Rockfax Description
12m. A mini-Mincer and quite popular, though this one is easier for the tall. From the foot of the odd perched flake, climb the grungy groove to the overhang and layback rapidly rightwards round this to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

themattyshep 06/Aug Lead β
with Amy L
Rob Gillespie 05/May Lead rpt
alanblyth 04/May Lead dog

After Matt gave up at the crux, thought I should give it a go, fell first time, but finished once committed to the underclings, spicey start and thuggy finish - nice.

themattyshep 04/May Lead dnf
crossleysm 23/Apr Lead rpt
with Derek Woo
derekwwl 23/Apr 2nd
with simon crossley
Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
Mike W 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Andrew Abraham 05/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd dnf
jon_gill1 01/Apr Lead O/S
with Alan Segar
amccann 25/Mar 2nd O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
mikespooner 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Mikey Blakey
john lynch 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ant King
aking12 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
slab_happy 07/Oct/16 2nd
dr_botnik 07/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Clare
Dan Geh 05/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Rob Gillespie 03/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with M60OON
M60OON 03/Oct/16 Lead dog

Tackled this in the dark with head torch, got over pumped on the roof section then fell. Managed to get back up and finish. Great route and not a bad effort on my first HVS 5b lead.

with rob 528
Anti-faff 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Jas Wood
jungle 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Had to crimp, so backed off. Need the finger to heal!

Noah Near-Theholds 07/Aug/16 Lead
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
Calum Wadsworth 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Found this quite tricky, decent route though.

with Shaun H
Hillson 24/Jul/16 2nd
PeteWilson 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

i found this quite pumpy at the roof actually, quick flyer just to do this route

PaulTanton 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Nice little route

with Francis Butler
sambosanquet101 05/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Lucas Fries
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
themattyshep 21/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Jack
Graeme Hammond 17/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Hindley
Chris Murray 25/Mar/16 Lead
DanChad 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
JRJones 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

nice route. Top's a bit heathery. Traverse is fun. Rob backed off, having not lead in a year, so I jumped on. I was informed that it was HS, but at it turns out Rob just can't operate a guidebook. Pink tricam helps low down.

with Rob Law
OliverRoss 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
owain-1978 15/Oct/15 2nd
steely 15/Oct/15 Lead
owain-1978 14/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Sport climbed it on Iain's gear after 'The great fall' of 2015.

Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Rob Rocket 03/Aug/15 2nd
Scooter Young 03/Aug/15 Lead
Robaduck 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Will Murphy
Will Murphy 10/Jun/15 Lead
with Cal, Andy
FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #11

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
James Oakes 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with noaks
gazfellows 05/Apr/15 Lead

Harder than it looks!!

with Nic
John Higgs 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

On some of Al's gear, after he gave up.

kermit_uk 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
saffy ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
Julesthe1st 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Laura, Paul Wolf
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
fuzzysheep01 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Naomi Walker
p.j.deacon 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

19/31. Short and sweet, a good route.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

19 on Staffordshire nose. Nice little route.

with Nick
Rosie Henstock 15/Jul/14 2nd dog
TGreen 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jack 9895 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
crossleysm ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Walker
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Ky 21/May/14 2nd O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
mickd 19/May/14 2nd
Peakphil 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Pleasant little route, if slightly unbalanced.

with Bernie
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR rpt
bede.west 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

bit short yes 1 star.

wazzalad20 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard moves out of the roof!

HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
switch 29/Mar/14 Lead
with John S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
jon22 16/Mar/14 Lead
with ste boote
Tophe 08/Mar/14 2nd β
with Dan
dannyboy83 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
robgixer ??/2014 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Nick Barratt
Hidden ?/Oct/13 Lead
Andy Fielding 08/Sep/13 Lead
Dale ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very good, Found this quite hard, powerful.

with dave
rob.grafton 27/Jul/13 -
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
riff156 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jul/13 2nd
with steve
Lukeh121 ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
adrianj 29/Jun/13 Lead
hellboundblr 29/Jun/13 2nd
with Adrian Jones
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
bryan61 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with dan bates
djromberg 04/May/13 -
Hidden 26/Apr/13 2nd rpt
cem 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hannes B 04/Apr/13 2nd
with DebsB
efrance24234 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Morgan P 25/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Was feeling good after Commander Energy and lead this. The crux took a few tries and reverses to the corner to rest to get but got it clean.

