Rockfax Description
A classic route that weaves an unlikely line up this fine cliff. Start below the right end of the quartz pavement where an easy grassy ramp leads up and right.
1) 15m. Climb the grassy ramp to a stance.
2) 25m. Climb up 3m to gain the quartzy ledge. Saunter along this to belay under the groove at its left-hand end.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove for 10m then trend right along a crack to reach the tip of the pinnacle. Step left and climb the slab above to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kirkus Routes, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes.


ClimberDateStyle
RKirke 27/Aug Lead O/S
Stroppy 27/Aug 2nd O/S
sambeaumont 24/Jul AltLd O/S

Did this twice in a day (poor planning). Led all pitches during.

with Anthony
Ewan Russell 17/Jul 2nd O/S
with Kelly, James Worthington
James Worthington 17/Jul AltLd

Pitches 2 and 3. A great finish to Mur y Niwl. I didn't put any great on pitch 2 so Ewan and Kelly could have the full Kirkus experience.

with Kelly , Ewan
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd
John Bunney 09/Jul AltLd

Great finish to Mur Y Nuwl. Last pitch is lovely.

shed_hed 09/Jul AltLd O/S

Nice finish to Mur y Niwl. Led the 'walk' along the quartz to the start of the pitch proper.

Matt Schwarz 08/Jul AltLd O/S
with katie
Katie S 08/Jul AltLd O/S
dinodinosaur 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Climbed as mur y niwl pinnacle wall link up

with Hannah
Hidden 17/Jun AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 17/Jun AltLd O/S

Brilliant route! I led pitches 1 and 3. Also pitched the approach from the gully, which had a move as hard as anything on the route!

with Carmen
Rory Shaw 17/Jun AltLd O/S
with Jo Boyd
Hidden 22/May AltLd O/S
ripper 07/May -

Continued after Mur Y Niwl, I led the ramp and the quartz band in one, Jigi the last long-ish pitch to the top. That quartz pavement is surreal, feels like it's sloping in about three directions at once and I couldn't get my head around how serious it was/wasn't. Couldn't decide if I was being overcautious and a wuss for not just skipping along no-hands (I didn't!)

with Jigi Desai
Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian
George_Surf 07/Aug/16 Lead

wild to think kirkus solo'd this in 1931, very exposed and quite tricky/ bold

rachelpearce01 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
embob 06/Aug/16 AltLd

What a superb route. The quartz pavement is just brilliant - took my time on it! Led the last pitch which is just as good. Easy but run out climbing up the wide crack to the obligatory step on the apex of the pinnacle. Weather closed in on the walk out, and were treated to a rainbow spanning the A5. Memorable, top day out.

with Alex
odox 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Ciara led all pitches, P3 in misty wind.

with Kizzy
Kizzy 06/Aug/16 Lead
with odox
EeFu 30/Jul/16 Lead

P3 only

Kirill 30/Jul/16 2nd

P3 only, after deciding to forego the scary quartz pavement; climbed the P1 of Pinnaclissima instead.

with EeFu
Glyn Davidson 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 2. Guidebook says it's bold but there's tons of gear

with Dan
Dan77 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 + 3

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Jack Manfredi 04/Oct/15 AltLd
with Dad
Tim Francis 02/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 30/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
static266 30/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Great fun, quartz ramp is very strange and the top pitch is amazing! Lead P3.

GermanAlex 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Done after Amphitheatre B., Michael lead pitch 1+2 together, I lead 3. Fantastic positions in a great surrounding!

with Michael
Michael Morrell 26/Sep/15 AltLd

Lead first couple of pitches, Alex did a good lead at the last pitch!

with Alex
C May 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S

bailed onto this from Pinnaclissima after pitch 1

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 30/Aug/15 Lead

Set off up Pinnaclissima but when the whiteout came in, and our friends on the Grimmett kicked a load of loose rock down the valley, and when I saw how wet the 2nd pitch was we bailed onto this.

with C May
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
babymoac 27/Jun/15 AltLd
with Capesy, graham d
DubyaJamesDubya 13/Jun/15 AltLd

I led 1st and 3rd pitches. 3rd pitch one of the best at the grade I've done but felt more like HS

with Andrew Bevan
DanielBryan 23/May/15 2nd
AndrewP 23/May/15 Lead

Great and quirky route. Difficult to protect long traverse with two seconds.

with Josh Chappel, Daniel Bryan
sgl 23/Apr/15 AltLd
with James
Dan724 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Halford
freemanTom 21/Sep/14 AltLd

1st and superb 3rd pitch

with Andy Night
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Sep/14 AltLd

With darkness chasing us, luckily it's straightforward!

with Kev
msoldn 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

p2 only, escape route from Pinnaclissima due to impending darkness

with Sam (tree surgent)
Pete_Frost 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

This is good value for Severe! The quartz pavement is an exercise in steadiness and requires lots of small cams. The top pitch is superb - decent gear lower down, but sparse until you can sling the pinnacle. Led p1 and 3. A huge friend might fit in the crack on the way to the pinnacle.

Hidden 20/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
poeter210 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 19/Jun/14 Solo

After solo ascent of Ampitheatre Buttress. Brilliant. Gaining the start by scrambling down to the Ampitheatre felt demanding.

Hidden 15/Jun/14 -
Col Kingshott 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
scott mayled 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jonny Harrison, A student
cathymiller 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 3. The quartz ramp (P2) is one of the weirdest pitches either of us had done in a while.

oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Al George
guy757 24/Sep/13 -
Peter Lovell 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 3

angie 21/Sep/13 AltLd
TimKnight 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led the quartz ramp. P2 and P3 are great

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
pebbles 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

continuation from mur i niwl. megan p1,me p2 (pitches 5 and 6 of mur i niwl/pinnacle wall linkup in Ground Up guide)

with megan beaumont
pimpy 13/Jul/13 AltLd

lead 2nd pitch

with clare muir
Jim Slater 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

James led the quartz ramp and top wall. Excellent finish to Mur Y Niwl.

with James (Buxton MC), Alan Smith
egg-man 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Chris Manasseh 06/Jul/13 AltLd

Led p2

with Ste Millington
stemill 06/Jul/13 AltLd

Led ramp and slab after Mur Y Niwl. Top pitch is superb!

Rog Wilko 06/Jul/13 AltLd

great route

lithos 01/Jun/13 AltLd
kim.mulji 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Partner led pitch one, which I think is the most scary traverse I have ever done. I wasn't quite on my hands and knees, but felt I was! You just have to trust you feet on the blankish slope, and use the small edges that you find for your hands! I led the second pitch, which was good - the main difficulty being the lay-back crack from the belay, which you can protect well.

Lawrence Dudley 05/May/13 AltLd
with Julian Prieto, Alan Blanchflower
Monkey_Alan 05/May/13 2nd

Should've brought my belay jacket - very cold.

Julian Prieto 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 13/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
jayrenegade 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

I lead the pinnacle pitch.

with Prav
Duncan Campbell 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Bubbles led P1 of pinnaclisma but the second pitch had a wet section around the crux and I had one RP in between me and the deck so finished up this instead. Great climbing for severe.

with Bubbles
themadbrown 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Do not be decieved by the S 4a given in the guidebook-pitch 3 is that but the 'quartzy' ledge of 20?metres was not all pleasant especially when you've climbed Mur y Niwl and you're tired-a metre n a half of ledge which shelves away-exposed with rubbish gear until the far corner! Look for a large rock at the summit rather than the pinnacle we were expecting! Amazing when you top out !

with james
Jams Crwca 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

P1, niceish. P3, 4a HS, very enjoyable and gives the route 3***. P2, 4* - scary as ****, not appreciated, more serious than anything on Mur-y-Niwl.

frankcp87 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the ramp and the ledge. JJ lead the main pitch! Jealous! Great finish for a great day!

with James Clarke
jjclarke70 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Frank
Hidden 20/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
mes32 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led top and amazing pitch! Run out, not Severe. Stood on tip of pinnacle!

MoWalker3 30/Sep/11 -
with Cormac
Falko 30/Sep/11 AltLd

Third time for me and an enduring delight. Put a sling around the top of the pinnacle then stand on the very apex to move leftwards onto the slab.

with Steve M
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Becky E 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P3. Nice route. The wander along the ledge is easy but unnerving.

Graeme Hammond 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

just led the first short pitch, Becky led the unusual traverse pitch, and excellent final pitch. 3 stars?? a great link up with Mur y Niwl Great day

with Becky E
Graham Westbrook 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd
Rob Exile Ward 09/Jul/11 Lead
with Sam Ward
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Westy
Mark Young 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
scorky345 24/May/11 AltLd
tim20 24/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Lenny 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with John
Adam Booth 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Nice rainbow.

with Tom Jumar
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jshields 09/Apr/11 Lead
Will Hunt 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

payney1973 ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Steve Woollard 04/Sep/10 AltLd
with Bob Dawson
tom.e 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
Alaric 26/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Led all pitches including p3 this time. Pitch 3 is gorgeous, easy wall climbing - run it out :-)

with Ed
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Pilch 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Mel
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
mikelaing ?/May/10 TR
with Ian Whitehead
JiveWeasel 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Being able to predict Mrs W's reaction to the traverse, I volunteered to lead it, and kept tactically quiet about what it was like as I did it. I employed the "Hello dear" gambit to sooth nerves before Mrs W launched across it like a true Mustelid!

Mrs Weasel 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Liked with Mur y Niwl. Amazing climb.Pitch one (JW) no grade listed but I've never enjoyed traverses and the quartz traverse was so unnerving I was practically gibbering! No doubt if it had been on the ground I would have skipped over it but the thought of a huge pendulum virtually froze me completely :-0 Pitch 2 (me) has a nice little crack followed by heading across the face to a fantastic view at the top.

lucasp 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Dave C (Lmc)
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Daniel Wrightson 31/May/09 AltLd
with Steve Gould
jamie ward 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
HimTiggins 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Paul
Conan 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

What a class route. Great traverse pitch and top pitch was even better!

with Philippa Reader
alicia 02/May/09 AltLd O/S

linked Mur y Niwl with this, good combo

with Jamie
Gman ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Terrific finish to the day after Mur y Niwl.

with Eamon
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
Hidden 14/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/06 AltLd
Si dH 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Top pitch probably the best Severe I've ever done - outstanding.

with Andy Morris
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Chesh ?/Aug/05 Lead
with ScotsPaul
duncana 05/Jun/05 AltLd
with Pippa Archer
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Clucky 09/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Paul Dickson
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 06/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

In the mist

with Rebecca
Jamie B ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
Alaric 27/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Nigel M
Dave Rumney 12/Jul/03 -
lukea 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Al
Ann S ?/Jun/03 2nd
with Bill Harrison
Mark Davies PK ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
with steve c
Hidden 03/Sep/02 AltLd
unfit 03/Sep/02 AltLd
with john Norman
Hidden 29/Mar/02 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Bob M ?/Jun/01 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
alan moore ??/2000 -

Kirkus was there...

NeilGriffiths 13/Nov/99 AltLd

Very wet and cold

with James Hubbard
iskra2000 31/Jul/99 AltLd
with Matt Kingsley
Hidden 31/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Sep/98 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Paul-Michael 18/Jul/98 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches.

with David Jupp
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/98 AltLd

Excellent route, really enjoyable, with quite a climax at the end.

with Alan Nuttall
Hidden ??/1997 Solo
Hidden 18/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?/Jul/96 Lead
Tim Bateman 15/Jun/96 Lead
Chris Ellis 06/Aug/95 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Rob Davies 01/May/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
Jim Walton ??/1990 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 11/Jun/88 AltLd
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
with Andy K
wynaptomos ?/Sep/86 Solo O/S
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
RichardMc 16/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Hidden 13/May/84 2nd
babymoac 10/Jul/82 Lead
with MTW & Paul R
leland stamper ?/Nov/81 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/79 AltLd
mikej 29/Jul/77 AltLd
with Mike Byles
jon 21/Jul/74 Lead
with Elaine
Hidden 25/Aug/73 AltLd
Bob M ?/Aug/73 -
with John Dennis
uphillnow ??/1963 Lead

Also soloed

with charlie Tanner
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 45
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set