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UKClimbing Team

10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. Monsterous! The two-tiered pebble-lined crack is a thrash. A traditional HVS that regularly minces E3 leaders! © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, 50 cracks to Squamish, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Proper Cracks UK

Feedback

UserDateNotes
tylerc91 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Finally sent the first crack. Decked onto the ledge from final move of second crack due to cam ripping. Sore arse, but sent it second try.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finally sent the first crack. Decked onto the ledge from final move of second crack due to cam ripping. Sore arse, but sent it second try.
TomPR 9 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This would be a sandbag even at E1. There are loads of E2s on grit that are easier than this. I think I nearly had to try as hard on this as Ramshaw crack...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This would be a sandbag even at E1. There are loads of E2s on grit that are easier than this. I think I nearly had to try as hard on this as Ramshaw crack...
Si dH 26 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Then I am not a HVS leader! Utterly desperate, I'm not bad at jamming, eg. the crank was certainly easy, but this, wow. Couldnt get more than 2 feet off the ground, the jams at the obttom are pretty poor, very thin, and the pebbles are agony itself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Then I am not a HVS leader! Utterly desperate, I'm not bad at jamming, eg. the crank was certainly easy, but this, wow. Couldnt get more than 2 feet off the ground, the jams at the obttom are pretty poor, very thin, and the pebbles are agony itself.
goi.ashmore 21 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This grade is total nonsense. Nasty as....but nice to have done!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This grade is total nonsense. Nasty as....but nice to have done!
Frank the Husky 20 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Monstrous!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Monstrous!
mark s 8 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: you are not a hvs leader till you have done this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: you are not a hvs leader till you have done this
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Oct, 2019 Lead dnf
Jack jk 20 Oct, 2019 2nd β
AdamFreeman 21 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Took a while but got it ground up. Second crack is easy by comparison
Took a while but got it ground up. Second crack is easy by comparison
tylerc91 21 Sep, 2019 Lead G/U Finally sent the first crack. Decked onto the ledge from final move of second crack due to cam ripping. Sore arse, but sent it second try.
Finally sent the first crack. Decked onto the ledge from final move of second crack due to cam ripping. Sore arse, but sent it second try.
Tom Last 13 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Quite a fight. Would be entirely justified climbing this as a multi pitch! ;) Glad to flash it on sight.
Quite a fight. Would be entirely justified climbing this as a multi pitch! ;) Glad to flash it on sight.
tylerc91 7 Sep, 2019 Lead
George Frisby 7 Sep, 2019 Lead rpt First crack only.
First crack only.
AdamFreeman 7 Sep, 2019 Lead dnf Really struggled getting started, need more practice
Really struggled getting started, need more practice
pearson9596 27 Aug, 2019 2nd rpt
richsmithinbristol 27 Aug, 2019 Lead G/U After failing the previous day by falling out of the top crack I returned to finally gain victory! This route has properly schooled me in the 'Best Forgotten Art'!
After failing the previous day by falling out of the top crack I returned to finally gain victory! This route has properly schooled me in the 'Best Forgotten Art'!
myrddinmuse 26 Jul, 2019 AltLd G/U Chose to pitch this to give Keavy the chance to practice his crack technique. Just kidding, I got shut down by the final crack, totally knackered, missed the top jug, gutted. Kieran fancied a pop so I made a belay and he got it after a few tries. But I seconded clean so taking the alt lead...
Chose to pitch this to give Keavy the chance to practice his crack technique. Just kidding, I got shut down by the final crack, totally knackered, missed the top jug, gutted. Kieran fancied a pop so I made a belay and he got it after a few tries. But I seconded clean so taking the alt lead...
kierankeavy 26 Jul, 2019 AltLd G/U
Hidden 21 Jun, 2019 2nd β
George Frisby 5 May, 2019 Lead rpt Practice on the crackinator has obviously helped, the bottom crack was fine today. Top crack still harder than it looks, some good foot locks helped thrutch up to the ckockstones.
