8m.

Rockfax Description
Short and sharp. Boulder up to the jug then make a desperate move left. Finish more easily up and right to the ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Malcolm Taylor 1989

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Boy 20 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
Mick 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
bustermartin 5 May - Enjoyed this
Enjoyed this
MathewWright1998 17 Apr Lead RP Super super good climbing, very memorable drop knee on the crux!
Super super good climbing, very memorable drop knee on the crux!
PeterDawson 17 Apr Lead RP
Alex hall 2 Apr Lead RP Pretty pleased with this, felt a lot easier when Hayden turned up with the beta
Pretty pleased with this, felt a lot easier when Hayden turned up with the beta
Matt Broadhurst 24 Sep, 2017 Lead Third 8a and done on my birthday! First redpoint in the dying light.
with Wojtas
Third 8a and done on my birthday! First redpoint in the dying light.
with Wojtas
mark20 20 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 20 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Tom Adams
with Tom Adams
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 Sent
KiaranR 6 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Finally worked out the crux move and got through it on my 3rd RP only to fall off it. Will be back with fresh skin as soon as possible to tick this one off!
Finally worked out the crux move and got through it on my 3rd RP only to fall off it. Will be back with fresh skin as soon as possible to tick this one off!
AdamHodgson ??, 2015 Lead RP Best move at the Tor!
Best move at the Tor!
Chris_barr 21 May, 2014 Lead RP
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden 5 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
peaches69 23 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Finally, bout 4th go 2day
Finally, bout 4th go 2day
NDD 16 Mar, 2014 Sent
with toby, tony stone
with toby, tony stone
Haydn Jones 6 Oct, 2013 Lead RP Felt alright. About 4 atempts to get it.
with nigel leeming
Felt alright. About 4 atempts to get it.
with nigel leeming
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
jake_haddock 19 Jun, 2013 Lead RP First go today putting in the draws. My first of the grade,a cool route with a desperate shoulder move! Psyched!
with Will
First go today putting in the draws. My first of the grade,a cool route with a desperate shoulder move! Psyched!
with Will
AshWH 11 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Slight case of disco leg at the top.
with Callum, jake_haddock
Slight case of disco leg at the top.
with Callum, jake_haddock
gcarmichael 11 Aug, 2012 Lead RP 1st session, 2nd redpoint. 2nd ever sport climb outside, psyched! Nice route as well, nearly fell off every move on lead! Now to get on some harder stuff :)
with Stuart Littlefair, Stone, Adam Bailes
1st session, 2nd redpoint. 2nd ever sport climb outside, psyched! Nice route as well, nearly fell off every move on lead! Now to get on some harder stuff :)
with Stuart Littlefair, Stone, Adam Bailes
bigie bob 1 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
westyb3 21 Apr, 2011 Lead RP 3rd go
with Chris Savage
3rd go
with Chris Savage
Ethan 22 Apr, 2010 Lead
with Jon Clark, Matt Fry
with Jon Clark, Matt Fry
Matt Fry 22 Apr, 2010 Lead RP Great moves!
Great moves!
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Simon Davis ??, 2010 Lead RP
with Bourney
with Bourney
Apharri 27 May, 2009 Lead RP
with Rob Napier
with Rob Napier
Hidden 20 May, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Mar, 2009 Lead RP
hamer89 13 Mar, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead
lx 15 Oct, 2007 Lead cool moves
with neil
cool moves
with neil
hutch 7 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
craig matheson ??, 2007 -
Dave Bond 23 Jul, 2006 Lead RP 1st 8a
with Andy Price
1st 8a
with Andy Price
Hidden 20 May, 2006 Lead RP
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden 4 Jul, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jun, 2003 Lead β
kristian ??, 2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2002 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1999 Lead RP
craig d ??, 1990 -
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set