UKC

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Ramshaw is home to some of the hardest routes in Britain and most of them are graded HVS - a Yosemite style tape job is the only access requirement! There are no access problems at the main crag. However, do not try and climb at Lady Rock (the buttresses on the far right above the farm house), these are not on access land, the owner lives very close and has been confrontational.

14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, steep and stretchy and with plenty of buckets to swing about on. The finish feels a bit bolder and a long way off the ground and sadly the crucial runner placement is now very worn. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Boysen 1977.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 26 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I highly doubt the protection would hold, rock seems very soft and brittle at the same time.
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βeta: I highly doubt the protection would hold, rock seems very soft and brittle at the same time.
Pythonist 13 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
βeta?
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βeta: Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
Fiend 8 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
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βeta: Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
Pythonist 4 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts! Fantastic moves, though it's over very quickly, as the finish is basically gained via two big moves from the ledge. Keep those heels hooking!
βeta?
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βeta: I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts! Fantastic moves, though it's over very quickly, as the finish is basically gained via two big moves from the ledge. Keep those heels hooking!
Fiend 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
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βeta: Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
mark s 7 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.
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βeta: aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ramshaw Rocks

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Commander Energy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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