Rockfax Description
10m. Monsterous! The two-tiered pebble-lined crack is a thrash. A traditional HVS that regularly minces E3 leaders! © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, 50 cracks to Squamish, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

MicheleC 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Claudia
James Oakes 24/Sep/17 2nd rpt
admackie 16/Aug/17 Lead dnf

couldn't turn the lip of the start, took a kicking will try again

with Ardo
Graeme Hammond 31/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Should of/nearly on sighted, but had to settle for ground up after messing up the exit to the first crack.

with Neil Colquhoun
James Smith 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Yan
James Smith 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Yan
Hidden 01/Jun/17 2nd
Stroppy 01/May/17 Lead O/S

Proper meaty moves on this, loved it. If it's an HVS it's definitely extra 'traditional'

mskngch ?/May/17 Lead dnf
Mike W 03/Apr/17 Lead G/U
MichaelGallimore 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 22/Sep/16 Lead G/U
with Ky
ashtond6 11/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Harder than browns E2

tgeh 03/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Not too bad when you work it out

with dan geh
Dan Geh 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

HVS, 2 contrasting and awkward sections with a massive ledge between. Not sustained enough for E1

Flavio 10/Oct/15 Lead G/U
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead G/U

Fell off three times!

deacondeacon 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

No tape, cos I'm 'ard and an idiot.

Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
manxclare 27/Sep/14 2nd
with jon22
John sealey 27/Sep/14 Lead
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
pearson9596 20/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Pete Cawley
Alex Winter 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

2 on Staffordshire nose. Brilliant sandbag.

with Nick
Nick Russell 20/Jul/14 2nd

2/31. Brutal, lost feeling in the back of one hand. It still hasn't come back. Absolute joke at HVS 5b (but we all knew that already).

dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
morganator 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith, Sophie Whyte
MichaelGallimore 31/May/14 Lead G/U
with Flavio, Goodstuff
soph 21/May/14 2nd rpt
with Lindy Smith
soph 24/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Lindy Smith
Andy Peak 1 12/Mar/14 Lead

Brilliant climbing! Just have to find the good hand jam on the top and its easy, didn't stop me fluffing it first go:-)

dannyboy83 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Very Pleasant

Bloke on a Rope 01/Sep/13 Lead G/U

Tried this without taping up and almost instantly regretted it! Put some tape on for 2nd try and got it! Defo felt more like E1 especially without a big cam for top crack.

with Matt
Climbster 01/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead RP
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
andi turner ??/2013 -
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number Two of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
Adam Booth 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Jamming practice. Fuckin painful!

Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Pilgrim
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead β
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead dnf
benkelsey 23/Jul/11 Lead dnf

HVS my left. will tape up and get back on it.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ky ?/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Donk
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
switch 12/Feb/11 2nd
with James
grady ?/Sep/10 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead RP

It took numerous attempts before I managed to get more than about two feet off the floor, but got it clean in the end. Thought the the top crack was OK. Brutal but brilliant.

Hidden 17/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Si dH 17/Aug/09 Lead dog

Pleased just to get up the thing. I did the bottom half to the ledge clean which is good. Should probably have onsighted teh top half ut got knackered and wasnt sure I could down climb. Im poor at offwidths. Its desperate for HVS and 5b.

with Neil Furniss
Mr Wild 10/Aug/08 Lead dnf

painful thrash but addictive enough that i want another attempt

mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead

the first bit is ok,good jams.the top part is harder

with andi t
Steve Banham 14/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Brutal - don't do it! Tape up if you have to try it!

with Nigel M
goi.ashmore 19/Sep/06 Lead RP

The grade is a joke. The bottom crack is easy, the top is a 'mare.

with Arnaud Garcon
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Roget 31/May/01 Lead O/S
with jon
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set