12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Bold and satisfying though sometimes a bit dirty. From the ledge on the right traverse out left to reach the airy arete and balance up this to a juggy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Probably Joe Brown, late 1950s 1957

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Hen Cloud, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Si dH 21 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The top is very simalar to Slowhand next-door - two low sidepulls for hands and a pocket to step in to. Bold, worth E1, but not 5b at all. I thoguht the crux was the start, whchi was smeary, insecure and completely unprotected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top is very simalar to Slowhand next-door - two low sidepulls for hands and a pocket to step in to. Bold, worth E1, but not 5b at all. I thoguht the crux was the start, whchi was smeary, insecure and completely unprotected.
Jon Stewart 23 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: a bit filthy, and not the best rock around, but beautiful climbing. i found all the worthwhile gear (that which didn't rip striaght through the sugary rock when gently tugged) to be in the same break. very likable though, and like your man says, a finely positioned crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a bit filthy, and not the best rock around, but beautiful climbing. i found all the worthwhile gear (that which didn't rip striaght through the sugary rock when gently tugged) to be in the same break. very likable though, and like your man says, a finely positioned crux.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
phil64 14 May Lead O/S Really good climb and situations, note...a bigish cam in the flutings would have made finish safer and less runout!
with matt dean
Really good climb and situations, note...a bigish cam in the flutings would have made finish safer and less runout!
with matt dean
Graeme Hammond 24 Sep, 2017 Lead β abseiled with the intention brushing (after other climbs being very scrittly that day) but decided it looked OK so instead just pulled out the grass on the scoop ledge and made it covered in woodlice. Cleaned and checked holds were clean enough (did one move, they were still too dirty so brushed better, so maybe not quite a flash then!). Bold at the top but large cams in the fluting before the final rounded dirty top out in retrospect should have been fine but felt scary. Rock better than guide makes out. Worth doing 2*.
with Neil Colquhoun
abseiled with the intention brushing (after other climbs being very scrittly that day) but decided it looked OK so instead just pulled out the grass on the scoop ledge and made it covered in woodlice. Cleaned and checked holds were clean enough (did one move, they were still too dirty so brushed better, so maybe not quite a flash then!). Bold at the top but large cams in the fluting before the final rounded dirty top out in retrospect should have been fine but felt scary. Rock better than guide makes out. Worth doing 2*.
with Neil Colquhoun
prcleary 13 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Tim Miller
with Tim Miller
Hidden 23 May, 2017 Lead
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
The Grist 2 Oct, 2016 2nd
dan gibson 29 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
MischaHY 10 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Easy bottom section with a sting in the tail! The runout at the top was scary and the last few sloping holds made for an excellent top out.
Easy bottom section with a sting in the tail! The runout at the top was scary and the last few sloping holds made for an excellent top out.
Coel Hellier 20 Apr, 2013 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Pretty unsure and slow ascent. Quite jittery at the top, but with good gear.
Pretty unsure and slow ascent. Quite jittery at the top, but with good gear.
Hidden ??, 2008 -
davek 29 May, 2007 2nd
with Shaun L
with Shaun L
Hidden 7 Nov, 2006 2nd
Si dH 21 Oct, 2006 2nd O/S Crux wasnt the top, it was the bottom! Unless youre supposed to traverse slightly higher? (we went up the arete all the way really) A couple of insecure smeary 5a moves on crumbly rock wit habsolutely no gear - pretty scary and full-on E1. Good lead by Neil (I had backed off it to do do slowhand in preference just before)
with Neil Furniss
Crux wasnt the top, it was the bottom! Unless youre supposed to traverse slightly higher? (we went up the arete all the way really) A couple of insecure smeary 5a moves on crumbly rock wit habsolutely no gear - pretty scary and full-on E1. Good lead by Neil (I had backed off it to do do slowhand in preference just before)
with Neil Furniss
mark s ??, 2005 -
Coel Hellier ??, 2004 Lead
Dave Garnett ?Aug, 2003 2nd
Jon Read ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Gus 12 Sep, 2002 Lead
steveb2006 19 Jun, 2002 2nd Tim ?
Tim ?
Stone Muppet ??, 2002 -
Hidden 4 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 Lead
Martin Bennett 3 Jul, 1994 -
with MT
with MT
Neil McA 20 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
with Nick Lewis
with Nick Lewis
Roget 23 Jun, 1992 Solo rpt
Roget 26 May, 1990 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
steveb2006 30 Sep, 1989 Lead
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
charlesmfrench 8 Jun, 1986 2nd O/S
with Dave Booth
with Dave Booth
Hidden 25 Jul, 1985 Lead
Steve Lewis 22 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Ken Taylor 21 Sep, 1982 TR
Hidden 1 Jul, 1982 Lead
Nic Robinson 1 Jul, 1982 Lead O/S
with Roy Stupak
with Roy Stupak
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set