22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via hard moves on poor footholds. Continue direct via more hard and reachy moves to pull onto the slab and an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1988. It has become much harder since the first ascent.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
g2 26 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to really establish it as an 8a. Placing the size 1 wire on the lead doesn't make any physiological difference. Its a route with a similar problem to Sturgeon, The Embankment, Cheedale - the debate will go on and on over the grade, but hand on heart 7c+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to really establish it as an 8a. Placing the size 1 wire on the lead doesn't make any physiological difference. Its a route with a similar problem to Sturgeon, The Embankment, Cheedale - the debate will go on and on over the grade, but hand on heart 7c+.
teddy 9 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: V. height dependant on both hard bits. I reckon 8a for those who can't keep feet on big footholds on bottom crux and can't do big reach off left sidepull/u'cut higher up. For those ppl who can do these reaches OK I now reckon only 7c+ as these moves are not 6c like u would normally expect on an 8a and its not really that steep/ sustained like other 8a's which have only 6b moves (eg. Raindogs) plus it has some big shakeout jugs. (Ignore earlier comments above - In Brine has since got harder due to loss of holds and is now 8a).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: V. height dependant on both hard bits. I reckon 8a for those who can't keep feet on big footholds on bottom crux and can't do big reach off left sidepull/u'cut higher up. For those ppl who can do these reaches OK I now reckon only 7c+ as these moves are not 6c like u would normally expect on an 8a and its not really that steep/ sustained like other 8a's which have only 6b moves (eg. Raindogs) plus it has some big shakeout jugs. (Ignore earlier comments above - In Brine has since got harder due to loss of holds and is now 8a).
carl dawson 15 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Harder to use the decent footholds if you're shorter; hence difference in opinion on the grade... quite height-specific.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder to use the decent footholds if you're shorter; hence difference in opinion on the grade... quite height-specific.
teddy 29 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: People say this is definitely 8a due to holds coming off plus it has always been 8a anyway! Harder than its neighbour In Brine which just doesn't cut it at 8a and weighs in at tough 7c+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: People say this is definitely 8a due to holds coming off plus it has always been 8a anyway! Harder than its neighbour In Brine which just doesn't cut it at 8a and weighs in at tough 7c+.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
felixwilkins 6 Sep Lead RP
Maynard 14 Jul Lead RP So pleased. Power endurance improvements over the last couple of months and some readjusted beta for the top to make it bombproof meant it went very smoothly!
So pleased. Power endurance improvements over the last couple of months and some readjusted beta for the top to make it bombproof meant it went very smoothly!
bustermartin 5 Jun - Desperate
Desperate
MathewWright1998 24 Mar Lead RP First sport of the year. Pumped! Brill climbing
First sport of the year. Pumped! Brill climbing
phillipwright 24 Nov, 2018 Lead RP Really happy to get this. First tried it in June, continued to work it through July until a finger injury made me take a long time off. Started working it again this month, and with a bit of new beta from some fresh eyes (thanks Joe) managed to get the send. Thanks to all the belaying from Jon and the rest of the crew for keeping the psyche strong. First 8a!
Really happy to get this. First tried it in June, continued to work it through July until a finger injury made me take a long time off. Started working it again this month, and with a bit of new beta from some fresh eyes (thanks Joe) managed to get the send. Thanks to all the belaying from Jon and the rest of the crew for keeping the psyche strong. First 8a!
joe1joe1joe2 24 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 24 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 17 Oct, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Jonathan Bean 22 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Holly
with Holly
samrad 20 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with john
with john
dom_joyce265 10 Jul, 2018 Lead dog think this was my 4th or 5th session. Got the top half clean now. Just need to piece together the first and second halves.
with Ako
think this was my 4th or 5th session. Got the top half clean now. Just need to piece together the first and second halves.
with Ako
phillipwright 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
John_Beesley 9 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 4 sessions but never got tired of this one. Incredible moves. So chuffed! Not usually my style of route either! Also, sorry for all the 7C+ and bin votes! A lot of my "friends" thought it would be funny...
4 sessions but never got tired of this one. Incredible moves. So chuffed! Not usually my style of route either! Also, sorry for all the 7C+ and bin votes! A lot of my "friends" thought it would be funny...
phillipwright 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
John_Beesley 23 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Pulled through first crux on 2nd go but then couldnt repeat it after! Definitely need some stronger fingers before this goes!
Pulled through first crux on 2nd go but then couldnt repeat it after! Definitely need some stronger fingers before this goes!
phillipwright 14 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
phillipwright 11 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Happy to get all the moves on this now. A project for this year hopefully!
