12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The classic of the crag. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position precariously. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (big nut) and a tricky (crucial if you are pumped?) finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though the modern alternative of sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1914

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Stukaill 18/Apr 2nd
bigbobbyking 09/Apr 2nd
with Chris Bull
James Worthington 08/Apr Lead
with Emma
db79 08/Apr Lead O/S
chelle 08/Apr TR β

πŸ€”πŸ˜Š

Stefan_TR 06/Apr Lead

Cool route, did it in the dark (with a headtorch) making the traverse of the scoop quite fun! took a couple of goes to figure out the first bit (indeed difficult as a shorty). Topped out to the right which made for a very scary top out! I think it's a much easier top out if you head left a bit and use the good pinch thing.

Hidden 05/Apr TR
Jules Lane 02/Apr Lead rpt
with Mynydd Paul Justin
Ciaran Mullan 25/Mar Lead dnf
with Malte Vesper
Ciaran Mullan 25/Mar TR O/S
with Malte Vesper
Ciaran Mullan 25/Mar Lead dnf
with Malte Vesper
Ciaran Mullan 25/Mar TR O/S
with Malte Vesper
Wizzy 25/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd β
Gareth Collom 24/Mar TR
with Nik
maria85 24/Mar 2nd O/S
with Neil
hiyaneil 24/Mar Lead

Awesome!

with maria85
davewsargent 12/Mar 2nd
with paul t
Retro Rowan 11/Mar Lead dog
benjaminwhite001 11/Mar Lead O/S
with dave192939
Tim Harper 11/Mar Lead O/S
Dave192939 11/Mar 2nd O/S
with Chris Harding, Ben White
alexcollins123 11/Mar 2nd O/S
JoeFoster59 06/Mar Solo rpt

Pretty pleased with this after bailing off it as my first HVS this time last year then having lead it last april. Pretty cool to get it as a solo even though its similar to leading it. Best route of the grade at castle naze makes it worth coming.

Stopsy 23/Jan Lead O/S
with Sam Butler
TimSolway 02/Jan Lead RP
darrenpp ??/2017 TR
ryry ??/2017 -
Joecartmell 04/Dec/16 Lead

Boulder move to start, run out along the scoop, then plenty of gear for a pumpy finish

jonathandavey 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Very glad to get this done after procrastinating for ages. A beautiful day at the crag.

with Jake
w-watson 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Butch
davelongbottom 05/Nov/16 Lead β
with Cathy
Kris2fa 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 04/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Stefan Trebicki 24/Sep/16 TR
with Dave Palmer
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hillson 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Michael Morrell
Michael Morrell 16/Sep/16 2nd
MichaelConstantinou 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Sarah Statham 13/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Mike
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
Mike_Gannon 08/Sep/16 TR dog

just an awkward first move. Once I had that it was a great climb. The top out feels hard. not sure I'll be leading this one any time soon

with Scott Robinson
john lynch 04/Sep/16 Solo rpt
with Bethan D
john lynch 04/Sep/16 Solo rpt
with Bethan D
AnneMarie 02/Sep/16 2nd
jwpil 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ben
adi bryant 01/Sep/16 Lead
with Sam
Hidden 28/Aug/16 TR
Rob Gillespie 23/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with M60OON
M60OON 23/Aug/16 2nd dog
with rob 528
drolex 17/Aug/16 -
paul79 17/Aug/16 Lead
alaster tonge 15/Aug/16 TR rpt
alaster tonge 13/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Fell off just before the scoop, foot slipped on polished foothold. Bruised foot a bit and repeated as second, clean, two days later. Mustn't fall off polished footholds in future1

Radical-G 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Stephen3005 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
mrphilipoldham 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
devious wally 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Polished holds low down add to the difficulty. Feels brilliantly bold once you gain the scoop. Love it

George Frisby 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Gav Williams 05/Jul/16 Lead
with Amy
jon22 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Neil Griffith
NeilGriffiths 03/Jul/16 Lead
with John Sealy
Smeagol 05/Jun/16 TR dog
AdamFreeman 30/May/16 Lead O/S
katyc 28/May/16 2nd
TDSvejstrup 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 2nd
Keith Swainson 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Georgie
samkat 08/May/16 Lead
with Bex
stevelismore 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with peak Glenn
fechtn 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Glen
Nafclimbsrocks 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Oldmanofsalford 07/May/16 2nd
with Nathan
Droyd 20/Apr/16 Solo rpt

One pad for the start

Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead β
Stroppy 20/Apr/16 Solo rpt
JoeFoster59 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really happy with this. I tried the start on my last visit but due to massive frostbite(?) I couldn't stick it. Today the start felt much easier (better weather) the traverse was simple enough over to the bomber hex placement(heard rumours of a red hex for this, definitely the right piece). The finish is sublime elated to top out brilliant route 10/10 would bang again.

with Louis
gtaylor997 13/Apr/16 TR O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 13/Apr/16 Lead

Dubious red torque nut in pocket - were old fashioned hexes wider/longer (thus taller when stood on their end)? Lovely route, tho quite bold

smoreda 13/Apr/16 2nd
therat 10/Apr/16 -
dan_o_b 10/Apr/16 2nd rpt
louisr23 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
stratandrew 10/Apr/16 Lead rpt
will484 03/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/16 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 25/Mar/16 Solo O/S
MusicalMountaineer 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

One of my big ticks for the day. Didn't find the lower part tough being 6ft. Sh!t myself once the gear was in! Brilliant varied route. Loved it.

with Nik
Barrie Schofield II 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S
sambeaumont 16/Mar/16 Lead O/S
liebs 09/Feb/16 Lead β
Hidden ??/2016 -
jimxxx ??/2016 -
pietrod ??/2016 -
craig.england1 ??/2016 2nd
with Mic A
Mike_T_A1 ??/2016 Lead
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Lead
with Mark Auty, Keith Colwell
Tithe Technique 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
valentinesbabe 01/Nov/15 TR O/S

