Climbs 417
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Battling the Coral Seas © Justin Reid

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

There is an excellant article here on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward.

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Follow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Restricted Access

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 This is the End *
-
5c  
3 The End is Nigh 5a 1
4 Ending Now 6a * 1
5 Euroman Endeth 4a 1
6 Endeth
-
5a 1
7 Dark End * 6a+ * 1
8 Endor * 6b+ * 1
9 Bad End *
-
6b  
10 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
11 DNE *
-
4b  
12 Endamol *
-
5b  
13 Will It never End 4c 24
14 Is this the End? 5a 16
15 Coming to an end 6a+ 13
16 End Games HVS 5a 1
17 Rawlinson End * 5b 1
18 In My Darkest Hour 5a 33
19 Endsville 6a 29
20 Centreville 6a 14
21 Preston North End 6c  
22 Will They? 5a 3
23 People Will Talk 5c 76
24 The Parting of the Lips 5a 51
25 Ear to Ear 6a+ 27
26 Uncreased VS 4c 4
27 Hairline VS 4c 5
28 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 17
29 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 5
30 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 69
31 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
32 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 17
33 Dark Lines *
-
5b  
34 The Dark Half 6b * 50
35 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 4
36 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 3
37 Ghost Writer 5c 5
38 Under the Lifeline 6b  
39 Over the Deadline 6b 2
40 Automatic Writing 6a 3
41 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
42 No Wisdom *
-
6b+  
43 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
44 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
45 Later That Night 6b 5
46 Mourning Blues *
-
6c+  
47 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 109
48 Flight of the Finches 6c  
49 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
50 Pigeon Couped *
-
6b  
51 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
52 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
53 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 77
54 Get a Grip on the Short Side *
-
6b+  
55 Feel My Presence 6b+ 16
56 Tapenard 6b * 15
57 Half and Half 6a 2
58 Wild Olives 6b * 39
59 Gorignak 6b * 61
60 Galaxy Quest 5c * 92
61 Omega 13 6a+ * 106
62 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 32
  Perched Block Buttress
64 What's the Paint? 5a 20
65 Pity the Grafitti 5a 6
66 Set Fred Free 6a 7
67 Wilky's Revenge 5c 5
68 Making Plans for Nidge 6b 1
69 Helzapoppin' 7a *  
70 Right Said Fred 6b  
71 Gee Whiz-z-z-z-z-z *
-
6b  
72 Coyote Club 6a 5
73 Fast and Furry-ous *
-
6a  
74 Wile E Coyote (Trad) E2 5c 3
75 Wile E Coyote 6a 63
76 Beep, Beep 6a+ 45
77 Road Runner 5a 68
78 Road Runner (Trad) E1 5b 5
79 Running for Cover 5c 80
80 The Run Off 5b 33
81 Elmer Thud *
-
5a  
82 Lickin' Chicken' *
-
5a  
83 Greensleeves VS 4b 6
  Papacy Buttress
85 Angleterre 5a 18
86 This England 7a+ * 3
87 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
88 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
89 Gritarete 7a * 5
90 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
91 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 20
92 Sincerely Yours 6b * 20
93 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 79
94 Insincerely 6b  
95 Sin City E1 5b *  
96 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 62
97 The Seven Deadly Sins Direct E1 5b  
98 Coral Seas 6a *** 719
99 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 60
100 Lust VS 4c * 4
101 Freedom of Choice
-
VS 4c 1
102 Ask Mr. T for Tea 6c+ * 6
103 Rocky Variations 6b *** 283
104 Apollo Creed 6b *** 237
105 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 41
106 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
107 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
108 Full Frontal 6c * 46
109 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 33
110 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 23
111 Dementia Normale 6a * 175
112 The Last Straw 6b 15
113 Figure of Law 6c+ * 5
114 I Am The Law 6b+ * 3
  Prophecy Area
116 Danny Cool 5a 10
117 Cool Danny 6b 4
118 Screaming Wheels 6b * 11
119 Swain's World 6b * 21
120 No Man's Land 6b+ 8
121 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 29
122 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 42
123 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
124 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 8
125 Thing Thang 7a 4
126 Thang Thing 7a 3
127 Slab de Lune 6a 5
128 Master of a Lune 6b 3
129 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 49
130 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 157
131 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
132 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 10
133 Tenth Heaven 6b * 4
134 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 94
135 Glas Double 7a * 1
136 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
