14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once past the crucial overhang, things ease dramatically. © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ivan Kileff 27 Jul Show βeta
βeta: We could only get a few moves up this before coming off. Had a look at the Roaches definitive guide later and it has this as VS 5a; the Severe variation actually starts in the corner and meets the direct variation at the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We could only get a few moves up this before coming off. Had a look at the Roaches definitive guide later and it has this as VS 5a; the Severe variation actually starts in the corner and meets the direct variation at the overhang.
stu84 30 May Show βeta
βeta: This route is nothing like a Severe. I have climbed things much harder and at a lot of locations and found this grade to be misleading to the point of being dangerous. I enjoyed the challenge and completed the route after a few attempts but someone who leads at a severe grade could well hurt themselves attempting this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is nothing like a Severe. I have climbed things much harder and at a lot of locations and found this grade to be misleading to the point of being dangerous. I enjoyed the challenge and completed the route after a few attempts but someone who leads at a severe grade could well hurt themselves attempting this.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mr Spoons 5 Aug Lead dog
glilje 19 Apr 2nd dog Hard
Hard
norris.dan 19 Apr Lead dog This was f*cking mental. How is this a Severe?!
with glilje
This was f*cking mental. How is this a Severe?!
with glilje
IWasJack 27 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S I thought this was nails! Pulling onto the slab from the overhang at the very start was not easy!
I thought this was nails! Pulling onto the slab from the overhang at the very start was not easy!
IWasLuke 27 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Need to commit more to the left foot... trust the feet!
Need to commit more to the left foot... trust the feet!
Remi Richards 14 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
with Artem, Charloam
with Artem, Charloam
Charloam 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Artem Zavrin, Remi Richards
with Artem Zavrin, Remi Richards
BrizzleChris 7 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
RobHearnden 13 May, 2018 Lead
maxtaylor 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
stu84 ?Jul, 2017 TR
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Jake397 28 Dec, 2016 2nd
with Charlie Tansley
with Charlie Tansley
w-watson 8 Oct, 2016 Solo
noemie5438 18 Jul, 2015 Lead
with AmyG
with AmyG
AmyG 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
eaf4 18 Jul, 2015 - VS back home
with Noemie, AmyG
VS back home
with Noemie, AmyG
Flavio 27 May, 2015 Solo O/S
musgravet 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S So much harder than i thought it was going to be!
with Sam Reynolds, Matt Benson
So much harder than i thought it was going to be!
with Sam Reynolds, Matt Benson
Rob Gillespie ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Ky 21 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
with Pete Bridgewood
Tophe 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ben Ochner
with Ben Ochner
Stopsy 7 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Tried the 5a VS start, it's certainly that alright!
Tried the 5a VS start, it's certainly that alright!
j.townley 7 Jun, 2013 2nd dog
with Stopsy
with Stopsy
gobey 5 May, 2013 Lead dog a good start, forgot to use the LHS in the mid section, certainly not a Severe any many contenders failed on the start.
with Paul
a good start, forgot to use the LHS in the mid section, certainly not a Severe any many contenders failed on the start.
with Paul
Dan Vaj 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
stratandrew 21 Apr, 2013 2nd dog Got my arse well and truly spanked seconding this. Out of practice on grit after the winter. Much harder than it looks.
Got my arse well and truly spanked seconding this. Out of practice on grit after the winter. Much harder than it looks.
augustus trout 21 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Nice to see progression. Direct star again but this time a lot cleaner and I can appreciate that its strenuous but well protected. I'd say its a very 'traditional' VS 4c.
Nice to see progression. Direct star again but this time a lot cleaner and I can appreciate that its strenuous but well protected. I'd say its a very 'traditional' VS 4c.
Knot-Paul 5 Apr, 2013 2nd dog
with gobey
with gobey
joe1joe1joe2 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S The direct start through the wide crack, makes for a tough start. The crack was good fun and an excellent route all round, although I believe it to be harder than VS without a doubt!
with Darren Burns
The direct start through the wide crack, makes for a tough start. The crack was good fun and an excellent route all round, although I believe it to be harder than VS without a doubt!
with Darren Burns
saffy ??, 2013 -
joedoherty 8 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S not very nice, wet and mossy
with Josh Rigby
not very nice, wet and mossy
with Josh Rigby
Killianmurphy 11 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Did the Direct start at VS 5a, then had to ab down to collect gear as my second couldn't do the start
Did the Direct start at VS 5a, then had to ab down to collect gear as my second couldn't do the start
Muttly 9 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf not so much did not finish as did not start. COuldn't work out the opening sequence at the end of a tired day just after a fall. One to look at with fresh eyes.
with Jooblia
not so much did not finish as did not start. COuldn't work out the opening sequence at the end of a tired day just after a fall. One to look at with fresh eyes.
with Jooblia
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 2nd
Rich Long 23 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Difficult rock over and couldn't get established in crack
Difficult rock over and couldn't get established in crack
mike.rigby 26 May, 2012 Lead dnf
with ben.phillips, Pete Chaplin, Aufton, Homebrew165
with ben.phillips, Pete Chaplin, Aufton, Homebrew165
ben.phillips 26 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
tzettle ??, 2012 -
andrew hammond 23 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Jackspratt 12 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
pete_fewings 11 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
Double Knee Bar 9 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Colin, EZ
with Colin, EZ
timatherton 6 May, 2011 2nd O/S
phil.cheeseman 6 May, 2011 Lead O/S
tradguy 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Rob Munday
with Rob Munday
maxkellock 3 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with chris
with chris
Duffers 26 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf Bloody hell, couldn't even manage to get going properly, damaged a nut (luckily not the bodily part), got proper pi***d off and lost my rag with this one. Don't know why I couldn't get up, its only a Severe!
