Climbs 433
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 431m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Dwane Barker climbing I'm in the Sin Bin (6a) at Harpur Hill © Alan James

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if it's windy it will be cold here, even on a sunny day!), hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-outs- "proper climbing, not just crimping"! Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

There is an excellant article here on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward.

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Follow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Restricted Access

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Was pleasantly surprised by the quarry, especially the upper tier. As per UKC the bolting is spaced, I was glad for having taken a set of nuts up Supernatural, would have been an absolute gripper without. Currently birds (crows?) nesting in just about every nook and cranny, so I'll be waiting 2-3 weeks before a return visit.
GermanAlex - 20/May/19
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 This is the End
-
5c 1
3 The End is Nigh 5a 2
4 Ending Now 6a * 2
5 Euroman Endeth 4a 2
6 Endeth
-
5a 2
7 Dark End 6a+ * 3
8 Endor 6b+ * 1
9 Bad End
-
6b  
10 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
11 DNE
-
4b  
12 Endamol
-
5b 1
13 Will It never End 4c 32
14 Is this the End? 5a 20
15 Coming to an end 6a+ 17
16 End Games HVS 5a 2
17 Rawlinson End 5b 4
18 In My Darkest Hour 5a 47
19 Endsville 6a 35
20 Centreville 6a 17
21 Preston North End 6c 1
22 Will They? 5a 4
23 People Will Talk 5c 81
24 The Parting of the Lips 5a 55
25 Ear to Ear 6a+ 28
26 Uncreased VS 4c 4
27 Hairline VS 4c 5
28 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 17
29 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 7
30 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 75
31 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
32 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 22
33 Dark Lines
-
5b 8
34 The Dark Half 6b * 58
35 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 5
36 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 4
37 Ghost Writer 5c 5
38 Under the Lifeline 6b 2
39 Over the Deadline 6b 2
40 Automatic Writing 6a 3
41 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
42 No Wisdom
-
6b+  
43 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
44 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
45 Later That Night 6b 5
46 Mourning Blues
-
6c+  
47 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 119
48 Flight of the Finches 6c  
49 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
50 Pigeon Couped
-
6b  
51 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
52 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
53 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 85
54 Get a Grip on the Short Side
-
6b+ 1
55 Feel My Presence 6b+ 17
56 Tapenard 6b * 24
57 Half and Half 6a 2
58 Wild Olives 6b * 44
59 Gorignak 6b * 69
60 Galaxy Quest 5c * 113
61 Omega 13 6a+ * 137
62 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 38
  Perched Block Buttress
64 What's the Paint? 5a 30
65 Pity the Grafitti 5a 12
66 Set Fred Free 6a 13
67 Wilky's Revenge 5c 8
68 Making Plans for Nidge 6b 2
69 Helzapoppin' 7a * 4
70 Right Said Fred 6b 1
71 Gee Whiz-z-z-z-z-z 6b 2
72 Coyote Club 6a 20
73 Fast and Furry-ous 6a * 5
74 Wile E Coyote (Trad) E2 5c 10
75 Wile E Coyote 6a 84
76 Beep, Beep 6a+ 61
77 Road Runner 5a 88
78 Road Runner (Trad) E1 5b 16
79 Running for Cover 5c 117
80 The Run Off 5b 45
81 Elmer Thud 5a 9
82 Lickin' Chicken' 5a 3
83 Greensleeves VS 4b 8
84 Zebedee 5a 1
  Papacy Buttress
86 Angleterre 5a 22
87 This England 7a+ * 4
88 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
89 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
90 Gritarete 7a * 5
91 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
92 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 21
93 Sincerely Yours 6b * 25
94 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 99
95 Insincerely 6b 1
96 Sin City E1 5b *  
97 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 65
98 The Seven Deadly Sins Direct E1 5b  
99 Coral Seas 6a *** 820
100 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 63
101 Lust VS 4c * 4
102 Freedom of Choice
-
VS 4c 1
103 Ask Mr. T for Tea 6c+ * 6
104 Rocky Variations 6b *** 323
105 Apollo Creed 6b *** 273
106 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 42
107 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
108 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
109 Full Frontal 6c+ * 57
110 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 33
111 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 24
112 Dementia Normale 6a * 210
113 The Last Straw 6b 18
114 Figure of Law 6c+ * 6
115 I Am The Law 6b+ * 4
  Prophecy Area
117 Danny Cool 5a 12
118 Cool Danny 6b 4
119 Screaming Wheels 6b * 12
120 Swain's World 6b * 26
121 No Man's Land 6b+ 8
122 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 32
123 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 46
124 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
125 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 9
126 Thing Thang 7a 4
127 Thang Thing 7a 3
128 Slab de Lune 6a 5
129 Master of a Lune 6b 3
130 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 50