Practice on the crackinator has obviously helped, the bottom crack was fine today. Top crack still harder than it looks, some good foot locks helped thrutch up to the ckockstones.
chadogrady 11 Apr, 2019 TR dnf Top rope solo. Really hard moves.
Top rope solo. Really hard moves.
Hidden 27 Mar, 2019 -
Hidden 27 Mar, 2019 -
George Frisby 25 Nov, 2018 Lead dnf After finally getting the bottom crack clean had no beans left to do the pull over the chockstone on the upper crack and lowered. That top out of the first crack is something else!
After finally getting the bottom crack clean had no beans left to do the pull over the chockstone on the upper crack and lowered. That top out of the first crack is something else!
Jonathan Hall 2 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Messed this right up. Struggled with topping out the first crack and made sure my hands and arms were fully wrecked before plopping off.
with Hoyes
Messed this right up. Struggled with topping out the first crack and made sure my hands and arms were fully wrecked before plopping off.
with Hoyes
DMC 19 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 12 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
with DMC
with DMC
DMC 12 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
DMC 12 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
rumblesan 10 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf decided to spend more time practicing the jamming. with a bit more oomph in the arms it should be a goer
decided to spend more time practicing the jamming. with a bit more oomph in the arms it should be a goer
George Frisby 10 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Hard bottom crack
Hard bottom crack
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U
rowland penty 10 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
MicheleC 29 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with Clama
with Clama
James Oakes 24 Sep, 2017 2nd rpt
admackie 16 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf couldn't turn the lip of the start, took a kicking will try again
with Ardo
couldn't turn the lip of the start, took a kicking will try again
with Ardo
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U Should of/nearly on sighted, but had to settle for ground up after messing up the exit to the first crack.
with Neil Colquhoun
Should of/nearly on sighted, but had to settle for ground up after messing up the exit to the first crack.
with Neil Colquhoun
James Smith 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Yan
with Yan
James Smith 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Yan
with Yan
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 2nd
Stroppy 1 May, 2017 Lead O/S Proper meaty moves on this, loved it. If it's an HVS it's definitely extra 'traditional'
with RKirke
Proper meaty moves on this, loved it. If it's an HVS it's definitely extra 'traditional'
with RKirke
mskngch ?May, 2017 Lead dnf
Mike W 3 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 25 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 22 Sep, 2016 Lead G/U
with Ky
with Ky
Ky 22 Sep, 2016 2nd
ashtond6 11 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Harder than browns E2
Harder than browns E2
tgeh 3 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U Not too bad when you work it out
with dan geh
Not too bad when you work it out
with dan geh
Dan Geh 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S HVS, 2 contrasting and awkward sections with a massive ledge between. Not sustained enough for E1
with tgeh
HVS, 2 contrasting and awkward sections with a massive ledge between. Not sustained enough for E1
with tgeh
Flavio 10 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U
with andy_e
with andy_e
Ram MkiV 26 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with noaks
with noaks
James Oakes 26 May, 2015 Lead G/U Fell off three times!
Fell off three times!
deacondeacon 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S No tape, cos I'm 'ard and an idiot.
No tape, cos I'm 'ard and an idiot.
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Nov, 2014 Lead
manxclare 27 Sep, 2014 2nd
John sealey 27 Sep, 2014 Lead
soph 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Lindy Smith
with Lindy Smith
pearson9596 20 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Pete Cawley
with Pete Cawley
Alex Winter 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S 2 on Staffordshire nose. Brilliant sandbag.
with Nick
2 on Staffordshire nose. Brilliant sandbag.
with Nick
Nick Russell 20 Jul, 2014 2nd 2/31. Brutal, lost feeling in the back of one hand. It still hasn't come back. Absolute joke at HVS 5b (but we all knew that already).
