UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Starting in the gully, traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not well-protected, rather polished, and can be green. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

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User Date Notes
Andy Merrick 30 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Start is tricky with not much gear and a step out to the left
βeta?
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βeta: Start is tricky with not much gear and a step out to the left
Monk 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I tried all sorts of gear in those cracks and couldn't get anything to stay in. They look good from the ground but aren't. Very pleasant climbing though would scare any severe leaders and probably many VS leaders too.
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βeta: I tried all sorts of gear in those cracks and couldn't get anything to stay in. They look good from the ground but aren't. Very pleasant climbing though would scare any severe leaders and probably many VS leaders too.
leon 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i think small wires and micro cams may aid in protection.
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βeta: i think small wires and micro cams may aid in protection.
Alan James - Rockfax 2 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This route is actually given HS 4a in the guidebook which is probably a better grade.
βeta?
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βeta: This route is actually given HS 4a in the guidebook which is probably a better grade.
lithos 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: err i soloed this on sight and though the grade about correct - maybe HS. If it thought it was VS 4b i wouldnt have gone near it.
βeta?
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βeta: err i soloed this on sight and though the grade about correct - maybe HS. If it thought it was VS 4b i wouldnt have gone near it.
hoseyb 4 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: first reliable gear is practically at the top. polished to boot. first class sandbag
βeta?
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βeta: first reliable gear is practically at the top. polished to boot. first class sandbag

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 134
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 121
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jeffcoat's Buttress

Grade: HS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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