10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1975

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, On Peak Rock

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UserDateNotes
Aly 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me.
UKB Shark 6 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went.
Ricardo 13 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting.
mark s 27 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dave Mayes 8 Sep 2nd Good faffing from James
Good faffing from James
JayAyBee 8 Sep Lead G/U Tried a couple of years ago and came off. Great route - felt hard and airy. Good feeling topping out
Tried a couple of years ago and came off. Great route - felt hard and airy. Good feeling topping out
td72 8 Apr Lead O/S
with katie93
with katie93
plant_based_tommo 24 Feb 2nd β
with Rob tree
with Rob tree
Danny Crump 22 Sep, 2018 TR
with Rob Laird
with Rob Laird
Hidden 26 May, 2018 2nd
Alice Thompson 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Shaun, Ru
with Shaun, Ru
Andrew Abraham 24 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Put a rope down it first and top roped twice, no backing off the top move this time but I still had a little wobble at the top
with Ky
Put a rope down it first and top roped twice, no backing off the top move this time but I still had a little wobble at the top
with Ky
Ky 24 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Really chuffed to get this. Crack was but Pumpy and knacky, top was a really nice sequence above really good gear. Rewarding. Awesome sun set too
Really chuffed to get this. Crack was but Pumpy and knacky, top was a really nice sequence above really good gear. Rewarding. Awesome sun set too
Alex@home 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
James Oakes 12 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 11 May, 2016 Lead G/U Not a great warm up.. Jumped off with flash pump above the first gear. Did it properly later on.
with Mike W
Not a great warm up.. Jumped off with flash pump above the first gear. Did it properly later on.
with Mike W
Graeme Hammond 17 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Chris led it ground up, I 2nded easily so thought I should lead it too, more exciting on lead but in the bag.
with Chris Hindley
Chris led it ground up, I 2nded easily so thought I should lead it too, more exciting on lead but in the bag.
with Chris Hindley
Hidden ?Jan, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 6 Oct, 2015 Lead β
jimmysdead 20 Sep, 2015 2nd dog 3 falls. Tough route. Took the wrong line on the headwall.
with Jon Haddon
3 falls. Tough route. Took the wrong line on the headwall.
with Jon Haddon
Andrew Abraham 19 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Took a fall, went back up and got to the top out, started bricking it in the dark and backed off, poor show
with Ky
Took a fall, went back up and got to the top out, started bricking it in the dark and backed off, poor show
with Ky
Hidden 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 2nd
robertmichaellovell 26 Apr, 2015 Lead lovely
with Tim
lovely
with Tim
will9911 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
Hidden ??, 2015 -
thomas108 ??, 2015 Lead G/U
robman 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 6 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2014 TR RP
Andrew Abraham 21 May, 2014 2nd rpt Pumpy up to the ledge! Solid lead by Pete
Pumpy up to the ledge! Solid lead by Pete
Ky 21 May, 2014 2nd O/S Awesome but pumpy, bit of everything
with Pete Bridgewood
Awesome but pumpy, bit of everything
with Pete Bridgewood
John sealey 29 Mar, 2014 2nd
Si Witcher 29 Mar, 2014 Lead rpt
monsteratt 10 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Glad I decided to try and lead this - very chuffed to get it clean. Didn't feel as hard as I was expecting. Bit awkward getting gear in top crack.
Glad I decided to try and lead this - very chuffed to get it clean. Didn't feel as hard as I was expecting. Bit awkward getting gear in top crack.
Andrew Abraham 10 Nov, 2013 2nd Found it a little awkward pulling up the crack, but loved the route.
Found it a little awkward pulling up the crack, but loved the route.
Alistair Corbett 5 Oct, 2013 Lead 2nd attempt sweet route 3 stars!!
with Mike
2nd attempt sweet route 3 stars!!
with Mike
Mike W 26 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
ian d f 17 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
with Jacob, Tom C
with Jacob, Tom C
jacobjacob 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 17 Feb, 2013 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
with Ian Faulkner
Matt Cooke 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14 Mar, 2012 2nd
with malx
with malx
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Brown 14 Aug, 2011 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 Lead
Hannes B 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S scary
with Sandra & Pascal
scary
with Sandra & Pascal
pipof747 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 24 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Not ideal as a warm up route...
Not ideal as a warm up route...
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 TR dog
CharlieMack 6 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt
with David
with David
Hidden 28 Jan, 2011 TR dnf
highlux 20 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Absolute quality. Mantle is precarious - but all there... Perfect gear too.
Absolute quality. Mantle is precarious - but all there... Perfect gear too.
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
willoates 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S really nice, cool top move with good gear
with James, Chrissy
really nice, cool top move with good gear
with James, Chrissy
Hidden 23 Apr, 2010 TR O/S
quiffhanger ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 17 Nov, 2009 Lead
CharlieMack 17 Nov, 2009 2nd O/S Rik climbed it in ideal cold dry clean conditions, then as soon as i got on it, it started raining and getting really windy! Still got it clean though
Rik climbed it in ideal cold dry clean conditions, then as soon as i got on it, it started raining and getting really windy! Still got it clean though
siah 2 Jun, 2009 TR O/S
with gavin nixon
with gavin nixon
dan gibson 1 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 1 Jun, 2009 2nd
Mr Wild ?May, 2009 2nd
with krank
with krank
NDD 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 11 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
mark button 27 Sep, 2008 Lead
with Alex Adgar
with Alex Adgar
mux 14 Sep, 2008 -
with Simon Frost ,
with Simon Frost ,
frost 20 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with D Garry
with D Garry
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
mbutton ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
with Alex Adgar
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
with Pete Carmichael
with Pete Carmichael
Hidden 9 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 28 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with dave evans
with dave evans
Jus 18 Feb, 2007 Lead dnf Slimy holds at t'bottom of crack. Got v. pumped trying to place gear and then fell off.
Slimy holds at t'bottom of crack. Got v. pumped trying to place gear and then fell off.
mattyork2 5 Feb, 2007 2nd
with alaan
with alaan
Si01 4 Feb, 2007 TR O/S
alaan 4 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
with Matt
with Matt
UKB Shark 5 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S Lots of faffing before commiting myself - sorry again Dan for taking so long.
Lots of faffing before commiting myself - sorry again Dan for taking so long.
Mike_Hayes ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Steady with good gear Hard top.
Steady with good gear Hard top.
mark s ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
John Southworth ?Sep, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 12 Jul, 2003 Lead dog
Gus ?May, 2002 Lead O/S
with ben rouse, simon "the horse" wilson
with ben rouse, simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 17 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
with ciaran troup
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14 Mar, 1998 2nd
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
crossleysm ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
ste_d 12 May, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 1993 TR
NickJH ??, 1993 2nd rpt
with NCrawshaw
with NCrawshaw
Mark Kemball 21 Apr, 1992 2nd
with John Jefferies
with John Jefferies
Hidden 17 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 1991 TR
Roget 16 Apr, 1991 Lead O/S
with colin
with colin
channinga ??, 1991 -
Neil McA 13 Oct, 1990 Lead dnf failure!
with Martin Wilson
failure!
with Martin Wilson
Dave Musgrove 7 May, 1989 2nd
with Paul Dawson
with Paul Dawson
Hidden 13 Mar, 1987 Lead
Mark Kemball 1 Apr, 1984 2nd
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
stp 19 Jun, 1983 Lead 6 falls
6 falls
Mark Kemball 8 Mar, 1983 2nd
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
Mark Kemball 2 Apr, 1982 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set