137 Over the Hill 6c ** 50
138 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 4
139 The Omen 6b ** 39
140 Yogi Bare 7a * 22
141 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 39
142 The Talisman 6c+ * 15
143 Bleingassen 6c * 10
144 The Oracle 7b * 3
Climb name Grade
145 The Prophecy 7a ** 36
146 Supernatural 6a ** 115
147 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
148 What a Load of Roti 6a * 27
149 Aloo Gobi 6c 7
150 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
151 Pappadum Groove 6a 8
152 Quartz Initial 6b+ 10
153 Duma Key 6a * 10
154 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 9
155 Different Seasons 6a+ * 56
156 Apt Pupil 6c * 13
157 In the Gravy 6a * 70
158 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 12
159 Inception HS 4b  
160 Calcite Claws 6c * 8
161 So Veneer 6b 4
162 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
164 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
165 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
166 The Gruesome Twosome *
-
5a  
167 The Ant Hill Mob *
-
5c  
168 Pole Position 6a 27
169 Checkered Flag 5c 34
170 Peter Perfect 5a 32
171 The Whacky Races 5a 12
172 The Silver Stone 6a 14
173 Long Playa 6b * 65
174 Silvery Stone 6a 11
175 Dodgem Central 6b 28
176 Life's a Drag 6a 40
177 TT Special 5a 14
178 Brands Hatched 6a 14
179 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 4
180 Speed Freak 6b 16
181 Lap Times 5c 3
182 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
183 Play de las Americas *
-
6a  
184 Brooklands 6b 3
185 Bone-man Connection E2 5c 1
186 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
187 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
188 Scientist E1 5b 1
189 Speed Trails 7a * 5
190 Hogs *
-
6a  
191 Quads 5a 3
192 High Impact 6a+ * 27
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
194 In Isolation 6a 2
195 Strange Concept *
-
4b  
196 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 2
197 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
198 Mirrios 6a+ 2
199 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
200 Tricycle Man E2 5c  
201 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
202 Get Peddling 6c+ 1
203 Face Value E3 6a 9
204 Face Value (Trad)
-
E3 6a  
205 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense E3 6a 1
206 Faces in the Mirror 6c 2
207 College Crack E1 5b 1
208 Permutation Wall (Trad) HVS 5b 3
209 Permutation Wall 6b * 3
210 Balance of Probabilities 6c 4
211 Upthrutch 2 HVS 5b  
212 Pinch the Pane *
-
6b+  
213 Diamond Geiser *
-
6a  
214 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
215 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 1
216 More Pool You 6a  
217 Sleeping Sickness 6a 20
218 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 24
219 Sleep On It 6b 13
220 Regulo Mark 6 6b 14
221 Easy on the Gas 5a 69
222 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 45
223 The Pillar Walk 5c * 52
224 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 11
225 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 20
226 You've Addit 6a 71
227 Addit Enough 5c 73
228 Addit Pillar 6a+ 27
229 Novicok Stone 6b 5
230 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 9
231 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 11
232 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 28
233 Tooooo long 6a 67
234 Longevity 6a 36
235 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 16
236 Long Time No See 6a 62
237 The Long Walk 6b 42
238 So Long, Farewell 6a 67
239 New Line 1 * 5b 1
240 Belonging 5c 68
241 A Dea 6a * 10
242 Doh 6b 43
243 New Line 2 * 5c 1
244 Crustyland 6b 5
245 Woo Hoo 5a 8
246 Have Another Cow *
-
4a  
  College Buttress
248 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
249 Carvery 6a+ 6
250 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
251 Fartless 7a+  
252 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 4
253 The Gypsy Kings 6c 6
254 Gooncrack 6b+ * 11
255 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 3
256 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 4
257 Profitless 6b * 13
258 Merry Pheasant E1 5c  
259 Moontalk 6b+ * 8
260 Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c * 1
261 Bonedigger E1 5b 1
262 Prefect Day 6b * 24
263 Silently Sprung 6b 14
264 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b  
265 White Wind 6a 14
  The Lower Tier
267 Thank-you Grooves 5a 7
268 Wallaclism 6b 1
269 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
270 Overbored 5a * 118
271 Gatting the Groove 5c 122
272 Mine Anarchy 5c 161
273 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 103
274 Always Break the Rules 5c * 205
275 Snap Decision 5c 152
276 The Candyman 6a+ * 112
277 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 157
278 Toy Story 6a 95
279 Suck on This 6a+ * 85
280 Jelly Beans 6a+ 35
281 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 144
282 Candy Store 6a * 104
283 Tempting Children 6c+ 9
284 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 59