2/31. Brutal, lost feeling in the back of one hand. It still hasn't come back. Absolute joke at HVS 5b (but we all knew that already).
dan gibson 29 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
morganator 5 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith, soph
with Lindy Smith, soph
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead G/U
soph 21 May, 2014 2nd rpt
with Lindy Smith
with Lindy Smith
soph 24 Apr, 2014 Lead dog
with Lindy Smith
with Lindy Smith
Andy Peak 1 12 Mar, 2014 Lead Brilliant climbing! Just have to find the good hand jam on the top and its easy, didn't stop me fluffing it first go:-)
Brilliant climbing! Just have to find the good hand jam on the top and its easy, didn't stop me fluffing it first go:-)
dannyboy83 8 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Very Pleasant
with Tophe
Very Pleasant
with Tophe
Bloke on a Rope 1 Sep, 2013 Lead G/U Tried this without taping up and almost instantly regretted it! Put some tape on for 2nd try and got it! Defo felt more like E1 especially without a big cam for top crack.
Tried this without taping up and almost instantly regretted it! Put some tape on for 2nd try and got it! Defo felt more like E1 especially without a big cam for top crack.
Climbster 1 Sep, 2013 2nd β
Hidden 8 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
andi turner 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
with pete bridgwood
andi turner ??, 2013 -
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 Lead
Brown 22 Sep, 2012 Lead Number Two of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose
with Andy R
Number Two of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose
with Andy R
Adam Booth 9 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf Jamming practice. Fuckin painful!
Jamming practice. Fuckin painful!
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 27 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Tom Pilgrim
with Tom Pilgrim
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 2nd
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf
benkelsey 23 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf HVS my left. will tape up and get back on it.
with remus
HVS my left. will tape up and get back on it.
with remus
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Ky ?Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf
Si Witcher 12 Feb, 2011 2nd
with James
with James
grady ?Sep, 2010 Lead
kingholmesy ??, 2010 Lead RP It took numerous attempts before I managed to get more than about two feet off the floor, but got it clean in the end. Thought the the top crack was OK. Brutal but brilliant.
with TS
It took numerous attempts before I managed to get more than about two feet off the floor, but got it clean in the end. Thought the the top crack was OK. Brutal but brilliant.
with TS
Hidden 17 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Si dH 17 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Pleased just to get up the thing. I did the bottom half to the ledge clean which is good. Should probably have onsighted teh top half ut got knackered and wasnt sure I could down climb. Im poor at offwidths. Its desperate for HVS and 5b.
with Neil Furniss
Pleased just to get up the thing. I did the bottom half to the ledge clean which is good. Should probably have onsighted teh top half ut got knackered and wasnt sure I could down climb. Im poor at offwidths. Its desperate for HVS and 5b.
with Neil Furniss
Mr Wild 10 Aug, 2008 Lead dnf painful thrash but addictive enough that i want another attempt
painful thrash but addictive enough that i want another attempt
mark s 29 Sep, 2007 Lead the first bit is ok,good jams.the top part is harder
with andi t
the first bit is ok,good jams.the top part is harder
with andi t
Steve Banham 14 Mar, 2007 Lead dnf Brutal - don't do it! Tape up if you have to try it!
with Nigel M
Brutal - don't do it! Tape up if you have to try it!
with Nigel M
goi.ashmore 19 Sep, 2006 Lead RP The grade is a joke. The bottom crack is easy, the top is a 'mare.
with Arnaud Garcon
The grade is a joke. The bottom crack is easy, the top is a 'mare.
with Arnaud Garcon
mark s ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Roget 31 May, 2001 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Neil McA 5 May, 2001 2nd O/S Given HVS at the time. Brilliant classic sand bag! Felt more like E3!
with Crispin Waddy, Dave Turnbull, Andy Cave
Given HVS at the time. Brilliant classic sand bag! Felt more like E3!
with Crispin Waddy, Dave Turnbull, Andy Cave
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set