28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the grade!
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance.
2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless you are pumped senseless) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s 1962

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Hen Cloud

Feedback

UserDateNotes
GrahamD 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant varied climb spoilt only slightly by being easily escapable at the mid height ledge.
JTL 30 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the jamming crack is easy at speed (ie solo)i have done harder 4c's in the peak, a nice varied route
Toby Dunn 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5c?! hmmm... the jamming is easier than, say, matinee: a tad steep but with solid jams. pretty standard E1.
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing, but that jamming crack is waay-pumpy towards the top!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Maddy BP 2 Jul 2nd dog Got up first pitch okay but found it pretty hard. Got part way up the crack on the second pitch but couldn't get pins out and had to come back down to ledge and go up to the left of the crack and join the route further up to finish.
Got up first pitch okay but found it pretty hard. Got part way up the crack on the second pitch but couldn't get pins out and had to come back down to ledge and go up to the left of the crack and join the route further up to finish.
phil64 14 May Lead O/S Sweet, techy p1 jammy p2......awesome!
with matt dean
Sweet, techy p1 jammy p2......awesome!
with matt dean
James Oakes 5 May Lead O/S Direct finish, probably e2 5b
Direct finish, probably e2 5b
Mark Warnett ?May Lead O/S second pitch, jugs and bomber gear through to a couple of proper perfect jams, strenuous but over quickly. Finished accidently and scarily up the E2 unprotected wall, put a cam thankfully under a boulder at the top, pulled on the boulder which was loose! Terrified, scuttled off right on jugs in the break back to easy territory
with Andy O'Conner
second pitch, jugs and bomber gear through to a couple of proper perfect jams, strenuous but over quickly. Finished accidently and scarily up the E2 unprotected wall, put a cam thankfully under a boulder at the top, pulled on the boulder which was loose! Terrified, scuttled off right on jugs in the break back to easy territory
with Andy O'Conner
rowland penty 13 Apr AltLd O/S I lead second pitch
I lead second pitch
themattyshep 29 Mar AltLd O/S Stu led P1 I led P2. Either I went the wrong way, it’s not as hard as it says on the tin or I’m good at jamming. I highly doubt the latter!
Stu led P1 I led P2. Either I went the wrong way, it’s not as hard as it says on the tin or I’m good at jamming. I highly doubt the latter!
WilliamRupp 28 Mar AltLd O/S
Alpinelegend69 ?Feb Lead O/S
grady 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
jrccrosby 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd dog Fell on lead on the hard bit on the second pitch, met Grades at the belay.
with grady
Fell on lead on the hard bit on the second pitch, met Grades at the belay.
with grady
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18 Oct, 2018 AltLd
with Nick Hancock
with Nick Hancock
NinaR 28 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog Led first pitch. Fell off second pitch when crack goes left after taking gear out and as Henry traversed and belayed way off left I swung off into a wall so finished up Central Climb.
Led first pitch. Fell off second pitch when crack goes left after taking gear out and as Henry traversed and belayed way off left I swung off into a wall so finished up Central Climb.
john lynch 12 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with ed luke
with ed luke
bclifton 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Rachael Paxton 7 Jul, 2018 2nd
Lady Vee 10 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Even as a second this was one of my hardest outdoor climbs to date. Took everything I had to get jammed into the crack and up the second pitch.
with cdpuk
Even as a second this was one of my hardest outdoor climbs to date. Took everything I had to get jammed into the crack and up the second pitch.
with cdpuk
cdpuk 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 26 May, 2018 2nd
PeteWilson 15 May, 2018 AltLd Second pitch, found it hard and pumpy! Could Only get one good jam. Not fit enough for this caper at the moment.
with John R
Second pitch, found it hard and pumpy! Could Only get one good jam. Not fit enough for this caper at the moment.
with John R
hfotheri 13 May, 2018 Lead dog Led both pitches, dogged the crack
with simon
Led both pitches, dogged the crack
with simon
Q.Estelles 13 May, 2018 Lead dog Messed up in the second pitch, went of balance while placing gear
Messed up in the second pitch, went of balance while placing gear
hfotheri 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd dnf Led pitch 1, didn't have the energy for pitch 2, will be back for it another time.
with simon
Led pitch 1, didn't have the energy for pitch 2, will be back for it another time.
