UKC

Climbs 405
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Access Advice

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 The End is Nigh 5a 1
3 Ending Now 6a * 1
4 Euroman Endeth 4a 1
5 Endeth
-
5a 1
6 Dark End * 6a+ * 1
7 Endor * 6b+ * 1
8 Bad End *
-
6b  
9 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
10 DNE *
-
4b  
11 Endamol *
-
5b  
12 Will It never End 4c 24
13 Is this the End? 5a 16
14 Coming to an end 6a+ 13
15 End Games HVS 5a 1
16 Rawlinson End * 5b 1
17 In My Darkest Hour 5a 33
18 Endsville 6a 29
19 Centreville 6a 14
20 Preston North End 6c  
21 Will They? 5a 3
22 People Will Talk 5c 74
23 The Parting of the Lips 5a 51
24 Ear to Ear 6a+ 27
25 Uncreased VS 4c 4
26 Hairline VS 4c 5
27 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 17
28 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 5
29 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 68
30 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
31 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 16
32 Dark Lines *
-
5b  
33 The Dark Half 6b * 50
34 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 4
35 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 3
36 Ghost Writer 5c 4
37 Under the Lifeline 6b  
38 Over the Deadline 6b 2
39 Automatic Writing 6a 3
40 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
41 No Wisdom *
-
6b+  
42 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
43 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
44 Later That Night 6b 5
45 Mourning Blues *
-
6c+  
46 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 109
47 Flight of the Finches 6c  
48 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
49 Pigeon Couped *
-
6b  
50 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
51 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
52 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 77
53 Get a Grip on the Short Side *
-
6b+  
54 Feel My Presence 6b+ 16
55 Tapenard 6b * 15
56 Half and Half 6a 2
57 Wild Olives 6b * 39
58 Gorignak 6b * 61
59 Galaxy Quest 5c * 92
60 Omega 13 6a+ * 106
61 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 32
  Perched Block Buttress
63 What's the Paint? 5a 19
64 Pity the Grafitti 5a 6
65 Set Fred Free 6a 7
66 Wilky's Revenge 5c 5
67 Making Plans for Nidge 6b 1
68 Helzapoppin' 7a *  
69 Right Said Fred 6b  
70 Gee Whiz-z-z-z-z-z *
-
6b  
71 Coyote Club 6a 5
72 Fast and Furry-ous *
-
6a  
73 Wile E Coyote (Trad) E2 5c 3
74 Wile E Coyote
-
6a * 63
75 Beep, Beep 6a+ 45
76 Road Runner 5a * 68
77 Road Runner (Trad) 5a 5
78 Zebedee/Running for Cover 5c 79
79 Balance of Actions/The Run Off 4a 33
80 Greensleeves VS 4b 6
81 Elmer Thud *
-
5a  
  Papacy Buttress
83 Angleterre 5a 18
84 This England 7a+ * 3
85 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
86 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
87 Gritarete 7a * 5
88 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
89 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 20
90 Sincerely Yours 6b * 20
91 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 79
92 Sin City E1 5b *  
93 Insincerely 6b  
94 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 62
95 The Seven Deadly Sins Direct E1 5b  
96 Coral Seas 6a *** 714
97 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 60
98 Lust VS 4c * 4
99 Freedom of Choice VS 4c 1
100 Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ * 6
101 Rocky Variations 6b *** 279
102 Apollo Creed 6b *** 234
103 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 40
104 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
105 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
106 Full Frontal 6c * 46
107 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 33
108 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 23
109 Dementia Normale 6a * 175
110 The Last Straw 6b 15
111 Figure of Law 6c+ * 5
112 I Am The Law 6b+ * 3
  Prophecy Area
114 Danny Cool 5a 10
115 Cool Danny 6b 4
116 Screaming Wheels 6b * 11
117 Swain's World 6b * 21
118 No Man's Land 6b+ 8
119 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 29
120 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 42
121 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
122 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 8
123 Thing Thang 7a 4
124 Thang Thing 7a 3
125 Slab de Lune 6a 5
126 Master of a Lune 6b 3
127 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 49
128 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 157
129 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
130 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 10
131 Tenth Heaven 6b * 4
132 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 94
133 Glas Double 7a * 1
134 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
135 Over the Hill 6c ** 50
136 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 4
