Rockfax Description
8m. The awkward and oft-green groove is squirmed to a rounded exit. The route is not popular though, if you happen to find it dry, then jump aboard. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1958

Ticklists: Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge.

James Oakes 24/Sep Lead rpt
jimmysdead 08/Jul Lead O/S

Great climb. Very sharp rock. Tactics were loading all the gear on the left of my harness

with Mike
James S 27/May Lead O/S

Brilliant fun!

with melty
atthedropofahat 29/Apr Lead rpt
derekwwl 23/Apr Lead O/S
with simon crossley
atthedropofahat 23/Apr Lead O/S
crossleysm 23/Apr 2nd rpt
with Derek Woo
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd
robgixer 08/Apr 2nd
crossleysm 08/Apr 2nd
with Aiden Morris
Mike W 05/Apr Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Melonfly ?/Apr Lead dog

Seconded clean, must be better with head.

with James
rumblesan 25/Sep/16 Lead dnf

First fall on gear. Don't try to bump your grade to quickly...

with Charlie
Charlie1653 25/Sep/16 2nd
with Guy
D.Russell 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Enjoyable repeat the same move until the top out

with JakeB.
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
laurence orchard 08/Jun/16 Lead
Andrew Abraham 31/Mar/16 2nd rpt
nickwhimster 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Tyler Whimster, Andrew Abraham
gavster 13/Mar/16 Lead dog
mapperley samurai 13/Mar/16 2nd rpt

Liked it so much last time I pointed Gav at it. Not sure if he liked it so much :)

mapperley samurai 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Stylish climbing. The right crack got slimier with every move. With a name like slippery Jim it would be a disappointment if otherwise.

with Andy Morley
Andy Morley 28/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Barrie Schofield II 14/Feb/16 Sent O/S

Very wet and mossy in the crack. Just the way I likes it ;-)

Rob Kinsey ??/2016 Lead


with Jen the climber, Sofie
jimbob1988 ??/2016 Solo O/S
owain-1978 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
steely 12/Oct/15 2nd O/S
StefanP ?/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Last cam popped out on fall (need to inspect placement better in future). Ricki provided a good catch

Hidden 30/Sep/15 2nd
Andy Clarke 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Green but dry. Felt pretty steady once I abandoned all idea of recreating the Whillans pose in the BMC guide!

Rebecca North 11/Jul/15 2nd

Layback the whole crack

with bpw666
bpw666 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
fredallingham 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Marvellous route- super dry today

Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Will Murphy
magicmartin 08/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't manage the lead, a lot of power is needed for the initial move into the cracks.

magicmartin 08/Jun/15 2nd β

Didn't manage the lead, fell off twice on 2nd then finally got it from the bottom on the third try. I will come back for the lead. A very strenous climb!

FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #1. 6:30am start, bit hard for that time of day without warmup.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 TR
Becky E 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Graeme Hammond 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Excellent little route, do it if it is in condition!

with Becky E
James Oakes 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with noaks
Peakpdr 04/May/15 Lead
Andy Peak 1 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Green slippy and classic

with Andrew Deckon
Kassius 19/Mar/15 Lead dnf
John Higgs 19/Mar/15 Solo O/S
with Caitlin Bell
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Andrew will wilson ??/2015 -
Hidden 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11/Oct/14 Lead dog

Very wet and slippery. Good fun though. Top out was a little sketchy. Took one little fall and couldn't be bothered to lower off for a ground-up go since it was so wet in the crack.

with Mark
Andrew Abraham 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Sam Riley, Ceara
Mark Duncan 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Quite nice. pretty easy for grade.

James rogers86 14/Aug/14 Solo

Nice crack to solo.

Jon_King 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

12 on Staffordshire nose. Was wearing my comfy shoes, which had big holes in them. Made the laybacking on this feel more precarious than it needed to.

with Nick
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

12/31. Really enjoyable, a lovely bit of light relief after the crack of gloom.

dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Chriswallis2 12/Jun/14 Lead β

On Pete's gear.

Will Murphy 12/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Andrew Abraham 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
morganator 26/May/14 2nd
soph 26/May/14 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Inspired by the pic of don whillans in the BMC guide. Didn't manage to find that contorted rest though.

with Brendan
sam corbett ?/May/14 Solo
sam corbett ?/May/14 Solo O/S
Noodles30 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
switch 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

slime in the crack. Still great though, especially the finish

with James
Hidden ??/2014 -
Alistair Corbett 30/Sep/13 Solo O/S


mop449 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Difficult to place gear, but short enough to not become too tiring

Bloke on a Rope 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Climbster 04/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
vinspin 23/Aug/13 -
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 09/Apr/13 2nd
with Andrew Graham
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mikedeleyser 24/Feb/13 TR dog

Did fall once, but managed to climb to the top with persistence on the arms. First climbing expedition outdoors.

Hidden 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianstevens 24/Feb/13 -
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
B-bop 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
with T Max
Rock Zigger 08/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Pulled two friends out on fall. Damaged finger prevented second attempt

northy1983 ??/2011 Lead O/S

very wet and dirty

with seb
HowieB ??/2011 Lead
Andrew Abraham 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S

It sure was slipery for the hands, and rather damp in the cracks but quality rock for the feet to bridge all the way to the top. The Top out was quite exiting on lead, theres not a lot for your hands up there and I wouldn't trust that heather!

monsteratt 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

A slippery crack tricky bridging and a tricky exit. Good value for its length

Rob Davies 11/Jul/10 Lead

This doesn't get any easier.

with Phil Ashton
alexyoung 10/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Well, it looked in reasonable condition but clearly it wasn't. When does get in condition if not mid July?

with Cockney Andy
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Laura-lou 19/Jun/10 Lead
with chris prescott, Chink
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
willoates ?/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Little wet at the top, but good

Hidden 25/Jul/09 Solo
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead β
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 07/May/07 TR O/S
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
mark s ??/2005 -
Gus ??/2005 Lead
nai ??/1995 Lead
Tony Little 13/Oct/91 Solo O/S
with Sam
adi bryant 02/Oct/91 Solo O/S
Andy Say 19/Aug/91 Solo
Roget 02/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ?/Sep/90 2nd

Aptly named - Angus slithered off before succeeding. Given VS 4c!

with Angus McLean
Hidden 16/May/90 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/88 Solo
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set