with simon
TimCul 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
ian d f 23 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2
with TimCul
Led P2
with TimCul
patrickcd 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with Andy
with Andy
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U Fell off the top of the 2nd pitch on my first go - missed the jam
Fell off the top of the 2nd pitch on my first go - missed the jam
deacondeacon 6 Aug, 2017 Lead Onsighted the first pitch, fell off the second pitch. Theo came to save me, but fell off too (cos he's rubbish at climbing too). Both scraped up it in the end. First pitch hard E1 Second pitch E2
Onsighted the first pitch, fell off the second pitch. Theo came to save me, but fell off too (cos he's rubbish at climbing too). Both scraped up it in the end. First pitch hard E1 Second pitch E2
hotfeet 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog Did first pitch clean. Second pitch beat me - took a rest.
with marcduhig
Did first pitch clean. Second pitch beat me - took a rest.
with marcduhig
marcduhig 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Alan
with Alan
Rory_Cummings_NI 13 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ali
with Ali
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Cake 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog Dogged 2nd pitch after trying a few times. Sorry
Dogged 2nd pitch after trying a few times. Sorry
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
jimlear ??, 2017 Lead G/U Tricky moves and gear on the first pitch, lots of pump and big lobs on the second swapping efforts with Sam. Nails for E1, mint though.
Tricky moves and gear on the first pitch, lots of pump and big lobs on the second swapping efforts with Sam. Nails for E1, mint though.
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
benw681 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog top pitch is nails!
with Hannah
top pitch is nails!
with Hannah
Ky 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Andrew Abraham 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog
with Ky
with Ky
John sealey 7 Aug, 2016 Lead Foot slip adjusting my position on the second pitch so tuck a little lead fall. Back on finish it. Fecking pumpy number!!!
with Helen Renard , Dave Garry
Foot slip adjusting my position on the second pitch so tuck a little lead fall. Back on finish it. Fecking pumpy number!!!
with Helen Renard , Dave Garry
sampollitt 9 Sep, 2015 2nd
Matthew Glenn 9 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Lead the first pitch fine got massively shut down on second pitch, pump !! Need to learn to crack climb first.
Lead the first pitch fine got massively shut down on second pitch, pump !! Need to learn to crack climb first.
NualaK ?Jul, 2015 2nd
JayAyBee ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Hard!!!
with NualaK
Hard!!!
with NualaK
Seymore Butt ??, 2015 Lead
with Ian Fenton
with Ian Fenton
leoch01 19 Oct, 2014 2nd dog first pitch was nice and balancey. some run out gear many being micronuts. second pitch attempted lead got 3/4 way up hard as nails finger crack. came down, steve dogged his was up it my First E1 climb
first pitch was nice and balancey. some run out gear many being micronuts. second pitch attempted lead got 3/4 way up hard as nails finger crack. came down, steve dogged his was up it my First E1 climb
strudles 19 Oct, 2014 Lead dog 1st pitch clean onsight, second pitch siege tactics with much sitting on cams
with Leo choi
1st pitch clean onsight, second pitch siege tactics with much sitting on cams
with Leo choi
Krista 29 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
Si Witcher 28 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
with Laura, James
with Laura, James
LRob 5 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
jwhereat 9 Aug, 2014 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 12 Jul, 2014 - Huge sandbag. 1st pitch is steady and nice. 2nd pitch is nails. No way this should be E1 5b.
Huge sandbag. 1st pitch is steady and nice. 2nd pitch is nails. No way this should be E1 5b.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
pauldrew 27 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with Rick Newcombe
with Rick Newcombe
leglesslizard ?Sep, 2013 Lead dog 1st Pitch Clean
1st Pitch Clean
mark s 31 Aug, 2013 2nd
with andi t
with andi t
Mike W 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 7 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Awesome, technical first pitch, E1 5b in isolation. Got this clean (thank goodness - the gear was quite distant!) but then hung on a cam inches from the top of p2. A bit disappointed by this, but at least I get to come back to it. Benchmark Hen Cloud E1, I think.
with Simon
Awesome, technical first pitch, E1 5b in isolation. Got this clean (thank goodness - the gear was quite distant!) but then hung on a cam inches from the top of p2. A bit disappointed by this, but at least I get to come back to it. Benchmark Hen Cloud E1, I think.
