Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag, and one of Cornwall's finest single-pitches. The difficulty of the start is influenced by the position of the huge boulder at the base of the wall, which moves around during very heavy seas! Start on the boulder.
Pull onto the steep wall and move up to good wires. Make some hard moves to get established at the base of the easier-angled headwall above. Climb the sustained thin crack-line all the way to the top, or from midway up the headwall, move left to a small corner and finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
First - bottom part of route gone. Without boulder for start - as present - need harder grading...

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

alice fuller ?/May/17 2nd dog

Misha's 2015 description v accurate. Tis nails.. small unopposing holds. slippery awful hand slot..right hand gaston seemed best. Miha hung there for ages putting in gear.. and did a brilliant onsight . I got most of the moves.Miha from Slovenia - BMC International Meet.Woj reckons E56b

with Miha Kern
JendeHoxar 18/Feb/17 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 18/Feb/17 Lead

E4/5 6b

Hidden ??/2017 -
switch 03/Jun/16 Lead dog

1 rest before the old crux. 2016 status: E5 6b felt right now. Comparing the holds now with the older photos here it looks like a large thin shield (approx 8ft across by 4ft high) has dropped off at the start during winter '13/'14, leaving a left-facing rib below the start of Footless Madness and one big foothold out left below the original crux of GP. I made a hard move from the boulder up the start of FM on the right to place some decent runners before stepping back down to the boulder and then pulling up the crimpy flakes further left, on GP. The first wires on GP are good but strenuous to place well.

with Andy S
whiteexplorer 02/Oct/15 TR dog
with joe
dready 02/Oct/15 TR

the move's getting to the rib/crack are 6b ish now after storm damage

Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 2nd
ferdia 05/Jul/15 2nd

this is NAILS. good attempt on lead by misha, who found lots of very small gear to the left and right to protect the lower section. must feel E5 6b now.

Misha 05/Jul/15 Lead RP

Got my arse well and truly kicked by this. Knew it was now E4 but it was still nails at the new grade! The moves aren't too bad (or at least as 'not too bad' as 6a gets) but hanging around on the jug for ages trying to fix some gear wasn't exactly refreshing (didn't want to down climb as wasn't sure I'd make it as needed a dynamic move to get the jug). The real issue though was not finding the in balance position when I got to the 'good' slot (actually polished and sloping and hard to hold in the merciless heat of the sun). Pumped out and fell off onto that micro out right, feet just touched the boulder - thanks to Ferdia for the attentive belaying! Back on, got a micro in below the good slot and promptly slumped onto it. Supplemented with a cam and a nut in the slot, pumpy to place even after a rest. Had two to three tests trying to figure out the in balance position and the moves to get established on the rib above. Eventually found the semi hidden finger jug up and left (beyond the last obvious hand hold), which enables a nice move to get stood up on the rib. A hard 5c / 6a slab move lurks above, not ideal in the sweltering heat! After that it's a nice E1ish bimble up the crack, which I followed all the way. One to do again one day, may be as part of Golden Brown. Gear beta - yellow cam to protect the lean out left to place a green BD micro cam, questionable micro at the jug (can only be placed one you're on it) but better to move right to a good number 1ish micro (currently in situ as we didn't have a nut key between us and it's the one I fell onto), then small micro in the tiny crack below the slot, 0.4 cam in the slot, medium to large nuts in the crack above. Looking at the photos here, the original route seems to have been a fair bit easier! Boulder was more or less in place but still required a dynamic move to get the jug.

with Ferdia
JulesV 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Pleased to get this clean as I didn't realise it had fallen down. Felt more like E5 6a to me. A bit of height may have helped as I was able to down climb from the slot after getting pumped placing a dodgy micro wire below it. I had a good wire in slot down and right at this point but reckon I'd have hit the boulder if I'd come off. Next time up I was able to get decent gear in the upper slot and make the moves above. Getting established on the slab from there was still hard, I assume this is the original crux. Still a great route but a little less balanced!

with Shauna
Duncan Campbell 28/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Didn't pre-place any runners and it is very difficult to place them and the climbing is nails certainly not E3 6a anymore. Felt burnt out so sacked it off. Would like to come back one day

with Robbie
markalmack 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

pre-placed first runner. E5 6a/b

with gwen
dready 07/Aug/14 TR dog

think this needs re grading the start, straight off the boulder has lost holds and is quite hard.. once on main crack it flows nicely though.

with shunt
Dan_Carroll 16/Apr/14 TR RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 12/Apr/14 Lead RP

Has sustained more damage after storms. Start even harder. Climbed with pre clipped runner in base of crack. Would be possible to lead from the ground but it is waaay harder.

with max
Wil Treasure 18/May/13 Lead

I'd say E4 6b for this at the moment. There is a boulder to step off on the left to traverse to the jug, or you can climb direct at about the same grade. 6b for first sequence, then two 6a sections IMO. The flake at the bottom may have fallen off, but even with it this must have been the hardest E2 around! Great route, shame the rock gets a bit scrittly at the top. Excellent gear all the way.

Wil Treasure 15/May/13 Lead dnf
with Viktor
Pieterjan De Roo 15/May/13 Lead O/S

E4 I would say now that the starting boulder is gone.

Luxulyan 06/May/13 TR dnf

Tried to top rope this today, couldn't get off the ground and then realised there has been some significant rock fall and the starting boulder has also gone. Not sure what grade it would get now but the start is now very tough and no good protection for, at a guess, 5m. Shame, the top section looks so good.

kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead RP

Ground up on my second attempt. Hard at the start following rockfall. Worth E4.

with Colin
Ed Babs 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Didn't commit to rock over onto slab after failing to get gear in diagonal crack leading up to it. Jumped off, just missed the deck, abseiled for gear and top roped the route. Glad I jumped off: the rock over move is hard.

Bristoldave 26/Aug/12 TR β

Shunted after we abbed in at high tide with no ropes!

clipskipper 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Ed Babs
Hidden 19/Aug/12 TR
Spearos 28/Jun/12 TR dog
Master Chief 28/Jun/12 TR dog
nick arding 11/May/12 Lead dog
with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding 11/May/12 2nd
with nick arding
burto 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 Lead

Much harder than sunny corner lane.

with Rick Graham
alice fuller 11/Jan/12 2nd dog
with woj
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
jas128 24/Jul/11 TR dog
quiffhanger 09/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd β
datoon 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
tuftynick 31/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead
Adam Booth 28/May/11 2nd RP

Awesome route

Ed Booth 28/May/11 Lead O/S


Pippa 28/May/11 Lead dnf

Backed off crux wet and starting to rain

with Jon
andybenham 05/Mar/11 TR dog

Managed the hard moves out left and fell in the rock over onto the slab (twice). Then managed the rest in one go. Climbed on a coaching day with Johnny Dawes. Also worth pointing out the large flake at the start of the route is no more...

with Johnny Dawes, Dave Monaghan, Gareth Hayfield
royal 05/Mar/11 2nd dog

Climbed on a great coaching day with Johnny Dawes. Fell quite a few times on the bottom crux but eventually worked it out. No problems once over the rock over.

Gareth 05/Mar/11 TR dog

All clean apart from the rockover on to the slab. Flake was missing

flyinfrenchy 23/Jan/11 TR dnf
mbradberry2008 23/Jan/11 Lead dnf

Had attempted the lead, fell off a couple times getting round on the slab, then decided to top rope it after 1 fall got to the top, first lead attempt at an e2...

Rob Pitt 02/Sep/10 Lead RP

Nails. Fell off crux, pulled ropes & then did it.

with Nick Arding
petellis 31/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Alaan
alaan 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mat
mattyork2 29/Aug/10 2nd

Stiff. Effort for effortless Alan.

tommytuffa 10/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with ollie b
miastacey ?/Aug/10 Lead RP

Fell off first go. Back next day and done clean. Really good but tricky getting established in crack.

with Bob Smith
colesy 16/Jul/10 Lead dog

Nails, hardest E2 I've been on, fell off!

Harald 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Harald 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/May/10 2nd
with Jan (Slovakia)
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead dog
billb ?/May/10 Lead
with Graham A
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 10/Mar/10 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Swotson 18/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Tony Madden
John Southworth 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Jakubowski
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Docent 21/Oct/07 Lead β
with wojt
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd
feilx 30/Sep/07 Lead RP

not done in the best style, fell off, then abbed sorted out a better runner, pulled ropes and lead again - well it was damp

with Bern
Rich Kirby 03/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Ash
Toby Dunn 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
pezzerrr 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Isn't it "grande plage"?

Jus ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
jimdanson 31/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
Hidden ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 06/Aug/05 Lead O/S

I thought E4. A large boulder has gone from the start.

with Ian Dring
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Mark Kemball 29/Feb/04 2nd
with Nic Dill
lukea 30/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Al
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/02 2nd
Chris Reid 05/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
sadams 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with John Fletcher
Tim Sparrow ??/2001 -
Nigel Coe ??/2001 Lead
with Amnon, Malcolm Brown
jfletcher 10/Sep/00 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S


with Gary Wickham, Matt York
Hidden 11/Aug/00 TR
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 19/Aug/99 Lead G/U
with jim
goi.ashmore 04/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Steve Crowe 16/Jun/99 Lead O/S

16 or 17 June 1999

with KM
PaulTanton 12/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Robin
andy_pemberton ?/May/98 Lead
with Brian Hannon
duncan 20/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1997 2nd
with Simon Blagdon, Nick Hancock
Greg Cunningham ??/1997 Lead
with andy mcarthy
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark Harris
Mark Kemball 25/Jul/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
pete johnson ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Hughie
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Ali W
Hidden 17/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 30/Dec/91 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/May/91 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Mike Owen 16/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr 14/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Ashley Hold 08/Jun/88 2nd
Billg 12/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
Hidden 27/Jul/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/86 -
Bullybones ??/1986 2nd
with Crispin
Hidden 19/May/85 Lead
keefe 23/Aug/84 -
Steve Lewis 02/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Paul Clarke ??/1977 -
with FMC
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set