with Alex
Bloody hell, couldn't even manage to get going properly, damaged a nut (luckily not the bodily part), got proper pi***d off and lost my rag with this one. Don't know why I couldn't get up, its only a Severe!
with Alex
Humm1985 ??, 2011 2nd
Jamie Bevan ??, 2011 2nd
Murray Lee Brown 13 Nov, 2010 Lead dnf not severe as guidebook told me, the start was much harder. Almost lost some gear but Eliot got it back for me after trying the problem.
not severe as guidebook told me, the start was much harder. Almost lost some gear but Eliot got it back for me after trying the problem.
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 TR O/S
JasonV 17 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 TR rpt
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
CMoore 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
augustus trout 23 Jan, 2010 2nd dog V Diff when I did it, very glad everyone else thought it was hard sopping wet and greasy with thick moss the crack is all you can really use, my tape and arms were a livid green afterwards. Thanks to paul I got up it.
with Paul Mitchell
V Diff when I did it, very glad everyone else thought it was hard sopping wet and greasy with thick moss the crack is all you can really use, my tape and arms were a livid green afterwards. Thanks to paul I got up it.
with Paul Mitchell
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
paul mitchell ??, 2010 - Did this climb in the soaking wet,thus very poor friction.In the wet harder than some E3's. paul mitchell
Did this climb in the soaking wet,thus very poor friction.In the wet harder than some E3's. paul mitchell
jepotherepo ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
ben comery 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Mr. K 23 May, 2009 Lead dnf
with Bryn Wood
with Bryn Wood
Hidden 2 May, 2009 TR rpt
zard 2 May, 2009 Lead dnf Tried to lead but failed pretty soon, was marked S 4b in our guidebook, definitely much harder. Had to set up on top to rescue the gear.
Tried to lead but failed pretty soon, was marked S 4b in our guidebook, definitely much harder. Had to set up on top to rescue the gear.
Hidden 23 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2009 2nd
Rob Laird 12 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2009 Lead
emilysmile ?Mar, 2009 TR
willoates ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
joelewisoutdoor 14 Feb, 2009 Lead
with Emily Anniballi
with Emily Anniballi
keith leonard ??, 2009 -
Lunar25 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rich Till
with Rich Till
jepotherepo ?Oct, 2008 Lead
with dawn
with dawn
Smudge03 1 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with Carl Schnabel
with Carl Schnabel
MattT88 15 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf Second Trad lead fall, Inverted
Second Trad lead fall, Inverted
pepperpot 10 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf Bloody awful! Did Sifta's Quid before which is supposed to be the same grade. It felt MUCH MUCH harder to me.
with Ralph Atkinson
Bloody awful! Did Sifta's Quid before which is supposed to be the same grade. It felt MUCH MUCH harder to me.
with Ralph Atkinson
Andy Miller ?Jun, 2008 -
Hidden 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S
will9911 29 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with dave
with dave
TCHEKE ??, 2008 -
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
james.f.williamson 4 Aug, 2007 Lead dog hardest 4b i've ever climbed, would like to do again clean
hardest 4b i've ever climbed, would like to do again clean
ebunick 4 Aug, 2007 Lead dnf destroyed at the end of the day.... hardest 4b ive ever tried!
with Joe
destroyed at the end of the day.... hardest 4b ive ever tried!
with Joe
Hidden 29 Apr, 2007 Solo O/S
Nature_Boy12689 23 Mar, 2007 TR RP
with Nadia Williams
with Nadia Williams
little trev ??, 2007 -
Hidden 3 Dec, 2006 Lead
little trev ?Dec, 2006 -
with Rhys + Luke
with Rhys + Luke
jchenoweth 22 Jul, 2006 Lead dog
with Dave Love and Samian
with Dave Love and Samian
Chesh 6 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S Blowing a gale - Ellie couldn't follow
with Ellie
Blowing a gale - Ellie couldn't follow
with Ellie
mark s ??, 2005 -
Danhan 19 Oct, 2002 2nd
Gus ??, 2001 Lead
tlr ??, 2000 Solo
craig h 8 Oct, 1998 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
with Jamie Lillieman
roncaves 30 May, 1994 Solo
Iain Thow 15 May, 1993 Lead
with Rosy Wright
with Rosy Wright
Roget 14 Jul, 1990 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden 12 Nov, 1988 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Oct, 1988 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 4 Apr, 1988 Solo O/S
Andy Fielding ??, 1980 Lead
with Mike Gilbert
with Mike Gilbert
Nigel Coe 13 May, 1978 -
with Steve Portnoi
with Steve Portnoi
rogerskews ??, 1974 -
Rog Wilko ?Dec, 1970 2nd
with ??
with ??
mikej 1 Nov, 1970 Solo
with Steve Evans
with Steve Evans
oldmanofmow ??, 1960 Lead Not a route that appealed to me
Not a route that appealed to me
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 15
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set