Rockfax Description
18m. A great route, the crag is worth the visit just for this route. From the cave pull onto the face (massive thread and just about worth 5a) then climb the centre of the face trending slightly left until it is possible to step back right to the well positioned final crack. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly c.1916

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour.

paulsross 29/Aug/16 2nd
with Phil Biglands
C May 25/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Nice climb but dirty, more people need to climb at the crag to improve the condition

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 25/Jul/16 Lead

Greeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeen. And midgey.

with C May
LovelyMrTom 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Eased after the starting moves were dealt with!

with Chris Brown
chrisbrown2050 24/Jul/16 2nd
Ross88 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Danny A
g1m147 26/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Darron ??/2016 -
Climbster 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Vick
GermanAlex 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Found the crux (straight off the deck) rather hard, a boulder problem for sure. Enjoyable climbing follows, not sure about 3*.

with Arno
Hidden 12/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead
bryce.dorin 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Jake Young 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
OliWoolland ?/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 23/Aug/14 Lead

Filed on overhang, came in from L, which was still 4c

with Sue
georgenvk 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
Becks87 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Guy Atkinson 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Really good route! Interesting slant to the rock makes the middle section feel pretty out there for a VS.

with Adam Lindley
atom 16/Aug/14 2nd
jimbonfire 27/Jul/14 -
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 TR
TraverseKing 21/Jun/14 2nd
sting 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Should have used the 'massive thread' ;)

with kwaidy
kwaidy 10/Aug/13 2nd
with sting
saxonzulu 12/Jul/13 2nd
Bry 09/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
John Nuttall 06/May/13 Lead
with Sharon
towdman 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sue Armitage, Graham Armitage
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
augustus trout 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Phil Jarvis
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
Jim Slater 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
eel 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Ewano 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Not bad, wasn't as blown away as guide book had me to believe i would be.

mjeffery 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
Batt 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Entertaining bottom, almost too many hand holds to work it out! High right foot lob and pull. Rest is lovely.

Hoyes 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
miles01 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Palindrome ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
JonG ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
gazfellows 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with shaun d
cjc2001 24/Jul/11 2nd

Great climb, start easier than it looks

Hidden 12/Jul/11 2nd
lithos 26/Jun/11 2nd
with carmen
Simon Caldwell 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Carmen led. This time I started up the left arete, which was good but would be too bold to lead. Sooner or later I'll manage the proper start!

with Rob, Carmen
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
RM199 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
lithos 03/Jul/10 Lead

quality, bouldery start then sustained interest but never hard and good gear.

pebbles 03/Jul/10 2nd
with rob
embob 22/May/10 2nd

Hard start indeed! Al made short work of it, I fell off a couple of times. Also struggled carrying the 16 pieces of gear Al laced the route with :-) Really really nice route.

with Alex
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 04/May/10 Lead O/S

Best VS i have ever done

atom 03/May/10 Lead O/S

awesome climb despite bouncing hail

Jethro ?/May/10 2nd
cooper leek 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with trigg, donk
donkster 18/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with trigg, ben
Graeme Hammond 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 12/Sep/09 2nd
cem 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with John Evans
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
jshields 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 12/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Foster
HansUDes 01/Jul/09 2nd RP

VS 5a, with Dom and Helen Oughton, Rucksack Meet

with Dom Oughton
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 31/May/09 Lead rpt
with Phil Ashton
Quarryboy 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Bill got a bit pissy although if he had fallen off hed have hit the deck from 5 meters up

with Molly Bradbrook, Bill Crawley, David Bradbrook
Daniel Armitage 26/Sep/08 Lead
towdman 26/Sep/08 Lead β
Graham Armitage 26/Sep/08 2nd
with towdman
adi bryant 16/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben
jonka ?/Sep/08 Lead
with gareth
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mancunianimport ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Solo O/S
BallsofBritishSteel 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kirill
Kirill 28/Jul/07 2nd

beautiful, shame it was Rob's turn to lead

Hidden 23/Jun/07 Lead β
Different Steve 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead
russonly 11/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Hard starting move leads to a great upper section. As with all this crag, best done when completely dry. Could do with lots more traffic to clean it up. Worth the walk in on a nice day.

with PeteS
FrankW 04/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Joe
alan moore ??/2006 -

The stuff of legend. Quite sustained in the middle stretch.

Hidden 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
mol 02/Oct/05 2nd
with Haggis
donkster ?/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with den steve
chrishedgehog 04/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Jen Dargue
snowy owl 09/Apr/05 2nd
chrishedgehog 09/Apr/05 Lead
dan_o_b ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/04 Lead
with Richard Bower
Michael Brown 15/May/04 Lead O/S

The wind was a little un-nerving on the final bit.

jonnyboy ??/2004 Lead O/S

best ever vs on grit??

with Lucie Hallas
Hidden 20/Aug/03 2nd
Simon Caldwell 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Carmen
PenJD 18/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Ascroft
IanGilbertJones 07/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/02 2nd
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/01 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 30/Jun/01 2nd
Mark Davies PK ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Laura
cem 17/Jun/00 Lead O/S
snowy_woodruff 30/Apr/00 Lead
with Mem
Bullybones ??/2000 -
fellgazelle ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Martin Senior
Ian Archer 22/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with James Leavy
Martin Bennett 14/Jun/96 -
with Barry Hurst
Rob Davies ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Roy Lindsay
Hidden 09/Apr/95 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 06/Aug/94 Lead

Peter Harding was in his early 70s. He had first done the climb about 55 years before.

with Steve Dean, Peter Harding, John Lumb
Iain Thow 30/Aug/93 Lead

A truly great route.

with Christine King
Roget 28/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones
ste_d 18/May/91 Lead O/S
with mik
Stoney Boy 09/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
babymoac 13/Jul/86 Lead
with MTW
Nigel Bond 04/Apr/81 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 12/Jun/76 2nd
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

probably with Al Bennett

Falko 06/Jun/75 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
Dave Musgrove 07/Oct/73 -

I believe it was only Hard Severe in the guidebook we had at the time. Don't remember anything special about it so surprised to see it gets such a hyped write up in Over the Moors?

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set