UKC

Climbs 397
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Access Advice

The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
Paul16 - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dark Side - Upper Tier
2 The End is Nigh 5a 1
3 Ending Now 6a * 1
4 Euroman Endeth 4a 1
5 Endeth
-
5a 1
6 It has to End Somewhere 6a 2
7 Will It never End 4c 22
8 Is this the end 5a 15
9 Coming to an end 6a+ 12
10 In My Darkest Hour 5a 32
11 End Games HVS 5a  
12 Endsville 6a 28
13 Centreville 6a 14
14 Preston North End 6c  
15 Will They? 5a 3
16 People Will Talk 5c 74
17 The Parting of the Lips 5a 51
18 Ear to Ear 6a+ 27
19 Uncreased VS 4c 4
20 Hairline VS 4c 5
21 The Mouth Waters 6b+ * 17
22 I'm a Port Vale Dribbler 6a 5
23 George Stark Calling 6a+ * 68
24 Metal Back Crack HVS 5a 1
25 Stark Disbelief 6c+ 16
26 The Dark Half 6b * 50
27 Graveyard Blues 6a+ 4
28 In Stark Contrast 6b+ * 3
29 Ghost Writer 5c 4
30 Under the Lifeline 6b  
31 Over the Deadline 6b 2
32 Automatic Writing 6a 3
33 Fools Stuffing 6a+ 4
34 Pillar of Wisdom 6b 1
35 The Invasion of the Creepazoid 6c+ 2
36 Later That Night 6b 5
37 The Coming of the Sparrows 5c * 108
38 Flight of the Finches 6c  
39 Stop the Pigeon 6b+ 3
40 Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs Dead HVS 5b 3
41 Gathering Darkness 6c+ * 4
42 A Trip on the Dark Side 6a+ * 77
43 Feel My Presence 6b+ 16
44 Tapenard 6b * 15
45 Half and Half 6a 2
46 Wild Olives 6b * 39
47 Gorignak 6b * 60
48 Galaxy Quest 5c * 91
49 Omega 13 6a+ * 106
50 Dr Lazarus 6a+ 32
51 Rawlinson End * 5b 1
52 Dark End * 6a+ * 1
  Perched Block Buttress
54 What's the paint 5a 18
55 Pity The Grafitti 5a 6
56 Set Fred Free 6a 7
57 Wilky's Revenge 5c 5
58 Making Plans for Nidge 6b 1
59 Helzapoppin' 7a *  
60 Right Said Fred 6b  
61 Coyote Club 6a 5
62 Wily Coyote (Trad) 6a 3
63 Wile E Coyote
-
6a * 61
64 Beep, Beep 6a+ 45
65 Road Runner 5a * 67
66 Road Runner (Trad) 5a 4
67 Zebedee/Running for Cover 5c 77
68 Balance of Actions/The Run Off 4a 31
69 Greensleeves VS 4b 6
70 Gee Whiz-z-z-z-z-z *
-
6b  
71 Fast and Furry-ous *
-
6a  
72 Elmer Thud *
-
5a  
  Papacy Buttress
74 Angleterre 5a 18
75 This England 7a+ * 3
76 Pleasant Valley Sunday E1 5b 3
77 Upthrutch VS 4c * 1
78 Gritarete 7a * 5
79 Snake Eyes E3 5c * 2
80 Strangled at Birth 6b+ * 20
81 Sincerely Yours 6b * 20
82 I'm in the Sin Bin 6a * 78
83 Sin City E1 5b *  
84 Insincerely 6b  
85 The Seven Deadly Sins HVS 5a ** 62
86 The Seven Deadly Sins Direct E1 5b  
87 Coral Seas 6a *** 707
88 Avarice Allsorts 6c+ * 58
89 Lust VS 4c * 4
90 Freedom of Choice VS 4c 1
91 Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ * 6
92 Rocky Variations 6b *** 273
93 Apollo Creed 6b *** 231
94 The Seven Deadly Virtues E1 5b ** 40