Excellent lead by Charley. Didn't think I'd get up this but managed it okay with lots of encouragement from some random onlookers :-) The climbing isn't that difficult, just very balancy.

charley 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Ange, Kev
Bryan M 01/Nov/15 Lead
with Susannah Penk
garywong 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
CraigOsborne 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Gordon W 18/Oct/15 2nd rpt
chrismadar 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
g.chalker 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mattcooperkay 11/Oct/15 2nd β
tom bre 11/Oct/15 2nd rpt
George Killaspy 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Matt
jimmysdead 04/Oct/15 Lead β

Foot slipped on the glassy hold before the scoop, had to have the right cam sent up to fit the pocket. Pumped from the issues and made the final moves feel desperate.

with Victor, Ade Halliwell, Charlotte
Robin Nichols 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
with Jim, Roger
kez1 ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Frankie davies
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
spence 19/Sep/15 2nd
TiffTiff 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 19/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Glassy

Droyd 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Camilla Brimble, Joe Mortimer
Hoyes 15/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Tom B
yossarian714 15/Sep/15 Lead β
Hidden 05/Sep/15 2nd
benny_m 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Su
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Becks87 23/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Gordon W 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
atom 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Very scary and very worthwhile, found a small cam placement in the break left of the scoop but really shouldn't have placed it on single rope. Precarious cam in the mouth of the flared pocket but found a great place for a 0.5 cam a few inches to the right before a quick exit to the top. Best climb I've done in a long time

Lukem6 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with bethy, Jenny Monkey
Jenny Monkey 22/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/15 2nd
manwithacam 11/Aug/15 Lead

Deserves its status as good climb, evening session, only ones at crag, prob last evening out of year, climbed as sun just setting. Doesnt get much better.

with Sarah
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jamiejsn 05/Aug/15 TR O/S

We set up a top rope to establish gear. Unfortunately it started raining before a chance for Luke to lead it. You do not want to be stuck on a slippery scoop in the wet!

with Luke Weaver
08nbrierley 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
watson.b 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with nicky
C Witter 15/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Bold lead, but very pleasant and enjoyable to second.

Bertbee 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great route. Perhaps a touch high in the grade, as there is close to no gear apart from the obvious letterbox.

Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd
HazelMacLean 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

scary.

cem 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
monkeymatt 01/Jul/15 Lead β
with Harry Boston
Rob Gillespie 29/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Felix la shat 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with ben grounsell
matt.stevenson 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Amy Sears 04/Jun/15 2nd
snowfluke 02/Jun/15 TR O/S

Deserves it's status. The first move is the hardest with the slippery hand hold, the others are solid and as you move up they feel more committing. Top roped it this time, aiming to lead this one day.

with ant
tmawer 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 30/May/15 2nd rpt
with Tony
paulwaterhouse 25/May/15 TR

Barefoot ascent.

HannahGo 25/May/15 TR dog
Martin Bennett 10/May/15 -
with NickH
Little Amy ?/May/15 TR RP
with Alex
stratandrew 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Alexandra Pawlik, Steve Graham
Coel Hellier 26/Apr/15 Lead
Yinners 25/Apr/15 2nd β
with David
onlyfoddington 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

So glad I came back to do this. We were initially thwarted by the rain when I was roped up. Came back and could sense rain was on the way which provide all of the impetus I required.

with Yin
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 23/Apr/15 2nd
DanChad 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Easy climbing and definitely worth 3 stars!

with Jay Ibrahim, Chris Murray
CharlieMack 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 20/Apr/15 TR
John Higgs 19/Apr/15 Solo O/S
rockover 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jamie light
Jamie Light 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mesh
RyanOsborne 22/Mar/15 Lead

Slipped off the top of the glassy holds. Didn't hurt myself, and got back on it but it felt laboured and nervy after the fall.

with Elena
OliWoolland 15/Mar/15 2nd dog
bryce.dorin 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 14/Mar/15 Lead
with Ollie, Nick Manasseh
Private Flounder 14/Mar/15 2nd
with chris manasseh
harry_lewis 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Harmon
Matt Harmon 07/Mar/15 Lead β

led on Harry's gear just after he had led it

MSchobitz 07/Mar/15 Lead β
MischaHY 28/Feb/15 Solo rpt
with ned_85
ned_85 28/Feb/15 Lead
jamesb101 22/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
GouldHarry ??/2015 Lead O/S
philhc ??/2015 -
jezb1 31/Dec/14 Lead
benkelsey 20/Nov/14 Solo O/S

At night on the way back from Gogarth in complete fog - damp.

Hidden 31/Oct/14 Lead
Jake Young 12/Oct/14 Solo O/S
David Shelmerdine 12/Oct/14 TR β
Alex_Derbyshire 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really nice committing climb that I've had my eye on for a while

Hidden 26/Sep/14 TR O/S
planetmarshall 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Could be such a wonderful climb if it weren't for the polished start.

with Helen Mort
Graham Westbrook 20/Sep/14 2nd
Stroppy 14/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Barefoot ascent

with Josh Brown
Stickle Tarn 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Gold BD cam in the pocket.

Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Wright.phil 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

1st HVS

john lynch 07/Sep/14 Solo

Really nice and quite exciting

with Anna d, Bethan D
Haydn Jones 31/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Alex Hallam 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Scarier than it looks, if you fell off the top you'd definitely hit the floor. Mesmerising.

with Ben Freeman
Louis Miller 01/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Excellent climbing, was just taking a look at the bottom in approach shoes, next thing I knew I was in the scoop and thought may aswell carry on!

