with mike
with mike
Bill Lawrence 24 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Found this nails for E1! Felt E2 for effort anyway at a push...
with tommy martin
Found this nails for E1! Felt E2 for effort anyway at a push...
with tommy martin
pie_eater_pete 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
bwestwood 18 Jun, 2013 Lead
MikeLeeds 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Easy peasy
with Bruce Hayward
Easy peasy
with Bruce Hayward
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Jake Young 2 Jun, 2013 2nd dog to get nut out ;)
with liam
to get nut out ;)
with liam
Si dH 2 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Somehow contrived to fall off the first crack first time around and got annoyed with myself. Easy enough when I taught myself to finger jam properly.
with Neil Furniss
Somehow contrived to fall off the first crack first time around and got annoyed with myself. Easy enough when I taught myself to finger jam properly.
with Neil Furniss
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
alasdair19 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
chrisbussell 29 May, 2012 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
with Tim O'Neill
Brown 26 May, 2012 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
tsjx 26 May, 2012 2nd
with Neil
with Neil
Peakpdr 29 Sep, 2011 2nd dnf Bloody hard first crack easy enough , didnt have the strength for the second crack. was climbing crap that day. no change there lol
Bloody hard first crack easy enough , didnt have the strength for the second crack. was climbing crap that day. no change there lol
OffshoreAndy ?Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with UKC Paul
with UKC Paul
Rob84 31 Jul, 2011 2nd dnf Very hard cruxes (for me anyway!)
with Flash, Andy F
Very hard cruxes (for me anyway!)
with Flash, Andy F
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 25 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Found the second crack hardest... Hadn't climbed for a week and felt stressed on it, but it's essentially a couple of boulder problems!
Found the second crack hardest... Hadn't climbed for a week and felt stressed on it, but it's essentially a couple of boulder problems!
Mr Sparkle 24 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Nice route with 3 cruxes. Seemed E1 5c on the second, plenty of gear and easy to place. Cracking route!
Nice route with 3 cruxes. Seemed E1 5c on the second, plenty of gear and easy to place. Cracking route!
Mike_Hayes 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
JRae 21 May, 2011 Lead dog Nails, but ace!
Nails, but ace!
Reaver2k 21 May, 2011 2nd
with JRae
with JRae
Dave Gilling 4 May, 2011 2nd
with Chris Parson
with Chris Parson
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 16 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Good climbing (probably worth 3 stars?), though nails for E1, only just got it, as all my finer locks were pants on the 2nd crack. Clearly 5c too as per the new rockfax.
Good climbing (probably worth 3 stars?), though nails for E1, only just got it, as all my finer locks were pants on the 2nd crack. Clearly 5c too as per the new rockfax.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
chrisallan 27 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
theotherpetehill 27 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Pretty nails for E1
Pretty nails for E1
liamoloughlin 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Probably worth E2 5c and three stars. Some really nice moves.
Probably worth E2 5c and three stars. Some really nice moves.
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead
Tez29 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ram MkiV, Ivan
with Ram MkiV, Ivan
Tony Holdsworth 22 May, 2010 Lead dnf Very warm and humid - just slimed off the finger locks.
with Rich Cutsforth
Very warm and humid - just slimed off the finger locks.
with Rich Cutsforth
Hidden 22 May, 2010 2nd
JulesV 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Really nice sustained climbing.
with Shauna Cunningham
Really nice sustained climbing.
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2009 2nd
Hidden 30 May, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden 26 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Tony Little 21 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dan
with Dan
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 7 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
John Kettle 11 Aug, 2007 -
Hidden 15 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2006 Lead
Tom Phillips 5 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Mick B
with Mick B
dan gibson 16 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Hidden 9 Jul, 2005 Lead
Gus 3 Jun, 2005 Lead
with sam whittaker
with sam whittaker
MeMeMe ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
steveb2006 5 Sep, 2004 Lead
with Paul Ramsden
with Paul Ramsden
cem 16 May, 2004 Lead dog
with Rod Strachan
with Rod Strachan
Hidden 2 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
steveb2006 13 Jul, 2003 2nd
with Roland Smith
with Roland Smith
lithos 10 Jul, 2003 2nd
andybirtwistle 10 Jul, 2003 Lead
with lithos
with lithos
DubyaJamesDubya 15 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S Thuggy and strenuous throughout.
with Martin Flint
Thuggy and strenuous throughout.
with Martin Flint
Hidden ?Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
steveb2006 24 Jun, 2001 Lead
with Pete Carter
with Pete Carter
SR1970 ?Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 28 Sep, 1997 -
with MT
with MT
jcw ?Jun, 1997 -
with Martin Harris
with Martin Harris
Mick King 9 Jun, 1996 Lead dog 1 rest on the gear
with Simon Walsh
1 rest on the gear
with Simon Walsh
D Tempest 30 Jul, 1995 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 8 May, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead O/S
steveb2006 10 Jul, 1994 Lead
with Tony Marson (Masher)
with Tony Marson (Masher)
charlesmfrench 6 Jun, 1993 Lead rpt
with Andy Wingfield
with Andy Wingfield
NickJH ?May, 1993 2nd
with AGrieve, N Hancock
with AGrieve, N Hancock
Hidden ?Jun, 1991 Lead
Roget 9 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with colin
with colin
uphillnow ??, 1984 2nd since led
with john stanger
since led
with john stanger
Hidden 20 Jul, 1982 2nd
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set