95 Luddite Thought Police E3 6a * 1
96 Penal Servitude E2 5b * 7
97 Full Frontal 6c * 44
98 El Camino Real E1 5b ** 33
99 Power of Soul 7b+ ** 23
100 Dementia Normale 6a * 174
101 The Last Straw 6b 15
102 Figure of Law 6c+ * 5
103 I Am The Law 6b+ * 3
  Prophecy Area
105 Danny Cool 5a 10
106 Cool Danny 6b 3
107 Screaming Wheels 6b * 10
108 Swain's World 6b * 20
109 No Man's Land 6b+ 8
110 The Exclusion Zone 6b+ * 28
111 The Iron Curtain 6a+ * 42
112 Mouse Hunt 6c ** 7
113 Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey 6a+ * 8
114 Thing Thang 7a 4
115 Thang Thing 7a 3
116 Slab de Lune 6a 5
117 Master of a Lune 6b 3
118 Stack of Stones 6a+ * 48
119 Bag of Bones 6a+ ** 154
120 Plate of Scones 6b+ 2
121 Sara Laughs 6b+ * 10
122 Tenth Heaven 6b * 4
123 Calci-Mauve 6b ** 92
124 Glas Double 7a * 1
125 Flaky Pastry HVS 5a *  
126 Over the Hill 6c ** 48
127 Nostalgia E4 6a ** 4
128 The Omen 6b ** 37
129 Yogi Bare 7a * 22
130 Four Telling Tales 6c+ ** 36
131 The Talisman 6c+ * 15
132 Bleingassen 6c * 10
133 The Oracle 7b * 3
134 The Prophecy 7a ** 34
135 Supernatural 6a ** 113
136 The Indian Cottage 7a 1
137 What a Load of Roti 6a * 26
Climb name Grade
138 Aloo Gobi 6c 7
139 Z Victor 1 HVS 5a  
140 Pappadum Groove 6a 8
141 Quartz Initial 6b+ 10
142 Duma Key 6a * 10
143 Viagra Falls 6c+ * 9
144 Different Seasons 6a+ * 53
145 Apt Pupil 6c * 11
146 In the Gravy 6a * 69
147 From Cradle to Grave 6c * 11
148 Inception HS 4b  
149 Calcite Claws 6c * 7
150 So Veneer 6b 4
151 The End 6a 2
  The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa
153 Skid Pan Alley 5a 11
154 Pole Position 6a 26
155 Checkered Flag 5c 33
156 Peter Perfect 5a 31
157 Penelope Pit Stop 5a 11
158 The Whacky Races 5a 12
159 The Silver Stone 6a 14
160 Long Playa 6b * 62
161 Silvery Stone 6a 10
162 Dodgem Central 6b 26
163 Life's a Drag 6a 38
164 TT Special 5a 14
165 Brands Hatched 6a 14
166 Trick Cyclist 6b+ 4
167 Speed Freak 6b 16
168 Lap Times 5c 3
169 Screaming Target E3 6a 1
170 Brooklands 6b 3
171 Boneman Connection E2 5c 1
172 Fist to Fist is Done VS 4c 3
173 Mikey Dread HVS 4c 1
174 Scientist E1 5b 1
175 Speed Trails 7a * 5
176 Quads 5a 3
177 High Impact 6a+ * 26
  The Dark Side - Long Wall
179 In Isolation 6a 2
180 Can't Pin it On Me 6a 2
181 Grow Fins E2 5b 1
182 Mirrios 6a+ 2
183 Cats 23 HVS 5a  
184 Tricycle Man E2 5c  
185 Tricycle Man Direct 6b+ 6
186 Get Peddling 6c+ 1
187 Face Value 6b+ 9
188 Face Value E3 6a  
189 A Dip in Turquoise Nonsense E3 6a 1
190 Faces in the Mirror 6c 1
191 College Crack E1 5b 1
192 Permutation Wall HVS 5b 3
193 More Permutations 6b * 3
194 Balance of Probabilities 6c 4
195 Upthrutch HVS 5b  
196 Diamond Wall E1 5b 1
197 Pool Hand Fluke 6a+ 1
198 More Pool You 6a  
199 Sleeping Sickness 6a 20
