38m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb which follows an absorbing line up the buttress. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Trend diagonally up left then direct to the main break. Move up a steep crack above to the next break then step back right before finishing up a well-positioned groove. Solitary stake belay a long way back. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman 1966

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 7 Jun Show βeta
βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough.
Richard 261 11 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alan James - UKC and UKH 1 Jun Lead
with Paul Dearden
with Paul Dearden
gazfellows 25 May Lead Brilliant route but the crux move is definitely high 5b AND make sure you're in a group as you will need them for the belay! No anchors no stakes ANYWHERE!!
Brilliant route but the crux move is definitely high 5b AND make sure you're in a group as you will need them for the belay! No anchors no stakes ANYWHERE!!
Andy Waterhouse 25 May 2nd O/S Warning: there is NO anchor at the top. Had to make an anchor using 3 mates
Warning: there is NO anchor at the top. Had to make an anchor using 3 mates
Hidden 6 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
Luke90 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Went direct through the upper overlap as shown in latest BMC guide. Very tough move. Easily 5b, possibly 5c. Didn't have many suitable nuts left for the belay and the rock seemed a little suspect anyway. Found one stake way off to the side and improvised a surprisingly bombproof cairn!
Went direct through the upper overlap as shown in latest BMC guide. Very tough move. Easily 5b, possibly 5c. Didn't have many suitable nuts left for the belay and the rock seemed a little suspect anyway. Found one stake way off to the side and improvised a surprisingly bombproof cairn!
Col Kingshott 27 Jun, 2018 2nd No way is this 5a. 5b min, more like 5c.
No way is this 5a. 5b min, more like 5c.
martinbettridge06 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Seems to be some confusion over the correct line, we took the second bulge direct which is deffo harder than 5a. A stiff 5b at least.
Seems to be some confusion over the correct line, we took the second bulge direct which is deffo harder than 5a. A stiff 5b at least.
Matt2046 21 May, 2018 2nd dnf Was either off route or this is nails
with Becky
Was either off route or this is nails
with Becky
Becky 21 May, 2018 Lead dnf Thought we were off route! Need to complete!
Thought we were off route! Need to complete!
Droyd 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S Traversed over to Coral Seas at the crux (as quite a lot of others seemed to have done) as the crack was dirty and sandy and the move seemed much harder than 5a. Traversed over to the lower off at the top, which seems a much better approach than topping out.
with Jimmy
Traversed over to Coral Seas at the crux (as quite a lot of others seemed to have done) as the crack was dirty and sandy and the move seemed much harder than 5a. Traversed over to the lower off at the top, which seems a much better approach than topping out.
with Jimmy
The Reaper 25 May, 2017 2nd O/S Hard moves through the second bulge required some neat fingerlock trickery and careful footwork. Technically (tough 5b) quite a bit harder than Coral Seas. No stake at the top so Ollie belayed me from a heap of manure 20 m back from the edge
Hard moves through the second bulge required some neat fingerlock trickery and careful footwork. Technically (tough 5b) quite a bit harder than Coral Seas. No stake at the top so Ollie belayed me from a heap of manure 20 m back from the edge
olllie26 25 May, 2017 Lead dog
David Kay 23 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Got up to the juggy flake and found the moves to get past this slimy and rather perplexing. It was easier to move slightly right and do the crux of Coral Seas then move back left. I think if the muddy/grassy clumps were removed from the crack higher up then the conditions for this part of the route would be improved. Also, the stake is a long way back as stated in the guidebook but also a long way off to the side. Make sure you're climbing with a partner who doesn't fall off much.
with Catherine Elliot
Got up to the juggy flake and found the moves to get past this slimy and rather perplexing. It was easier to move slightly right and do the crux of Coral Seas then move back left. I think if the muddy/grassy clumps were removed from the crack higher up then the conditions for this part of the route would be improved. Also, the stake is a long way back as stated in the guidebook but also a long way off to the side. Make sure you're climbing with a partner who doesn't fall off much.
with Catherine Elliot
jimbonfire 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Ardo 14 May, 2016 Lead Tried to follow BMC line, but found the bulge harder than 5a, so traversed right to Coral Seas to overcome the bulge and back left to finish the very loose groove. Belay stake a long way back, so 50s not long enough!