with Simon
treesrockice 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog Seconded 1st pitch on-sight, 2nd pitch lead and got beasted around 4 falls and painful hands great gear though
Seconded 1st pitch on-sight, 2nd pitch lead and got beasted around 4 falls and painful hands great gear though
Si dH 24 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led second pitch
Led second pitch
Hidden 20 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Chriswallis2 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
RM199 5 May, 2013 Lead dog 1st pitch clean E1 on its own, bold 2nd pitch dogged, hard E1
1st pitch clean E1 on its own, bold 2nd pitch dogged, hard E1
Jonathan Hall 5 May, 2013 AltLd
with Tamati
with Tamati
Jenny Clarke ?May, 2013 2nd
Coel Hellier 20 Apr, 2013 Lead
climbingpixie 14 Oct, 2012 AltLd dog Led P1, fell off seconding P2 due to terminal pump and cold hands. Gutted not to get it cleanly but it felt very hard!
with Pagan
Led P1, fell off seconding P2 due to terminal pump and cold hands. Gutted not to get it cleanly but it felt very hard!
with Pagan
Hidden 14 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
julesmckim 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd Hmmm, not as good as I wanted it to be...it's in Hard Rock so was expecting a mega-classic. Good climbing, but a large section at the top is VS, just one hard move on each pitch making it feel a bit disjointed
with GeoMike
Hmmm, not as good as I wanted it to be...it's in Hard Rock so was expecting a mega-classic. Good climbing, but a large section at the top is VS, just one hard move on each pitch making it feel a bit disjointed
with GeoMike
Mr Wild 26 Aug, 2012 Lead dog second pitch
second pitch
timmyhobby 5 Jul, 2012 Lead dog lead pitch 1 clean then tryed to lead pitch 2 and took a swinger!
lead pitch 1 clean then tryed to lead pitch 2 and took a swinger!
Russell Blackaller 5 Jul, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Bry 2 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes 2 Oct, 2011 Lead
with Bry
with Bry
johnnyboulton 31 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Second both pitches
with Simon Hills
Second both pitches
with Simon Hills
John Mckeating ??, 2011 -
thomasadixon 30 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Top pitch felt very hard (I led the first - which felt E1 on it's own).
with mwatson
Top pitch felt very hard (I led the first - which felt E1 on it's own).
with mwatson
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 2nd
al99 30 Aug, 2010 Lead dog I thought I was a solid E1 leader, I also thought I was OK at hand jamming, this climb showed me both were untrue. Led the climb as 1 pitch, no problem, but I fell out of the upper crux (where the jamming crack slants left). Just couldn't get the jam to stick. Great gear, definately E1 but maybe a 5c move I think.
I thought I was a solid E1 leader, I also thought I was OK at hand jamming, this climb showed me both were untrue. Led the climb as 1 pitch, no problem, but I fell out of the upper crux (where the jamming crack slants left). Just couldn't get the jam to stick. Great gear, definately E1 but maybe a 5c move I think.
Alex Winter 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S First pitch only
with jiles
First pitch only
with jiles
jiles 25 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Misha 4 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Fell off due to a foot slipping just as I got to the hard section of the jamming crack. Started again from the belay ledge and had to have a rest at the horizontal crimp just before the crack slants left. Need to get more proficient at jamming! The direct finish with lowish siderunners proved pretty scary. P1 was nice and steady.
Fell off due to a foot slipping just as I got to the hard section of the jamming crack. Started again from the belay ledge and had to have a rest at the horizontal crimp just before the crack slants left. Need to get more proficient at jamming! The direct finish with lowish siderunners proved pretty scary. P1 was nice and steady.
eduardo 4 Oct, 2009 2nd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S ACE, could have done with the broken cam on my bedroom floor to propely protect the crux on the first pitch :o So was needlessly sligtly scared doing the crux. Led the 2nd pitch as well after phil failed to lead, thought it as quite easy by comparison maybe even 5a? (would have been too pumped to have done it all in one go though)
with Phil Baxter
ACE, could have done with the broken cam on my bedroom floor to propely protect the crux on the first pitch :o So was needlessly sligtly scared doing the crux. Led the 2nd pitch as well after phil failed to lead, thought it as quite easy by comparison maybe even 5a? (would have been too pumped to have done it all in one go though)
with Phil Baxter
Hidden 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Lead the whole thing in one long pitch. Got quite frustrated with bottom crux and nearly gave up, then on the 2nd pitch after placing a bomber wire half way up the crack and retreating for a rest, jammed like a mother fucker and topped it out in one push. Awesome
Lead the whole thing in one long pitch. Got quite frustrated with bottom crux and nearly gave up, then on the 2nd pitch after placing a bomber wire half way up the crack and retreating for a rest, jammed like a mother fucker and topped it out in one push. Awesome
Ebarnes 17 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Ben Heason
with Ben Heason
Jon Read 3 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Both pitches; a treat.
