UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once past the crucial overhang, things ease dramatically. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Mlewis 28 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: not a severe...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not a severe...
Ivan Kileff 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We could only get a few moves up this before coming off. Had a look at the Roaches definitive guide later and it has this as VS 5a; the Severe variation actually starts in the corner and meets the direct variation at the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We could only get a few moves up this before coming off. Had a look at the Roaches definitive guide later and it has this as VS 5a; the Severe variation actually starts in the corner and meets the direct variation at the overhang.
stu84 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is nothing like a Severe. I have climbed things much harder and at a lot of locations and found this grade to be misleading to the point of being dangerous. I enjoyed the challenge and completed the route after a few attempts but someone who leads at a severe grade could well hurt themselves attempting this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is nothing like a Severe. I have climbed things much harder and at a lot of locations and found this grade to be misleading to the point of being dangerous. I enjoyed the challenge and completed the route after a few attempts but someone who leads at a severe grade could well hurt themselves attempting this.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 15
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Velvet

Grade: S 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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