with sopaz
Tried to follow BMC line, but found the bulge harder than 5a, so traversed right to Coral Seas to overcome the bulge and back left to finish the very loose groove. Belay stake a long way back, so 50s not long enough!
with sopaz
sopaz 14 May, 2016 2nd
with Ardo
with Ardo
caradoc 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Excellent route. Two tricky sections through the bulges. Similar in difficulty, the first bulging crack might be the crux. Well protected throughout although slightly run out after the hard moves. No belay stake.
with nick yapp
Excellent route. Two tricky sections through the bulges. Similar in difficulty, the first bulging crack might be the crux. Well protected throughout although slightly run out after the hard moves. No belay stake.
with nick yapp
the power 30 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
admackie 30 Aug, 2015 Lead found the crux tough and the gear not so good
found the crux tough and the gear not so good
buxtoncoffeelover 5 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf Fell off dirty overhanging crack - not quite sure how/why. Gear (excellent thread) held. Broke wrist on impact with slab 5m down. I'll be back!
with Jacob
Fell off dirty overhanging crack - not quite sure how/why. Gear (excellent thread) held. Broke wrist on impact with slab 5m down. I'll be back!
with Jacob
nickcanute ??, 2015 Lead
TobyA 5 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf Fell some way off the crux. Followed the Rockfax line closely and what I think is the crux seemed really hard for 5a. The crux of Coral Sea felt much easier.
with TonyB
Fell some way off the crux. Followed the Rockfax line closely and what I think is the crux seemed really hard for 5a. The crux of Coral Sea felt much easier.
with TonyB
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 2nd
Darron 17 Jul, 2014 -
Peakphil 16 May, 2014 Lead O/S Went up and down crux due to very grassy overgrown section on good holds, then traversed round to complete route.
with Nick
Went up and down crux due to very grassy overgrown section on good holds, then traversed round to complete route.
with Nick
OffshoreAndy ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S The line and description! has changed significantly in the recent rockfax update indicating the crack immediately to the left of coral seas. Unless I really missed something this is very well protected but contains a move significantly harder than 5a. Still needs clarifying as this way has no 'step right'
The line and description! has changed significantly in the recent rockfax update indicating the crack immediately to the left of coral seas. Unless I really missed something this is very well protected but contains a move significantly harder than 5a. Still needs clarifying as this way has no 'step right'
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 2nd dnf
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 2nd
Jonathan Hall 2 Jun, 2013 2nd
with RM199
with RM199
RM199 2 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
ndippie ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt Back on only a slightly warmer evening!! Some confusion over the correct line between the BMC 2004 guide and Northern Limestone, Climbed the Rockfax line which looked more interesting but possibly easier. Still very good climbing and well worth its 2 stars whether this is the correct was or not. Awaiting Rockfax update latter this year...
with John
Back on only a slightly warmer evening!! Some confusion over the correct line between the BMC 2004 guide and Northern Limestone, Climbed the Rockfax line which looked more interesting but possibly easier. Still very good climbing and well worth its 2 stars whether this is the correct was or not. Awaiting Rockfax update latter this year...
with John
Hidden 12 Jun, 2011 -
Jim Slater 12 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Gambit 11 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with barney1
with barney1
sideswiper ?May, 2011 2nd β James lead I seconded onsite with a mod to the route about half way up instead of traving left round a big buldge then trav back right james decided to just go straight up over the buldge making it more like an E1 the group agreed on :)
James lead I seconded onsite with a mod to the route about half way up instead of traving left round a big buldge then trav back right james decided to just go straight up over the buldge making it more like an E1 the group agreed on :)
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 Lead
cragtyke 9 Apr, 2011 Lead
with john g
with john g
Phill Mitch 27 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt
with bleggs
with bleggs
smudge 25 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Wobbly block on slab gave me a heart attack as I was running it out since it felt pretty straightforward... that'll teach me.
with djp1
Wobbly block on slab gave me a heart attack as I was running it out since it felt pretty straightforward... that'll teach me.
with djp1
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
monkey1 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Lead first part including crux, crossed on to 6a route on the right and clipped on! (first HVS so was mega pumped and out of bottle) shouldnt get the tick really. First route to do on next visit
Lead first part including crux, crossed on to 6a route on the right and clipped on! (first HVS so was mega pumped and out of bottle) shouldnt get the tick really. First route to do on next visit
jamesgodwin64 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S a few things 1. loved it! 2. crux is at the bottom part 3. belay off coral sea's belay bolts!
a few things 1. loved it! 2. crux is at the bottom part 3. belay off coral sea's belay bolts!
Graeme Hammond 10 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Got too cold belaying and never really warmed up to think about the climbing too much. Felt like December not JUNE, must go back on a warm evening. Being trad has probably saved it from a lot of traffic and polish. Take care with the large loose flake at the top of the slab
with Andy Jobling
Got too cold belaying and never really warmed up to think about the climbing too much. Felt like December not JUNE, must go back on a warm evening. Being trad has probably saved it from a lot of traffic and polish. Take care with the large loose flake at the top of the slab
with Andy Jobling
lrandall 6 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Really enjoyable route. Followed the topo in RockFax's Northern Limestone, which felt very soft for the grade (VS 5a at a push, but more like VS 4c). Chatting to Gary Gibson it seems the original route took a more direct line, which certainly looks more sustained. Well worth the stars though.
with Alex
Really enjoyable route. Followed the topo in RockFax's Northern Limestone, which felt very soft for the grade (VS 5a at a push, but more like VS 4c). Chatting to Gary Gibson it seems the original route took a more direct line, which certainly looks more sustained. Well worth the stars though.
with Alex
igneouscarl 12 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with Tom Stahl
with Tom Stahl
keith leonard ??, 2009 Lead
cem 6 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill, Ketu
with Mark O'Neill, Ketu
Si dH 30 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S The description is wrong - you dont go up the groove from the upper break but up a crack just over to the left (the BMC guide is also wrong, suggesting another groove right next to Coral Seas). The crux is definitely the move up fro mthe to of the diagonal traverse, up said crack. The rest, including the first bulging rack, is never more than tech 4c with good gear. There is now no stake. However, there are several nut placements at the to pof the route - not brilliant but good enough combined with a secure stance.
with Neil Furniss
The description is wrong - you dont go up the groove from the upper break but up a crack just over to the left (the BMC guide is also wrong, suggesting another groove right next to Coral Seas). The crux is definitely the move up fro mthe to of the diagonal traverse, up said crack. The rest, including the first bulging rack, is never more than tech 4c with good gear. There is now no stake. However, there are several nut placements at the to pof the route - not brilliant but good enough combined with a secure stance.
with Neil Furniss
Different Steve 25 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
with Guy Reid
riddle 14 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Good climb, some very large boulders move with alarming affect! Not so nice in the wind, save this crag for a calm sunny day.
with Kate Landells
Good climb, some very large boulders move with alarming affect! Not so nice in the wind, save this crag for a calm sunny day.
with Kate Landells
bella_d 5 Jun, 2008 Lead dog
with Katie
with Katie
steveb2006 5 May, 2008 2nd Paul leads
with Paul Ramsden, Mick F
Paul leads
with Paul Ramsden, Mick F
thefuturesmiles ?Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Richard 261 11 Aug, 2007 Lead Liked it a lot even though it wanders about. But... there's only one belay point at the top. It's an old stake a long way away and NOTHING else.
with Graham
Liked it a lot even though it wanders about. But... there's only one belay point at the top. It's an old stake a long way away and NOTHING else.
with Graham
Martin Haworth ?Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Richard
with Richard
Sankey 14 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S Great meandering route, toughest at the first bulging crack, and a bit technical for a few moves on the left hand side.
with Reuben
Great meandering route, toughest at the first bulging crack, and a bit technical for a few moves on the left hand side.
with Reuben
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 13 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
Stone Muppet ??, 2006 -
Sam and will 14 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + WIll Nash
with Anthony Bennett + WIll Nash
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Roget 5 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
babymoac 12 Jun, 1981 Lead
with MTW
with MTW
15 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set