Climbs 375
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Restricted Access

There is no access agreement here. The landowner occasionally appears and lets people know they have no right of access.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
GargoyleFeet - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Dark Side - Upper Tier 
2It has to End Somewhere6a 2
3Will It never End4c 11
4Is this the end5a 6
5Coming to an end6a+ 10
6In My Darkest Hour5a 24
7End GamesHVS 5a  
8Endsville6a 19
9Centreville6a 11
10Preston North End6c  
11Will They?5a 2
12People Will Talk5c 63
13The Parting of the Lips5a 45
14Ear to Ear6a+ 23
15UncreasedVS 4c 4
16HairlineVS 4c 5
17The Mouth Waters6b+ *13
18I'm a Port Vale Dribbler6a 2
19George Stark Calling6a+ *56
20Metal Back CrackHVS 5a 1
21Stark Disbelief6c+ 15
22The Dark Half6b *41
23Graveyard Blues6a+ 4
24In Stark Contrast6b+ *3
25Ghost Writer5c 4
26Under the Lifeline6b  
27Over the Deadline6b 2
28Automatic Writing6a 3
29Fools Stuffing6a+ 4
30Pillar of Wisdom6b 1
31The Invasion of the Creepazoid6c+ 2
32Later That Night6b 4
33The Coming of the Sparrows5c *85
34Flight of the Finches6c  
35Stop the Pigeon6b+ 3
36Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs DeadHVS 5b 3
37Gathering Darkness6c+ *3
38A Trip on the Dark Side6a+ *61
39Feel My Presence6b+ 15
40Tapenard6b *6
41Wild Olives6b *31
42Gorignak6b *42
43Galaxy Quest5c *46
44Omega 136a+ *66
45Dr Lazarus6a+ 21
46Half and Half *6a 1
 Perched Block Buttress 
48What's the paint5a 13
49Pity The Grafitti5a 3
50Set Fred Free6a 3
51Wilky's Revenge5c 2
52Making Plans for Nidge6b  
53Helzapoppin'7a *1
54Right Said Fred6b  
55Coyote Club6a 3
56Wily Coyote (Trad)6a 3
57Wile E Coyote
-
6a *21
58Beep, Beep6a+ 14
59Road Runner
-
5a *23
60Road Runner (Trad)5a 3
61Zebedee/Running for Cover5c 24
62Balance of Actions/The Run Off4a 12
63GreensleevesVS 4b 2
 Papacy Buttress 
65Angleterre5a 12
66This England7a+ *3
67Pleasant Valley SundayE1 5b 3
68UpthrutchVS 4c *1
69Gritarete7a *4
70Snake EyesE3 5c *2
71Strangled at Birth6b+ *15
72Sincerely Yours6b *12
73I'm in the Sin Bin6a *50
74Sin CityE1 5b * 
75The Seven Deadly SinsHVS 5a **55
76Coral Seas6a ***541
77Avarice Allsorts6c+ *45
78LustVS 4c *3
79Freedom of ChoiceVS 4c 1
80Ask Mr. T for tea6c+ *3
81Rocky Variations6b ***214
82Apollo Creed6b ***172
83The Seven Deadly VirtuesE1 5b **32
84Luddite Thought PoliceE3 6a *1
85Penal ServitudeE2 5b *7
86Full Frontal6c *34
87El Camino RealE1 5b **24
88Power of Soul7b+ **19
89Dementia Normale6a *148
90The Last Straw6b 15
91Figure of Law6c+ *4
92I Am The Law6b+ *1
 Prophecy Area 
94Danny Cool5a 6
95Cool Danny6b 3
96Screaming Wheels6b *10
97Swain's World6b *10
98No Man's Land6b+ 7
99The Exclusion Zone6b+ *21
100The Iron Curtain6a+ *36
101Mouse Hunt6c **7
102Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey6a+ *7
103Thing Thang7a 4
104Thang Thing7a 3
105Slab de Lune6a 5
106Master of a Lune6b 2
107Stack of Stones6a+ *37
108Bag of Bones6a+ **108
109Plate of Scones6b+ 2
110Sara Laughs6b+ *9
111Tenth Heaven6b *3
112Calci-Mauve6b **63
113Glas Double7a *1
114Flaky PastryHVS 5a * 
115Over the Hill6c **37
116NostalgiaE4 6a **1
117The Omen6b **22
118Yogi Bare7a *19
