Rockfax Description
10m. The ultra-sketchy slab left of Piece Of Mind is easy (ish) on a top-rope, but a mighty-bold solo. Some say it is only E7 6b but only those who have done it on-sight are really allowed to comment. © Rockfax

FA. Julian Lines 1992. Julian fell off it and was unharmed before he made the first ascent. Kevin Thaw was less lucky (see photo 2000

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Shock Of The New, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Rory_Cummings_NI 22/Sep/16 TR O/S
Teappleby 04/Oct/15 TR RP

Scarily easy. Second go. Should have flashed it really, but one silly foot slip. Got quite warm during the day so solo wasn't on. But even so did it about half a dozen times clean. One to come back for when I lose my mind and decide the solo is on.

M_Robinson 04/Oct/15 TR dnf
with Laura Brown
Laurabrown 04/Oct/15 TR dnf
Hidden 04/Oct/15 TR
Albachoss 08/Aug/15 TR dog
Hidden ??/2015 TR
CharlWelch ?/Nov/14 TR
Hidden 14/Jul/13 TR dog
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jul/13 TR
with steve
cragant 02/Jun/13 TR

Totally enjoyed this climb even though it was top roped.

monsteratt 27/Apr/13 TR dog
with Toby
MichaelGallimore 01/Sep/12 TR dnf

Used left arÍte of sifta's quid to bypass crux

tomdavenport 01/Sep/12 TR dnf
kez1 24/Jul/12 TR RP
with mike jones, james davies
will randall 27/Nov/11 TR dog
with tom
Jess Horton 16/Aug/11 TR

Absolutely loved this route, especially the more challenging second half (small, strong fingers were definitely an advantage)

robman 31/Jul/11 TR dnf


Hidden 29/Jul/11 TR dnf
benkelsey 21/Jul/11 TR dnf

hard enough on a top rope from about half way, good lad for getting on it a second time to the FA.

remus 20/Jul/11 TR dog

thin (whoda thought it!) managed to do all the moves but couldnt link it from the foot ledge to the upper section.

Hidden 26/Apr/11 TR
Hidden ?/Oct/10 TR
Hidden 29/Aug/10 TR dnf
Hidden 24/Aug/10 TR dnf
thrutch 09/Jul/10 TR
with helen
98%monkey 02/May/10 TR dnf

You would need grit in the blood to get this. Got about 3/4 the way up the top slab and managed the first of the real moves after the holds run out. Insanity.

Tomprusk 06/Mar/10 TR dnf

Got to the second to last move clean then couldn't do it

with Duncan
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
tallsop 06/Apr/09 TR

almost flashed, failed on top move. top move pretty hard but managed it in the end. would be a very scary solo, top move is very fuckupable.

with terry
Stoff ?/Apr/09 TR dnf
mic_b 24/Sep/08 TR RP
MattT88 27/Jul/08 TR rpt
dennett 22/Jun/08 TR
with calvin dennett
sarah87 11/Jun/08 TR dnf
MattT88 04/Jun/08 TR dog
with Christian
Hidden 29/May/08 TR O/S
maggsy 14/May/08 TR dnf

Got a good way up and then discovered why the route is an E7

MattT88 14/May/08 TR dog

Fell 5-6 times doing route

MattT88 14/May/08 TR dog

Fell twice on crux, rest climbed cleanly, done out of curiosity

ClaireS 11/May/08 TR dog
with Matt Turner
Ben1983 30/Sep/07 TR β
Richard Hession 12/Aug/06 TR RP

Quite nice till the top when you need to smear up cranking on a reasonable left hand pebble with stacked fingers and a shallow right mono dish, then slap for the top without feet sliding down! :)

with Dom

HMmmm tricky

with Mike Watkiss
Smelly Fox ?/Mar/05 Solo RP
Hidden ?/Feb/05 -
northy1983 ??/2005 Solo
Mark Collins 21/Feb/04 Solo RP
Mark Collins 24/Jan/04 TR rpt
Mark Collins 17/Jan/04 TR RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/Oct/03 TR dog
Gus ?/Jul/03 Solo

felt easier than/ similar to piece of mind

akhughes ??/2003 TR rpt
mark s ?/Jan/01 Solo RP
with charle woodburn
antroy 10/Apr/00 TR
John Mckeating ??/1998 TR dog
Davros the Psyched ??/1997 Solo RP

2 top ropes then solo. 10 minutes.

RossG ??/1996 TR
RossG123 ??/1996 TR
Dave Pritchard 22/Jun/94 Solo RP
Hidden 09/Sep/92 TR
17 users have this on their wishlist
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 12
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set