12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb a crack on the right (Four Purists, VS 5a) to the shelf (possible belay). From a lying-down position, attack the awesome roof crack which widens from hands to useless in a very short distance; holds out left help bridge the gap. Western roll into the final section and hoot for glory at having tamed the man-eater. A giant cam slammed into the crack makes it more like E3. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1964 (one sling). FFA. Gabe Regan 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, BMC staffordshire "crackers dozen" crack school, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.


ClimberDateStyle
James S 01/Jul Lead dnf

Was fine until the fists ran out and it became quickly apparent that I have no idea how to climb steep ground wider than that! Totally shut down...

with Yan
James S 01/Jul Lead dnf

Was fine until the fists ran out and it became quickly apparent that I have no idea how to climb steep ground wider than that! Totally shut down...

with Yan
Hidden 01/Jun 2nd
Dan Geh 22/Apr Lead dog

Hard. All fine until the very top moves. Not the best style...

Hidden 25/Mar Lead
MichaelGallimore 25/Sep/16 Lead dnf
FlavioL1989 25/Sep/16 Lead dnf

My arse is still sore from the thorough spanking I received on this one. Slimed off at the top each time!

ashtond6 11/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Need to do more wide stuff

Tophe 04/Jun/15 Lead G/U
with Jonny P
funsized 04/Jun/15 Lead G/U

With tape. Shameful behavaiour!

with Chris
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead β

useful bit of knowledge picked up from noaksie's os go. High effort, low ability. felt sick.

with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead RP

Took a fair few sessions (as I couldnt jam when I started trying it!). Stoked to get it for first time same day as Lindy and on the day we did all brown and whillans routes.

with Lindy Smith
pearson9596 20/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Pete Cawley
Alex Winter 20/Jul/14 2nd β

7 on Staffordshire nose. Nick was able to reach down from the top to remove the highest cam, which made it easier. Fierce, but short-lived. 9pm.

with Nick
Nick Russell 20/Jul/14 Lead dog

7/31. Argh, hard. One point of aid. (I'll say it was in the name of tradition.)

morganator 05/Jun/14 Lead dog

Clean to the slopy rail, clean from there to the top. I can only match the rail to allow L hand out L to the good hold after a rest. It'll go. Headpointing an E4...

with Lindy Smith, Sophie Whyte
soph 18/May/14 Lead dog
with Lindy Smith
MichaelGallimore 15/May/14 Lead dnf
with Miles
Andy Peak 1 12/Mar/14 2nd

Super cool:-)

Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead RP
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
andi turner ??/2013 -
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number Seven of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose. Previously climbed with Lily 15.07.12

with Andy R
Keendan 05/Sep/12 Lead RP

4th E4, lead with gear in. Took about 4 attempts.

with Eszter
monkeyotter 23/May/12 -
with Lee
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dnf
dunnyg 25/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Got to within a foot of the top. Team ground up. Still awesome. Will go one day!

with jamie sparks
Hidden ??/2012 -
dominic lee 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Matt Roberts 15/Aug/11 TR RP

Gritstone - very rough, no need for chalk Very hard to not fall off but after a couple of trys, climbing became more managable

Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead RP
dunnyg 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Did the first bit (hex rest unwilling to jam) then dropped a rope and got some cams. Wow. Hard. Team ground up fail part 2.

with jamie sparks
bigie bob 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

g up

Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Boy ?/Mar/09 -
with Ryan Edwards
Hidden ?/Nov/06 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S

On the morning of our wedding. Great morning with all the boys.

tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tidy
duncan ??/1983 Lead O/S

Date is approximate

with Paul Smith
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Voting
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Mid E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set