14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, steep and stretchy and with plenty of buckets to swing about on. The finish feels a bit bolder and a long way off the ground and sadly the crucial runner placement is now very worn. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Boysen 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.


ClimberDateStyle
MusicalMountaineer 22/May 2nd O/S

Brilliant lead from Joe. 2 blockbusting moves! Spurious bits of rock...

with Joe
fuzzysheep01 22/May Lead O/S

Great route. Gear before traverse feels less than ideal. Top out was seriously sandy and lichenous (read sketchy).

mskngch ?/May Lead dnf
Cake 30/May/16 Lead O/S

The crux is absolutely superb and enjoyable with a massive cam and hex. The general jug-hauling is second-to-none I have done.

with Matt
druss 20/Mar/16 2nd β

Steeper than it looks with very good hold once you commit to going for them.

with Carlos
liebs 16/Nov/15 TR O/S
Stoff 04/May/15 TR dog
with Andrew, gpcomps
gpcomps 04/May/15 TR dog

Out of my comfort zone, but very pleased to have made the crux despite the rests

with Andrew, Chris Bridgland
dunnyg 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with mikey mumc and others
tim newton 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with huw goodall
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Very good! Quite tricky to route read, although I should have just read the guidebook properly

Laurence Everitt 06/Sep/14 Lead RP

Ground up

ldadams 02/May/14 TR O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hannes B 21/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
andybirtwistle 03/Aug/13 TR
pipof747 20/May/13 Lead O/S
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 26/Jul/12 TR RP
Stoney Boy 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Agreed with the comments below. The friend placement is fairly poor now due to erosion and probably best not tested.

with Nick Conway
Nick Russell 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S

very enjoyable, despite the crux being above truly awful gear!

WillDoyle 25/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mike W 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah Rudd
Alex Winter 13/May/12 Lead β

Got the numbers from Niels and Jake, so I had it more or less wired before leaving the ground. Great climbing. Fell off the back down a hole somehow.

with Jake and Niels
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 27/Mar/12 Lead dnf
timmyhobby 22/Mar/12 Lead dnf

backed off cos i couldn't trust committing to the side of a load of gear in a sketchy slot!

Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Nickc ??/2012 -
Jonny Nick 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
andrew hammond 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Davies
phildavies84 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Andrew
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead dnf
lukea 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dan
Graeme Hammond 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

EXCELLENT!! with good moves between good holds. the cam slot is very rather worn though there is possibly a good small wire below if the rock doesn't crumble but the top isn't run-out as per rockfax and it felt soft not hard at the grade

shed_hed 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Nice climb. First E2 climbed. Marked for a possible future lead when I'm ready for E2!

Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
mattyork2 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Bloody excellent. Crafty hex beta ( ;

with Rob Highland, Ruth Colston, Jimmy Highland
jacobjacob 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
ciaran1999 17/Apr/10 2nd
with jacob
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
sgl0jd 09/Jul/09 Lead

resorted to using a knee :)

Jez ?/May/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Floris
hamish2016 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Luke Lindsay
Boy ?/Mar/09 -
with Ryan Edwards
maffujones 20/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Adam Quinn
Luke Brooks 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Macdonald
Pete Graham 05/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Jon Read 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Pythonist 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
switch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Leanne
Hidden ?/Jul/06 TR
stevieo10 ?/Jul/06 TR
with gritrashgraham
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Great climbing on brilliant holds.

with Alex
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
mark s ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 08/Jun/04 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 02/May/04 2nd
with Hugh
Hidden 01/Oct/03 Lead β
DubyaJamesDubya 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Wonderful route. Felt comfortable at the grade.

with Martin Flint
Hidden ??/2003 -
Gus ??/2002 Lead
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2002 -
Hidden 15/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 12/May/01 Lead O/S
nige ?/May/00 Lead
with mark hounslea
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
Billg 01/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
ste_d 01/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with mik
uphillnow 22/May/97 2nd
with Mark Gray
Hidden 30/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 -
sadams 31/Aug/90 Lead

HVS in Mark's guide!!

with Mark Bonham
Roget ??/1989 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
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Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set