88m, 4 pitches. A Route of real character. The rock is superb & the lower piches build interest to a fine climax on the upper tower. Well worth seeking out, and a good choice to extend the day after an ascent of 'Grooved Arete'. Start at the foot of the rib above the grassy chimney.

1) 18m (4a) Climb the rib to a grass ledge & possible belay below a slab of rough striated rock. Climb the slab with interest. or avoid it on the right =, to reach the foot of a narrow rib.
2) 28m (4a) Climb the rib by it's left side, steeply but with good holds, and continue to a large block-strewn ledge below the impressive tower.
3) 20m (4a) Ahead lies an impressive deep V-groove. Enter this from the left & climb steeply up into a recess. Traverse out left to an airy perch & possible belay. Climb the slab in a fine position to a belay below the final steep section of ridge.
4) 20m (4a) Climb the steep rib on it's left, and then stroll along the knife edged ridge to the top.

VARIATION: 3a) 24m (VS 4c) The crack in the tower is climbed direct until a nasty bulge gives access to the chimney above.

Kaisl 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Grusha
James Worthington 13/Jul/17 AltLd

Pitch one and three. Really great route for the grade, if it was easier to get to/in a rockfax guide it would get a lot more ascents I'm sure.

with Greg
Hidden 13/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead
Ste Ridd 23/Apr/16 2nd

As part of a mountain day. GA on Tryfan, met the now legendry Peter Holden and ventured to this crag en route to The Direct Route. Soloed to pitch 3 then went up the chimney variation. Traversed right and did the final pitch of Great Tower Buttress.

Hidden 01/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/13 -
Hidden 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
alwyn101 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Harri777 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Chiz
mike hooper 26/Jun/10 -
with rich pollard, dave dean
howlingbaboon 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

A good climb with some great positions. We took slightly the wrong line on the first pitch. To locate the route, look for a turtle shaped perched block 10m above a groove. This is just to the left of a steep prominent crack. The route starts on the ledge just to the left of the turtle. The route should go up the R hand slab. We went up the L one and traversed across to the striated slab.

with Rob
10 users have this on their wishlist
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 3
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set