Climbs 371
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NE

Sanctuary wall in the evening sun © ipblake

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then!

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right. The industrial estate is private land and you risk being clamped. It's better to park in the village and walk up if possible.

Restricted Access

There is no access agreement here. The landowner occasionally appears and lets people know they have no right of access.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
After climbing at beautiful crags like the Roaches, Harpur Hill is a bit of a shock but the climbing is awesome. One word of caution - the run outs can be a bit harrowing. All adds to the experience though and will return here many times. Many thanks to the people who maintain the bolts.
GargoyleFeet - 09/Sep/15
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Dark Side - Upper Tier 
2It has to End Somewhere6a 2
3Will It never End4c 10
4Is this the end5a 5
5Coming to an end6a+ 10
6In My Darkest Hour5a 23
7End GamesHVS 5a  
8Endsville6a 18
9Centreville6a 11
10Preston North End6c  
11Will They?5a 2
12People Will Talk5c 62
13The Parting of the Lips5a 45
14Ear to Ear6a+ 23
15UncreasedVS 4c 4
16HairlineVS 4c 5
17The Mouth Waters6b+ *13
18I'm a Port Vale Dribbler6a 2
19George Stark Calling6a+ *56
20Metal Back CrackHVS 5a 1
21Stark Disbelief6c+ 15
22The Dark Half6b *41
23Graveyard Blues6a+ 4
24In Stark Contrast6b+ *3
25Ghost Writer5c 3
26Under the Lifeline6b  
27Over the Deadline6b 2
28Automatic Writing6a 3
29Fools Stuffing6a+ 4
30Pillar of Wisdom6b 1
31The Invasion of the Creepazoid6c+ 2
32Later That Night6b 4
33The Coming of the Sparrows5c *85
34Flight of the Finches6c  
35Stop the Pigeon6b+ 3
36Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs DeadHVS 5b 3
37Gathering Darkness6c+ *3
38A Trip on the Dark Side6a+ *61
39Feel My Presence6b+ 15
40Tapenard6b *6
41Wild Olives6b *32
42Gorignak6b *42
43Galaxy Quest5c *45
44Omega 136a+ *67
45Dr Lazarus6a+ 20
 Perched Block Buttress 
47What's the paint5a 13
48Pity The Grafitti5a 3
49Set Fred Free6a 3
50Wilky's Revenge5c 2
51Making Plans for Nidge6b  
52Helzapoppin'7a *1
53Right Said Fred6b  
54Coyote Club6a 3
55Wily Coyote (Trad)6a 3
56Wile E Coyote
-
6a *21
57Beep, Beep6a+ 15
58Road Runner
-
5a *21
59Road Runner (Trad)5a 3
60Zebedee/Running for Cover5c 25
61Balance of Actions/The Run Off4a 12
62GreensleevesVS 4b 2
 Papacy Buttress 
64Angleterre5a 8
65This England7a+ *3
66Pleasant Valley SundayE1 5b 3
67UpthrutchVS 4c *1
68Gritarete7a *4
69Snake EyesE3 5c *2
70Strangled at Birth6b+ *15
71Sincerely Yours6b *12
72I'm in the Sin Bin6a *51
73Sin CityE1 5b * 
74The Seven Deadly SinsHVS 5a **53
75Coral Seas6a ***555
76Avarice Allsorts6c+ *46
77LustVS 4c *3
78Freedom of ChoiceVS 4c 1
79Ask Mr. T for tea6c+ *3
80Rocky Variations6b ***227
81Apollo Creed6b ***191
82The Seven Deadly VirtuesE1 5b **31
83Luddite Thought PoliceE3 6a *1
84Penal ServitudeE2 5b *7
85Full Frontal6c *36
86El Camino RealE1 5b **23
87Power of Soul7b+ **18
88Dementia Normale6a *147
89The Last Straw6b 15
90Figure of Law6c+ *3
91I Am The Law6b+ *1
 Prophecy Area 
93Danny Cool5a 5
94Cool Danny6b 3
95Screaming Wheels6b *10
96Swain's World6b *10
97No Man's Land6b+ 7
98The Exclusion Zone6b+ *21
99The Iron Curtain6a+ *35
