10m.

Rockfax Description
The ultra-sketchy slab left of Piece of Mind is easy (ish) on a top-rope, but a mighty-bold solo. Some say it is only E7 6b but only those who are interviewed while balancing precariously at the top of the slab are really allowed to comment. © Rockfax

FA. Julian Lines. Julian fell off it and was unharmed before he made the first ascent 1992

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Shock Of The New, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Dave Pritchard 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I am not sure that it is 6c. I found the few other 6cs that I have done much harder (for the record I flashed Obsession on top rope, repeated it on a couple of other occasions and then did it on the sharp end)
 
Show beta
βeta: I am not sure that it is 6c. I found the few other 6cs that I have done much harder (for the record I flashed Obsession on top rope, repeated it on a couple of other occasions and then did it on the sharp end)
Ally Smith 31 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Oli, is that Dave's ascent your talking about?
 
Show beta
βeta: Oli, is that Dave's ascent your talking about?
Adam Lincoln 1 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Oli! Do tell more?....!
 
Show beta
βeta: Oli! Do tell more?....!
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: a good slab route only the top moves tricky,avoid gear in the chipped hold
 
Show beta
βeta: a good slab route only the top moves tricky,avoid gear in the chipped hold
carl dawson 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: On a cold dry day, shocking straight forward... until the final couple of moves. Must be terrifying to lead; so if toproping take extreme care to avoid clumsy footwork or rope damage.
 
