Rockfax Description
A fine climb which follows an absorbing line up the buttress. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Trend diagonally up left then direct to the main break. Move up a steep crack above to the next break then step back right before finishing up a well-positioned groove. Solitary stake belay a long way back. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman 1966

Droyd 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Traversed over to Coral Seas at the crux (as quite a lot of others seemed to have done) as the crack was dirty and sandy and the move seemed much harder than 5a. Traversed over to the lower off at the top, which seems a much better approach than topping out.

with Jimmy
The Reaper 25/May/17 2nd O/S

Hard moves through the second bulge required some neat fingerlock trickery and careful footwork. Technically (tough 5b) quite a bit harder than Coral Seas. No stake at the top so Ollie belayed me from a heap of manure 20 m back from the edge

David Kay 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Got up to the juggy flake and found the moves to get past this slimy and rather perplexing. It was easier to move slightly right and do the crux of Coral Seas then move back left. I think if the muddy/grassy clumps were removed from the crack higher up then the conditions for this part of the route would be improved. Also, the stake is a long way back as stated in the guidebook but also a long way off to the side. Make sure you're climbing with a partner who doesn't fall off much.

with Catherine Elliot
jimbonfire 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Ardo 14/May/16 Lead

Tried to follow BMC line, but found the bulge harder than 5a, so traversed right to Coral Seas to overcome the bulge and back left to finish the very loose groove. Belay stake a long way back, so 50s not long enough!

with Renners
sopaz 14/May/16 2nd
with Neil
caradoc 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Two tricky sections through the bulges. Similar in difficulty, the first bulging crack might be the crux. Well protected throughout although slightly run out after the hard moves. No belay stake.

with nick yapp
the power 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
admackie 30/Aug/15 Lead

found the crux tough and the gear not so good

buxtoncoffeelover 05/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Fell off dirty overhanging crack - not quite sure how/why. Gear (excellent thread) held. Broke wrist on impact with slab 5m down. I'll be back!

with Jacob
nickcanute ??/2015 Lead
TobyA 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Fell some way off the crux. Followed the Rockfax line closely and what I think is the crux seemed really hard for 5a. The crux of Coral Sea felt much easier.

with TonyB
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd
Darron 17/Jul/14 -
Peakphil 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Went up and down crux due to very grassy overgrown section on good holds, then traversed round to complete route.

with Nick
OffshoreAndy ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The line and description! has changed significantly in the recent rockfax update indicating the crack immediately to the left of coral seas. Unless I really missed something this is very well protected but contains a move significantly harder than 5a. Still needs clarifying as this way has no 'step right'

Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/13 2nd
RM199 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
ndippie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Back on only a slightly warmer evening!! Some confusion over the correct line between the BMC 2004 guide and Northern Limestone, Climbed the Rockfax line which looked more interesting but possibly easier. Still very good climbing and well worth its 2 stars whether this is the correct was or not. Awaiting Rockfax update latter this year...

with John
Hidden 12/Jun/11 -
Jim Slater 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Gambit 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Barney
sideswiper ?/May/11 2nd β

James lead I seconded onsite with a mod to the route about half way up instead of traving left round a big buldge then trav back right james decided to just go straight up over the buldge making it more like an E1 the group agreed on :)

jshields 17/Apr/11 Lead
cragtyke 09/Apr/11 Lead
with john g
Phill Mitch 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with bleggs
smudge 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Wobbly block on slab gave me a heart attack as I was running it out since it felt pretty straightforward... that'll teach me.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
monkey1 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Lead first part including crux, crossed on to 6a route on the right and clipped on! (first HVS so was mega pumped and out of bottle) shouldnt get the tick really. First route to do on next visit

jamesgodwin64 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

a few things 1. loved it! 2. crux is at the bottom part 3. belay off coral sea's belay bolts!

Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Got too cold belaying and never really warmed up to think about the climbing too much. Felt like December not JUNE, must go back on a warm evening. Being trad has probably saved it from a lot of traffic and polish. Take care with the large loose flake at the top of the slab

with Andy Jobling
lrandall 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable route. Followed the topo in RockFax's Northern Limestone, which felt very soft for the grade (VS 5a at a push, but more like VS 4c). Chatting to Gary Gibson it seems the original route took a more direct line, which certainly looks more sustained. Well worth the stars though.

with Alex
igneouscarl 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Stahl
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
cem 06/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill, Rob Truckle
Si dH 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

The description is wrong - you dont go up the groove from the upper break but up a crack just over to the left (the BMC guide is also wrong, suggesting another groove right next to Coral Seas). The crux is definitely the move up fro mthe to of the diagonal traverse, up said crack. The rest, including the first bulging rack, is never more than tech 4c with good gear. There is now no stake. However, there are several nut placements at the to pof the route - not brilliant but good enough combined with a secure stance.

with Neil Furniss
Different Steve 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
riddle 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Good climb, some very large boulders move with alarming affect! Not so nice in the wind, save this crag for a calm sunny day.

with Kate Landells
bella_d 05/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Katie
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd
thefuturesmiles ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Richard 261 11/Aug/07 Lead

Liked it a lot even though it wanders about. But... there's only one belay point at the top. It's an old stake a long way away and NOTHING else.

with Graham
Martin Haworth ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Richard
Sankey 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Great meandering route, toughest at the first bulging crack, and a bit technical for a few moves on the left hand side.

with Reuben
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 13/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Rebecca
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Sam and will 14/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + WIll Nash
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 05/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
babymoac 12/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 16
High 5b
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High 4c
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
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