Rockfax Description
The widening corner-crack, split by good ledges, gives a challenging pitch that would not feel out of place on a Grit Edge. Start on the left-hand side of the ledge beneath the widening crack.
Follow the crack to the second ledge and prepare for battle with the tougher upper section that requires some large gear to protect it adequately. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

dready 17/Nov/17 TR

awesome route, one for jamming lovers i like how the chunk that fell out in 2014 has given the route an extra crux

whiteexplorer 17/Nov/17 TR
Tom Hill 19/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Cbulman 19/Sep/17 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Anna Maykova 19/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Ran out of big gear and the will to live about 3 metres from the top... Rock is crumbly, moves are desperate. I think I'll give this one a miss.

with Ian
Rosie Henstock 10/Jul/17 Lead dog

Sea friends jumping on my face!

Mark D 10/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Lenny 20/May/17 Lead O/S
with Lada Lukinić
Alison Cairns 19/May/17 2nd rpt

First part of crack subject to rockfall now a sharp-edged layback albeit still a bit crumbly.

with Maria
Dizz 19/May/17 2nd rpt
with Pradreg
Mark Kemball 18/May/17 2nd
with Joni Kuusenmaki
Hidden 18/May/17 2nd
Dave Almond 16/May/17 Lead O/S

Bmc International meet. Nasty

masa-alpin 14/May/17 2nd β

Slightly damp. Felt a bit hard for the grade. Good jamming route! During the BMC International Meet 2017.

with Moos
beni 25/Mar/17 2nd
with JakeB.
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very cool, lots of insects ruined the fun a bit, I've climbed much easier HVS 5a's

with Beth
dbrooks 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Loadsa cams!

with John, Demitri
John Tanner 16/Jul/16 2nd O/S
JRJones 13/Jun/16 Lead O/S

As below, very large block missing in lower section. Almost certainly harder than before, but probably still HVS. Lower section is now more of a layback off a sloped ledge rather than sustained jamming

kyaizawa 13/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route that is now missing a huge block in the middle section compared to the guidebook topo to leave a slightly crumbly and overhanging jamming section. Feels pretty stiff for HVS 5a and much harder than Dialectic as others have said!!

Hidden 13/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/16 2nd
arandall 12/Jun/16 TR rpt
with Nick
thetradlad 27/May/16 Lead O/S

Shimmying up cam no. 3

with Mark Chevassut, Annie Rose
Brian H 22/May/16 Lead O/S

It was a battle! I was glad I had plenty of big cams.

ian d f 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
pearson9596 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 25/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Crack gets wider. A good struggle to the top.

with Luke P
manbat 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Felt a lot harder than Dialectic. Sustained and strenuous. Was hoping for it to ease near the top - it didn't!

with Luke Randall
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Spearos 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Riggo
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
soph 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Michaela Tracy
daxtari 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Grant Fulton 21/May/15 Lead


with Darren
guy757 18/Apr/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
gowla 29/Apr/14 2nd

Large chunk has recently fallen down but it's still HVS and good

with Andy March
leerybunny 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ana
Monkey_Alan 24/Aug/13 Lead dog

Got up to the top section - then rapidly ran out of jamming ability. Pulled on anything available to get up.

Guy Lowndes 24/Aug/13 2nd
with alan Blanchflower
whiteexplorer 28/Jun/13 2nd dog

wet crack,crumbly rock,misted up glasses....what could possibly go wrong?....blood and skin donated to the granit gods!!!

with Dilwat, SurferStan
Dilwat 28/Jun/13 Lead dnf

No where near getting this one. Maybe next time?

SurferStan 28/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Lead by Ian

Wil Treasure 15/May/13 2nd
with Viktor
nickdonohue 03/May/13 2nd
with Chris Stanyon
SurferStan 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Donahue
andy_pemberton 16/Feb/13 Lead
with Steve Gibson
hotfeet 16/Sep/12 Lead
Blue68 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A real tussle, but enjoyed it

stuart34 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Sarah Welsh 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Steve Price
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead
El3ctroFuzz 16/Apr/12 Lead
Elaine Budden 16/Apr/12 2nd β
with Tristan Sherlock, tom bunn
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 2nd
with Rick Graham
arandall 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Frances Bensley, Amber Thornton
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/11 Lead


with Gillian
Dizz 21/Jun/11 Lead

Wet at top - no friction, rested :-(

with Richard S
Spearos 15/May/11 2nd O/S
Master Chief 15/May/11 Lead dog

Foot slipped 4 foot from the top so took a fall. Started from the ledge and got it clean on second attempt!!

Chris Ebbutt 05/Mar/11 Lead
mark schramm 05/Mar/11 2nd
andybenham 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Hard VERY severe.

with Ben
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
riddle 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Superb lay back moves.

chris j 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alan
Dan_Carroll 11/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Rebecca Holland
Bob Peters ??/2008 Lead O/S

With Astrid Saxby during the family meet. Found it much harder than Dialectic.

Rich Kirby 03/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Ash
cornishben 25/May/07 2nd O/S
with barnaby carver
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
topsyturvy ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

date approx. Tuff but enjoyed it.

with Rob Sykes
Mark Kemball 29/Feb/04 Lead
with Nic Dill
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 27/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2001 -
stuart100 18/May/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Bullybones ??/2000 2nd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Roget 19/Aug/99 2nd O/S
with jim
nickdonohue 28/Mar/99 Lead
with Andy March
chrisrogers ?/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with TWMC
Charles Arthur 01/Apr/97 Lead O/S


with Debbie Matthews
lost.arrow 12/Jun/96 Lead
with Iain Kerr
lost.arrow 12/Jun/96 Lead
colin milton 09/Jun/96 Lead
with eric milton
Simon cook ?/May/96 Lead
Budge ?/Aug/95 Lead dog
with Adrian Fox
Hidden 16/Apr/95 2nd
Andy Say 31/May/94 Lead O/S
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
Nigel Coe ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set