119Four Telling Tales6c+ **32
120The Talisman6c+ *13
121Bleingassen6c *5
122The Oracle7b *3
123The Prophecy7a **28
124Supernatural6a **82
125The Indian Cottage7a 1
126What a Load of Roti6a *22
127Aloo Gobi6c 6
128Z Victor 1HVS 5a  
129Pappadum Groove6a 7
130Quartz Initial6b+ 9
131Duma Key6a *6
132Viagra Falls6c+ *7
133Different Seasons6a+ *45
134Apt Pupil6c *10
135In the Gravy6a *64
136From Cradle to Grave6c *11
137InceptionHS 4b  
138Calcite Claws6c *6
139So Veneer6b 3
140The End6a 2
 The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa 
142Skid Pan Alley5a 11
143Pole Position6a 20
144Checkered Flag5c 25
145Peter Perfect5a 25
146Penelope Pit Stop5a 11
147The Whacky Races5a 10
148The Silver Stone6a 9
149Long Playa6b *38
150Dodgem Central6b 18
151Life's a Drag6a 20
152TT Special5a 11
153Brands Hatched6a 8
154Trick Cyclist6b+ 2
155Speed Freak6b 13
156Lap Times5c 1
157Screaming TargetE3 6a 1
158Boneman ConnectionE2 5c 1
159Fist to Fist is DoneVS 4c 3
160Mikey DreadHVS 4c 1
161ScientistE1 5b 1
162Speed Trails7a *4
163Quads5a 3
164High Impact6a+ *22
 The Dark Side - Long Wall 
166In Isolation6a 2
167Can't Pin it On Me6a 1
168Grow FinsE2 5b 1
169Cats 23HVS 5a  
170Tricycle ManE2 5c  
171Get Peddling6c+ 1
172Face ValueE3 6a  
173A Dip in Turquoise NonsenseE3 6a  
174Faces in the Mirror6c  
175College CrackE1 5b 1
176Permutation WallHVS 5b 3
177Balance of Probabilities6c 2
178UpthrutchHVS 5b  
179Diamond WallE1 5b 1
180Pool Hand Fluke6a+ 1
181More Pool You6a  
182Sleeping Sickness6a 13
183My Bed's Downstairs6a 16
184Sleep On It6b 8
185Regulo Mark 66b 4
186Easy On The Gas5a 36
187The Pillar Talk6a+ 22
188The Pillar Walk5c *35
189Have we Addit
-
6a+ *6
190Addit and Scarper6a+ 11
191You've Addit6a 35
192Addit Enough5c 45
193Addit Pillar6a+ 15
194The Long Goodbye
-
6a 6
195Flexor Hallucis Longus6a 6
196Long walk off a short pier6a+ 8
197Tooooo long6a 31
198Longevity6a 19
199Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b *6
200Long Time No See6a 22
201The Long Walk6b 15
202So Long, Farewell6a 23
203Belonging5c 33
204Doh6b 15
205Mirrios *6a+ 2
206Face Value *6b+ 4
 College Buttress 
208Old Fiends6c+ 2
209Carvery6a+ 1
210The Wrong Unconquerable6b 4
211Fartless7a+  
212Strap a Doc to Me6c 1
213The Gypsy Kings6c 1
214Gooncrack6b+ *6
215Forfeit of Doom6b+  
216Meshrug a My Shoulders6b 3
217Profitless6b *2
218Merry PheasantE1 5c  
219Moontalk6b+ *2
220Frantic ManoeuvresE2 5c *1
221BonediggerE1 5b 1
222Prefect Day6b *6
223Silent Sprung6b 3
224Thirty Nine and a Half StepsE1 5b  
225White Wind6a 8
 The Lower Tier 
227Thank-you Grooves5a 4
228Wallaclism6b  
229Arteaclism6a+ 1
230Overbored5a *94
231Gatting the Groove5c 102
232Mine Anarchy5c 139
233Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do6b *86
234Always Break the Rules5c *173
235Snap Decision5c 129
236The Candyman6a+ *89
237Flossy's Slab6a+ *131
238Toy Story6a 85
239Suck on This6a+ *74
240Jelly Beans6a+ 25
241Smartie People are Happy People6a *113
242Candy Store6a *86
243Tempting Children6c+ 7
244Would you like a Sweety6c *49
245Bolts 'R' Us6b *48
246Sing for Your Dinner6b+ *7
247Do Little6a 7
248Playground Bully6b+ 2
249The Sweat Shop6a 3
250Totti for England4a 35
