Rockfax Description
20m. The back of the great rift has a crack/groove in each angle. The long steep groove on the left leads by sustained climbing to an exit through the small gap. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Salt 1969

Ticklists: Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, In Peak Rock.

will_of_fortune 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 19/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Thought it was Raven Rock Gully, so had approach shoes and a rack on. Thought it was a bit hard, so did Aitor for his first ever trad lead.

with Dickon Wells, Aitor Moreno
mattx1123 27/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Sustained but nice variety and position

with Georgina bough, paddy woodburn
tom 27/May/17 -

surprisingly fun. Started in the rain, exited into sunshine

craig.england1 27/May/17 2nd
with tom, Dave F
Alex Hyde 06/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Sam
Chris1234H 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Alex Hyde 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant climb, loved the chimneying towards the top!

with Jacob
Gentleman Joe 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Rob_Morris1996 12/Mar/17 2nd O/S
themattyshep 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Sustained is an understatement. Didn't help that is was raining through the skylight

with Rob M
RangerMcFreindly 05/Mar/17 Lead O/S

It was a mixture of rain sleet and snow all fell. Strong finish but enjoyable!

Hidden ??/2017 2nd
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
krispy_fish2000 01/Nov/16 2nd
with Titus Wilson
Ben Wooler 01/Oct/16 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Charlie Low 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Dbrooks53139 06/Aug/16 2nd

Massive mistake!! Steves intended route was Raven rock gully DIFF

Flavio 27/Jul/16 Solo O/S
laurence orchard 07/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd O/S
stratandrew 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Not to be underestimated.

buxtoncoffeelover 30/Apr/16 Lead

In unseasonal hail & snow storm - probably the driest route available. Didn't make it any more enjoyable tho!! Green, greasy & sustained (as promised), tho I began to enjoy once I had a good nut in place for the crux

Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/16 2nd
Remyveness 24/Oct/15 Lead
Tall Gecko Hands 03/Oct/15 TR
Barrie Schofield II 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Becky 20/Aug/15 2nd RP
Becky 20/Aug/15 Lead dnf
royle883 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Robs_Uren 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Lisa
rd20 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Roy, Neil
adi bryant 30/May/15 2nd β
with ian Wignall, Preet
ian Wignall 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 Lead dog
Danm79 25/Mar/15 TR
ashtond6 08/Nov/14 Lead rpt

In the rain, great fun!

craggybear 14/Sep/14 -
popa2k 14/Sep/14 2nd dog

Really hard work at the first and second crux though this was just out of my own ability level and after several rests. However very satisfying once reaching the top. Took a right straight up and then crossed over to go up on the left VS.

David Stevens 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Christina Holmgrun
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
MikeLell 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Fraser
FraserMcClennan 09/Aug/14 2nd
JP78 27/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
nwakeman 10/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Mark Allwood
cdpuk 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good after a full day of sun to dry out.

with Andrew Gilmartin, Julian Bridle
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
Dogwood ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Did this by Headtorch after Valkyrie, main difficulties were posed by not being able to see feet but nice climbing

Andypeak 23/Jun/14 2nd

this put a big smile on my face

Paul Hy 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy S
Ejminee 22/Jun/14 2nd
LovelyMrTom 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Really quite sustained. Expected the route to merge with the Diff at the top and ease, don't think it does! Some rather exciting bridging to the exit hole

poigol5043 21/Jun/14 Lead
Ed Hayter ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rob, Dave
saffy 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rockpiglet 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rocksarge, stonechaser
StoneChaser 10/Apr/14 TR
with Rocksarge, Rockpiglet
Hidden ??/2014 -
WhipperSnapper 30/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Maxie, Minty
bazilikiukas 30/Dec/13 TR O/S

Maxie described it as anal. I however loved it though it was a bit challenging.

alexpeeeee 30/Dec/13 2nd dog

Terrible, started to get dark, making the top very dark. Heavy use of anti-gravity/assisted dyno.

rd20 19/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Too wet

with Clare
kim.mulji 18/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Partner led up to crux, then I lowered her off. I climbed back up, then led to top.

with Claudina
youwillfindjimbo 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead
Jim Slater 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
AndyT1151 15/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tala A 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Good moves, shame its in such a deep gully as it end up a bit dirty. Would probably get more stars if it wasnt for that.

B4tgirl 05/Jul/13 2nd
with Tony
Blueso 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
David Robinson 22/May/13 Lead
sara n 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
khalidq 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hard on the left leg.

Dan Vaj 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A squirm!

with Khalid
Hellflame 25/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
Charley Carpenter ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Imogen carpenter
shim ?/Jul/12 -

awesome, technical and pumpy at parts, bit damp a must do route!!!

kim.mulji 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Christine Belk
ashtond6 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

never found the thank god hold !

