14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, steep and stretchy and with plenty of buckets to swing about on. The finish feels a bit bolder and a long way off the ground and sadly the crucial runner placement is now very worn. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Boysen 1977

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Pythonist 13 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
Fiend 8 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
Pythonist 4 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts! Fantastic moves, though it's over very quickly, as the finish is basically gained via two big moves from the ledge. Keep those heels hooking!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts! Fantastic moves, though it's over very quickly, as the finish is basically gained via two big moves from the ledge. Keep those heels hooking!
Fiend 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
mark s 7 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
WilliamRupp 17 Feb Lead O/S Number 5 cam is bomber and protects crux
Number 5 cam is bomber and protects crux
Hidden 17 Feb 2nd
themattyshep 28 May, 2018 Lead dnf Couldn’t get a cam or any gear in before the crux, backed off. Seems really sandy and scrittly not sure if I want a round two!
with Amy L
Couldn’t get a cam or any gear in before the crux, backed off. Seems really sandy and scrittly not sure if I want a round two!
with Amy L
Duncan Campbell 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S Howling gale, untrustworthy gear in disintegrating crack/pod, skrittley. Felt out there for a short grit route. Not 3 stars and not a good one to go for it on. Very high chance of ripping the gear for the tricky section moving left and up with a good chance of decking if it does.
Howling gale, untrustworthy gear in disintegrating crack/pod, skrittley. Felt out there for a short grit route. Not 3 stars and not a good one to go for it on. Very high chance of ripping the gear for the tricky section moving left and up with a good chance of decking if it does.
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Neil Colquhoun
with Neil Colquhoun
MusicalMountaineer 22 May, 2017 2nd O/S Brilliant lead from Joe. 2 blockbusting moves! Spurious bits of rock...
Brilliant lead from Joe. 2 blockbusting moves! Spurious bits of rock...
fuzzysheep01 22 May, 2017 Lead O/S Great route. Gear before traverse feels less than ideal. Top out was seriously sandy and lichenous (read sketchy).
Great route. Gear before traverse feels less than ideal. Top out was seriously sandy and lichenous (read sketchy).
mskngch ?May, 2017 Lead dnf
Cake 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S The crux is absolutely superb and enjoyable with a massive cam and hex. The general jug-hauling is second-to-none I have done.
The crux is absolutely superb and enjoyable with a massive cam and hex. The general jug-hauling is second-to-none I have done.
Hidden 20 Mar, 2016 2nd β
cmliebmann 16 Nov, 2015 TR O/S
Stoff 4 May, 2015 TR dog
with Andrew, gpcomps
with Andrew, gpcomps
gpcomps 4 May, 2015 TR dog Out of my comfort zone, but very pleased to have made the crux despite the rests
with Andrew, Stoff
Out of my comfort zone, but very pleased to have made the crux despite the rests
with Andrew, Stoff
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
tim newton 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with huw goodall
with huw goodall
Andy Peak 1 22 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
with Andrew Deckon
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Very good! Quite tricky to route read, although I should have just read the guidebook properly
Very good! Quite tricky to route read, although I should have just read the guidebook properly
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
ldadams 2 May, 2014 TR O/S
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
Hannes B 21 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tom
with Tom
andybirtwistle 3 Aug, 2013 TR
pipof747 20 May, 2013 Lead O/S
saffy ??, 2013 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 26 Jul, 2012 TR RP
Stoney Boy 21 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Agreed with the comments below. The friend placement is fairly poor now due to erosion and probably best not tested.
with Nick Conway
Agreed with the comments below. The friend placement is fairly poor now due to erosion and probably best not tested.
with Nick Conway
Nick Russell 7 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S very enjoyable, despite the crux being above truly awful gear!
very enjoyable, despite the crux being above truly awful gear!
