28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the grade!
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance.
2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless you are pumped senseless) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

hfotheri 29/Oct/17 AltLd dnf

Led pitch 1, didn't have the energy for pitch 2, will be back for it another time.

with simon
TimCul 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
ian d f 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2

patrickcd 17/Sep/17 AltLd
with Andy
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/17 AltLd G/U

Fell off the top of the 2nd pitch on my first go - missed the jam

with Deacon
deacondeacon 06/Aug/17 Lead

Onsighted the first pitch, fell off the second pitch. Theo came to save me, but fell off too (cos he's rubbish at climbing too). Both scraped up it in the end. First pitch hard E1 Second pitch E2

hotfeet 17/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Did first pitch clean. Second pitch beat me - took a rest.

with marcduhig
marcduhig 17/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Alan
Rory_Cummings_NI 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Cake 07/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Dogged 2nd pitch after trying a few times. Sorry

with Matt
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
jimlear ??/2017 Lead G/U
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
benw681 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

top pitch is nails!

with Hannah
Andrew Abraham 17/Sep/16 AltLd dog
with Ky
John sealey 07/Aug/16 Lead

Foot slip adjusting my position on the second pitch so tuck a little lead fall. Back on finish it. Fecking pumpy number!!!

with Helen Renard , Dave Garry
sampollitt 09/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead dnf
Kelsey ?/Jul/15 2nd
with James
JayAyBee ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S


with Nuala
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
leoch01 19/Oct/14 2nd dog

first pitch was nice and balancey. some run out gear many being micronuts. second pitch attempted lead got 3/4 way up hard as nails finger crack. came down, steve dogged his was up it my First E1 climb

strudles 19/Oct/14 Lead dog

1st pitch clean onsight, second pitch siege tactics with much sitting on cams

with Leo choi
Krista 29/Sep/14 2nd dog
switch 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Laura, James
LRob 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jwhereat 09/Aug/14 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 12/Jul/14 -

Huge sandbag. 1st pitch is steady and nice. 2nd pitch is nails. No way this should be E1 5b.

Hidden ??/2014 -
pauldrew 27/Sep/13 AltLd
with Rick Newcombe
leglesslizard ?/Sep/13 Lead dog

1st Pitch Clean

mark s 31/Aug/13 2nd
with andi t
Mike W 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

Awesome, technical first pitch, E1 5b in isolation. Got this clean (thank goodness - the gear was quite distant!) but then hung on a cam inches from the top of p2. A bit disappointed by this, but at least I get to come back to it. Benchmark Hen Cloud E1, I think.

with Simon
bede.west 07/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Seconded 1st pitch on-sight, 2nd pitch lead and got beasted around 4 falls and painful hands great gear though

with stu
Si dH 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

Hidden 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Chriswallis2 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
RM199 05/May/13 Lead dog

1st pitch clean E1 on its own, bold 2nd pitch dogged, hard E1

Jonathan Hall 05/May/13 AltLd
Jenny Clarke ?/May/13 2nd
Coel Hellier 20/Apr/13 Lead
climbingpixie 14/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Led P1, fell off seconding P2 due to terminal pump and cold hands. Gutted not to get it cleanly but it felt very hard!

with Andy
Hidden 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
julesmckim 09/Sep/12 AltLd

Hmmm, not as good as I wanted it to's in Hard Rock so was expecting a mega-classic. Good climbing, but a large section at the top is VS, just one hard move on each pitch making it feel a bit disjointed

Mr Wild 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

second pitch

timmyhobby 05/Jul/12 Lead dog

lead pitch 1 clean then tryed to lead pitch 2 and took a swinger!

Russell Blackaller 05/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Bry 02/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Mike
Mike_Hayes 02/Oct/11 Lead
johnnyboulton 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Second both pitches

with Simon Hills
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Top pitch felt very hard (I led the first - which felt E1 on it's own).

with Mike
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
al99 30/Aug/10 Lead dog

I thought I was a solid E1 leader, I also thought I was OK at hand jamming, this climb showed me both were untrue. Led the climb as 1 pitch, no problem, but I fell out of the upper crux (where the jamming crack slants left). Just couldn't get the jam to stick. Great gear, definately E1 but maybe a 5c move I think.

Alex Winter 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First pitch only

Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Misha 04/Oct/09 Lead dog

Fell off due to a foot slipping just as I got to the hard section of the jamming crack. Started again from the belay ledge and had to have a rest at the horizontal crimp just before the crack slants left. Need to get more proficient at jamming! The direct finish with lowish siderunners proved pretty scary. P1 was nice and steady.

eduardo 04/Oct/09 2nd dog
with Misha
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

ACE, could have done with the broken cam on my bedroom floor to propely protect the crux on the first pitch :o So was needlessly sligtly scared doing the crux. Led the 2nd pitch as well after phil failed to lead, thought it as quite easy by comparison maybe even 5a? (would have been too pumped to have done it all in one go though)

with Phil Baxter
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Lead the whole thing in one long pitch. Got quite frustrated with bottom crux and nearly gave up, then on the 2nd pitch after placing a bomber wire half way up the crack and retreating for a rest, jammed like a mother fucker and topped it out in one push. Awesome

Ebarnes 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Ben Heason
Jon Read 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Both pitches; a treat.

with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/08 AltLd
Twisty 07/Jun/08 Lead

Cleanly led the first pitch- with desperate gear- need more small cams and micro nuts! Couldn't make the last pitch- me and Byron tried and failed, then faffed getting the gear! One to go back and lead

with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 07/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 31/May/08 AltLd rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel Hassall
middlevern ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Mike Blood
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Oct/07 AltLd
Toby Dunn 29/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Tom Randall
DavidEvans 31/May/07 AltLd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx 30/Jul/06 2nd
Coel Hellier 05/Jul/06 AltLd
with Pat
dan gibson 24/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 24/Jun/06 AltLd dog
with Dan
Lawrence Eccles 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Skell ??/2005 Lead dog
with Steve
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/Nov/04 2nd
with Jim Barradale
Rich Kirby 31/Oct/04 AltLd rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 31/Oct/04 AltLd
cem 04/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 23/May/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Rob Kinsey ??/2003 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
Hidden 19/Jun/02 AltLd
Gus ??/2002 -
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1998 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jun/95 AltLd
Chris Ellis 09/Jun/95 2nd
with Silvio Murgia
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
Martin Bennett 03/Jul/94 -
with MT
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Jun/92 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 Lead
with Pete Finklaire, David
Rich Kirby 14/Jun/92 2nd
NickJH ?/Jun/91 2nd O/S
with N Hancock
adi bryant 28/May/91 Lead O/S
sadams 16/Sep/90 AltLd
with Mark Bonham
Raggar 28/Jul/90 2nd
with Steve B
Roget 06/May/90 AltLd O/S
with jim
Hidden 30/Sep/89 Lead dog
Rob Davies ?/Jun/88 2nd dog

Came unstuck on P2

uphillnow ?/Jul/86 AltLd

did pitch 2

Hidden 25/Jul/85 AltLd
Neil McA 03/Dec/83 Lead O/S
with Andy Scrase
tmawer 03/Jul/83 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Hidden 01/Jul/82 AltLd
The Reaper 12/Jul/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/81 Lead
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 35
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
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