137 The Omen 6b ** 39
138 Yogi Bare 7a * 22
139 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 39
140 The Talisman 6c+ * 15
Climb name Grade
141 Bleingassen 6c * 10
142 The Oracle 7b * 3
143 The Prophecy 7a ** 36
144 Supernatural 6a ** 114
145 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
146 What a Load of Roti 6a * 27
147 Aloo Gobi 6c 7
148 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
149 Pappadum Groove 6a 8
150 Quartz Initial 6b+ 10
151 Duma Key 6a * 10
152 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 9
153 Different Seasons 6a+ * 56
154 Apt Pupil 6c * 13
155 In the Gravy 6a * 70
156 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 12
157 Inception HS 4b  
158 Calcite Claws 6c * 8
159 So Veneer 6b 4
160 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
162 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
163 Pole Position 6a 27
164 Checkered Flag 5c 34
165 Peter Perfect 5a 32
166 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
167 The Whacky Races 5a 12
168 The Silver Stone 6a 14
169 Long Playa 6b * 63
170 Silvery Stone 6a 11
171 Dodgem Central 6b 27
172 Life's a Drag 6a 40
173 TT Special 5a 14
174 Brands Hatched 6a 14
175 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 4
176 Speed Freak 6b 16
177 Lap Times 5c 3
178 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
179 Brooklands 6b 3
180 Boneman Connection E2 5c 1
181 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
182 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
183 Scientist E1 5b 1
184 Speed Trails 7a * 5
185 Quads 5a 3
186 High Impact 6a+ * 26
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
188 In Isolation 6a 2
189 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 2
190 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
191 Mirrios 6a+ 2
192 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
193 Tricycle Man E2 5c  
194 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
195 Get Peddling 6c+ 1
196 Face Value 6b+ 9
197 Face Value E3 6a  
198 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense E3 6a 1
199 Faces in the Mirror 6c 2
200 College Crack E1 5b 1
201 Permutation Wall HVS 5b 3
202 More Permutations 6b * 3
203 Balance of Probabilities 6c 4
204 Upthrutch HVS 5b  
205 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
206 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 1
207 More Pool You 6a  
208 Sleeping Sickness 6a 20
209 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 24
210 Sleep On It 6b 13
211 Regulo Mark 6 6b 14
212 Easy On The Gas 5a 67
213 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 44
214 The Pillar Walk 5c * 51
215 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 11
216 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 20
217 You've Addit 6a 70
218 Addit Enough 5c 73
219 Addit Pillar 6a+ 25
220 Novicok Stone 6b 5
221 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 9
222 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 11
223 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 28
224 Tooooo long 6a 67
225 Longevity 6a 36
226 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 16
227 Long Time No See 6a 62
228 The Long Walk 6b 41
229 So Long, Farewell 6a 67
230 Belonging 5c 68
231 A Dea 6a * 10
232 Doh 6b 42
233 Crustyland 6b 5
234 Woo Hoo 5a 8
235 Have Another Cow *
-
4a  
  College Buttress
237 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
238 Carvery 6a+ 4
239 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
240 Fartless 7a+  
241 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 2
242 The Gypsy Kings 6c 4
243 Gooncrack 6b+ * 9
244 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 1
245 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 4
246 Profitless 6b * 13
247 Merry Pheasant E1 5c  
248 Moontalk 6b+ * 8
249 Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c * 1
250 Bonedigger E1 5b 1
251 Prefect Day 6b * 22
252 Silent Sprung 6b 12
253 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b  
254 White Wind 6a 13
  The Lower Tier
256 Thank-you Grooves 5a 7
257 Wallaclism 6b 1
258 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
259 Overbored 5a * 117
260 Gatting the Groove 5c 122
261 Mine Anarchy 5c 161
262 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 100
263 Always Break the Rules 5c * 204
264 Snap Decision 5c 152
265 The Candyman 6a+ * 112
266 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 157
267 Toy Story 6a 95
268 Suck on This 6a+ * 84
269 Jelly Beans 6a+ 35
270 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 143
271 Candy Store 6a * 103
272 Tempting Children 6c+ 9
273 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 57
274 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 60
275 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 11