251A Bit of Totty6a+ 63
252Top Totty5a *161
253Jelly Tots5a 116
254Tiny Tots6a *115
255Teeny Tots6a 73
256The Jap's Eyes are on You6b+ 8
257Outside Tokyo6b 26
258Nagasaki Grooves II6b 21
259Sumo7a *17
260A Nip in the Air6b 9
261Geisha Grooves6a 35
262Saweno Gancho6c *6
263Setting Sons6a 29
264The Golden Goose5a 50
265Hong Kong Fewy6a+ 51
266The Rising Sun5a 69
267Kamikaze Clone6a 37
268Shang-Hai6b  
269Riding Shogun6a+ *16
270Fuji Fantastic6a 1
271Picture This6a 1
272JokoharmaVS 5a 1
273The Bullet7a  
 Cairn Area 
275Inconsiderate Blinking6a+ 3
276Hey Diddle DiddleE1 5b *1
277Unilateral Thinking6c 2
278Pell MellE3 5c 1
279The Light7a *2
280Take Flight6c+ 2
281Buxton Goes French6b+ 3
282Outer Limits6b **9
283Twilight Zone6a+ 4
284Argy Bargy5a 19
285The Misfits6a 42
286Hissing Sid6b 54
287Slippery BillHVS 5a 4
288Ratline7b+ **50
289Cairn7a ***228
290Stealth7a+ **9
291Great White6a 113
292Orca6a+ 9
293The Naked Spur5a *166
294Assault and Battery6b+ 5
295Trial and Error7a 6
296Senile Delinquents5c **175
297Cabin Fever6b 40
298UnknownS 3
299Fred FlintstoneVS 4b 18
300Barney RubbleVS 4c 7
301Yabba Dabba Doo!HS 4b 5
302Breakfast at Safeways6b *71
303Jam Butty Mines CrackVS 4c *26
30499p Special6b 60
305Food for Sport6a *64
306Over Easy6a 4
307Full set6a+ 27
308Short Sport6b 7
 The Sanctuary 
310By Caesarean5c 92
311New Arrivals6a+ 65
312Expecting5a 177
313Induction Program5a 115
314Premature6a 56
315Safe Haven5c 115
316The Hollow Man5a 126
317Christian Salvage Man6a *169
318Which Depp-Artment6a+ 91
319Ichabod5c 84
320Sleepy Hollow6a+ *115
321Bonny Helena5a 35
322Gone for a Tim Burton5a *149
323The Height Below5a 105
324The Sanctuarian6c 30
325For Haven's Sake6b *67
326Downtown6b *74
327What Lies Beneath6b 30
328Haven or Hell6a 21
 The Playground 
330Sons of the DesertVS 4c 2
331Duelling TrousersHVS 5a 1
332Edge Play5a 16
333Play Doh6a 15
334Helter Skelterer6a+ 2
335Groovy Player6a+ 1
336Movie Player6a 20
337Hard Player6b+ 10
338I'm not a player4a 23
339Playground Attraction7a+ 1
340The Hex6c+ 1
341Ripsaw6c+ 1
342E for FrictionE1 5b 1
343Terror of the Towers7a 4
344Whose is Casey ?6a 17
345Leben Tod6a+ 13
346Pinball Wizard6b  
347That Ball, LoveVS 4b 1
348Clackers Sprained my KnackersS 1
349Hamlet, Prince of Players6a+ 3
350William's Plays Shakespeare6a+ 2
351Flog the Lune6a 14
352A Comedy Of Played Errors6a+ 4
353Did Romeo Play4a 28
354With Juliet6a+ 7
355A merchant played in venice4a 23
 The Retreat 
357Clean Line5c 4
358Mean Team4a 4
359Cart the Wheel6a+ 5
360Jamma yer Hut6a+ 4
361Slip Yer Foot6a+ 4
362Bust yer Gut6b+ 1
363Unfinished Business7a+  
364Fin de Siecle6c+ * 
365Combien de Siecle7a+  
366Tough Looking Face7a+  
367The Butch Master6b+ 1
368Retro Rockets6c+  
369Let it Go6c+  
370Pleasant Pillar5a  
371The Gully Folk6b 1
372Sub-Atomic7a  
373Atomic Tommy CooperE2 5c 1
374Clay ManVS 4c 1
375Dog CanuteE1 5b *1
376YardcoreE3 5c 1
377Gully Wall Right5a 1
378No Retreat6a+ 3
379Beat Retreat6b 1
380Couples Retreat6b+ 1
381Tough Face7a  
382VLC6c 1
383SLF6a+ 1
384MLT4a 1
 Unknown Routes 
386Pebble dashedS 4a *1
387Crazy Paving *E2 5b 1
388Tricycle Man Direct *6b+ 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall