UKC

Climbs 376
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Access Advice

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
3 Will It never End 4c 16
4 Is this the end 5a 9
5 Coming to an end 6a+ 11
6 In My Darkest Hour 5a 28
7 End Games HVS 5a  
8 Endsville 6a 24
9 Centreville 6a 12
10 Preston North End 6c  
11 Will They? 5a 2
12 People Will Talk 5c 70
13 The Parting of the Lips 5a 49
14 Ear to Ear 6a+ 26
15 Uncreased VS 4c 4
16 Hairline VS 4c 5
17 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 16
18 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 3
19 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 64
20 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
21 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 15
22 The Dark Half 6b * 44
23 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 4
24 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 3
25 Ghost Writer 5c 4
26 Under the Lifeline 6b  
27 Over the Deadline 6b 2
28 Automatic Writing 6a 3
29 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
30 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
31 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
32 Later That Night 6b 4
33 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 100
34 Flight of the Finches 6c  
35 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
36 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
37 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
38 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 71
39 Feel My Presence 6b+ 16
40 Tapenard 6b * 11
41 Half and Half 6a 1
42 Wild Olives 6b * 35
43 Gorignak 6b * 50
44 Galaxy Quest 5c * 66
45 Omega 13 6a+ * 83
46 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 27
  Perched Block Buttress
48 What's the paint 5a 15
49 Pity The Grafitti 5a 5
50 Set Fred Free 6a 4
51 Wilky's Revenge 5c 3
52 Making Plans for Nidge 6b  
53 Helzapoppin' 7a *  
54 Right Said Fred 6b  
55 Coyote Club 6a 3
56 Wily Coyote (Trad) 6a 3
57 Wile E Coyote
-
6a * 41
58 Beep, Beep 6a+ 27
59 Road Runner
-
5a * 38
60 Road Runner (Trad) 5a 4
61 Zebedee/Running for Cover 5c 46
62 Balance of Actions/The Run Off 4a 18
63 Greensleeves VS 4b 5
  Papacy Buttress
65 Angleterre 5a 12
66 This England 7a+ * 3
67 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
68 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
69 Gritarete 7a * 4
70 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
71 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 17
72 Sincerely Yours 6b * 16
73 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 65
74 Sin City E1 5b *  
75 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 58
76 Coral Seas 6a *** 635
77 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 50
78 Lust VS 4c * 3
79 Freedom of Choice VS 4c 1
80 Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ * 4
81 Rocky Variations 6b *** 246
82 Apollo Creed 6b *** 203
83 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 34
84 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
85 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
86 Full Frontal 6c * 41
87 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 28
88 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 20
89 Dementia Normale 6a * 163
90 The Last Straw 6b 15
91 Figure of Law 6c+ * 4
92 I Am The Law 6b+ * 2
  Prophecy Area
94 Danny Cool 5a 7
95 Cool Danny 6b 3
96 Screaming Wheels 6b * 10
97 Swain's World 6b * 18
98 No Man's Land 6b+ 7
99 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 23
100 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 39
101 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
102 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 7
103 Thing Thang 7a 4
104 Thang Thing 7a 3
105 Slab de Lune 6a 5
106 Master of a Lune 6b 2
107 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 37
108 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 128
109 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
110 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 9
111 Tenth Heaven 6b * 3
112 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 83
113 Glas Double 7a * 1
114 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
115 Over the Hill 6c ** 43
116 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 1
117 The Omen 6b ** 28
118 Yogi Bare 7a * 19
119 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 34
120 The Talisman 6c+ * 14
121 Bleingassen 6c * 7
122 The Oracle 7b * 3
123 The Prophecy 7a ** 33
124 Supernatural 6a ** 101
125 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
126 What a Load of Roti 6a * 25
127 Aloo Gobi 6c 6
128 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
129 Pappadum Groove 6a 7
130 Quartz Initial 6b+ 9
Climb name Grade
131 Duma Key 6a * 6
132 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 7
133 Different Seasons 6a+ * 47
134 Apt Pupil 6c * 10
135 In the Gravy 6a * 64
136 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 10
137 Inception HS 4b  
138 Calcite Claws 6c * 6
139 So Veneer 6b 3
140 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
142 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
143 Pole Position 6a 21
144 Checkered Flag 5c 27
145 Peter Perfect 5a 25
146 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
147 The Whacky Races 5a 10
148 The Silver Stone 6a 9
149 Long Playa 6b * 48
150 Dodgem Central 6b 22
151 Life's a Drag 6a 26
152 TT Special 5a 11
153 Brands Hatched 6a 8
154 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 4
155 Speed Freak 6b 15
156 Lap Times 5c 1
157 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
158 Boneman Connection E2 5c 1
159 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
160 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
161 Scientist E1 5b 1
162 Speed Trails 7a * 4
163 Quads 5a 3
164 High Impact 6a+ * 26
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
166 In Isolation 6a 2
167 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 1
168 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
169 Mirrios 6a+ 2
170 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
171 Tricycle Man E2 5c  
172 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
173 Get Peddling 6c+ 1
174 Face Value 6b+ 6
175 Face Value E3 6a  
176 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense E3 6a  
177 Faces in the Mirror 6c  
178 College Crack E1 5b 1
179 Permutation Wall HVS 5b 3
180 Balance of Probabilities 6c 3
181 Upthrutch HVS 5b  
182 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
183 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 1
184 More Pool You 6a  
185 Sleeping Sickness 6a 14
186 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 17
187 Sleep On It 6b 9
188 Regulo Mark 6 6b 7
189 Easy On The Gas 5a 52
190 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 32
191 The Pillar Walk 5c * 43