285 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 61
286 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 13
287 Do Little 6a 11
288 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
Climb name Grade
289 The Sweat Shop 6a 5
290 Totti for England 4a 56
291 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 75
292 Top Totty 5a * 192
293 Jelly Tots 5a 130
294 Tiny Tots 6a * 144
295 Teeny Tots 6a 91
296 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 10
297 Outside Tokyo 6b 29
298 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 24
299 Sumo 7a * 18
300 A Nip in the Air 6b 9
301 Geisha Grooves 6a 38
302 Saweno Gancho 6c * 7
303 Setting Sons 6a 32
304 The Golden Goose 5a 58
305 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 55
306 The Rising Sun 5a 78
307 Kamikaze Clone 6a 41
308 Shang-Hai 6b 1
309 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 21
310 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
311 Picture This 6a 1
312 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
313 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
315 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
316 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
317 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
318 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
319 The Light 7a * 3
320 Take Flight 6c+ 2
321 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
322 Outer Limits 6b ** 16
323 Twilight Zone 6a+ 5
324 Argy Bargy 5a 28
325 The Misfits 6a 44
326 Hissing Sid 6b 67
327 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
328 Ratline 7b+ ** 72
329 Cairn 7a *** 316
330 Stealth 7a+ ** 16
331 Great White 6a 132
332 Orca 6a+ 9
333 The Naked Spur 5a * 203
334 The Driving Board 5a 1
335 Assault and Battery 6b+ 6
336 Ground and Pound 6a * 4
337 Trial and Error 7a 6
338 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 241
339 Cabin Fever 6b 51
340 Unknown S 6
341 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 21
342 Barney Rubble VS 4c 8
343 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 6
344 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 82
345 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 27
346 99p Special 6b 69
347 Food for Sport 6a * 88
348 Over Easy 6a 6
349 Full set 6a+ 32
350 Short Sport 6b 10
351 BYGOF *
-
6a 1
  The Sanctuary
353 By Caesarean 5c 98
354 New Arrivals 6a+ 73
355 Expecting 5a 195
356 Premature 6a 74
357 Induction Program 5a 125
358 Safe Haven 5c 128
359 The Hollow Man 5a 149
360 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 214
361 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 117
362 Ichabod 5c 101
363 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 136
364 Bonny Helena 5a 45
365 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 184
366 The Height Below 5a 128
367 The Sanctuarian 6c 41
368 For Haven's Sake 6b * 85
369 Downtown 6b * 88
370 What Lies Beneath 6b 40
371 Haven or Hell 6a 25
  The Playground
373 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
374 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
375 Edge Play 5a 28
376 Play Doh 6a 22
377 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
378 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 6
379 Groovy Player 6a+ 2
380 Pachucho Cadaver/Movie Player 6a 24
381 Hard Player 6b+ 12
382 I'm Not a Player 4a 26
383 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
384 The Hex 6c+ 1
385 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
386 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
387 E for Friction E1 5b 1
388 Whose is Casey ? 6a 21
389 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
390 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
391 Leben Tod 6a+ 14
392 Spinball Wizard 6b  
393 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
394 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
395 Flog the Lume 6a 14
396 A Comedy of Played Errors 6a+ 4
397 Did Romeo Play 4a 35
398 With Juliet 6a+ 7
399 A Merchant Played in Venice 4a 27
  The Retreat
401 Clean Line 5c 6
402 Mean Team 4a 6
403 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 8
404 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
405 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
406 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
407 Unfinished Business 7a+  
408 Fin de Siecle 6c+ * 2
409 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
410 Irrational 7a+  
411 The Butch Master 6b+ 2
412 Retro Rockets 6c+  
413 Let it Go 6c+  
414 Gullied 5a  
415 The Gully Folk 6b 1
416 Sub-Atomic 7a  
417 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
418 Clay Man VS 4c 2
419 Dog Canute E1 5b * 2
420 Yardcore E3 5c 1
421 Shardlowcore 5a 1
422 No Retreat 6a+ 3
423 Beat Retreat 6b 1
424 Couples Retreat 6b+ 2
425 Retreaty 7a  
426 VLC 6c 2
427 SLF 6a+ 2
428 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
430 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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