200 My Bed's Downstairs 6a 24
201 Sleep On It 6b 13
202 Regulo Mark 6 6b 13
203 Easy On The Gas 5a 62
204 The Pillar Talk 6a+ 41
205 The Pillar Walk 5c * 50
206 Have we Addit
-
6a+ * 11
207 Addit and Scarper 6a+ 20
208 You've Addit 6a 67
209 Addit Enough 5c 71
210 Addit Pillar 6a+ 24
211 Novicok Stone 6b 5
212 The Long Goodbye
-
6a 9
213 Flexor Hallucis Longus 6a 11
214 Long walk off a short pier 6a+ 28
215 Tooooo long 6a 67
216 Longevity 6a 36
217 Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b * 16
218 Long Time No See 6a 61
219 The Long Walk 6b 40
220 So Long, Farewell 6a 67
221 Belonging 5c 68
222 A Dea 6a * 10
223 Doh 6b 42
224 Crustyland 6b 5
225 Woo Hoo 5a 8
226 Have Another Cow *
-
4a  
  College Buttress
228 Old Fiends 6c+ 2
229 Carvery 6a+ 4
230 The Wrong Unconquerable 6b 5
231 Fartless 7a+  
232 Strap a Doc to Me 6c 2
233 The Gypsy Kings 6c 3
234 Gooncrack 6b+ * 9
235 Forfeit of Doom 6b+ 1
236 Meshrug a My Shoulders 6b 4
237 Profitless 6b * 13
238 Merry Pheasant E1 5c  
239 Moontalk 6b+ * 7
240 Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c * 1
241 Bonedigger E1 5b 1
242 Prefect Day 6b * 22
243 Silent Sprung 6b 12
244 Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b  
245 White Wind 6a 13
  The Lower Tier
247 Thank-you Grooves 5a 7
248 Wallaclism 6b 1
249 Arteaclism 6a+ 1
250 Overbored 5a * 117
251 Gatting the Groove 5c 122
252 Mine Anarchy 5c 160
253 Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do 6b * 100
254 Always Break the Rules 5c * 203
255 Snap Decision 5c 152
256 The Candyman 6a+ * 111
257 Flossy's Slab 6a+ * 155
258 Toy Story 6a 94
259 Suck on This 6a+ * 83
260 Jelly Beans 6a+ 34
261 Smartie People are Happy People 6a * 142
262 Candy Store 6a * 102
263 Tempting Children 6c+ 9
264 Would you like a Sweety 6c * 57
265 Bolts 'R' Us 6b * 60
266 Sing for Your Dinner 6b+ * 11
267 Do Little 6a 11
268 Playground Bully 6b+ 2
269 The Sweat Shop 6a 5
270 Totti for England 4a 54
271 A Bit of Totty 6a+ 75
272 Top Totty 5a * 190
273 Jelly Tots 5a 130
274 Tiny Tots 6a * 142
Climb name Grade
275 Teeny Tots 6a 91
276 The Jap's Eyes are on You 6b+ 10
277 Outside Tokyo 6b 29
278 Nagasaki Grooves II 6b 22
279 Sumo 7a * 17
280 A Nip in the Air 6b 9
281 Geisha Grooves 6a 38
282 Saweno Gancho 6c * 7
283 Setting Sons 6a 32
284 The Golden Goose 5a 58
285 Hong Kong Fewy 6a+ 55
286 The Rising Sun 5a 78
287 Kamikaze Clone 6a 41
288 Shang-Hai 6b 1
289 Riding Shogun 6a+ * 21
290 Fuji Fantastic 6a 1
291 Picture This 6a 1
292 Jokoharma VS 5a 1
293 The Bullet 7a  
  Cairn Area
295 Inconsiderate Blinking 6a+ 3
296 Hey Diddle Diddle E1 5b * 1
297 Unilateral Thinking 6c 2
298 Pell Mell E3 5c 1
299 The Light 7a * 3
300 Take Flight 6c+ 2
301 Buxton Goes French 6b+ 3