100Mouse Hunt6c **7
101Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey6a+ *7
102Thing Thang7a 4
103Thang Thing7a 3
104Slab de Lune6a 5
105Master of a Lune6b 2
106Stack of Stones6a+ *36
107Bag of Bones6a+ **111
108Plate of Scones6b+ 2
109Sara Laughs6b+ *9
110Tenth Heaven6b *3
111Calci-Mauve6b **65
112Glas Double7a *1
113Flaky PastryHVS 5a * 
114Over the Hill6c **42
115NostalgiaE4 6a **1
116The Omen6b **23
117Yogi Bare7a *20
118Four Telling Tales6c+ **33
119The Talisman6c+ *13
120Bleingassen6c *4
121The Oracle7b *3
122The Prophecy7a **28
123Supernatural6a **81
124The Indian Cottage7a 1
125What a Load of Roti6a *22
126Aloo Gobi6c 6
127Z Victor 1HVS 5a  
128Pappadum Groove6a 7
129Quartz Initial6b+ 8
130Duma Key6a *6
131Viagra Falls6c+ *7
132Different Seasons6a+ *45
133Apt Pupil6c *10
134In the Gravy6a *63
135From Cradle to Grave6c *11
136InceptionHS 4b  
137Calcite Claws6c *6
138So Veneer6b 3
139The End6a 2
 The Dark Side - The Racetrack Playa 
141Skid Pan Alley5a 11
142Pole Position6a 19
143Checkered Flag5c 25
144Peter Perfect5a 25
145Penelope Pit Stop5a 11
146The Whacky Races5a 10
147The Silver Stone6a 9
148Long Playa6b *37
149Dodgem Central6b 18
150Life's a Drag6a 19
151TT Special5a 11
152Brands Hatched6a 8
153Trick Cyclist6b+ 2
154Speed Freak6b 13
155Lap Times5c 1
156Screaming TargetE3 6a 1
157Boneman ConnectionE2 5c 1
158Fist to Fist is DoneVS 4c 3
159Mikey DreadHVS 4c 1
160ScientistE1 5b 1
161Speed Trails7a *4
162Quads5a 3
163High Impact6a+ *22
 The Dark Side - Long Wall 
165In Isolation6a 2
166Can't Pin it On Me6a 1
167Grow FinsE2 5b 1
168Cats 23HVS 5a  
169Tricycle ManE2 5c  
170Get Peddling6c+  
171Face ValueE3 6a  
172A Dip in Turquoise NonsenseE3 6a  
173Faces in the Mirror6c  
174College CrackE1 5b 1
175Permutation WallHVS 5b 3
176Balance of Probabilities6c  
177UpthrutchHVS 5b  
178Diamond WallE1 5b 1
179Pool Hand Fluke6a+ 1
180More Pool You6a  
181Sleeping Sickness6a 9
182My Bed's Downstairs6a 12
183Sleep On It6b 8
184Regulo Mark 66b 3
185Easy On The Gas5a 33
186The Pillar Talk6a+ 22
187The Pillar Walk5c *34
188Have we Addit
-
6a+ *6
189Addit and Scarper6a+ 10
190You've Addit6a 35
191Addit Enough5c 40
192Addit Pillar6a+ 12
193The Long Goodbye
-
6a 6
194Flexor Hallucis Longus6a 5
195Long walk off a short pier6a+ 7
196Tooooo long6a 28
197Longevity6a 18
198Knight of the Long Knives
-
6b *6
199Long Time No See6a 18
200The Long Walk6b 11
201So Long, Farewell6a 17
202Belonging5c 29
203Doh6b 14
 College Buttress 
205Old Fiends6c+ 1
206Carvery6a+ 1
207The Wrong Unconquerable6b 3
208Fartless7a+  
209Strap a Doc to Me6c 1
210The Gypsy Kings6c 1
211Gooncrack6b+ *6
212Forfeit of Doom6b+  
213Meshrug a My Shoulders6b 3
214Profitless6b *2
215Merry PheasantE1 5c  
216Moontalk6b+ *2
217Frantic ManoeuvresE2 5c *1
218BonediggerE1 5b 1
219Prefect Day6b *6
220Silent Sprung6b 3
221Thirty Nine and a Half StepsE1 5b  
222White Wind6a 8
 The Lower Tier 
224Thank-you Grooves5a 4
225Wallaclism6b  
226Arteaclism6a+ 1
227Overbored5a *94
228Gatting the Groove5c 102
229Mine Anarchy5c 139
230Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do6b *86
231Always Break the Rules5c *172
232Snap Decision5c 128
233The Candyman6a+ *89
234Flossy's Slab6a+ *131
235Toy Story6a 84
236Suck on This6a+ *74
237Jelly Beans6a+ 25
238Smartie People are Happy People6a *113
239Candy Store6a *85