Happy to get all the moves on this now. A project for this year hopefully!
dom_joyce265 11 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
phillipwright 7 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
drcorbasisgod 16 May, 2018 Lead RP Climbed it twice after lobbing off from the easy finish due to a broken hold!
Climbed it twice after lobbing off from the easy finish due to a broken hold!
Matt Broadhurst 9 May, 2018 Lead
with Nick S
with Nick S
drcorbasisgod 26 Apr, 2018 Lead dog
mic_b 19 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
with Stone
with Stone
Tophe 20 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
with Tony
with Tony
Nickc 1 Jun, 2017 Lead RP 1st RP today 5 weeks after falling off and hurting myself... glad to put this one to bed !
with Joel
1st RP today 5 weeks after falling off and hurting myself... glad to put this one to bed !
with Joel
Hidden 19 May, 2017 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 29 Jan, 2016 Lead RP felt much better today in the perfect connies than when i tired this the other year or when I climbed obscene toilet definitely a tor classic although its not that pleasant
felt much better today in the perfect connies than when i tired this the other year or when I climbed obscene toilet definitely a tor classic although its not that pleasant
dannyboy83 20 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
mark20 27 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
PeterDawson 21 Jun, 2015 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31 May, 2015 Lead dog
Ally Smith 10 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Finally!
Finally!
Ally Smith 6 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Frustrating! Half a dozen goes - best go dropped the post crux undercut move
with Matt Donnelly
Frustrating! Half a dozen goes - best go dropped the post crux undercut move
with Matt Donnelly
NDD 4 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
with sam harvie
with sam harvie
Ally Smith 25 May, 2014 Lead dog
with Broome
with Broome
Hidden 18 Apr, 2014 Sent x
AdamHodgson ??, 2014 Lead RP
bigie bob ??, 2014 Lead RP
Haydn Jones 10 Aug, 2013 Lead RP 3rd try should have gone 2nd
3rd try should have gone 2nd
Cailean Harker 10 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
nathanlee 23 Jul, 2013 Lead RP Unexpected, hard fight with the grease.
Unexpected, hard fight with the grease.
Somerset swede basher 30 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Got all the moves in a couple of sessions but taken a while to finally link it all. Fitness weakness exposed!
with Adam
Got all the moves in a couple of sessions but taken a while to finally link it all. Fitness weakness exposed!
with Adam
Ethan 18 May, 2013 Lead
with Don Walker
with Don Walker
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Tom Briggs 21 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 16 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Simon Davis 16 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
with dav
with dav
Hidden 7 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 7 May, 2012 Lead dog All the moves done, which was a surprise. I don't think I have the chutzpah to link this through the powerful undercut moves, but I'm going to plug away anyway because it feels like good training.
All the moves done, which was a surprise. I don't think I have the chutzpah to link this through the powerful undercut moves, but I'm going to plug away anyway because it feels like good training.
Dave Bond 16 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
with Duncan and will
with Duncan and will
J.Wells 22 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with Alex Blaza
with Alex Blaza
Hidden 7 Apr, 2011 TR dog
debsb 7 Apr, 2011 TR
with loundsy
with loundsy
steepstuff 5 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
with Simon
with Simon
UKB Shark 5 Oct, 2010 Lead RP Full of cold. First working go knocked a foothold off on step left. First redpoint Got to gaston/last hard move first redpoint but couldnt hold it. Next go fingers slipped on flake on crux trav left. Walk. 3rd go got it just. God knows how many days Ive been on it this year.
with marky65
Full of cold. First working go knocked a foothold off on step left. First redpoint Got to gaston/last hard move first redpoint but couldnt hold it. Next go fingers slipped on flake on crux trav left. Walk. 3rd go got it just. God knows how many days Ive been on it this year.
with marky65
marky65 5 Oct, 2010 -
with Simon
with Simon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16 May, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
hutch 17 Sep, 2009 Lead RP
Fraser13 ?Sep, 2009 Lead RP
hamer89 18 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
jondude 4 Mar, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 25 May, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 24 Apr, 2008 Lead RP
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2003 -
sadams 28 Mar, 2000 Lead RP
with unseconded
with unseconded
Seb Grieve ??, 1991 Lead RP Fast ascent. Loved the runout top bit.
Fast ascent. Loved the runout top bit.
craig d ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead
ajtay ??, 1989 -
stp 3 Jun, 1988 Lead RP F.A. My favourite new route at Raven Tor. Loss of hold's has made it harder than the original 7c grade but is it really 8a? Maybe I'll do it again sometime to check it out.
F.A. My favourite new route at Raven Tor. Loss of hold's has made it harder than the original 7c grade but is it really 8a? Maybe I'll do it again sometime to check it out.
9 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 156
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set