WeeLee 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Duncan 88 26/Jul/14 2nd
Patrick Green 25/Jul/14 Lead β
with Andy Deans
angus 20/Jul/14 Solo O/S
meltdown34 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Bron 16/Jul/14 2nd dog
dan_o_b 16/Jul/14 Lead
stratandrew 16/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Albachoss 13/Jul/14 Solo rpt
kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Solo rpt
KeenClimber 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jim Nutall
MD 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 12/Jul/14 2nd RP

Getting off the ground is the hardest part!

with Mike D
al jackson 04/Jul/14 Lead
el disco 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S

almost managed the direct start, but had to get in from the side.

with jonny phillips
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Christine Beeston
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ceara
thomasmouse 21/Jun/14 2nd
Nick Sherring 21/Jun/14 2nd β
marclloyd77 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Albachoss 16/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Albachoss 16/Jun/14 Solo rpt
matt1024 15/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Great route. Slightly tricky to start, finish on larger holds.

cameron_hall 15/Jun/14 Solo dnf

Should be 'Solo (dogged)'. (!) Got up to the scoop OK but was then psyched out by the surprisingly hard steep section at the top. Got the assistance of a rope to hold on to for the final section. Wishing I'd geared up to do it rather than trying to copy the others who'd soloed it (but also grateful that they were there to give me a hand when needed!).

JdotP 13/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Doctor Sam
alaan 11/Jun/14 Solo O/S
yorkshiresherpa 09/Jun/14 Lead dog
darlolad 09/Jun/14 Lead
Steeve 06/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Ed Hayter 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob84 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rob Adie, Mel
daviesp2 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom
freemanTom 01/Jun/14 Lead

Excellent odd route. Had micro wires thrown up to me to get something in after hard start. Didn't have large enough cam for pocket had passive can placement and wobbly but. Steep finish. Tests you all the way

with Paul Davies
will9911 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mcondon ?/Jun/14 Solo
mike pearson ?/Jun/14 -
petern ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Senna 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Great boulder start, very fun traverse

bantamdave 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Will
benny_m 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard Hemes
steven 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Brian Hull
Don't like e3s 31/May/14 2nd
Bernie L 28/May/14 2nd RP
andyevans 28/May/14 2nd dog

Damp, polished start, flakey end, dogged. Woof woof. Must come back in dry after practice

with cdpuk
cdpuk 28/May/14 Lead O/S

Bold. Micro wires possible after initial hard moves. Light drizzle.

Becks87 25/May/14 2nd O/S
georgenvk 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
phildawson 20/May/14 Lead O/S
Ciaran Mullan 20/May/14 2nd β
john_ni 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Becky Ellis (PCC)
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd O/S
Becky E 18/May/14 2nd dog

Slithered off starting holds a couple of times. Marred by the polish.

oodie72 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ingo Boegeman, Fraser Campbell
RFWilkie 04/May/14 Lead O/S
MatthewH 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 03/May/14 Lead O/S
stuart34 29/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Derek Furze 26/Apr/14 Lead

Caught by torrential hailstorm while near top. Soaked everything and made the finish a real challenge!

with Leigh Harrison
Coel Hellier 20/Apr/14 Lead
will_benfold 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 19/Apr/14 2nd

Took many attempts to get up the scoop, thoroughly enjoyable though!

NickyC 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Zain Karim
gregoritos 18/Apr/14 Solo O/S
BnB 02/Apr/14 -
bencole ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
fuzzysheep01 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 11/Mar/14 -
sparkass 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Quite scary really, the gear in the pocket is about the only gear worth trusting. Very enjoyable none the less.

Alkis 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Adam_42 01/Mar/14 Lead β

A classic and easy to see why.

with Freshers
twildingsteele 01/Mar/14 2nd
Quarryboy 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Didn't have any gear that would fit in the crucial pocket so resorted to stacking nuts which is something I don't have to do all that often, glad I climbed it though as it is probably the most striking feature of the crag.

with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis
Hidden ??/2014 -
pistal10 ??/2014 Lead O/S
sputnik 23/Dec/13 TR
mevanssmith 16/Nov/13 2nd
JM0rrison 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/13 2nd dog
Matt Smith 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S
fredallingham 30/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd rpt
jack01 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Luke
MischaHY 26/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Solo'd on a whim. Great fun once past the super polished slopers at the base.

Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd
tgeh 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 05/Sep/13 2nd RP
with tgeh
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd rpt
rich_hw 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nikki
MaccMark 28/Aug/13 Lead
MaccMark 28/Aug/13 2nd
augustus trout 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd β
Anne Gumbley 24/Aug/13 2nd
markfairbank 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
j.buckley87 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/13 2nd RP
friendzone1234 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
D.botts87 24/Jul/13 2nd
with Jerome
Jeromecooper 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
mrginna 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
TJ Mather 19/Jul/13 2nd RP

Very hard start, then it gets easier but very bold.

with Andrew Finney
dicky79 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with James W, Mike Bottomley
kkris 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Adam
adamashcroft 16/Jul/13 2nd
Michael Brown 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Feet are getting a little polished at the bottom but still grippy enough for hands.

Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd β
monkeymatt 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ollie Couling
amccann 09/Jul/13 Lead rpt
sambosanquet101 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Francy Carranza
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JemG 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Shaun Humpreys
willson 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with chris, Wills
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd rpt
The Norris 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

nearly got persuaded that putting gear in the big pocket wasnt allowed... nearly.

with Gavin
MaccMark 19/Jun/13 Lead
with Jacqui Clarkson-Jones
James Oakes 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead
The Patriot 10/Jun/13 2nd
rockman 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Bold start

nic42 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with dru
pauldrew 09/Jun/13 Lead
ashmellor 06/Jun/13 TR
amccann 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
mrginna 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
spacecadetjake ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Robbie jenkins
Alistair Corbett 29/May/13 2nd
with john corbett, sam corbett
Landy_Dom 26/May/13 TR O/S

Clean on sight. Was considering leading this but after watching others on it first - it’s BOLD! Frustratingly hard and polished start. Easier for the tall and probably best described as HVS 4c with a 5a/b boulder problem start.

with Catherine, Ciaran Gallagher, Mike Bailey
nacmacfeeglexx08 26/May/13 TR O/S
with Cathrine Murphy, Ciaren Gallagher, Dominic Gallagher
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Rampikino 25/May/13 2nd
with MMC Various
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic

with Beth
sputnik 04/May/13 TR rpt
Rich Malcolm 01/May/13 Lead β
ash longreach ?/May/13 Lead
with Tom
sam corbett ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with John Corbett
Rob Gillespie ?/May/13 Solo rpt
JEP 30/Apr/13 Lead
iantoday 29/Apr/13 2nd
with Jo Taylor, Jamie Parffrey, Darren LeMarquand
Batt 27/Apr/13 2nd rpt
spragglerocks 27/Apr/13 Lead β
with Ali
Lumbering Oaf 27/Apr/13 2nd
Hoyes 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Jules Lane 24/Apr/13 Lead β
with Will
dutybooty 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Found the end hard. Also found it difficult to protect. Loved padding along the ledge.

BTphonehome 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 06/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Bram
debbie roberts 31/Mar/13 2nd
Marti999 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Ewano 19/Feb/13 Lead β

Soft HVS, one tricky 5a move, the rest is simple. Really pleasant though.

Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd
Jim Brownlow 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Purser, Liam O'Loughlin
Hidden ??/2013 -
C May ??/2013 2nd
with Tim
Scott Anderson ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2013 Lead
with C May
joeflan 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 21/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with Matt Gordon, Ian Makin
kelliroberts3 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JenDurden 14/Oct/12 Lead
with Gramps
ashtond6 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
katiep 13/Oct/12 Lead β

Really good climb, got a little pumped towards the end

with Sian Gardiner
MichaelGallimore 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Albachoss 13/Oct/12 Solo O/S

Fantastic! Much easier with just climbing to focus on. Lead after with a bit of difficulty.

tomdavenport 13/Oct/12 2nd
Will Caesar 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
R2B 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, super grippy.

with Nick
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Lead
Will Caesar 17/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Lead
jmjw 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rob H, Tim R, Sophie R
parker236 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Glad to finally get it done. Wasnt nice topping out in the wind and rain.

Bry 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dsgarner 08/Sep/12 2nd dog
matthomas79 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Climbster 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
RichyBOYY 06/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/12 2nd
darlolad 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
petekeron 24/Aug/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
cem 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Pete Colledge
stratandrew 08/Aug/12 2nd

Found the start really hard even though i did it clean first time last month....

with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 05/Aug/12 2nd
UnkArl 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jose
ozzie35 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Rob Gillespie ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 TR RP
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Killianmurphy 28/Jul/12 Lead β
Stoney Boy 23/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Wayne S 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gary
g1m147 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Wayne s
pebbles 21/Jul/12 2nd

couldnt do the first move past the polished ledge at all! eventually resorted to anti gravity delivered via rope

with guido
stratandrew 14/Jul/12 2nd

very polished slopers at start but eases in difficulty.

gw3285 14/Jul/12 Lead
The Blue Bucket ?/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Fell just after making the hard moves onto the scoop , so relieved at getting up placed my whole foot on the big foothold it was covered in sand from the ground and down I came (8 - 10 ft no gear) bottomed out, back up straight away top out not great

mrginna 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Bernie
kenneM 24/Jun/12 Lead
with James Wyatt
Tom Doldon 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with John Doldon
Hidden 13/Jun/12 2nd
mcr_gearfreak 29/May/12 -
amccann 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 2nd
gd303uk 25/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice polished bouldery start, then thin but easy moves to a juggy Finnish and fun top out, enjoyable route,

Hidden 20/May/12 2nd O/S
Climbster 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Leslie
Jonny Nick 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
tolly_60 08/May/12 2nd β

A nice climb.

with David Shelmerdine, Gavin Peach
David Shelmerdine 08/May/12 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peach
kwaidy 05/May/12 2nd
with sting
sting 05/May/12 Lead O/S

over-rated

with kwaidy
MarkRoe 13/Apr/12 2nd O/S
matty123 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
A Crook 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Paul Hy 29/Mar/12 2nd
with Damien K, Tony
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead β
sgl 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ben
tim.fairhall 08/Mar/12 Solo
Dom Whillans ?/Mar/12 Lead
with a.crook
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
tombradshaw123 ??/2012 Lead RP

ONCE AGAIN TOP ROPED IT A FEW WEEKS BEFORE CAM BACK AND LEAD IT, NOT MUCH GEAR, PRETTY LOW FOR A 5A DEFINITELY A HVS NOT MANY PLACES FOR GEAR UNTIL ACTUALLY ON THE SCOOP, VERY NICE CLIMB

g1m147 20/Nov/11 -
with Diane, Samuel
TM_Horton 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with webby
timmyhobby 17/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/11 TR rpt
David Shelmerdine 05/Nov/11 TR
with Gavin Peach
lewiz 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Only HVS?

mishtu 16/Oct/11 2nd
with lewiz
Stevebratt 15/Oct/11 2nd β
with Jase
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd dnf
paul horabin 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
richorme 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Paul Horabin
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
keith Lonsdale 30/Sep/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 30/Sep/11 Lead
joemallia 28/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Viki 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

polished start

Dave Latimer 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tedburt 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
PeteWilson 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

nice route, only placed 2 pieces of gear though! sure there should have been more...

JaseSSDD 15/Sep/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
chrisbussell 06/Sep/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
antroy 23/Aug/11 Lead
jkarran 21/Aug/11 Lead
with Simon, Aly, Pete
Aly 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Simon Bailey, James Karran, Pete Ellis
Hidden 15/Aug/11 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/11 TR
disturbed_one51 14/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
claregardiner 14/Aug/11 Lead
riddle 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
richyg 13/Aug/11 2nd
sputnik 03/Aug/11 TR β
eeonz 02/Aug/11 2nd
Tamati ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
asmith37 24/Jul/11 2nd
Chriswallis2 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Col Allott 28/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
David Kay 28/Jun/11 Lead β

Beta unavoidable with the in depth guidebook description. Thanks Rockfax :p

Lumbering Oaf 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Batt 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Polished balancy start but fun

PhilCartwright 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Shermer, Phil Smith
joe king 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with James Moore, dan towns
DanT 20/Jun/11 2nd RP

James's Lead

with James Moore, Paul Rowlands
mattgrange 15/Jun/11 Lead

Some nervous moments, hard start but the rest has good holds and the pocket runner was a novel experience!

Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
AMJ098 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S

very nice, one size 4 cam in pocket

with Jeremy Crampin, Adam Jordan, Paul Hazell
minirollsrule 24/May/11 Lead β

Amazing good route, quite head gamesy. tiny p-nut in scoop popped out(first gear), bomber but loose hex in big pocket was only protection to topout

with maggsy
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
rockjedi 05/May/11 Solo O/S
culmclimberRob 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

rather polished in places but yea good fun route

with adrian
gw3285 27/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Solo O/S
deklan 26/Apr/11 Lead
with tristan
neillkelly 21/Apr/11 TR
nath_casper 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with adam
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
dabreen 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall 19/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Leon Skeldon, Al Padkin
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd rpt
leon 19/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
AlexxelA 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, loved every minute of it. Loved the pocket after the traverse, stuck a bit cam in there, very reassuring.

Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S
climbinmunkey 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

More like a solo! Size 3 friend in the pocket was insecure; might be better with a hex. Got a confidence nut in before moving across the scoop and one good piece for the top out. Enjoyable and gripping!

with Helen
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Honrei 10/Apr/11 Lead
gravity 09/Apr/11 2nd β

Very polished, but good fun.

with Max Adamson
psychicbread 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jack.Beech 07/Apr/11 TR
Hidden ?/Apr/11 -
rob.s22 ?/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with R.P
daveyji ?/Apr/11 2nd
with JT
lidiaMalecka 24/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 23/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Rachel Slater 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Chi Cheng 22/Mar/11 Solo rpt
RHarding 20/Mar/11 -
with Beard
Stuart William 19/Mar/11 Lead β
with Sid
minirollsrule 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

i think i can lead this route quite easily, the start is quite bouldery and technical but with a nice slabby bit folowed by a thrusty crack :D

with Tim Nixon
AMarchant 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Polished fun

Hidden 17/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/11 2nd
joeflan 15/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sian88 13/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/11 TR
jes82 ??/2011 TR dnf

Couldn't start! :*

Climbfool_88 ??/2011 2nd O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
Goose4 ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
fi15 ??/2011 2nd
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
d_evo20 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Very polished. Didn't have right sized gear for the pocket so last bit of gear was below the scoop!

with James Brownhill
gregoldridge 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

The little flake on the scoop is broken & I didn't have the right sized gear for the large pocket. Got a cam in on Scoop Direct then went back right.

with Mark Peasley
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead
Mike_Hayes 24/Oct/10 -
with Sarah Marks
Aufton 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ali Makay
Steeve 09/Oct/10 Solo RP

although only practice was last years on sight lead.

mike4563 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
hallg005 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
payeo20 25/Sep/10 2nd
Tala A 25/Sep/10 Lead RP

Top-roped once to crack the boulder problem start then lead clean. I'd agree its hard for the short but not impossible. First HVS lead

simeclimb68 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
matthomas79 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Simon Palmer
Howard J 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Jonathan Teal
pog100 05/Sep/10 2nd

Clean!

with Cara, Dan, Meirion, Cath Walton
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
john_ni 21/Aug/10 2nd
hellboundblr 21/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Solo O/S
James Oswald 05/Aug/10 2nd β

Good. Very polished start which felt hard.

colin milton 05/Aug/10 Lead
with James Oswald
Steven Andrews 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd
crag_hopper_Jay 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
redknight137 23/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead
Hannes B 13/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
tri-nitro-tuolumne 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Filho
jose.climbing 09/Jul/10 2nd
Byronius Maximus 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
shed_hed 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
gpcomps 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
gpcomps 29/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Stoff 29/Jun/10 Lead β

Polished start - hardest part. Not at all happy with the "nut big pocket". Ended up with a nut and cam in the same pocket !

with Mark L, gpcomps
maybe_si 28/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Mitch1990 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

horrible tip toe across scoop

Chris Ellis 27/Jun/10 2nd
with Steve Wade
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ffdalton 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dean Dalton
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead RP
simonward 22/Jun/10 Solo rpt

barefoot

Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wrapped in bacon 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
ollie_the_brave 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth Price
blueroly 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Oleg Makarov
mattshort 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Pete Shaw
Alan100 12/Jun/10 Lead

Low in the grade but i lovely climb. I reckon without the polish on the opening moves this would be VS. Having said that I nearly fell when my foot popped of the shinest of the holds. That'll teach me to stop concentrating! Don't bother trying to use a friend in the pocket tho - it's perfect for a sideways hex..

Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd
Charlie14 10/Jun/10 -
Rob Jarratt 10/Jun/10 2nd
with Mark Ford, Andy Crawley
Hidden 10/Jun/10 2nd
andy_e 05/Jun/10 TR RP
leon 02/Jun/10 Lead
with Steven Davidson
chris_whitehead1898 ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead RP
alimckay 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with goodstuff
Goodstuff 28/May/10 Lead β
Andy Fielding 23/May/10 Lead
with Pete Milton
Roch 22/May/10 TR
with MRT
MTS 19/May/10 Lead β

had just soloed Scoop Direct, so knew how to the balancy first section worked

with Paul, Matt, Rach
tim123487 16/May/10 Lead
jamesgodwin64 16/May/10 Lead O/S
R8JimBob88 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb although the begining is a little polished up to the scoop and then minimal gear to the top. Bare feet next time!

with James
Ky 12/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route, sweetly precarious enough in the right places. Quality moves!!

with Crucko
Hidden 12/May/10 TR O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Nick1812P 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
joe.91 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Olli-C 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Youd, Jon Taylor
wilkie14c 27/Apr/10 2nd
with Dave Clarke
RamblingRyan 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Col
Jonathan Hall 23/Apr/10 Lead
with Jane Rigby
JRigby 23/Apr/10 2nd
Chi Cheng 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
alitamlit 18/Apr/10 2nd β
with chi
BennoC 13/Apr/10 2nd
with Simon
Barry D 13/Apr/10 2nd
with Martin K
Col Allott 10/Apr/10 Solo
with Alexandra Sturrock
peter myers ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Mat Dalby
sasmojo 23/Mar/10 2nd
with Wayne G
Olli-C 11/Mar/10 TR
with Moritz
Moritz L 11/Mar/10 TR
JoshJLewis 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
andy_e 03/Mar/10 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 13/Feb/10 Solo O/S
with Tom Green
Hidden 06/Feb/10 2nd
Liam Ingram 06/Feb/10 2nd O/S
rcammack 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Peakpdr 10/Dec/09 Lead rpt
with nick
juza 25/Oct/09 Lead
with keven cheadle
climbing_wiggy 17/Oct/09 2nd β
with Paul
Peakpdr 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
JLS 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jacqui
nathanmanc 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jen
Hidden 26/Sep/09 TR O/S
sgl0jd 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd dog
richardhopton 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Kingsjester
Kingsjester 26/Sep/09 2nd β

Difficult start and top out.

Tom Eagle 19/Sep/09 -
with Mario Yeomans
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
minaturechris 13/Sep/09 Lead RP

The start is indeed tricky for the short. Took me a few attempts to reach the good hold and then gain the scoop.

with Simon, Stacey
B_M 13/Sep/09 Lead β
with Andrew Downing
A Downing 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Ben Monkton
staceyjg 13/Sep/09 2nd RP

Chris led

with mark H, Chris Gardner
ripper 12/Sep/09 Lead

very tricky start, came very close to popping off the last of the "glassy slopers", which could have been nasty... once established on the scoop the padding was pleasant with just enough exposure to concentrate the mind!

with Marc B
HimTiggins 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with John
mikecollins 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with ellen tickle
dpmUK 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
M_W_Court 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Solo rpt
cj1970 13/Aug/09 2nd O/S
chrisallan 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
chrisclimber_1986 06/Aug/09 Lead
with William Kelsall
robin heath 03/Aug/09 Solo O/S
with Tom Wild
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
troym 02/Aug/09 TR RP
with Clare Midwood
MontyH 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mandy hobbs
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
thrutch 18/Jul/09 Solo
max_chan 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Lou
Col Allott 01/Jul/09 Solo rpt
DeanD ?/Jul/09 Lead
davross1986 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

topping out is tricky a its always loose shale. only an hvs because theres no gear until halfway.

davidwright 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead
Jim Slater 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Great climb

Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead
jscoles 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jon Mason
thomasadixon 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Barefoot!

with andy
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob/Tom
robman 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Barefoot!

with Tim
tompilgrem 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
axeman 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

mint!!!

with schofield
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
ollie_the_brave 04/Jun/09 TR rpt
with Gareth Price
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead
embob 30/May/09 2nd

Great lead by Al! Was bloody roasting and friction was rubbish. Had to haul up gear twice when nothing would go in the huge pocket. Lovely moves.

with Alex
cooper leek 30/May/09 2nd rpt
with donk
donkster 30/May/09 Lead rpt
with ben
Jez ?/May/09 Lead O/S

repeated barefoot

Dan Lane 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Very nice, start is the crux, padding acoss the slab, easy but runout and feels scary. Size 6 hex (light blue) in the pocket.

Jules Lane 29/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Really nice climb - 2 or 3 lovely moves. Easy side of 5a

with Dan
Graeme Hammond 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with anthony
Duncan Skelton 26/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Jamie Marrison
nic42 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Em
Em66 22/Apr/09 2nd
with MUMC
djdf 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First HVS! Felt a bit soft though. The VS route that bypasses the start moves has gear, but it's useless once you get into the scoop. The 'bouldery' 5a moves to get into the scoop felt like a piece of piss anyway. Padding across the scoop - very nervous until I could reach the pocket and stick in #6 hex (thanks for the beta that man). Traverse across and out with heart still in mouth. Fantastic. Pleased with myself.

with Pete
Steve Waters, Mynydd 19/Apr/09 2nd
RCrockford 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Chris F
mtempest 19/Apr/09 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Glyn Davidson 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Put a cam in the top pocket. As it rained heavily I abseiled down to remove my gear. Looking at the cam in the pocket, I don't think it would have held.

MattT88 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
andeeeee 29/Mar/09 2nd
with Steve Taylor
Hidden 29/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 29/Mar/09 TR RP
deejmonkey 15/Mar/09 Lead
with Tom
tomparrott 15/Mar/09 2nd
with DJ
Heinrich 01/Mar/09 TR O/S
with Steve
sdht ?/Mar/09 -
jamie-annetts ??/2009 Lead O/S
with guy melbourne
Mark Eddy ??/2009 2nd

Padding across the scoop was a delight

with Colin
summo ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
aesherwin ??/2009 TR dog

Scared me even on a top rope.

with Chris Eccles, Jo Fromant
Shad ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hannah Moulton ?/Dec/08 2nd
with Rob Middleton
Pilch 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S

a pleasing ascent, a brass wire in the scoop boosted confidence

with Lloyd and Graham
Heinrich 10/Oct/08 TR O/S

Thrutchy but well worth it

with Steve
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead dnf
gradbachmark 26/Sep/08 2nd
with peakphil
rockman 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
ed edwards 26/Sep/08 Lead
with rockman
Mr Wild 21/Sep/08 2nd
SimonBrown 21/Sep/08 Lead

Led it barefoot though took a little fall which sandpapered my toes a bit! Finished it though - nice route

Andy Hardy 19/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Barry D 19/Sep/08 2nd
with Andy H
Bob 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with M. Bullough
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
mark s 24/Aug/08 Solo O/S
JWB 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with My brother Robin
John Marsland 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Goi
Hidden 08/Aug/08 Lead
tomB 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 01/Aug/08 2nd β
Dux 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
thefuturesmiles ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nienke 27/Jul/08 2nd
with Adam Young
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Little AndyH 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Antony Harrison
Luke Brooks 25/Jun/08 Solo O/S

With 30mph winds - quite scary!

Hidden 15/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead
gazbonutter 13/Jun/08 2nd

Pete got the good bit of gear in and then another bit that promptly fell out as he moved past it. Don't think I will be leading this for some time!!

AsleepOnBelay 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Pleasant moves, although the top was a bit rude for the lead I was following!

with Ross
cpoad 08/Jun/08 TR O/S
with Ross M
cpoad 08/Jun/08 Lead β

Lead after top-roping it. Bold, with iffy gear on the lower left

with Clare F
harryt 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Craig
skittles 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S

The crux was very polished but brilliant route overall.

quiffhanger ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

No cam to fit crucial pocket!

Andy Clarke 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ralph
Joez 26/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ben
benjih 26/May/08 2nd
with Joe H
CrispsSmiths 25/May/08 Lead
with Ant Man
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd
donkster 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with mudders
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
sadams 03/May/08 Lead
with Catherine Adams
Stoff ?/May/08 TR
Harry Thorpe 27/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Kieran
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/08 Lead
adam carless 19/Apr/08 2nd rpt
b.hayley ?/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Alfredo ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Ben H
Trigoc ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 14/Feb/08 2nd
HuwT 03/Feb/08 2nd

Deceptive - the bottom moves on polished ledges are easier than they look but the top moves are harder than they look

with Mark Duggan
Mark D 03/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
Hidden 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
pog100 07/Oct/07 2nd dog
Reaver2k 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

First HVS! After quickly bouldering the starting moves to make sure I could actually pull on the glassy slopers I commited to my first HVS lead! Left me being much bolder than I usually feel comfortable being! Some decent gear before the traverse, easy moves across the scoop if a little wobbly because getting pushed back by no handholds! Reached the end, put hand in pocket, and proceeded to try and pop in every piece of gear I could think of, ended up getting a ill fitting clog cam stuck in there, realised it had no camstops, put the same size of DMM in there (again ill fitting) and trying to block it in there by also shoving a red hex in there, probably would have held with a touch of luck! Can see the placement exploding oneday when someone takes a lob onto it! Tricky moves from here, moving up with left hand onto ledge and edging right hand into corner (nice finger hold in the crack) putting another cam in and going for the top! Felt very wobbly on the top mantle moves! Was buzzing! Dad fell as a second when moving up past the pocket and onto the ledge. Felt like I might be finally getting somewhere with this whole leading thing!

JdotP 25/Sep/07 2nd β

Accessed from Keep Arete. I had tried it several times during 2007, but failed. Eventually Stu led it instead...

with Stuart Bury
Adam Moroz 23/Sep/07 Lead β

well i lead this after seconding, scoop direct, so can't claim the onsight. I also fell off the very first move when starting but then got striaght back on and flashed it.So i put clean with beta as it was a flash after a fall with previous knowledge of moves. All these styles of ascent get very confusing!

with john (Krank)
OffshoreAndy 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Jade
TGreen 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with tom b
PenJD 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Heather and Mole
spacey 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jo macey
Matthallinan ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Nicky Winn
jossa ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Moley
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S

I found the crux to be getting stood up on the good ledge below the scoop itself after the initial hard moves. It is easy for the feet to slip on the polished holds here (Ian has seen 2 people in the last 12 months break their legs slipping on this move). A yellow Camalot in the "pond" hole was my only gear. Superb finishing moves - spectacluar, positive and well balanced. Ann spotted a wire / small friend placement near the top, but it is all over by then and better just to confidently push on through to what is a pretty positive finish. Another climb from my Wishlist ticked!

with Ann Sanderson
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
williap 06/Jun/07 TR
Xav 30/May/07 Solo O/S
Stig 25/May/07 Lead rpt
with Pete
alj 20/May/07 Lead β
with leon skeldon
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
roscoe6 15/May/07 Lead
wirralclimber1984 15/May/07 2nd
rwm7131 15/May/07 Lead
tom_1985 10/May/07 Lead
with Jules
climber130887 09/May/07 Lead O/S
with pete
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ian Bruce
Mark Collins 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Cook
gregarding 23/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Donna Nichamin
joe larner 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 05/Apr/07 Lead RP

Top roped clean first and then got it on lead

Rosie Henstock 05/Apr/07 2nd
Mike W 03/Apr/07 Solo O/S
adam carless 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jon_nz
Jules_Robbo ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Tom
MontyH 17/Mar/07 TR O/S

Cold,windy and damp hence TR

with Adam Davidson
Col Allott 25/Jan/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Steve Banham ??/2007 Lead
with Layla
Mr Wild 10/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Pete
Macca_7 01/Nov/06 Lead

Good Route the scoop was bigger than expected!

Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
Rampikino 23/Sep/06 Lead
with MMC Various
Stig 19/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 16/Sep/06 TR
endless winter 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Winder
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd
MeMeMe 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
smudge 24/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ian P
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
smithy 28/Jun/06 Lead β

It went fine until I stuck my hand in the pond pocket...stuck a 5 hex in, went in fine, then pinged out and went sailing to the ground...remember a 6 hex...Getting to the left hand finish was a tad tricky, with me being very over balanced! Although I think I got there the hard way. Sorry, the 'good' way!

with Link and Miserable_bird
masa-alpin 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Adam W
Hidden 17/Jun/06 2nd
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd β
Hidden 31/May/06 Solo O/S
Chris Davids 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Reuben
Jon Read 06/May/06 Lead rpt
with Debs
Shad ?/May/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Peakphil ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tontopink 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Awsome climb looks eaiser than it is

studly84 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with thomas poulton
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd
tatz45 10/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Hannah Cappleman
orb 07/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Mojo
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
jimbobimbo ??/2006 Lead β
with Gro
kingholmesy ??/2006 2nd O/S
with SteveOc
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
dan_o_b ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead β
Hidden 24/Oct/05 TR
catt 15/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Toby
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
AJ007 24/Sep/05 Lead
with Brian
Laramadness 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
tom bre 02/Aug/05 Lead O/S

1st HVS lead. Only took cams up route after looking at pic in Rockfax book (mistake) Camelot 3 fully open in pocket hole (umbrella position) scared and relieved to top out dont forget a large Hex or Large nut for this one. 5a boulder start ok just go for it!

with john Rowlands
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 23/Jul/05 2nd RP
with Jon
Jonny M 23/Jul/05 Lead β
ChrisBrooke 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Ritchie
The Mountain Goat 25/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Mistakenly did the VS start.

with Nick Payne
Chris the Tall 21/Jun/05 Lead
with Alice Chaplin
Phil West 18/Jun/05 Lead dnf
with Shaun Walby
BruceW ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 30/May/05 Lead rpt
Steve Pardoe 11/May/05 2nd

Sketchy start, exciting traverse, delightful finish

Si dH 08/May/05 Lead O/S
with Andrei
edmitchell ?/May/05 2nd
with kai ren
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
Rampikino 13/Apr/05 Lead

From the arete start - VS 4c

with Liz Hay
ArnaudG ??/2005 -
JJL ??/2005 -
with Mike
Neil Henson ??/2005 2nd

I thought the top out on this was hard.

with Mark Collins
FrankW 16/Oct/04 2nd rpt
with Chris R
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
jimshrimp 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S

Classic Route in every sense. Well worth seeking out.

Hidden 18/Jul/04 Lead
cem 04/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Graham's Stags
jamie ward 25/Jun/04 Lead dnf
with Jim !!
Jon Read ?/Jun/04 Solo
Hidden 23/May/04 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 23/May/04 Lead rpt
with Charles Kinniburgh, Les Goram
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/May/04 Solo O/S
chrishedgehog 25/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Chalky Cat ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Dom
Ben1983 ??/2004 Lead O/S
Peakology ??/2004 Lead O/S

Accompanied by trampolining nuns

with cat
Stig 15/Oct/03 Lead rpt

A very memorable lead.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Okecroak 19/Sep/03 2nd
with J Teale
SteveM 14/Sep/03 Lead
with Tobs
Whealiebob 17/Aug/03 2nd
with Chris
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/03 Lead
Stig ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Mark Riley ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ?/Feb/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/02 TR O/S
Budge 19/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Alastair Hudson 12/May/02 Lead
with Clare Young
dan_o_b ??/2002 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
kato'sdad 29/Sep/01 Lead
RobSimmo 29/Sep/01 2nd
adamwesthead 11/Aug/01 2nd rpt
with Taylor
Gman ?/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with Carl
John Eley ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/01 Lead
with Laura
adamwesthead 28/May/01 Lead rpt
with Hoult
adamwesthead 15/Aug/00 Lead rpt
with Taylor
adamwesthead 06/Jun/00 TR O/S
with Taylor
phardman 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Boy ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
FrankW 18/Jul/99 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 11/Jun/99 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/98 Lead O/S
nige ?/Jun/98 Lead
with john buckley
JonBray ??/1998 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1998 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jul/97 Lead

Led this clean then went back a couple of years later and fell off. I put it down to being a hot sticky evening.

with Richard Bower
nigehughes ?/May/97 Lead
with Terry Moore
ed woods ??/1996 2nd
with Rob & Winnick
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Martin Bennett 12/Sep/95 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 21/May/95 Solo O/S
Gordon Stainforth 16/Aug/94 2nd dnf
with Steve Dean
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/93 Lead
Andy Say 08/Sep/91 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/Sep/91 Lead
with Chris S
Rob Davies 11/May/91 Lead rpt
with John Pethica
Iain Thow 08/May/91 TR
with Paul Whatley
Hidden 18/Jul/90 Lead
Roget 28/Jul/89 Solo O/S
with jim
Hidden 01/May/85 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/80 Solo
babymoac 03/Aug/80 Solo
Rob Davies 15/Jun/80 Lead
with Tony Welsh
uphillnow ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 13/May/79 Lead
with Neil Williams
The Reaper 15/Sep/77 Lead O/S
rogerskews ??/1976 Solo
Hidden 29/Nov/75 Solo O/S
mikej 27/Aug/74 Lead
with E
Hidden 17/Jul/65 Solo
Hidden 01/Apr/65 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/64 TR
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 171
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 190
Votes cast 166
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set