Hidden 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S
williap 20/May/12 Lead
g1m147 18/May/12 Lead
with Mick.
michael burrows 21/Apr/12 Lead dnf

stopped half way up as too wet

saffy 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
saffy 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Will Caesar ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Sam Fishwick, Eddy Barnes
Hidden ??/2012 -
RichardN 26/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jack1996 27/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Did it because it was the only dry bit of rock, until we topped out, bit of a squeeze with the belayer half in as well! Strangely fun?!

with pete
Andrew Abraham 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
nickwhimster 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
cragant 01/Oct/11 2nd
swoollock 01/Oct/11 Lead
HassenBali 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with WR
Jackspratt 12/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Matt250 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
jpmole 11/Jun/11 Lead

nice warm up. fun bridge at the top too!

stephen ashworth 08/Jun/11 Lead
with john frost, floss_81
Hidden 08/Jun/11 2nd
mol 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Jesse
CChafer 29/May/11 Lead O/S
rwm7131 24/May/11 2nd
Ben Hollands 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Quite sustained and varied climbing - good route

with Wendy Anderson
ipblake 15/May/11 TR O/S

Bit greasy, but protected from direct rain

iccy 14/May/11 Lead
Happy Wanderer 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ken T
Matt Robinson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
tgeh 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dan geh
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead
jacktomlinson 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Let's see...sustained climbing...gentle overhanging, jamming and bridging....did I say sustained? Really rewarding climb! Great! Do it!

with Travis
chrisbrown_023 06/Mar/11 Lead RP
flashpanther ?/Mar/11 Lead
Stuart William 27/Feb/11 2nd dog
with Matt Reynolds
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
jshields 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Liam Weaver, Ed James
Rick Ashton 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with andy gibb
Stuart Hurworth 14/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Difficult move to gain crack to the left of massive block, tried various moves with no sucess - retreated only to watch my seconder - (who'd previously climbed it) take a fall trying same move. One for another day!

Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead
Harri777 07/Aug/10 2nd
with jt, Manik
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
manik 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Tricky moves, but a fun climb. Hard VS, but maybe because it was wet and slimy at the time.

Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead dog
Pete Randall 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Charles
Geras 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Duncan
gingerwolf 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Ali H 23/May/10 Lead

nice chimney moves at top

with Glyn
Glyn Davidson 23/May/10 2nd O/S

This is ascended first via thrutchy laybacking, which is followed by thrutchy chimneying before some thrutchy bridging and a final thrutch through the manhole at the top. Great fun; I’d recommend it to any VS leader! =D

with Ali
Double Knee Bar 22/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nathan, Iain
jchenoweth 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ebf 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Quite scary moves for VS, but that was probably something to do with the water running down the rocks! Nice finish once you find the hidden hold.

pastep 15/Aug/09 2nd
with ebf
Bobbyonrock 02/Aug/09 TR rpt
with Sparkles
nathanroberts89 ?/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Solo
ianslade ?/Jul/09 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
chiragshah5001 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 12/Mar/09 Lead
baconphat 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Scary jam leading up to final move complimented with some egyptian style footing!

with Andrew Barker
Rachey86 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Sam C
BeccaSnowden 28/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Ended up escaping into raven rock gully. Too wet!

siah 30/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with gavin nixon
hugh2002 26/Jul/08 2nd rpt

A lot easier the second time round. That hidden hold was still waiting right near the top.

with Si & Gavin
siah 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with gav nixen and hugh munro
hugh2002 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Yucky, mucky and a scramble at the top.

with Melanie Butson
dennett 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with calvin dennett
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd
hapymike 14/Jun/08 Lead
smolders 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Steve P
stevepotter 08/Jun/08 Lead
jcurley 06/Jun/08 2nd
with John Dickie
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
AndyM-LVB 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Great fun! Plenty of bomber gear placements. Two Stars!

steve2006 ?/May/08 Lead O/S

it started raining so choose this dry climb. I was very nervous doing this, I have dropped my 'Cams' at about half way but still climbed it, a really enjoyable finish.

with david moore (age 10)
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dzlhodgson 04/Nov/07 Lead β
with Eddie Hung
Simon Caldwell 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Superb climbing throughout, a great route.

with Carmen
C.J.Horsfield 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with rachel hopkin
CarolineH 25/Aug/07 TR
AJ007 11/Aug/07 Lead
ebunick 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

nice climb, though very dust at the top.

with Joe
Hidden 14/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
richardhopton 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Glad to finish it, tunnel at top is a blasting hole for the belaying the second. Easyish, lots to hold onto, drifted right half way but brought it back.

with Matt Thombs
RichardBilly 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Bishop
flower like ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Williams
Hidden 07/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Mr Wild 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Quite commiting in the chimney near the top, or is my technique just bad?

jchenoweth 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Love and Samian
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/06 2nd dog
givemetea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Tony Yates
Hidden 23/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/06 Lead
tontopink 27/Feb/06 Lead O/S

very tricky on the top slabs

with Iain Woodhouse
studly84 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Tough through hole at top very tight for the bigger boys

with thomas poulton
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 TR
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/04 2nd
John Eley ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 22/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Gloomy but worthwhile.

Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
A Crook 11/Aug/00 Lead O/S

wet but dry in places exit through bin lid was tremendous

with David Shepherd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead dnf
with Gaz Haynes
Bobbyonrock ??/2000 TR O/S
Hidden ??/1995 -
Roget 12/Jun/91 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead
babymoac 31/Jul/83 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
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High HS
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Votes cast 36
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Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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