276 Do Little 6a 11
277 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
278 The Sweat Shop 6a 5
279 Totti for England 4a 55
280 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 75
Climb name Grade
281 Top Totty 5a * 192
282 Jelly Tots 5a 130
283 Tiny Tots 6a * 143
284 Teeny Tots 6a 91
285 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 10
286 Outside Tokyo 6b 29
287 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 22
288 Sumo 7a * 17
289 A Nip in the Air 6b 9
290 Geisha Grooves 6a 38
291 Saweno Gancho 6c * 7
292 Setting Sons 6a 32
293 The Golden Goose 5a 58
294 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 55
295 The Rising Sun 5a 78
296 Kamikaze Clone 6a 41
297 Shang-Hai 6b 1
298 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 21
299 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
300 Picture This 6a 1
301 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
302 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
304 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
305 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
306 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
307 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
308 The Light 7a * 3
309 Take Flight 6c+ 2
310 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
311 Outer Limits 6b ** 16
312 Twilight Zone 6a+ 5
313 Argy Bargy 5a 28
314 The Misfits 6a 44
315 Hissing Sid 6b 67
316 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
317 Ratline 7b+ ** 71
318 Cairn 7a *** 313
319 Stealth 7a+ ** 15
320 Great White 6a 131
321 Orca 6a+ 9
322 The Naked Spur 5a * 200
323 The Driving Board 5a 1
324 Assault and Battery 6b+ 6
325 Ground and Pound 6a * 3
326 Trial and Error 7a 6
327 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 240
328 Cabin Fever 6b 51
329 Unknown S 6
330 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 21
331 Barney Rubble VS 4c 8
332 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 6
333 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 82
334 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 27
335 99p Special 6b 68
336 Food for Sport 6a * 86
337 Over Easy 6a 6
338 Full set 6a+ 32
339 Short Sport 6b 9
  The Sanctuary
341 By Caesarean 5c 98
342 New Arrivals 6a+ 73
343 Expecting 5a 194
344 Induction Program 5a 125
345 Premature 6a 70
346 Safe Haven 5c 126
347 The Hollow Man 5a 147
348 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 209
349 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 114
350 Ichabod 5c 100
351 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 134
352 Bonny Helena 5a 45
353 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 183
354 The Height Below 5a 124
355 The Sanctuarian 6c 40
356 For Haven's Sake 6b * 83
357 Downtown 6b * 87
358 What Lies Beneath 6b 38
359 Haven or Hell 6a 25
  The Playground
361 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
362 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
363 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
364 Edge Play 5a 27
365 Play Doh 6a 21
366 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 6
367 Groovy Player 6a+ 2
368 Movie Player 6a 23
369 Hard Player 6b+ 11
370 I'm not a player 4a 25
371 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
372 The Hex 6c+ 1
373 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
374 E for Friction E1 5b 1
375 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
376 Whose is Casey ? 6a 20
377 Leben Tod 6a+ 14
378 Pinball Wizard 6b  
379 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
380 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
381 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
382 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
383 Flog the Lune 6a 14
384 A Comedy Of Played Errors 6a+ 4
385 Did Romeo Play 4a 34
386 With Juliet 6a+ 7
387 A merchant played in venice 4a 27
  The Retreat
389 Clean Line 5c 6
390 Mean Team 4a 6
391 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 8
392 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
393 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
394 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
395 Unfinished Business 7a+  
396 Fin de Siecle 6c+ * 2
397 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
398 Tough Looking Face 7a+  
399 The Butch Master 6b+ 2
400 Retro Rockets 6c+  
401 Let it Go 6c+  
402 Pleasant Pillar 5a  
403 The Gully Folk 6b 1
404 Sub-Atomic 7a  
405 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
406 Clay Man VS 4c 2
407 Dog Canute E1 5b * 2
408 Yardcore E3 5c 1
409 Gully Wall Right 5a 1
410 No Retreat 6a+ 3
411 Beat Retreat 6b 1
412 Couples Retreat 6b+ 2
413 Tough Face 7a  
414 VLC 6c 2
415 SLF 6a+ 2
416 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
418 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer HumphreyJ20