88m, 4 pitches. A Route of real character. The rock is superb & the lower piches build interest to a fine climax on the upper tower. Well worth seeking out, and a good choice to extend the day after an ascent of 'Grooved Arete'. Start at the foot of the rib above the grassy chimney.

1) 18m (4a) Climb the rib to a grass ledge & possible belay below a slab of rough striated rock. Climb the slab with interest. or avoid it on the right =, to reach the foot of a narrow rib.
2) 28m (4a) Climb the rib by it's left side, steeply but with good holds, and continue to a large block-strewn ledge below the impressive tower.
3) 20m (4a) Ahead lies an impressive deep V-groove. Enter this from the left & climb steeply up into a recess. Traverse out left to an airy perch & possible belay. Climb the slab in a fine position to a belay below the final steep section of ridge.
4) 20m (4a) Climb the steep rib on it's left, and then stroll along the knife edged ridge to the top.

VARIATION: 3a) 24m (VS 4c) The crack in the tower is climbed direct until a nasty bulge gives access to the chimney above.

ClimberDateStyle
manmike 23/Apr/16 Lead

Warmed up on 'GA' on Tryfan then ventured to this crag en route to 'The Direct Route' on the main cliff. Soloed to pitch 3 then went up the chimney variation. A strenuous & committing VS 4c. We then descended slightly and completed the final pitch of Great Tower Buttress. Very worthwhile link up giving great climbing on clean rock. Awesome mountain day.

Ste Ridd 23/Apr/16 2nd

As part of a mountain day. GA on Tryfan, met the now legendry Peter Holden and ventured to this crag en route to The Direct Route. Soloed to pitch 3 then went up the chimney variation. Traversed right and did the final pitch of Great Tower Buttress.

Hidden 01/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/13 -
Hidden 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
alwyn101 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Harri777 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Chiz
mike hooper 26/Jun/10 -
with rich pollard, dave dean
howlingbaboon 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

A good climb with some great positions. We took slightly the wrong line on the first pitch. To locate the route, look for a turtle shaped perched block 10m above a groove. This is just to the left of a steep prominent crack. The route starts on the ledge just to the left of the turtle. The route should go up the R hand slab. We went up the L one and traversed across to the striated slab.

with Rob
9 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 2
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set