20m.

Rockfax Description
A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this (hard) to a ledge on the arete. A large Friend might be found of use hereabouts. Make difficult moves into a cave (often dirty) and then easier - at least for the tall - moves out of it. The short may have to avoid this last section on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960s FFA. John Allen 1975 1965

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
steveb2006 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
Chris Shorter 15 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alex@home 15 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Most punterish mistake ever. Got to good hold on arete but hadn't checked line. Above the ledge was disgustingly luminescent and looked unlikely so tried to go up to right. Didn't get very far. Tried on top rope and didn't get very far. Looked in book and realised was trying the E6 next door. Oh well...
with The Doctor
Most punterish mistake ever. Got to good hold on arete but hadn't checked line. Above the ledge was disgustingly luminescent and looked unlikely so tried to go up to right. Didn't get very far. Tried on top rope and didn't get very far. Looked in book and realised was trying the E6 next door. Oh well...
with The Doctor
Mike505 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Lost the onsight but stayed on the ropes to work the route a little, eventually sussed the moves through the thin crack (climbing it on the wrong side). Found the top pretty straight forward once the gear had been arranged. Hopefully I'll be back soon to get it clean.
Lost the onsight but stayed on the ropes to work the route a little, eventually sussed the moves through the thin crack (climbing it on the wrong side). Found the top pretty straight forward once the gear had been arranged. Hopefully I'll be back soon to get it clean.
Dave Turnbull, BMC 31 May, 2017 2nd rpt Midgies
with Tim Raffle
Midgies
with Tim Raffle
Tim M 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Brown 26 May, 2012 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
Tez29 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S Felt hard.
with Ram MkiV, Ivan
Felt hard.
with Ram MkiV, Ivan
dominic lee 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with mike waters
with mike waters
Hidden 7 Aug, 2005 Lead
Gus 3 Jun, 2005 Lead
with sam whittaker
with sam whittaker
steveb2006 5 Sep, 2004 Lead
with Paul Ramsden
with Paul Ramsden
Hidden 2 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 31 May, 2003 Lead O/S Martin chose not to follow so abbed to clean.
Martin chose not to follow so abbed to clean.
Mark Riley ?Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Pete Oates
with Pete Oates
Hidden 5 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 7 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
Neil McA 19 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with simon crossley, pete barrass
with simon crossley, pete barrass
NickJH ?Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
ste_d 15 Jul, 1994 Lead dog 1 fall
1 fall
steveb2006 10 Jul, 1994 Lead Masher wants a long rest - he gets some while I slowly work my way up this. Sustained with a tricky crux (place large cam round to left. Great route. Abb for gear
with Tony Marson (Masher)
Masher wants a long rest - he gets some while I slowly work my way up this. Sustained with a tricky crux (place large cam round to left. Great route. Abb for gear
with Tony Marson (Masher)
Hidden ?Jun, 1991 Lead
charlesmfrench 10 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1981 AltLd
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set