131 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 171
132 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
133 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 10
134 Tenth Heaven 6b * 4
135 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 108
136 Glas Double 7a * 1
137 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
138 Over the Hill 6c ** 61
139 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 6
140 The Omen 6b ** 58
141 Yogi Bare 7a * 23
142 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 43
143 The Talisman 6c+ * 16
144 Bleingassen 6c * 13
145 The Oracle 7b * 3
146 The Prophecy 7a ** 42
147 Supernatural 6a ** 154
148 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
149 What a Load of Roti 6a * 39
Climb name Grade
150 Aloo Gobi 6c 7
151 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
152 Pappadum Groove 6a 11
153 Quartz Initial 6b+ 10
154 Duma Key 6a * 18
155 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 9
156 Different Seasons 6a+ * 62
157 Apt Pupil 6c * 13
158 In the Gravy 6a * 78
159 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 12
160 Inception HS 4b  
161 Calcite Claws 6c * 8
162 So Veneer 6b 4
163 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
165 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
166 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
167 The Gruesome Twosome
-
5a  
168 The Ant Hill Mob
-
5c  
169 Pole Position 6a 30
170 Checkered Flag 5c 43
171 Peter Perfect 5a 44
172 The Whacky Races 5a 14
173 The Silver Stone 6a 15
174 Long Playa 6b * 85
175 Silvery Stone 6a 14
176 Dodgem Central 6b 33
177 Life's a Drag 6a 47
178 TT Special 5a 14
179 Brands Hatched 6a 18
180 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 5
181 Speed Freak 6b 21
182 Lap Times 5c 6
183 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
184 Play de las Americas
-
6a 1
185 Brooklands 6b 4
186 Bone-man Connection E2 5c 1
187 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
188 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
189 Scientist E1 5b 1
190 Speed Trails 7a * 5
191 Hogs
-
6a  
192 Quads 5a 4
193 Drag Racing Central 5c 5
  Isolated Routes
195 High Impact 6a+ * 32
196 In Isolation 6a 2
197 Strange Concept
-
4b  
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
199 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 2
200 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
201 Mirrios 6a+ 2
202 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
203 Tricycle Man 6b+  
204 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
205 Get Peddling 6c+ 2
206 Face Value 6b+ 15
207 Face Value (Trad) E3 6a * 1
208 A Dip in the Turquoise Nonsense 6b+ 2
209 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense (Trad)
-
E3 6a 1
210 Faces in the Mirror 6c 2
211 College Crack E1 5b 1
212 Permutation Wall (Trad)
-
HVS 5b 3
213 Permutation Wall 6b * 3
214 Balance of Probabilities 6c 4
215 Upthrutch 2 HVS 5b  
216 Pinch the Pane
-
6b+  
217 Diamond Geiser
-
6a  
218 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
219 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 2
220 More Pool You 6a 1
221 Sleeping Sickness 6a 25
222 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 28
223 Sleep On It 6b 15
224 Regulo Mark 6 6b 17
225 Easy on the Gas 5a 99
226 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 59
227 The Pillar Walk 5c * 71
228 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 25
229 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 12
230 You've Addit 6a 82
231 Addit Enough 5c 95
232 Addit Pillar 6a+ 32
233 Novicok Stone 6b 7
234 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 10
235 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 14
236 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 39
237 Tooooo long 6a 90
238 Longevity 6a 48
239 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 25
240 Long Time No See 6a 74
241 The Long Walk 6b 51
242 So Long, Farewell 6a 82
243 Belonging Left 5b 10
244 Belonging 5c 84
245 A Dea 6a * 32
246 Doh 6b 58
247 Doh Right 5c 8
248 Crustyland 6b 6
249 Woo Hoo 5a 17
250 Have Another Cow
-
4a 4
  College Buttress
252 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
253 Carvery 6a+ 6
254 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
255 Fartless 7a+  
256 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 4
257 The Gypsy Kings 6c 6
258 Gooncrack 6b+ * 11
259 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 3
260 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 5
261 Profitless 6b * 15
262 Merry Pheasant (Trad)
-
E1 5c  
263 Merry Pheasant
-
6b 5
264 Moontalk 6b+ * 10
265 Frantic Manoeuvres (Trad) E2 * 2
266 Frantic Manoeuvres
-
6b ** 9
267 Moontrack 6b 2
268 Bonedigger (Trad)
-
E1 5b 1
269 Bonedigger
-
6a+ 6
270 Prefect Day 6b * 31
271 Silently Sprung 6b 17
272 Stepping Off 5b 8
273 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps (Trad) E1 1
274 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps
-
6a+ 6
275 White Wind 6a 19
276 Blind Wind 6a 5
  The Lower Tier
278 Thank-you Grooves 5a 9
279 Wallaclism 6b 1
280 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
281 Overbored 5a * 136
282 Getting the Groove 5c 136
283 Mine Anarchy 5c 177
284 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 112
285 Always Break the Rules 5c * 231
286 Snap Decision 5c 164
287 Taff
-
5c  
288 Tiff
-
5c  
289 Boys With The Toys
-
6a 1
290 The Candyman 6a+ * 129
291 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 179
292 Toy Story 6a 100
293 Suck on This 6a+ * 97
294 Jelly Beans 6a+ 49
295 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 161
296 Candy Store 6a * 125
297 Hello Little Girl
-
6a  
298 Tempting Children 6c+ 10
Climb name Grade
299 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 63
300 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 67
301 Litter Is Me 6a 1
302 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 17
303 Do Little 6a 11
304 Much Too Young
-
6a  
305 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
306 The Sweat Shop 6a 6
307 Totti for England 4a 72
308 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 80
309 Top Totty 5a * 206
310 Jelly Tots 5a 137
311 Tiny Tots 6a * 155
312 Teeny Tots 6a 94
313 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 11
314 Outside Tokyo 6b 33
315 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 24
316 Sumo 7a * 19
317 A Nip in the Air 6b 11
318 Geisha Grooves 6a 42
319 Saweno Gancho 6c * 7
320 Setting Sons 6a 34
321 The Golden Goose 5a 60
322 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 58
323 The Rising Sun 5a 83
324 Kamikaze Clone 6a 43
325 Shang-Hai 6b 1
326 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 23
327 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
328 Picture This 6a 1
329 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
330 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
332 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
333 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
334 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
335 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
336 The Light 7a * 3
337 Take Flight 6c+ 2
338 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
339 Outer Limits 6b ** 16
340 Twilight Zone 6a+ 5
341 Argy Bargy 5a 34
342 The Misfits 6a 50
343 Hissing Sid 6b 75
344 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
345 Ratline 7b+ ** 78
346 Cairn 7a *** 349
347 Stealth 7a+ ** 16
348 Great White 6a 149
349 Orca 6a+ 9
350 The Naked Spur 5a * 214
351 The Driving Board 5a 2
352 Assault and Battery 6b+ 12
353 Ground and Pound 6a * 5
354 Trial and Error 7a 6
355 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 276
356 Cabin Fever 6b 55
357 Unknown S 6
358 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 21
359 Barney Rubble VS 4c 8
360 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 6
361 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 85
362 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 27
363 99p Special 6b 75
364 Food for Sport 6a * 98
365 Over Easy 6a 9
366 Full set 6a+ 37
367 Short Sport 6b 11
368 BYGOF
-
6a 1
  The Sanctuary
370 By Caesarean 5c 105
371 New Arrivals 6a+ 74
372 Expecting 5a 216
373 Premature 6a 94
374 Induction Program 5a 136
375 Safe Haven 5c 148
376 The Hollow Man 5a 166
377 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 241
378 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 139
379 Ichabod 5c 108
380 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 147
381 Bonny Helena 5a 49
382 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 198
383 The Height Below 5a 141
384 The Sanctuarian 6c 43
385 For Haven's Sake 6b * 92
386 Downtown 6b * 93
387 What Lies Beneath 6b 42
388 Haven or Hell 6a 25
  The Playground
390 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
391 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
392 Edge Play 5a 32
393 Play Doh 6a 24
394 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
395 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 8
396 Groovy Player 6a+ 2
397 Pachucho Cadaver/Movie Player 6a 27
398 Hard Player 6b+ 15
399 I'm Not a Player 4a 33
400 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
401 The Hex 6c+ 1
402 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
403 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
404 E for Friction E1 5b 1
405 Whose is Casey ? 6a 23
406 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
407 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
408 Leben Tod 6a+ 16
409 Spinball Wizard 6b  
410 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
411 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
412 Flog the Lume 6a 17
413 A Comedy of Played Errors 6a+ 4
414 Did Romeo Play 4a 44
415 With Juliet 6a+ 8
416 A Merchant Played in Venice 4a 33
  The Retreat
418 Clean Line 5c 6
419 Mean Team 4a 6
420 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 8
421 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
422 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
423 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
424 Unfinished Business 7a+  
425 Fin de Siecle 6c+ * 2
426 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
427 Irrational 7a+  
428 The Butch Master 6b+ 2
429 Retro Rockets 6c+  
430 Let it Go 6c+  
431 Gullied 5a 1
432 The Gully Folk 6b 1
433 Sub-Atomic 7a  
434 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
435 Clay Man VS 4c 2
436 Dog Canute E1 5b * 2
437 Yardcore E3 5c 1
438 Shardlowcore 5a 1
439 No Retreat 6a+ 3
440 Beat Retreat 6b 1
441 Couples Retreat 6b+ 2
442 Retreaty 7a  
443 VLC 6c 2
444 SLF 6a+ 2
445 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
447 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1

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