Rockfax Description
26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the traverse.
Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the higher break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the toppling tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977. FA. Up the Swanee John Yates 1970

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Mike W 02/May Lead O/S
with chris
Alex@home 22/Apr Lead O/S

Gear in the roof of the mincer seemed a better option than the tree. Was everything i hoped it would be

with The Doctor
BRoe 15/Apr Lead O/S

Didn't use tree, loving the pebbles.

with Heather O
MSchobitz 26/Mar Lead dnf

Took the biggest whipper possible. Slinging the tree probably saved me from broken bones.

Jake Young 26/Mar 2nd O/S
with Alex M, Nick
ferdia 26/Mar Lead O/S
Nick1812P 26/Mar Lead O/S

On micki's gear for the first half.

with Jake
phillipwright 26/Nov/16 Lead β


dom_joyce265 01/Nov/16 Lead RP
Martin Cooper 23/Oct/16 Lead

2 whippers. Rope through sling in tree

with Stan
ChrisBrooke 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Two belayers as I slung the tree. Really enjoyed this route. Felt bold and technical, and around my current limit. Foot slipped off the polished little scoop on the crux on first attempt, but I held onto the crimps and stayed on. Gave me (and my belayers) a bit of a scare though. Recomposed myself and did it with a bit of a power scream to latch the slopers and safety. If I had the time and more community spirit I'd go back and scrub the top third of the route, which was minging (like climbing up the inside of a dirty fish tank....)

with John Inkpen, John Wilson
sev 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sammy
Sammy Oakes 02/Oct/16 2nd β
with sev
ig248 13/Aug/16 Lead dnf
with Alexander Law
ig248 13/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Alexander Law
Barrie Schofield II 07/Aug/16 2nd
robertmichaellovell 07/May/16 Lead

I thought using the tree runner was going to be cheating, so it felt quite exciting

with Wanneys
Jim Slater 23/Apr/16 2nd dog

Fluffed the tricky move at end of the traverse. Belayed Graeme with the 'tree runner'.

Graeme Hammond 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Almost climbed Up the Swanee, this seemed easy by comparison.

with Jim
Hannes B 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Tom
The Grist 29/Aug/15 2nd

A great lead by Jim using two belayers.

will9911 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Scary, as tony said msybe harder the tall as the smears are so high. Horizontal crack was sandy and the vertical was green , the jams weren't positive because of the ferns! Felt scary. No side runner, seemed cheating if you did as you're basically on a top route for the crux and it gets the E grade for the nasty swing.

with Tony Madden
anguskille 18/Jun/15 Lead G/U

loved this route. took the swing the first time which was exciting. awesome climbing, hard! desperate balancy slab work and fist jamming to finish. definitely not a gritstone climber! i've talked to Mike since, apparently i did the E4 version, feet in the crack

with Mike Grant
MichaelGallimore 30/May/15 Lead O/S

With a side runner in the tree

with Flavio
FlavioL1989 29/May/15 2nd β
PeteWilson 04/May/15 Lead O/S

most scared ive been for a while, never been so pleased to see a jamming crack!

with josh, Dave
jamesgodwin64 22/Mar/15 2nd RP
jimxxx 22/Mar/15 Lead

Fell just as I made the break and took the big swing . Got back on and made it second time .

thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
hilty 12/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Took the whipper at the end of the traverse, had ten then got it clean, awesome route, highly recommended!!

Andy Smallwood 15/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Good advice to use the sling in the tree, I didn't and fell in the greasy crack after the crux break, massive pendulum and 6stitches in the back of my head at Stoke a&e

robman 26/Jul/14 Lead dog

traversed out and pulled up to break but got pumped!

spidermonkey09 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Got to the rockover but vertical crack was terrible. Took the massive pendulum and sprained ankle quite badly. Moral of the story is, sling the tree!

bede.west 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 01/Apr/14 Lead

Finally committed to the rockover, scary! (Then spent way too long faffing with cams in the crack.)

Hidden 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

2 belayers. v.similar to Apoloosa Sunset; moves and rock not quite as good but position makes it more intense.

HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Used the sneaky sling round the tree, made the traverse much more bearable.

angus 04/Dec/13 Lead β
with Philbert
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with hosey
Nick Russell 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Got to the end of the traverse then ran out of ideas. I'll come back after a bit of slab practice.

w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

scary! nearly muffed the crux, v glad i didn't

with ben
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

The most scared I was all weekend, green and slimy!

Hidden ??/2012 -
colesy 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S

With Ged, wouldn't be much fun to fall off after the traverse!

Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead RP
Brown 14/Aug/11 Lead
with Lilifa
pie_eater_pete 24/May/11 Lead
with bwestwood
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
highlux 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Quite freaky for e3.

phil64 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S

awesome.... more exciting as the break was damp!!

with dave morse
willoates 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S

not too bad, found it hardest getting established on the traverse. good to get the head back in the zone...psych high!

with Steve
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 2nd β
northy1983 ?/Oct/10 Lead

really good

with andi t
gnc760 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Muffed the crux and took the swing into the corner. I'd liken it to a real solid rugby hit - managable but you'd rather not. Will be back with better tactics

with Conor Clarke
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead dog

Sketched through the crux only to fall off pulling up into the bottom of the hand crack due to a combination of green, damp mingingness and jamming ineptitude.

Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett, Tom Powel
tom.e 18/Oct/09 Lead β
Misha 13/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Got to the break below the jamming crack twice and each time had the pleasure of experiencing the pendulum - pretty safe. Gave up and finished up Pebbledash, the short traverse into it was quite tricky. Need to have another go, ideally on a cooler day.

NDD 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Danny
nige 20/Feb/09 Lead
with john reti
Ben Harper 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Will retry with a runner in the Mincer. Tree has gone.... maybe now E4?

with Robeverybody
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
AJ007 11/Aug/07 2nd dog
with Dan
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Toby Dunn 28/Mar/07 2nd
with dave evans
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Tremendous route. First move on the traverse the hardest. Reached for the break 3 times before committing to matching it. The break could benefit from a brush. Recommend second rope from the tree to prevent a bruising collision with the groove of Pebbledash in the event of a fall.

with Mike Garton
Hidden ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
mbutton ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Oct/03 2nd O/S
unfit ??/2003 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Gus 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with kev the tree, andi elizabeth turner
goi.ashmore 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
uphillnow 22/May/97 2nd
with Mark Gray
clark alston ?/May/97 Lead O/S

Bold & brill.

switch ??/1997 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ??/1997 TR O/S
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden 07/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
phardman 12/May/96 2nd
with Jon Bibby
ste_d 12/May/95 Lead O/S
with mik
nai ??/1995 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Sep/94 -
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead O/S
andrew300169 16/Apr/93 2nd O/S

I found this really hard on the drop down. My feet just slid down the face while I was hanging onto the hold like hell. Left a semi circle of black rubber!

with Pom
whispering nic ?/Oct/91 Lead
with slow hand nick
Roget 17/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with baccy
Rich Kirby 12/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 2nd O/S

Seconded sometime around 1990.

Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mark Kemball 01/Apr/84 Lead
with Paul Clark
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden 03/Jul/82 2nd
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 2nd
with Rory Gregory
Paul Clarke ??/1975 Lead
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Votes cast 35
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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