pearson9596 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Hiscox
MJS ??/2013 -
Rob Gillespie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson ??/2013 -
aipattison 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

previously led with a fall 13/May/06 with Creeky

Steeve 08/Oct/12 Lead O/S
willoates 08/Oct/12 Lead β

on steve's gear for convenience

with Steve
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
Bullybones 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Neil
northy1983 ?/Aug/12 Lead

short but sweet

with andi t
nepsoi999 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with sophie
Thinker01 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becster
becster 25/Jul/12 2nd
Double Knee Bar 05/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Bloody hard work. Bomber gear. Good job as I fell on it 4 or 5 times. One to come back to.

treg 26/May/12 Lead dog

Great climb. Had to sit on the rope after a number of failed attempts at committing to the crux and not finding the rest quite as restful as I needed. Once I remembered to actually lay back into my layback, the feet just stuck to the lovely gritty wall.

with Beka
helenstuart 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Brill climb

with Mike
climbinmunkey 05/May/12 2nd β

Short but very involving! Did this after The Mincer and found the 'Mincing' part on this harder!

with Helen
Steve Waters, Mynydd 24/Apr/12 Lead

A bit bold to get to the roof - the only pro I could find was a couple of nuts behind a creaky flake. (Apparently there used to be more flakes!). Couldn't stretch to the good foot holds first time on the crux but managed somehow to reverse for a rest and re-appraisal. Got it second time. Brought back happy memories of the crux on the top pitch of Thin Wall Special!

mtempest 24/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave89 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Brian
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
duncan 23/Oct/11 2nd
lost.arrow 16/Oct/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Mr Tickle 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
eeonz 21/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd
robman 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/11 Lead
keith Lonsdale 12/Jul/11 2nd
andyjirvin 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

One fall and a couple of rests! The fall was while I was talking and just trying to get into a resting position - completely unnecessary! Foot slipped off. After that had to compose myself and try the crux a couple of times. Bomber gear in the undercut. Not too bad when you actually commit and go for it - high feet help. Would come back to do clean.

jalien 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

First HVS. Almost a one-move-wonder; had a bit of a faff before committing to the move out to the corner. Pity it's a bit short.

paul horabin 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 21/May/11 Lead
with Emma
Emma-Louise Anderson 19/May/11 Lead dog

Worked out a good sequence for my feet but couldn't commit first time. Rested on the bomber gear, retreated to the ledge and then smashed it! : ) Awesomeness.

galpinos 11/May/11 2nd
with Sam
Col Kingshott 07/May/11 Lead O/S
dan_o_b ?/May/11 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 27/Apr/11 Lead dog

Had to lower from roof to ponder the move around nose.Reclimbed and finished clean- annoyed to miss out on the on sight- but also pleased that I eventually got on with it !

with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 27/Apr/11 2nd
with Dad
emmarowe 24/Apr/11 2nd
edmitchell 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Neil D 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Nadeem Rahim, Beth Hodgett
Betha. 22/Apr/11 2nd dog

fell trying to get gear out at the jug under the overhang

bnewman 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Thin gear to start. Almost fell off the crux.

with Laurie, Amelia
lukebowman551 23/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Craig Shelley
Craig Shelley 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
scotty h 04/Mar/11 TR dnf

We only had an attempt at it because we were right by it and figured why not.

with Steve Hammond, Lewis Mansell
JayAyBee ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Pat
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
jamesgodwin64 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with chris fox
mark_chal 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
rosieposey14 13/Nov/10 2nd
with mark challoner
Cossar 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Garron 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mike4563 22/Sep/10 2nd RP

Both had 2 goes at leading it, Ben got it on his second go.

with Ben Woody Woodward
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
jshields 12/Sep/10 Lead
with Gavin
GF 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kyle Rance 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Louise Grimster
Hidden 07/Aug/10 2nd dnf
juza 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Two star climb!!!

with Gordon P
pord 05/Aug/10 2nd dnf
with Danny, John Parton, Justin
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd dog
hellboundblr 31/Jul/10 2nd
with John Carlin
adamwesthead 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Hoult, Zeb
zebster 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Nick, Adam
Rob Davies 11/Jul/10 2nd

