14m.
Rockfax Description
Starting in the gully, traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not well-protected, rather polished, and can be green. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fraser kid | 7 Aug |
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βeta: Absolute loads of solid gear on this. Not sure what the chat is about it being bold? You can get a bomber green dragon in standing on the big steps in the bottom of the mini roof crack, while holding the left flakes. Yes, would be an extra move if you’re short, but the gear is great. Then a ready made slot for a red cam in the break above, then got a gold cam in the flakes going right, then a purple cam just before the top. All excellent and closely spaced. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Absolute loads of solid gear on this. Not sure what the chat is about it being bold? You can get a bomber green dragon in standing on the big steps in the bottom of the mini roof crack, while holding the left flakes. Yes, would be an extra move if you’re short, but the gear is great. Then a ready made slot for a red cam in the break above, then got a gold cam in the flakes going right, then a purple cam just before the top. All excellent and closely spaced. |
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| Andy Merrick | 30 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Start is tricky with not much gear and a step out to the left | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start is tricky with not much gear and a step out to the left |
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| Monk | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: I tried all sorts of gear in those cracks and couldn't get anything to stay in. They look good from the ground but aren't. Very pleasant climbing though would scare any severe leaders and probably many VS leaders too. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I tried all sorts of gear in those cracks and couldn't get anything to stay in. They look good from the ground but aren't. Very pleasant climbing though would scare any severe leaders and probably many VS leaders too. |
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| leon | 25 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: i think small wires and micro cams may aid in protection. | ||
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βeta: i think small wires and micro cams may aid in protection. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 2 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: This route is actually given HS 4a in the guidebook which is probably a better grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route is actually given HS 4a in the guidebook which is probably a better grade. |
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| lithos | 21 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: err i soloed this on sight and though the grade about correct - maybe HS. If it thought it was VS 4b i wouldnt have gone near it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: err i soloed this on sight and though the grade about correct - maybe HS. If it thought it was VS 4b i wouldnt have gone near it. |
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| hoseyb | 4 Mar, 2002 |
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βeta: first reliable gear is practically at the top. polished to boot. first class sandbag | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: first reliable gear is practically at the top. polished to boot. first class sandbag |
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Route of Interest
Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)