10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. Sprint up the flake then swing left and make a swift mantel before climbing a precarious scoop to a desperately rounded exit. A large cams protects the last move. Every move is supposed to be worth three stars and it is said to be E2 for grit technicians. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.


ClimberDateStyle
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Aug Lead O/S

After a day at Hen Cloud and an ice cream. Didn't have a big cam for the top so it was a bit hairy. Great moves which went down quickly until the top!

with Deacon
amccann 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Olga, Felicity, Shaun H, Pete B, Tom A, Fran, Jake Young, Ben Kelsey
pete1993 01/Jul Lead β

Brilliant, probably one of the best routes I've done on grit, cam in the big crack probably makes it low e3 though

Jake Young 01/Jul Lead rpt

Quality :)

RKirke 01/May 2nd O/S
Stroppy 01/May Lead G/U

Took the fall from the top twice (without the big cam), second time sliding off from 'the whale' position. Thanks for the catches and patience Rog! Avoided the runnel as I thought it was on the next route over.

Coops_13 22/Apr Lead dog

Onsight to final move then a few scrapey falls. Nice route

with Dan Geh
AMJ098 22/Apr 2nd O/S

Great moves.

ldadams ?/Apr 2nd O/S
benw681 27/Mar Lead G/U

2nd go

with Lewis
C coldwell-storry 28/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with rob lay
ashtond6 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Bit sweaty, but pleased to do whilst quite injured! Amazing moves and inherently safe but feels abit committing

EllaMain 14/Aug/16 2nd dog
Lukem6 14/Aug/16 Lead G/U
with ella
Kirree 07/Mar/16 TR dnf
joedean ??/2016 Lead
g.chalker 19/Sep/15 Lead
SGD 05/Sep/15 2nd

Good lead from Dale, very smooth. Tom did it 1st, Dale followed then Dale Decided to do it so I followed Dale - if it wasn't for the hangover I would have probably led it myself. Excellent route.

with Dale
Dale ?/Sep/15 Lead RP

My first E4 and a great route. Unfortunately I seconded it first I would of been able to onsite this, O well. Brilliant moves I never found it hard on second or on lead. I recon with modern gear it is only E3 I always thought E4 was going to feel hard for me maybe I was climbing well. Also first time climbing on grit this year. I look forward to some more.

with Tom stu friend, stu
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Jake Young 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
tim newton 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with jake young
M_Robinson 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/15 Lead β
Andrew Abraham 02/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Paul Deane
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar/15 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Had a big cam for the top runnel which tamed it a little. Cracking route.

John Higgs 20/Mar/15 Lead G/U
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden 24/Sep/14 Lead G/U
bencole ?/Jun/14 Lead β

seen a couple of videos of this so no onsight but still felt full committed on the top slab, brilliant.

with Dad
Andy Peak 1 12/Mar/14 Lead
Ky 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Wales
Andrew Abraham 12/Mar/14 Lead β

Mega, got this done at last after falling off it a few years ago.

with Ky
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Welly Matt 30/Nov/13 2nd β
Dan Geh 16/Jul/13 Lead G/U

Didn't commit fully to the mantle and fell most the length of the crag with the nuts ripping out and hitting me in the face. Second attempt felt easy.

tgeh 16/Jul/13 Lead β

on dans gear

with imogene, dan geh
Daymo 17/Feb/13 TR
deejmonkey 17/Feb/13 TR
with len, Damian
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR dog
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
Brown 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Lilifa
Nick Russell 07/Jul/12 Lead β

Beta: seen a video of somebody on the route

Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead
yarrow 29/Mar/12 TR dnf
with Mark C, Rachel Takacs
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead
Stone Muppet 25/Feb/12 Lead RP

Probably could have onsighted this, but wouldn't have :) First E4!

with pe, ah
Mike Warner ??/2012 2nd O/S
Nickc ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19/Sep/11 Lead O/S
grady ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

on eds gear

Ky 21/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Danny T
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd β
minirollsrule 20/Jun/11 Lead dnf

I WILL DO THIS ONE DAY :D

pipof747 03/Jun/11 Lead β

Great

Diggler 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Stunning moves. Quite pleased with the onsight.

with Charlie
Coel Hellier 08/Apr/11 Lead
bavarianGaz 20/Mar/11 TR dnf

To lead one day hopefully

with Andy and Deej
deejmonkey 20/Mar/11 TR
with Andy D, Gaz
A Downing 20/Mar/11 TR dnf
with Gaz
bigie bob 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Boy 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Long, Nige Kershaw
lukebowman551 04/Sep/10 TR dnf

Got to the top of the flake.

with henry crosby
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ciaran1999 24/Apr/10 Lead

First E4!! an amazing climb but don't bring the wrong size cam for the top or the ground will seem very far below!

with saul
shafiq lalloo 23/Apr/10 2nd

dogged twice! Still an amazing, thought curling climb :D

jacobjacob 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf
scotty h 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Annoyed that i couldn't make the move left, going to have to try this again.

ciaran1999 17/Apr/10 2nd
with jacob
Adam Ellwood 14/Apr/10 Lead β

Led on daves gear who did it first

Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead O/S
mic_b 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd RP
Alex Winter 20/Jul/09 Lead

Awesome route, although more like E3 5c

mlmatt 14/Jun/09 Lead

No top roping and my first E4 6a, great route!

Stoff ?/Jun/09 TR
monsteratt 30/May/09 2nd dog
with Andy Abe and & Co
nickwhimster 30/May/09 TR

top roped it to get gear out after Andy took to the air from the top out.

with andy abraham
steve_biczyk 03/May/09 Lead RP
with Emma Curry, Aron Urbanics, Bence Lam
MattT88 03/May/09 Lead rpt
MattT88 08/Apr/09 Lead RP

First go of the day, only previously logged top-roping for practice

MattT88 04/Apr/09 TR

Three times, need lead next time

with Alex Flemming
Theeni ?/Apr/09 TR O/S
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Gareth Watkins
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Much use of the technical 'whale' manoeuvre at the top!

with Dad
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
jonnyboy 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Sep/08 Lead

Didnt have large cam first time, sent second go

with Dave Wharton
Mr Wild 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S

definitly want to come back and lead

Luke Brooks 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Jus 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
daza 02/Nov/06 2nd
with Sam D
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with simon nadin
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead dnf

managed to fall off the rock over move - poor, and then couldn't top out and had to be rescued - poorer (though the top was quite gritty/dirty)

with Alex
Jon Read 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2005 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead β
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Dave Bond 09/Dec/04 Lead β
Hidden 09/Dec/04 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/May/04 Lead O/S

Good day out with excellent new guide. Nice work Grimer

Rich Kirby 02/May/04 Lead O/S

A top 5 grit E4.

with Hugh
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 02/May/04 2nd
sadams 02/May/04 Lead
mbutton ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Gus Hudgens
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Didn't use a big cam. A very delicate finish. Brilliant route.

with Martin Flint
Hidden ??/2003 -
middlevern ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 09/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Forshaw
Chris Reid ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup
Gus 29/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
nige ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2000 Lead β
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/1999 -
Billg ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
nokishatov 01/Sep/97 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Stoney Boy 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Mike Cluer
ShaunD ??/1997 Lead O/S

had to leap for the jug.well protected, even without the friend in the bum crack. ace!

Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
Duncan Bourne 20/Aug/95 TR
with E Allcock
Roget 13/May/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Apr/91 TR O/S
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 57
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set