Done this before, but couldn't lead it

with Phil Ashton
JEP 04/Jul/10 Lead
Andy Hardy 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nr 19/Jun/10 2nd
Solcambs 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Could not make the traverse ... old age, bad fingers, and lacking in bottle for the first climb of the day.

fatbuoybazza 30/May/10 Lead dog
with phil
lukehodson 01/May/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Harry Thorpe 12/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
peter myers ??/2010 2nd
with Tim Lewis
Mike Parker 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
rwm7131 17/Oct/09 Lead
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
Martin Cooper 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Stan
Tadams 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Finnegan Pope-Carter
Andrew Abraham ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
siah 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with gavin nixon
tommytwotone 11/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Ian Andrews 09/May/09 Lead
Glyn Davidson 09/May/09 2nd dog

Grrrr, this should have been easier! Came off the traverse with freezing cold fingers although I doubt that's what caused me to fall.

Hidden 27/Apr/09 2nd
pauldrew 23/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
DannyK 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Katie
JCB42 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant nut placement before the edge of the crack! Lay-back & trust thine feet!

with Tom Lister
masa-alpin 21/Mar/09 Lead dog

1 fall.

with Adam W
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Murray
NickHobbs ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Jeff
Hidden 06/Oct/08 2nd
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
khawk 30/Aug/08 Lead
with DT
barni 26/Aug/08 2nd
with Oli
Elsier 23/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Michael, Stuart
dja 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
djking1983 22/Jun/08 Lead

good lead, tricky stretch move aross crux

with Rich Brimelow
richardhopton 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
AndyM-LVB 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
AndyM-LVB 14/Jun/08 TR dog
with Brendan Ferguson
Mike W ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Rampikino 29/May/08 Lead

Sound climbing, though nervy to get to the roof. Had to use 2 of my smallest wires for confidence.

with Cat
will9911 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with dave
nickwhimster ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Brian Cox
mat cooper 09/Feb/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
sdht ??/2008 -
Dan 85 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Katie Marshall 04/Nov/07 2nd
mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead
with andi t
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead dog
eduardo 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sylvain, Mark H
ebunick 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Jez
AngelaC 06/May/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
tatz45 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S
joe larner 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
cem 10/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Miles Butteriss
mattyork2 05/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
Will Hunt 16/Dec/06 Lead dog

Freezing cold. Damp to say the least. Foot slipped and decked from the first small flake. Couldnt feel fingers. Took first fall on gear. Eventually struggled on and continued the traverse right to finish up Flake Chimney. Screaming from the hot aches at the top. One for the summer mehinks.

with Jamie
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead
Rob Davies 09/Jul/06 2nd
with Angus McLean
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Stig 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
ASchwirtz 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Hanna Wride
Chesh 15/Apr/06 Lead
with Phil B
reg_measures 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Luke
goi.ashmore 28/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
JPGR ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Andy
lost.arrow 15/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
DavidR 13/May/05 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 03/Apr/05 -
with Stu Sherwood
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd dnf
thetourist 28/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/04 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 18/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
Gus ??/2003 Lead
lost.arrow 30/Mar/02 -
cem 22/Jul/01 2nd
with Rod Strachan
Hidden 13/Jun/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead dnf

Very hot,feet slipped under overhang, gear ripped, decked out & only broke Scaphoid, Result.

lost.arrow 12/Jun/98 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1998 Lead
with Richard Ibberson
A Crook 27/Aug/97 TR
with Dad
Chris Murray ?/Jun/97 2nd
with Richard Bower
Hidden ??/1997 Lead dog
nige ??/1996 Lead
with john buckley
robtrooper ??/1996 -
brady 09/Sep/95 2nd
with John Cameron
Hidden 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Carl Hamer 05/Jun/93 Lead O/S

long reach to move right

with Chris Weiner
timreynolds 03/May/93 Lead

First HVS lead - Steve told me it was only VS!

Hidden 05/May/92 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/91 TR
Raggar 31/Mar/91 2nd
with Steve B
Hidden 22/May/90 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/90 Lead
Roget ??/1990 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead
Tom V ??/1986 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set