192 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 9
193 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 18
194 You've Addit 6a 55
195 Addit Enough 5c 61
196 Addit Pillar 6a+ 20
197 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 8
198 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 9
199 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 19
200 Tooooo long 6a 51
201 Longevity 6a 33
202 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 13
203 Long Time No See 6a 43
204 The Long Walk 6b 30
205 So Long, Farewell 6a 51
206 Belonging 5c 58
207 Doh 6b 29
  College Buttress
209 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
210 Carvery 6a+ 4
211 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
212 Fartless 7a+  
213 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 1
214 The Gypsy Kings 6c 3
215 Gooncrack 6b+ * 9
216 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 1
217 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 4
218 Profitless 6b * 9
219 Merry Pheasant E1 5c  
220 Moontalk 6b+ * 5
221 Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c * 1
222 Bonedigger E1 5b 1
223 Prefect Day 6b * 15
224 Silent Sprung 6b 8
225 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b  
226 White Wind 6a 11
  The Lower Tier
228 Thank-you Grooves 5a 5
229 Wallaclism 6b 1
230 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
231 Overbored 5a * 108
232 Gatting the Groove 5c 115
233 Mine Anarchy 5c 147
234 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 95
235 Always Break the Rules 5c * 184
236 Snap Decision 5c 135
237 The Candyman 6a+ * 101
238 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 142
239 Toy Story 6a 91
240 Suck on This 6a+ * 79
241 Jelly Beans 6a+ 30
242 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 130
243 Candy Store 6a * 96
244 Tempting Children 6c+ 8
245 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 51
246 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 51
247 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 9
248 Do Little 6a 9
249 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
250 The Sweat Shop 6a 3
251 Totti for England 4a 45
252 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 69
253 Top Totty 5a * 178
254 Jelly Tots 5a 123
255 Tiny Tots 6a * 132
256 Teeny Tots 6a 84
257 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 10
258 Outside Tokyo 6b 28
259 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 22
260 Sumo 7a * 17
Climb name Grade
261 A Nip in the Air 6b 9
262 Geisha Grooves 6a 38
263 Saweno Gancho 6c * 6
264 Setting Sons 6a 32
265 The Golden Goose 5a 55
266 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 53
267 The Rising Sun 5a 74
268 Kamikaze Clone 6a 37
269 Shang-Hai 6b 1
270 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 18
271 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
272 Picture This 6a 1
273 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
274 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
276 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
277 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
278 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
279 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
280 The Light 7a * 3
281 Take Flight 6c+ 2
282 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
283 Outer Limits 6b ** 12
284 Twilight Zone 6a+ 4
285 Argy Bargy 5a 21
286 The Misfits 6a 44
287 Hissing Sid 6b 59
288 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
289 Ratline 7b+ ** 65
290 Cairn 7a *** 279
291 Stealth 7a+ ** 13
292 Great White 6a 124
293 Orca 6a+ 9
294 The Naked Spur 5a * 183
295 Assault and Battery 6b+ 6
296 Trial and Error 7a 6
297 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 216
298 Cabin Fever 6b 46
299 Unknown S 3
300 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 19
301 Barney Rubble VS 4c 7
302 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 5
303 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 76
304 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 26
305 99p Special 6b 63
306 Food for Sport 6a * 75
307 Over Easy 6a 5
308 Full set 6a+ 28
309 Short Sport 6b 9
310 Ground and Pound * 6a * 2
  The Sanctuary
312 By Caesarean 5c 98
313 New Arrivals 6a+ 73
314 Expecting 5a 191
315 Induction Program 5a 123
316 Premature 6a 69
317 Safe Haven 5c 125
318 The Hollow Man 5a 144
319 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 200
320 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 111
321 Ichabod 5c 96
322 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 129
323 Bonny Helena 5a 43
324 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 171
325 The Height Below 5a 122
326 The Sanctuarian 6c 39
327 For Haven's Sake 6b * 80
328 Downtown 6b * 85
329 What Lies Beneath 6b 36
330 Haven or Hell 6a 23
  The Playground
332 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
333 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
334 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
335 Edge Play 5a 23
336 Play Doh 6a 18
337 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 4
338 Groovy Player 6a+ 1
339 Movie Player 6a 23
340 Hard Player 6b+ 10
341 I'm not a player 4a 25
342 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
343 The Hex 6c+ 1
344 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
345 E for Friction E1 5b 1
346 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
347 Whose is Casey ? 6a 19
348 Leben Tod 6a+ 13
349 Pinball Wizard 6b  
350 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
351 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
352 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
353 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
354 Flog the Lune 6a 14
355 A Comedy Of Played Errors 6a+ 4
356 Did Romeo Play 4a 32
357 With Juliet 6a+ 7
358 A merchant played in venice 4a 26
  The Retreat
360 Clean Line 5c 6
361 Mean Team 4a 6
362 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 6
363 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
364 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
365 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
366 Unfinished Business 7a+  
367 Fin de Siecle 6c+ *  
368 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
369 Tough Looking Face 7a+  
370 The Butch Master 6b+ 1
371 Retro Rockets 6c+  
372 Let it Go 6c+  
373 Pleasant Pillar 5a  
374 The Gully Folk 6b 1
375 Sub-Atomic 7a  
376 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
377 Clay Man VS 4c 1
378 Dog Canute E1 5b * 1
379 Yardcore E3 5c 1
380 Gully Wall Right 5a 1
381 No Retreat 6a+ 3
382 Beat Retreat 6b 1
383 Couples Retreat 6b+ 1
384 Tough Face 7a  
385 VLC 6c 1
386 SLF 6a+ 1
387 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
389 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall