10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The superb crack and groove are usually soloed as stopping to place gear is such hard work. Worth scary V4 above a mat. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Foord late 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1973. Originally it was climbed on a wet day using nuts to an in-situ peg and called The Big Frig (VS and A1). The name was changed just before the 1973 guide went to print. Chris Craggs took the peg out in the

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire "crackers dozen" crack school, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza

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UserDateNotes
Alex Mason 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: at least E2. E1 6a implies 1 hard and safe 6a move low to the ground, this is a continuous series of unrelenting, powerful 6a moves woven into the sheath of E3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: at least E2. E1 6a implies 1 hard and safe 6a move low to the ground, this is a continuous series of unrelenting, powerful 6a moves woven into the sheath of E3
JTL 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: this route is more powerful than technical (as given)its obvious what to do but power is whats required
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this route is more powerful than technical (as given)its obvious what to do but power is whats required
John Gillott 17 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Such a great route / problem; thin jamming at its best. Hard to grade really. E2 for effort? The boulderers would have to leave their mats at home of course ;-) But with a nut or Friend thrown in quickly at the end of the immediate difficulties, more like E1?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Such a great route / problem; thin jamming at its best. Hard to grade really. E2 for effort? The boulderers would have to leave their mats at home of course ;-) But with a nut or Friend thrown in quickly at the end of the immediate difficulties, more like E1?
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
George Frisby 23 Jun 2nd dog Couldn't make the move to transition from the first crack into the second one. Would like to come back and try above some mats.
Couldn't make the move to transition from the first crack into the second one. Would like to come back and try above some mats.
rowland penty 22 Jun Lead G/U Tried the start about 5 times, did it by bypassing the baggier fingerlocks with a big move to the thinner higher crack. The rest of the route was the most pumped i've ever been in my life and not fallen off.
Tried the start about 5 times, did it by bypassing the baggier fingerlocks with a big move to the thinner higher crack. The rest of the route was the most pumped i've ever been in my life and not fallen off.
spidey 15 May Solo dnf Hand jam at top not secure enough to proceed. Will go back to finish
with luke384
Hand jam at top not secure enough to proceed. Will go back to finish
with luke384
luke384 15 May Solo dnf What a climb looks piss, took few goes to work out the sequence from the jug then too bolloxed to carry on from the big left hand pinch. Keeps coming
with spidey
What a climb looks piss, took few goes to work out the sequence from the jug then too bolloxed to carry on from the big left hand pinch. Keeps coming
with spidey
themattyshep 17 Jan Sent dnf Had to go to work, fell just before the easy section making a girly scream as I came off onto the pads!
Had to go to work, fell just before the easy section making a girly scream as I came off onto the pads!
Hidden 27 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U
arasham 27 Oct, 2017 2nd dog
ashtond6 26 Aug, 2017 Sent dnf
soph 25 Mar, 2017 2nd
with Andy Banks
with Andy Banks
Jack jk 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Hard start. looking forward to the tussle again next time.
Hard start. looking forward to the tussle again next time.
PeteWilson 12 Aug, 2016 2nd so horribly dirty.
with Mike Hutton
so horribly dirty.
with Mike Hutton
Ram MkiV 3 Apr, 2016 Solo rpt
Robin Nichols 18 Feb, 2016 Solo O/S
with Jemma
with Jemma
Nick Russell 25 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Absolutely pitiful. Came off at least twice on the lower crack. Eventually got up to the jug and couldn't make the moves up into the next crack. Abandoned any remaining dignity and aided up it. The grimy green groove at the top had me gibbering. One to come back to, I think.
Absolutely pitiful. Came off at least twice on the lower crack. Eventually got up to the jug and couldn't make the moves up into the next crack. Abandoned any remaining dignity and aided up it. The grimy green groove at the top had me gibbering. One to come back to, I think.
Jake Young 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
benkelsey 23 May, 2015 Lead
AlexRenshaw 26 Apr, 2015 -
Somerset swede basher 9 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
JHC 8 Aug, 2014 Sent
Ky 26 May, 2014 Lead dnf Nails
with Andi Turner
Nails
with Andi Turner
Alex Winter 14 Mar, 2014 Lead Had tried this years ago. Bouldered out the start a few times, placing gear and then jumping off. Felt OK once figured out. Was a bit gripped at the top, final groove was manky.
with George
Had tried this years ago. Bouldered out the start a few times, placing gear and then jumping off. Felt OK once figured out. Was a bit gripped at the top, final groove was manky.
with George
Ian Broome 25 Feb, 2012 Sent To the middle jug, stout.
with Pete, GrantB
To the middle jug, stout.
with Pete, GrantB
snomonkee 19 Nov, 2011 Sent x Only the start
with rich_hw
Only the start
with rich_hw
Graeme Hammond 19 Nov, 2011 Solo G/U Solo full route above pads, took a massive but safe fall from the upper crack going for first juggy jam over the bulge. Got next go but then realised there was one more hard moves before it eased off onto slightly damp and green jams above, but falling off was not an option by then. EXCELLENT!!!!
Solo full route above pads, took a massive but safe fall from the upper crack going for first juggy jam over the bulge. Got next go but then realised there was one more hard moves before it eased off onto slightly damp and green jams above, but falling off was not an option by then. EXCELLENT!!!!
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Solo dnf
benkelsey 23 Jul, 2011 Solo dnf no skin/arms left.
with remus
no skin/arms left.
with remus
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
sam820 24 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf Fell off jug. Very tired, didn't bother with 2nd attempt
with Fresher
Fell off jug. Very tired, didn't bother with 2nd attempt
with Fresher
dominic lee 28 Aug, 2010 Solo rpt
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
dan gibson 3 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
Hidden 3 Apr, 2009 Solo O/S
Paz 17 Dec, 2008 Sent dnf Bottled top out from jug.
Bottled top out from jug.
Birdo ?Aug, 2008 Solo RP
phil64 ??, 2008 Lead Great fun after hard start
with dave evans
Great fun after hard start
with dave evans
Si Witcher ??, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2005 Lead dog
mark s ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
r0b 12 Apr, 2004 Lead dnf
with Andy Smith
with Andy Smith
Roget ??, 2003 Solo rpt
Hidden ??, 2003 -
andi turner ??, 2003 Lead
with Mark Sharratt
with Mark Sharratt
Gus ??, 2003 Lead
Jon Read ?Aug, 2001 -
Billg ?Nov, 1998 Lead dog 1 fall
with Phil McAllistair
1 fall
with Phil McAllistair
andrew300169 30 Jun, 1993 Lead dnf
with nai
with nai
nai ??, 1991 Solo
Neil McA 25 Sep, 1986 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson
with Martin Wilson
Steve Clegg 26 Jun, 1984 Solo
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Bouldered
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set