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Both pitches; a treat.
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 2nd
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Luke Brooks 6 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Twisty 7 Jun, 2008 Lead Cleanly led the first pitch- with desperate gear- need more small cams and micro nuts! Couldn't make the last pitch- me and Byron tried and failed, then faffed getting the gear! One to go back and lead
with Byron Buck
Cleanly led the first pitch- with desperate gear- need more small cams and micro nuts! Couldn't make the last pitch- me and Byron tried and failed, then faffed getting the gear! One to go back and lead
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 7 Jun, 2008 2nd dog
with Twisty
with Twisty
Hidden 31 May, 2008 AltLd rpt
Tom Briggs 17 Feb, 2008 Lead rpt
with Rachel Hassall
with Rachel Hassall
middlevern ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Mike Blood
with Mike Blood
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 AltLd
Toby Dunn 29 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
DavidEvans 31 May, 2007 AltLd
Adam Ellwood 31 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
richgac 21 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
feilx 30 Jul, 2006 2nd
Coel Hellier 5 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Pat
with Pat
dan gibson 24 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 24 Jun, 2006 AltLd dog
Lawrence Eccles 3 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
with A. Crook
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Skell ??, 2005 Lead dog
with Steve
with Steve
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
mark s ??, 2005 -
nickdonohue ?Nov, 2004 2nd
with Jim Barradale
with Jim Barradale
Rich Kirby 31 Oct, 2004 AltLd rpt
Tom Briggs 31 Oct, 2004 AltLd
cem 4 Sep, 2004 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 23 May, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
Rob Kinsey ??, 2003 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
with Nik Howard
steveb2006 19 Jun, 2002 AltLd Tim ? leads 1st pitch
Tim ? leads 1st pitch
Gus ??, 2002 -
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1998 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 1996 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jun, 1995 AltLd
Chris Ellis 9 Jun, 1995 2nd
with Silvio Murgia
with Silvio Murgia
Marti999 ??, 1995 Lead
Martin Bennett 3 Jul, 1994 -
with MT
with MT
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21 Jun, 1992 Lead
Dave Musgrove 20 Jun, 1992 Lead
with Pete Finklaire, Dave Musgrove Jnr
with Pete Finklaire, Dave Musgrove Jnr
Rich Kirby 14 Jun, 1992 2nd
Brian Wilderspin 4 Aug, 1991 -
with Steve Clegg, Perric Crellin
with Steve Clegg, Perric Crellin
Steve Clegg 4 Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Perric, Brian W
with Perric, Brian W
NickJH ?Jun, 1991 2nd O/S
with N Hancock
with N Hancock
adi bryant 28 May, 1991 Lead O/S
sadams 16 Sep, 1990 AltLd
with Mark Bonham
with Mark Bonham
Raggar 28 Jul, 1990 2nd
with Steve B
with Steve B
Roget 6 May, 1990 AltLd O/S
with jim
with jim
steveb2006 30 Sep, 1989 Lead dog Led both after Simon fails on second pitch but I also fall off bloodying my hand
with Simon Mee
Led both after Simon fails on second pitch but I also fall off bloodying my hand
with Simon Mee
Rob Davies ?Jun, 1988 2nd dog Came unstuck on P2
with Brian H
Came unstuck on P2
with Brian H
uphillnow ?Jul, 1986 AltLd did pitch 2
did pitch 2
Hidden 25 Jul, 1985 AltLd
Neil McA 3 Dec, 1983 Lead O/S
with Andy Scrase
with Andy Scrase
tmawer 3 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
with Simon Reed
Hidden 1 Jul, 1982 AltLd
The Reaper 12 Jul, 1981 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 1981 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set