Show beta
βeta: On a cold dry day, shocking straight forward... until the final couple of moves. Must be terrifying to lead; so if toproping take extreme care to avoid clumsy footwork or rope damage.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 17 Oct TR RP
Hidden 18 Aug TR dog
Matt Smith 18 Aug TR O/S
Remi Richards 9 Apr TR dog Couldn't do the hardest few moves after several attempts so slipped them. Floppy edgeless shoes weren't helping but probably beyond me regardless.
Couldn't do the hardest few moves after several attempts so slipped them. Floppy edgeless shoes weren't helping but probably beyond me regardless.
Jwatson 20 Feb TR RP Name makes sense.. feels areet
Name makes sense.. feels areet
Hidden 13 Feb TR
themattyshep 13 Feb TR RP Account Open!
Account Open!
parker_climbs 3 Nov, 2018 TR Surprisingly alright for the grade. Definitely bold. Hoping weather clears for the solo.
Surprisingly alright for the grade. Definitely bold. Hoping weather clears for the solo.
Hidden 13 Sep, 2018 Solo RP
Willly B ??, 2018 Solo RP Practiced on shunt for few hours then went for the lead above minimal pads , actually slipped off at about 8m slid down said slab, missed the pads and brused my ankles and ego , then a very nice man and his 3 legged dog came up and lent me another pad , so jumped back on and did it.
Practiced on shunt for few hours then went for the lead above minimal pads , actually slipped off at about 8m slid down said slab, missed the pads and brused my ankles and ego , then a very nice man and his 3 legged dog came up and lent me another pad , so jumped back on and did it.
Andy Peak 1 2 Mar, 2017 TR Very good and very thin a few difrent ways to do it.
Very good and very thin a few difrent ways to do it.
Rory_Cummings_NI 22 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
Laurabrown 4 Oct, 2015 TR dnf
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 TR
Teappleby 4 Oct, 2015 TR RP Scarily easy. Second go. Should have flashed it really, but one silly foot slip. Got quite warm during the day so solo wasn't on. But even so did it about half a dozen times clean. One to come back for when I lose my mind and decide the solo is on.
with Hanniric, Emma Jackson, Calum Wadsworth, MSchobitz
Scarily easy. Second go. Should have flashed it really, but one silly foot slip. Got quite warm during the day so solo wasn't on. But even so did it about half a dozen times clean. One to come back for when I lose my mind and decide the solo is on.
with Hanniric, Emma Jackson, Calum Wadsworth, MSchobitz
M_Robinson 4 Oct, 2015 TR dnf
Albachoss 8 Aug, 2015 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2015 TR
CharlWelch ?Nov, 2014 TR
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 TR
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 TR dog
Si the merciless 2 Jun, 2013 TR Totally enjoyed this climb even though it was top roped.
Totally enjoyed this climb even though it was top roped.
monsteratt 27 Apr, 2013 TR dog
with Toby
with Toby
tomdavenport 1 Sep, 2012 TR dnf
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 TR dnf
kez1 24 Jul, 2012 TR RP
with mike jones, james davies
with mike jones, james davies
will randall 27 Nov, 2011 TR dog
with tom
with tom
Jess Horton 16 Aug, 2011 TR Absolutely loved this route, especially the more challenging second half (small, strong fingers were definitely an advantage)
Absolutely loved this route, especially the more challenging second half (small, strong fingers were definitely an advantage)
robman 31 Jul, 2011 TR dnf almost!!!!
almost!!!!
Hidden 29 Jul, 2011 TR dnf
benkelsey 21 Jul, 2011 TR dnf hard enough on a top rope from about half way, good lad for getting on it a second time to the FA.
with remus
hard enough on a top rope from about half way, good lad for getting on it a second time to the FA.
with remus
Hidden 20 Jul, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 26 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 TR
Hidden 29 Aug, 2010 TR dnf
Hidden 24 Aug, 2010 TR dnf
thrutch 9 Jul, 2010 TR
with helen
with helen
Hidden 2 May, 2010 TR dnf
Tomprusk 6 Mar, 2010 TR dnf Got to the second to last move clean then couldn't do it
Got to the second to last move clean then couldn't do it
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
tallsop 6 Apr, 2009 TR almost flashed, failed on top move. top move pretty hard but managed it in the end. would be a very scary solo, top move is very fuckupable.
with Milne
almost flashed, failed on top move. top move pretty hard but managed it in the end. would be a very scary solo, top move is very fuckupable.
with Milne
Stoff ?Apr, 2009 TR dnf
mic_b 24 Sep, 2008 TR RP
MattT88 27 Jul, 2008 TR rpt
dennett 22 Jun, 2008 TR
with calvin dennett
with calvin dennett
sarah87 11 Jun, 2008 TR dnf
MattT88 4 Jun, 2008 TR dog
with Christian
with Christian
Hidden 29 May, 2008 TR O/S
maggsy 14 May, 2008 TR dnf Got a good way up and then discovered why the route is an E7
with MattT88
Got a good way up and then discovered why the route is an E7
with MattT88
MattT88 14 May, 2008 TR dog Fell 5-6 times doing route
with maggsy
Fell 5-6 times doing route
with maggsy
MattT88 14 May, 2008 TR dog Fell twice on crux, rest climbed cleanly, done out of curiosity
with maggsy
Fell twice on crux, rest climbed cleanly, done out of curiosity
with maggsy
ClaireS 11 May, 2008 TR dog
with Matt Turner
with Matt Turner
Ben1983 30 Sep, 2007 TR β
Richard Hession 12 Aug, 2006 TR RP Quite nice till the top when you need to smear up cranking on a reasonable left hand pebble with stacked fingers and a shallow right mono dish, then slap for the top without feet sliding down! :)
with Dom
Quite nice till the top when you need to smear up cranking on a reasonable left hand pebble with stacked fingers and a shallow right mono dish, then slap for the top without feet sliding down! :)
with Dom
RETICENTFISH 7 Aug, 2006 TR dnf HMmmm tricky
with Mike Watkiss
HMmmm tricky
with Mike Watkiss
Smelly Fox ?Mar, 2005 Solo RP
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 -
northy1983 ??, 2005 Solo
Mark Collins 21 Feb, 2004 Solo RP
Mark Collins 24 Jan, 2004 TR rpt
Mark Collins 17 Jan, 2004 TR RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11 Oct, 2003 TR dog
Gus ?Jul, 2003 Solo felt easier than/ similar to piece of mind
felt easier than/ similar to piece of mind
akhughes ??, 2003 TR rpt
mark s ?Jan, 2001 Solo RP
with charle woodburn
with charle woodburn
antroy 10 Apr, 2000 TR
John Mckeating ??, 1998 TR dog
Davros the Psyched ??, 1997 Solo RP 2 top ropes then solo. 10 minutes.
2 top ropes then solo. 10 minutes.
RossG123 ??, 1996 TR
RossG ??, 1996 TR
Dave Pritchard 22 Jun, 1994 Solo RP
Hidden 9 Sep, 1992 TR
28 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 15
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set