18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike, swing round the arete and climb to ledges and a stance (5a). Head up the corner to the roof, step left and pull over rapidly to access the easier head wall - wild! © Rockfax

FA. Ivar Berg 1916

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Hard Grit history, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Ultimate E1 ticklist, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Nick Smith - Climbers 19 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tim-the-evans 22 Apr AltLd
Hidden 22 Apr AltLd O/S
Alkis 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
AlistairBerridge 7 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Alkis
with Alkis
mrphilipoldham 18 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U Ivar Berg, take a bow. What a feat! Got tempted by the jugs higher than the spike (E2 5c Cave Eliminate?) and ended up in back in the cave. Rob took a foot to the balls, and still caught me perfectly. Eventually sussed it by staying level with the spike, a delightful sequence led to the safety of the arete and a rest! One to do again for pictures..
Ivar Berg, take a bow. What a feat! Got tempted by the jugs higher than the spike (E2 5c Cave Eliminate?) and ended up in back in the cave. Rob took a foot to the balls, and still caught me perfectly. Eventually sussed it by staying level with the spike, a delightful sequence led to the safety of the arete and a rest! One to do again for pictures..
devious wally 18 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S Kudos to phil who wouldn’t let it go and got it in the end, the kick in the balls was quickly forgotten. A quality little sequence when you know the moves a tough lead though I’m sure
Kudos to phil who wouldn’t let it go and got it in the end, the kick in the balls was quickly forgotten. A quality little sequence when you know the moves a tough lead though I’m sure
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
admackie 25 Mar, 2017 Lead did the hvs finish this whole route was really cool
with Palmer
did the hvs finish this whole route was really cool
with Palmer
paulsross 29 Aug, 2016 2nd Superb route, easier than it looks (to second). Phil had to ab down and clean first.
with Phil Biglands
Superb route, easier than it looks (to second). Phil had to ab down and clean first.
with Phil Biglands
Graeme Hammond 22 Jun, 2014 - On refection I think I didn't really go the right way at the start or the finish, must go back...
with Pete aka Dad
On refection I think I didn't really go the right way at the start or the finish, must go back...
with Pete aka Dad
Dave Musgrove 27 Aug, 2013 2nd On reflection I think we did the old 4b finish. It seemed just as hard as the start, however. Both sections steep and intimidating but with excellent positive holds.
with Paul Farrish
On reflection I think we did the old 4b finish. It seemed just as hard as the start, however. Both sections steep and intimidating but with excellent positive holds.
with Paul Farrish
j.buckley87 7 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
j.buckley87 7 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
j.buckley87 7 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 2nd
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 2nd dnf
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2010 TR
Hidden 4 May, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Si dH 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Rockfax line at the top seems ridiculous. You have to go up above it then drop back down on to it when the sensible line is staring you in the face. It would involve traversing the lower break with your feet heel hooking higher than your hands (the break gets slightly loer as it goes round). I dont believe for a minute that Ivar Berg soloed that! On Peak Rock identifies the E1 as simply an alternative start to eitherthe HVS or VS. Im pretty sure On Pek Rock is right! Having said all that, the start (worth E1 5b on its own easily) and the finish (the HVS way) are both very good, althoguh the middle is scrappy.
with Chris Foster
Rockfax line at the top seems ridiculous. You have to go up above it then drop back down on to it when the sensible line is staring you in the face. It would involve traversing the lower break with your feet heel hooking higher than your hands (the break gets slightly loer as it goes round). I dont believe for a minute that Ivar Berg soloed that! On Peak Rock identifies the E1 as simply an alternative start to eitherthe HVS or VS. Im pretty sure On Pek Rock is right! Having said all that, the start (worth E1 5b on its own easily) and the finish (the HVS way) are both very good, althoguh the middle is scrappy.
with Chris Foster
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
jonnyboy 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 26 Sep, 2008 2nd
adi bryant 16 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Earliest E1!? Mountain multipitch?
with Ben
Earliest E1!? Mountain multipitch?
with Ben
Hidden 11 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S
cem 28 Jul, 2007 Lead rpt
CrispsSmiths 28 Jul, 2007 2nd
with cem
with cem
Different Steve 14 Apr, 2007 Lead dog Damn! - 1 rest on the spike
with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
Damn! - 1 rest on the spike
with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
dan_o_b ?Sep, 2004 2nd O/S
cem 9 Aug, 2003 2nd
with Liam Mark, Dan Muldoon
with Liam Mark, Dan Muldoon
steveb2006 30 Jun, 2001 Lead Appears I did the finish of Cave Crack on the left so we do Cave Crack...
with Roy Ruddle
Appears I did the finish of Cave Crack on the left so we do Cave Crack...
with Roy Ruddle
Gordon Stainforth 6 Aug, 1994 2nd O/S could not follow strenuous start :(
with Steve Dean, John Beatty
could not follow strenuous start :(
with Steve Dean, John Beatty
Stoney Boy 9 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
with Phil Cundy
Andy Say 18 Sep, 1986 Solo O/S
Sean Kelly ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set