WillDoyle 25 Jun, 2012 2nd
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Mike W 17 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Sarah Rudd
with Sarah Rudd
Alex Winter 13 May, 2012 Lead β Got the numbers from Niels and Jake, so I had it more or less wired before leaving the ground. Great climbing. Fell off the back down a hole somehow.
with Jake and Niels
Got the numbers from Niels and Jake, so I had it more or less wired before leaving the ground. Great climbing. Fell off the back down a hole somehow.
with Jake and Niels
Hidden 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 27 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf
timmyhobby 22 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf backed off cos i couldn't trust committing to the side of a load of gear in a sketchy slot!
backed off cos i couldn't trust committing to the side of a load of gear in a sketchy slot!
Hidden 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Nickc ??, 2012 -
Jonny Nick 20 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
andrew hammond 22 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Phil Davies
with Phil Davies
phildavies84 22 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
with Andrew
with Andrew
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf
lukea 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with dan
with dan
Graeme Hammond 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S EXCELLENT!! with good moves between good holds. the cam slot is very rather worn though there is possibly a good small wire below if the rock doesn't crumble but the top isn't run-out as per rockfax and it felt soft not hard at the grade
EXCELLENT!! with good moves between good holds. the cam slot is very rather worn though there is possibly a good small wire below if the rock doesn't crumble but the top isn't run-out as per rockfax and it felt soft not hard at the grade
shed_hed 26 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Nice climb. First E2 climbed. Marked for a possible future lead when I'm ready for E2!
Nice climb. First E2 climbed. Marked for a possible future lead when I'm ready for E2!
Bradbury 26 Jun, 2010 2nd dog 1 fall. Idiot
1 fall. Idiot
mattyork2 21 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Bloody excellent. Crafty hex beta ( ;
with Rob Highland, RuthC, Jimmy Highland
Bloody excellent. Crafty hex beta ( ;
with Rob Highland, RuthC, Jimmy Highland
jacobjacob 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
ciaran1999 17 Apr, 2010 2nd
with jacob
with jacob
nickcanute ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
sgl0jd 9 Jul, 2009 Lead resorted to using a knee :)
resorted to using a knee :)
Jez ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Floris
with Floris
hamish2016 24 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Luke Lindsay
with Luke Lindsay
Boy ?Mar, 2009 -
with Ryan Edwards
with Ryan Edwards
maffujones 20 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
with Adam Quinn
with Adam Quinn
Luke Brooks 24 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Neil Macdonald
with Neil Macdonald
Pete Graham 5 Jun, 2008 2nd
with malx
with malx
Hidden ??, 2008 -
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
Jon Read 3 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Pythonist 4 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 TR
stevieo10 ?Jul, 2006 TR
with gritrashgraham
with gritrashgraham
dominic lee ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
Ram MkiV 15 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S Great climbing on brilliant holds.
with Alex
Great climbing on brilliant holds.
with Alex
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 Lead
Hidden 7 May, 2005 Lead
mark s ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden 8 Jun, 2004 Lead rpt
Hidden 2 May, 2004 2nd
Hidden 1 Oct, 2003 Lead β
DubyaJamesDubya 16 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S Wonderful route. Felt comfortable at the grade.
with Martin Flint
Wonderful route. Felt comfortable at the grade.
with Martin Flint
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Gus ??, 2002 Lead
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 2002 -
steveb2006 15 Jul, 2001 Lead The crumbly hole gives a (dodgy?) crucial runner for the crux stretch and rockover to a good hold. Another blind tricky move to gain teh top - good route but crumbly rock at the hole is a bit worrying
with Roland Smith
The crumbly hole gives a (dodgy?) crucial runner for the crux stretch and rockover to a good hold. Another blind tricky move to gain teh top - good route but crumbly rock at the hole is a bit worrying
with Roland Smith
Hidden 12 May, 2001 Lead O/S
nige ?May, 2000 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
tmawer ??, 1999 Lead O/S
Billg 1 Nov, 1998 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
with Phil McAllistair
Mike_d78 1 Sep, 1997 Lead
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 1 Sep, 1997 2nd O/S
uphillnow 22 May, 1997 2nd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
Hidden 30 May, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Neil McA 13 Oct, 1990 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson
with Martin Wilson
sadams 31 Aug, 1990 Lead HVS in Mark's guide!!
with Mark Bonham
HVS in Mark's guide!!
with Mark Bonham
Roget ??, 1989 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Rick51 14 Jul, 1985 2nd
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
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