302 Outer Limits 6b ** 16
303 Twilight Zone 6a+ 5
304 Argy Bargy 5a 28
305 The Misfits 6a 44
306 Hissing Sid 6b 66
307 Slippery Bill HVS 5a 4
308 Ratline 7b+ ** 71
309 Cairn 7a *** 309
310 Stealth 7a+ ** 14
311 Great White 6a 129
312 Orca 6a+ 9
313 The Naked Spur 5a * 199
314 The Driving Board 5a 1
315 Assault and Battery 6b+ 6
316 Ground and Pound 6a * 3
317 Trial and Error 7a 6
318 Senile Delinquents 5c ** 239
319 Cabin Fever 6b 49
320 Unknown S 5
321 Fred Flintstone VS 4b 20
322 Barney Rubble VS 4c 8
323 Yabba Dabba Doo! HS 4b 6
324 Breakfast at Safeways 6b * 81
325 Jam Butty Mines Crack VS 4c * 27
326 99p Special 6b 66
327 Food for Sport 6a * 85
328 Over Easy 6a 6
329 Full set 6a+ 32
330 Short Sport 6b 9
  The Sanctuary
332 By Caesarean 5c 98
333 New Arrivals 6a+ 73
334 Expecting 5a 194
335 Induction Program 5a 125
336 Premature 6a 70
337 Safe Haven 5c 126
338 The Hollow Man 5a 146
339 Christian Salvage Man 6a * 207
340 Which Depp-Artment 6a+ 114
341 Ichabod 5c 99
342 Sleepy Hollow 6a+ * 132
343 Bonny Helena 5a 43
344 Gone for a Tim Burton 5a * 181
345 The Height Below 5a 124
346 The Sanctuarian 6c 39
347 For Haven's Sake 6b * 81
348 Downtown 6b * 85
349 What Lies Beneath 6b 36
350 Haven or Hell 6a 23
  The Playground
352 Sons of the Desert VS 4c 2
353 Duelling Trousers HVS 5a 1
354 Crazy Paving E2 5b 1
355 Edge Play 5a 26
356 Play Doh 6a 20
357 Helter Skelterer 6a+ 5
358 Groovy Player 6a+ 1
359 Movie Player 6a 23
360 Hard Player 6b+ 10
361 I'm not a player 4a 25
362 Playground Attraction 7a+ 1
363 The Hex 6c+ 1
364 Ripsaw 6c+ 1
365 E for Friction E1 5b 1
366 Terror of the Towers 7a 5
367 Whose is Casey ? 6a 19
368 Leben Tod 6a+ 13
369 Pinball Wizard 6b  
370 That Ball, Love VS 4b 1
371 Clackers Sprained my Knackers S 1
372 Hamlet, Prince of Players 6a+ 4
373 William's Plays Shakespeare 6a+ 2
374 Flog the Lune 6a 14
375 A Comedy Of Played Errors 6a+ 4
376 Did Romeo Play 4a 33
377 With Juliet 6a+ 7
378 A merchant played in venice 4a 26
  The Retreat
380 Clean Line 5c 6
381 Mean Team 4a 6
382 Cart the Wheel 6a+ 8
383 Jamma yer Hut 6a+ 5
384 Slip Yer Foot 6a+ 5
385 Bust yer Gut 6b+ 1
386 Unfinished Business 7a+  
387 Fin de Siecle 6c+ * 2
388 Combien de Siecle 7a+ 1
389 Tough Looking Face 7a+  
390 The Butch Master 6b+ 1
391 Retro Rockets 6c+  
392 Let it Go 6c+  
393 Pleasant Pillar 5a  
394 The Gully Folk 6b 1
395 Sub-Atomic 7a  
396 Atomic Tommy Cooper E2 5c 1
397 Clay Man VS 4c 1
398 Dog Canute E1 5b * 2
399 Yardcore E3 5c 1
400 Gully Wall Right 5a 1
401 No Retreat 6a+ 3
402 Beat Retreat 6b 1
403 Couples Retreat 6b+ 1
404 Tough Face 7a  
405 VLC 6c 1
406 SLF 6a+ 1
407 MLT 4a 3
  Unknown Routes
409 Pebble dashed S 4a * 1
410 Endor * 6b+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall