UKC

Climbs 391
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Access Advice

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 The End is Nigh 5a 1
3 Ending Now 6a * 1
4 Euroman Endeth 4a 1
5 Endeth
-
5a 1
6 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
7 Will It never End 4c 19
8 Is this the end 5a 12
9 Coming to an end 6a+ 12
10 In My Darkest Hour 5a 30
11 End Games HVS 5a  
12 Endsville 6a 28
13 Centreville 6a 13
14 Preston North End 6c  
15 Will They? 5a 3
16 People Will Talk 5c 73
17 The Parting of the Lips 5a 50
18 Ear to Ear 6a+ 26
19 Uncreased VS 4c 4
20 Hairline VS 4c 5
21 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 17
22 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 5
23 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 68
24 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
25 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 16
26 The Dark Half 6b * 50
27 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 4
28 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 3
29 Ghost Writer 5c 4
30 Under the Lifeline 6b  
31 Over the Deadline 6b 2
32 Automatic Writing 6a 3
33 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
34 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
35 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
36 Later That Night 6b 5
37 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 107
38 Flight of the Finches 6c  
39 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
40 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
41 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
42 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 74
43 Feel My Presence 6b+ 16
44 Tapenard 6b * 15
45 Half and Half 6a 2
46 Wild Olives 6b * 37
47 Gorignak 6b * 57
48 Galaxy Quest 5c * 83
49 Omega 13 6a+ * 98
50 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 29
51 Rawlinson End * 5b 1
52 Dark End * 6a+ * 1
  Perched Block Buttress
54 What's the paint 5a 18
55 Pity The Grafitti 5a 5
56 Set Fred Free 6a 4
57 Wilky's Revenge 5c 4
58 Making Plans for Nidge 6b  
59 Helzapoppin' 7a *  
60 Right Said Fred 6b  
61 Coyote Club 6a 4
62 Wily Coyote (Trad) 6a 3
63 Wile E Coyote
-
6a * 51
64 Beep, Beep 6a+ 36
65 Road Runner 5a * 58
66 Road Runner (Trad) 5a 4
67 Zebedee/Running for Cover 5c 67
68 Balance of Actions/The Run Off 4a 27
69 Greensleeves VS 4b 6
  Papacy Buttress
71 Angleterre 5a 15
72 This England 7a+ * 3
73 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
74 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
75 Gritarete 7a * 5
76 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
77 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 18
78 Sincerely Yours 6b * 18
79 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 76
80 Sin City E1 5b *  
81 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 62
82 Coral Seas 6a *** 697
83 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 57
84 Lust VS 4c * 4
85 Freedom of Choice VS 4c 1
86 Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ * 6
87 Rocky Variations 6b *** 268
88 Apollo Creed 6b *** 229
89 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 40
90 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
91 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
92 Full Frontal 6c * 43
93 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 33
94 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 22
95 Dementia Normale 6a * 173
96 The Last Straw 6b 15
97 Figure of Law 6c+ * 5
98 I Am The Law 6b+ * 3
  Prophecy Area
100 Danny Cool 5a 10
101 Cool Danny 6b 3
102 Screaming Wheels 6b * 10
103 Swain's World 6b * 20
104 No Man's Land 6b+ 8
105 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 27
106 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 42
107 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
108 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 7
109 Thing Thang 7a 4
110 Thang Thing 7a 3
111 Slab de Lune 6a 5
112 Master of a Lune 6b 3
113 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 48
114 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 148
115 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
116 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 10
117 Tenth Heaven 6b * 4
118 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 92
119 Glas Double 7a * 1
120 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
121 Over the Hill 6c ** 46
122 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 3
123 The Omen 6b ** 34
124 Yogi Bare 7a * 21
125 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 36
126 The Talisman 6c+ * 15
127 Bleingassen 6c * 10
128 The Oracle 7b * 3
129 The Prophecy 7a ** 34
130 Supernatural 6a ** 110
131 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
132 What a Load of Roti 6a * 26
133 Aloo Gobi 6c 7
134 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
135 Pappadum Groove 6a 8
Climb name Grade
136 Quartz Initial 6b+ 10
137 Duma Key 6a * 9
138 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 9
139 Different Seasons 6a+ * 52
140 Apt Pupil 6c * 11
141 In the Gravy 6a * 68
142 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 11
143 Inception HS 4b  
144 Calcite Claws 6c * 7
145 So Veneer 6b 4
146 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
148 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
149 Pole Position 6a 25
150 Checkered Flag 5c 32
151 Peter Perfect 5a 30
152 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
153 The Whacky Races 5a 12
154 The Silver Stone 6a 14
155 Long Playa 6b * 61
156 Silvery Stone 6a 9
157 Dodgem Central 6b 25
158 Life's a Drag 6a 36
159 TT Special 5a 14
160 Brands Hatched 6a 14
161 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 4
162 Speed Freak 6b 16
163 Lap Times 5c 3
164 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
165 Brooklands 6b 3
166 Boneman Connection E2 5c 1
167 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
168 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
169 Scientist E1 5b 1
170 Speed Trails 7a * 5
171 Quads 5a 3
172 High Impact 6a+ * 26
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
174 In Isolation 6a 2
175 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 2
176 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
177 Mirrios 6a+ 2
178 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
179 Tricycle Man E2 5c  
180 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
181 Get Peddling 6c+ 1
182 Face Value 6b+ 9
183 Face Value E3 6a  
184 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense E3 6a 1
185 Faces in the Mirror 6c 1
186 College Crack E1 5b 1
187 Permutation Wall HVS 5b 3
188 More Permutations 6b * 3
189 Balance of Probabilities 6c 3
190 Upthrutch HVS 5b  
191 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
192 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 1
193 More Pool You 6a  
194 Sleeping Sickness 6a 18
195 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 22
196 Sleep On It 6b 12
197 Regulo Mark 6 6b 11
198 Easy On The Gas 5a 59
199 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 39
200 The Pillar Walk 5c * 48
201 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 11
202 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 20
203 You've Addit 6a 66
204 Addit Enough 5c 70
205 Addit Pillar 6a+ 24
206 Novicok Stone 6b 5
207 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 9
208 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 11
209 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 26
210 Tooooo long 6a 62
211 Longevity 6a 35
212 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 15
213 Long Time No See 6a 57
214 The Long Walk 6b 37
215 So Long, Farewell 6a 65
216 Belonging 5c 65
217 A Dea 6a * 7
218 Doh 6b 42
219 Crustyland 6b 5
220 Woo Hoo 5a 7
  College Buttress
222 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
223 Carvery 6a+ 4
224 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
225 Fartless 7a+  
226 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 2
227 The Gypsy Kings 6c 3
228 Gooncrack 6b+ * 9
229 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 1
230 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 4
231 Profitless 6b * 12
232 Merry Pheasant E1 5c  
233 Moontalk 6b+ * 6
234 Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c * 1
235 Bonedigger E1 5b 1
236 Prefect Day 6b * 21
237 Silent Sprung 6b 11
238 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b  
239 White Wind 6a 13
  The Lower Tier
241 Thank-you Grooves 5a 7
242 Wallaclism 6b 1
243 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
244 Overbored 5a * 115
245 Gatting the Groove 5c 119
246 Mine Anarchy 5c 154
247 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 99
248 Always Break the Rules 5c * 197
249 Snap Decision 5c 145
250 The Candyman 6a+ * 108
251 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 152
252 Toy Story 6a 94
253 Suck on This 6a+ * 81
254 Jelly Beans 6a+ 33
255 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 135
256 Candy Store 6a * 100
257 Tempting Children 6c+ 9
258 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 57
259 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 56
260 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 11
261 Do Little 6a 11
262 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
263 The Sweat Shop 6a 5
264 Totti for England 4a 49
265 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 70
266 Top Totty 5a * 183
267 Jelly Tots 5a 125
268 Tiny Tots 6a * 138
269 Teeny Tots 6a 86
270 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 10
Climb name Grade
271 Outside Tokyo 6b 29
272 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 22
273 Sumo 7a * 17
274 A Nip in the Air 6b 9
275 Geisha Grooves 6a 38
276 Saweno Gancho 6c * 7
277 Setting Sons 6a 32
278 The Golden Goose 5a 58
279 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 54
280 The Rising Sun 5a 78
281 Kamikaze Clone 6a 41
282 Shang-Hai 6b 1
283 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 19
284 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
285 Picture This 6a 1
286 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
287 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
289 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
290 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
291 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
292 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
293 The Light 7a * 3
294 Take Flight 6c+ 2
295 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
296 Outer Limits 6b ** 13
297 Twilight Zone 6a+ 5
298 Argy Bargy 5a 27
299 The Misfits 6a 44
300 Hissing Sid 6b 64
301 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
302 Ratline 7b+ ** 71
303 Cairn 7a *** 302
304 Stealth 7a+ ** 14
305 Great White 6a 128
306 Orca 6a+ 9
307 The Naked Spur 5a * 195
308 The Driving Board 5a 1
309 Assault and Battery 6b+ 6
310 Ground and Pound 6a * 2
311 Trial and Error 7a 6
312 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 234
313 Cabin Fever 6b 48
314 Unknown S 4
315 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 20
316 Barney Rubble VS 4c 8
317 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 6
318 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 78
319 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 27
320 99p Special 6b 66
321 Food for Sport 6a * 77
322 Over Easy 6a 6
323 Full set 6a+ 31
324 Short Sport 6b 9
  The Sanctuary
326 By Caesarean 5c 98
327 New Arrivals 6a+ 73
328 Expecting 5a 193
329 Induction Program 5a 124
330 Premature 6a 70
331 Safe Haven 5c 126
332 The Hollow Man 5a 145
333 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 205
334 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 112
335 Ichabod 5c 98
336 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 132
337 Bonny Helena 5a 43
338 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 179
339 The Height Below 5a 123
340 The Sanctuarian 6c 39
341 For Haven's Sake 6b * 81
342 Downtown 6b * 85
343 What Lies Beneath 6b 36
344 Haven or Hell 6a 23
  The Playground
346 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
347 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
348 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
349 Edge Play 5a 24
350 Play Doh 6a 18
351 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 4
352 Groovy Player 6a+ 1
353 Movie Player 6a 23
354 Hard Player 6b+ 10
355 I'm not a player 4a 25
356 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
357 The Hex 6c+ 1
358 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
359 E for Friction E1 5b 1
360 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
361 Whose is Casey ? 6a 19
362 Leben Tod 6a+ 13
363 Pinball Wizard 6b  
364 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
365 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
366 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
367 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
368 Flog the Lune 6a 14
369 A Comedy Of Played Errors 6a+ 4
370 Did Romeo Play 4a 33
371 With Juliet 6a+ 7
372 A merchant played in venice 4a 26
  The Retreat
374 Clean Line 5c 6
375 Mean Team 4a 6
376 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 7
377 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
378 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
379 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
380 Unfinished Business 7a+  
381 Fin de Siecle 6c+ * 2
382 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
383 Tough Looking Face 7a+  
384 The Butch Master 6b+ 1
385 Retro Rockets 6c+  
386 Let it Go 6c+  
387 Pleasant Pillar 5a  
388 The Gully Folk 6b 1
389 Sub-Atomic 7a  
390 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
391 Clay Man VS 4c 1
392 Dog Canute E1 5b * 2
393 Yardcore E3 5c 1
394 Gully Wall Right 5a 1
395 No Retreat 6a+ 3
396 Beat Retreat 6b 1
397 Couples Retreat 6b+ 1
398 Tough Face 7a  
399 VLC 6c 1
400 SLF 6a+ 1
401 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
403 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1
404 Endor * 6b+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall