Rockfax Description
The widening corner-crack, split by good ledges, gives a challenging pitch that would not feel out of place on a Grit Edge. Start on the left-hand side of the ledge beneath the widening crack.
Follow the crack to the second ledge and prepare for battle with the tougher upper section that requires some large gear to protect it adequately. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, HVS Cornwall, Target Routes 2019/2020, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
robgixer 13 Sep Lead O/S
CharleyAnn 13 Sep 2nd
Graeme Hammond 7 Sep Lead O/S
with Becky E
with Becky E
gjd 4 Sep Lead O/S Top crack was damp so felt desperate.
with Sam Burns
Top crack was damp so felt desperate.
with Sam Burns
masa-alpin 26 Aug 2nd rpt
with perrys
with perrys
perrys 26 Aug Lead O/S
Flavio 25 Jul 2nd
JendeHoxar 25 Jul Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
aiyer 20 Jul 2nd Almost considered sacrificing myself into the Atlantic to avoid climbing this...
Almost considered sacrificing myself into the Atlantic to avoid climbing this...
Kev Little 20 Jul Lead O/S
with aiyer
with aiyer
jsmcfarland 1 Jul Lead O/S Thought a little hard for HVS, but then again I don't do much crack climbing and gear is great. Didn't help I was wearing sport climbing shoes!
Thought a little hard for HVS, but then again I don't do much crack climbing and gear is great. Didn't help I was wearing sport climbing shoes!
Lady Vee 1 Jul 2nd O/S
Lewis_F 19 Jun Lead O/S A solid hand jamming crack and very appealing line. Wet though, needed another day/two of sun to dry. Up to the mid height ledge is probably mid hvs 5a. The top crack requires staying power. Bridging is helpful, gear involved plenty of mid-large cams with two/three smaller (dragon 2-0) cams. I would give this E1 for sure, almost every move is 5a. A real fight. 2 stars, maybe 3 if dry
A solid hand jamming crack and very appealing line. Wet though, needed another day/two of sun to dry. Up to the mid height ledge is probably mid hvs 5a. The top crack requires staying power. Bridging is helpful, gear involved plenty of mid-large cams with two/three smaller (dragon 2-0) cams. I would give this E1 for sure, almost every move is 5a. A real fight. 2 stars, maybe 3 if dry
Jim blackford 19 Jun 2nd O/S
climbdevon 25 May -
Jevo 17 May Lead dog
with Donesy
with Donesy
Donesy 17 May 2nd O/S the final crack is a proper workout even on the second. Got it clean though. Unlike Gevo
with Jevo
the final crack is a proper workout even on the second. Got it clean though. Unlike Gevo
with Jevo
KernowCrag 5 May 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 May TR
Sarahcrowsley 5 May 2nd
Hidden 5 May TR
Hidden 5 May Lead
Hidden 5 May TR O/S
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Sam Buckee 21 Oct, 2018 TR O/S
with Vinnyb
with Vinnyb
Vinnyb 21 Oct, 2018 TR O/S
with Daniel Schubert, Sam Buckee
with Daniel Schubert, Sam Buckee
Oscar Popels 6 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Absolute banger of a route. Fantastic toe and fist jams all the way to the top. This feature is just made to be climbed.
with Mike amc
Absolute banger of a route. Fantastic toe and fist jams all the way to the top. This feature is just made to be climbed.
with Mike amc
Frank the Husky 30 Aug, 2018 -
with SJD
with SJD
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
surferdan 24 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Such a good route, that you can pretty much ignore how crunchy it is. What a beautiful jamming crack!
with manbat
Such a good route, that you can pretty much ignore how crunchy it is. What a beautiful jamming crack!
with manbat
hotfeet 22 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with chancer
with chancer
chancer 22 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with hotfeet
with hotfeet
seb b 3 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 2 May, 2018 2nd O/S
janegallwey 22 Feb, 2018 Lead dnf Exact same experience as whoever wrote this below: "Ran out of big gear and the will to live about 3 metres from the top... "
with JakeB.
Exact same experience as whoever wrote this below: "Ran out of big gear and the will to live about 3 metres from the top... "
with JakeB.
Heightseeker 17 Nov, 2017 TR awesome route, one for jamming lovers i like how the chunk that fell out in 2014 has given the route an extra crux
awesome route, one for jamming lovers i like how the chunk that fell out in 2014 has given the route an extra crux
whiteexplorer 17 Nov, 2017 TR
Tom Hill 19 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
with Cbulman
with Cbulman
Cbulman 19 Sep, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Anna Maykova 19 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Ran out of big gear and the will to live about 3 metres from the top... Rock is crumbly, moves are desperate. I think I'll give this one a miss.
with Ian MK
Ran out of big gear and the will to live about 3 metres from the top... Rock is crumbly, moves are desperate. I think I'll give this one a miss.
with Ian MK
Rosie Henstock 10 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Sea friends jumping on my face!
with Mark D
Sea friends jumping on my face!
with Mark D
Mark D 10 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Lenny 20 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Lada Lukinić
with Lada Lukinić
Alison Cairns 19 May, 2017 2nd rpt First part of crack subject to rockfall now a sharp-edged layback albeit still a bit crumbly.
with Maria
First part of crack subject to rockfall now a sharp-edged layback albeit still a bit crumbly.
with Maria
Dizz 19 May, 2017 2nd rpt
with Pradreg
with Pradreg
Mark Kemball 18 May, 2017 2nd
with Joni Kuusenmaki
with Joni Kuusenmaki
scott titt 18 May, 2017 2nd
Dave Almond 16 May, 2017 Lead O/S Bmc International meet. Nasty
Bmc International meet. Nasty
masa-alpin 14 May, 2017 2nd β Slightly damp. Felt a bit hard for the grade. Good jamming route! During the BMC International Meet 2017.
with Moos
Slightly damp. Felt a bit hard for the grade. Good jamming route! During the BMC International Meet 2017.
with Moos
beni 25 Mar, 2017 2nd
with JakeB.
with JakeB.
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Very cool, lots of insects ruined the fun a bit, I've climbed much easier HVS 5a's
with BCT
Very cool, lots of insects ruined the fun a bit, I've climbed much easier HVS 5a's
with BCT
dbrooks 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Loadsa cams!
with John Tanner, Demitri
Loadsa cams!
with John Tanner, Demitri
John Tanner 16 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
JRJones 13 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S As below, very large block missing in lower section. Almost certainly harder than before, but probably still HVS. Lower section is now more of a layback off a sloped ledge rather than sustained jamming
As below, very large block missing in lower section. Almost certainly harder than before, but probably still HVS. Lower section is now more of a layback off a sloped ledge rather than sustained jamming
kyaizawa 13 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Great route that is now missing a huge block in the middle section compared to the guidebook topo to leave a slightly crumbly and overhanging jamming section. Feels pretty stiff for HVS 5a and much harder than Dialectic as others have said!!
Great route that is now missing a huge block in the middle section compared to the guidebook topo to leave a slightly crumbly and overhanging jamming section. Feels pretty stiff for HVS 5a and much harder than Dialectic as others have said!!
Hidden 13 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 13 Jun, 2016 2nd
arandall 12 Jun, 2016 TR rpt
with Nick
with Nick
thetradlad 27 May, 2016 Lead O/S Shimmying up cam no. 3
with Mark Chevassut, Annie Rose
Shimmying up cam no. 3
with Mark Chevassut, Annie Rose
Brian H 22 May, 2016 Lead O/S It was a battle! I was glad I had plenty of big cams.
It was a battle! I was glad I had plenty of big cams.
ian d f 30 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
pearson9596 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Lumbering Oaf 25 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S Crack gets wider. A good struggle to the top.
with Luke P
Crack gets wider. A good struggle to the top.
with Luke P
Chimnastics 10 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Felt a lot harder than Dialectic. Sustained and strenuous. Was hoping for it to ease near the top - it didn't!
with Luke Randall
Felt a lot harder than Dialectic. Sustained and strenuous. Was hoping for it to ease near the top - it didn't!
with Luke Randall
Hidden 4 Sep, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 2 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Spearos 5 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
with Riggo
with Riggo
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 Lead
soph 28 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Michaela Tracy
with Michaela Tracy
daxtari 16 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Grant Fulton 21 May, 2015 Lead Brutish!
with Darren
Brutish!
with Darren
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
gowla 29 Apr, 2014 2nd Large chunk has recently fallen down but it's still HVS and good
with Andy March
Large chunk has recently fallen down but it's still HVS and good
with Andy March
leerybunny 29 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ana
with Ana
Monkey_Alan 24 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Got up to the top section - then rapidly ran out of jamming ability. Pulled on anything available to get up.
Got up to the top section - then rapidly ran out of jamming ability. Pulled on anything available to get up.
Guy Lowndes 24 Aug, 2013 2nd
with alan Blanchflower
with alan Blanchflower
whiteexplorer 28 Jun, 2013 2nd dog wet crack,crumbly rock,misted up glasses....what could possibly go wrong?....blood and skin donated to the granit gods!!!
with Dilwat, SurferStan
wet crack,crumbly rock,misted up glasses....what could possibly go wrong?....blood and skin donated to the granit gods!!!
with Dilwat, SurferStan
Dilwat 28 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf No where near getting this one. Maybe next time?
No where near getting this one. Maybe next time?
SurferStan 28 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt Lead by Ian
Lead by Ian
Wil Treasure 15 May, 2013 2nd
with Viktor
with Viktor
nickdonohue 3 May, 2013 2nd
with Chris Stanyon
with Chris Stanyon
SurferStan 3 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Nick Donahue
with Nick Donahue
andy_pemberton 16 Feb, 2013 Lead
with Steve Gibson
with Steve Gibson
hotfeet 16 Sep, 2012 Lead
with Blue68
with Blue68
Blue68 16 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S A real tussle, but enjoyed it
with hotfeet
A real tussle, but enjoyed it
with hotfeet
andy bisson 9 Sep, 2012 Lead
stuart34 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Sarah Welsh 9 Sep, 2012 2nd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2012 Lead
with Steve Price
with Steve Price
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 Lead
bunn.aroundthebloc 16 Apr, 2012 Lead
Elaine Bunn 16 Apr, 2012 2nd β
with Tristan Sherlock, bunn.aroundthebloc
with Tristan Sherlock, bunn.aroundthebloc
Pete Graham ?Apr, 2012 2nd
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
arandall 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Frances Bensley, Amber Thornton
with Frances Bensley, Amber Thornton
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?Sep, 2011 Lead Excellent.
with Gillian
Excellent.
with Gillian
Dizz 21 Jun, 2011 Lead Wet at top - no friction, rested :-(
with Richard S
Wet at top - no friction, rested :-(
with Richard S
Spearos 15 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Master Chief 15 May, 2011 Lead dog Foot slipped 4 foot from the top so took a fall. Started from the ledge and got it clean on second attempt!!
with Spearos
Foot slipped 4 foot from the top so took a fall. Started from the ledge and got it clean on second attempt!!
with Spearos
Chris Ebbutt 5 Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 2nd
andybenham 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Hard VERY severe.
with Ben
Hard VERY severe.
with Ben
Hidden 28 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2009 2nd O/S
riddle 12 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S Superb lay back moves.
Superb lay back moves.
chris j 24 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Alan
with Alan
Dan_Carroll 11 Apr, 2008 Lead dog
with Rebecca Holland
with Rebecca Holland
Bob Peters ??, 2008 Lead O/S With Astrid Saxby during the family meet. Found it much harder than Dialectic.
With Astrid Saxby during the family meet. Found it much harder than Dialectic.
Rich Kirby 3 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
with Tyler
with Tyler
Dave Cundy ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jason Black
with Jason Black
cornishben 25 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with barnaby carver
with barnaby carver
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
topsyturvy ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S date approx. Tuff but enjoyed it.
with Rob S
date approx. Tuff but enjoyed it.
with Rob S
Mark Kemball 29 Feb, 2004 Lead
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
eddy-on-the-rocks ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 27 Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??, 2001 -
stuart100 18 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
with Claire Graham
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 2nd
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Roget 19 Aug, 1999 2nd O/S
with jim
with jim
nickdonohue 28 Mar, 1999 Lead
with Andy March
with Andy March
chrisrogers ?Aug, 1997 2nd O/S
with TWMC
with TWMC
Charles Arthur 1 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S Dull.
with Debbie Matthews
Dull.
with Debbie Matthews
lost.arrow 12 Jun, 1996 Lead
with Iain Kerr
with Iain Kerr
lost.arrow 12 Jun, 1996 Lead
colin milton 9 Jun, 1996 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
Simon cook ?May, 1996 Lead
Budge ?Aug, 1995 Lead dog
with Adrian Fox
with Adrian Fox
Hidden 16 Apr, 1995 2nd
Andy Say 31 May, 1994 Lead O/S
jcw ??, 1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
with Martin Harris
Nigel Coe ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
RockPhoenix 10 Jun, 1988 2nd
with Bruv Simon
with Bruv Simon
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set