240Tempting Children6c+ 7
241Would you like a Sweety6c *49
242Bolts 'R' Us6b *49
243Sing for Your Dinner6b+ *7
244Do Little6a 7
245Playground Bully6b+ 2
246The Sweat Shop6a 3
247Totti for England4a 35
248A Bit of Totty6a+ 63
249Top Totty5a *161
250Jelly Tots5a 117
251Tiny Tots6a *115
252Teeny Tots6a 72
253The Jap's Eyes are on You6b+ 8
254Outside Tokyo6b 25
255Nagasaki Grooves II6b 21
256Sumo7a *17
257A Nip in the Air6b 8
258Geisha Grooves6a 35
259Saweno Gancho6c *6
260Setting Sons6a 29
261The Golden Goose5a 51
262Hong Kong Fewy6a+ 52
263The Rising Sun5a 69
264Kamikaze Clone6a 37
265Shang-Hai6b  
266Riding Shogun6a+ *16
267Fuji Fantastic6a 1
268Picture This6a 1
269JokoharmaVS 5a 1
270The Bullet7a  
 Cairn Area 
272Inconsiderate Blinking6a+ 3
273Hey Diddle DiddleE1 5b *1
274Unilateral Thinking6c 2
275Pell MellE3 5c 1
276The Light7a *1
277Take Flight6c+ 2
278Buxton Goes French6b+ 3
279Outer Limits6b **9
280Twilight Zone6a+ 4
281Argy Bargy5a 17
282The Misfits6a 42
283Hissing Sid6b 54
284Slippery BillHVS 5a 4
285Ratline7b+ **46
286Cairn7a ***281
287Stealth7a+ **9
288Great White6a 113
289Orca6a+ 9
290The Naked Spur5a *167
291Assault and Battery6b+ 4
292Trial and Error7a 6
293Senile Delinquents5c **178
294Cabin Fever6b 39
295UnknownS 3
296Fred FlintstoneVS 4b 18
297Barney RubbleVS 4c 7
298Yabba Dabba Doo!HS 4b 5
299Breakfast at Safeways6b *71
300Jam Butty Mines CrackVS 4c *27
30199p Special6b 59
302Food for Sport6a *62
303Over Easy6a 3
304Full set6a+ 26
305Short Sport6b 7
 The Sanctuary 
307By Caesarean5c 88
308New Arrivals6a+ 63
309Expecting5a 175
310Induction Program5a 112
311Premature6a 52
312Safe Haven5c 109
313The Hollow Man5a 122
314Christian Salvage Man6a *161
315Which Depp-Artment6a+ 85
316Ichabod5c 79
317Sleepy Hollow6a+ *113
318Bonny Helena5a 31
319Gone for a Tim Burton5a *145
320The Height Below5a 104
321The Sanctuarian6c 28
322For Haven's Sake6b *63
323Downtown6b *72
324What Lies Beneath6b 28
325Haven or Hell6a 19
 The Playground 
327Sons of the DesertVS 4c 2
328Duelling TrousersHVS 5a 1
329Edge Play5a 15
330Play Doh6a 15
331Helter Skelterer6a+ 2
332Groovy Player6a+ 1
333Movie Player6a 18
334Hard Player6b+ 8
335I'm not a player4a 24
336Playground Attraction7a+ 1
337The Hex6c+ 1
338Ripsaw6c+ 1
339E for FrictionE1 5b 1
340Terror of the Towers7a 3
341Whose is Casey ?6a 17
342Leben Tod6a+ 13
343Pinball Wizard6b  
344That Ball, LoveVS 4b 1
345Clackers Sprained my KnackersS 1
346Hamlet, Prince of Players6a+ 3
347William's Plays Shakespeare6a+ 2
348Flog the Lune6a 14
349A Comedy Of Played Errors6a+ 4
350Did Romeo Play4a 28
351With Juliet6a+ 7
352A merchant played in venice4a 24
 The Retreat 
354Clean Line5c 4
355Mean Team4a 4
356Cart the Wheel6a+ 5
357Jamma yer Hut6a+ 4
358Slip Yer Foot6a+ 4
359Bust yer Gut6b+ 1
360Unfinished Business7a+  
361Fin de Siecle6c+ * 
362Combien de Siecle7a+  
363Tough Looking Face7a+  
364The Butch Master6b+ 1
365Retro Rockets6c+  
366Let it Go6c+  
367Pleasant Pillar5a  
368The Gully Folk6b 1
369Sub-Atomic7a  
370Atomic Tommy CooperE2 5c 1
371Clay ManVS 4c 1
372Dog CanuteE1 5b *1
373YardcoreE3 5c 1
374Gully Wall Right5a 1
375No Retreat6a+ 3
376Beat Retreat6b 1
377Couples Retreat6b+ 1
378Tough Face7a  
379VLC6c 1
380SLF6a+ 1
381MLT4a 1
 Unknown Routes 
383Pebble dashedS 4a *1
384Crazy Paving *E2 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall