12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the finger-crack in the third tower to its end then move right before stepping back left and teetering up the left-trending groove for a mildy bold finish. The Direct is E4 6b and not especially direct! © Rockfax

FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960. FA. (Direct) Gary Gibson 1981

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Hen Cloud

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Fiend 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A substantial route with continuously interesting climbing that tests a wide array of gritstone techniques. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the proximity of the gully. The definitive BMC grade of E1 5b is correct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A substantial route with continuously interesting climbing that tests a wide array of gritstone techniques. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the proximity of the gully. The definitive BMC grade of E1 5b is correct.
Neil Ireson 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 5a's a bit stingy. Fine, well protected climbing upto almost the last move when you have to leave the (good) gear at your feet. Not sure this deserves a fluttery heart as even if you fluff the worrying last moves you shouldn't hit the ground, and that's from a certified chicken.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5a's a bit stingy. Fine, well protected climbing upto almost the last move when you have to leave the (good) gear at your feet. Not sure this deserves a fluttery heart as even if you fluff the worrying last moves you shouldn't hit the ground, and that's from a certified chicken.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Edale 1 Jun Lead
with Yvonne
with Yvonne
Edale 1 Jun 2nd
with Yvonne
with Yvonne
runestone ?? 2nd
Graeme Hammond 24 Sep, 2017 2nd rpt
with Neil Colquhoun
with Neil Colquhoun
deacondeacon 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S The crack was harder than I expected and the run out was easier than expected.
The crack was harder than I expected and the run out was easier than expected.
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 23 May, 2017 2nd
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
The Grist 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
dominic lee 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Pete O'Donnovan
with Pete O'Donnovan
dannyboy83 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Claudia
with Claudia
Si Witcher 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with James
with James
Dave Rumney 3 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Tanya Milner
with Tanya Milner
Longsufferingropeholder 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 8 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Si dH 24 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
with Neil Furniss
Alistair Corbett 22 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden 20 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
jiles 31 May, 2013 2nd
Alex Winter 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S Great route, although escapable before the crux. Had to wipe a lot of bird shit off the final groove before going for it.
with jiles
Great route, although escapable before the crux. Had to wipe a lot of bird shit off the final groove before going for it.
with jiles
Hannes B 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with debsb
with debsb
debsb 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 26 Jun, 2012 2nd
Hidden 18 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
john lynch 11 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
with Ed Austin
with Ed Austin
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Jim Slater 30 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 30 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Good climbing with a bold finish, didn't climb particularly well but that made it feel sweater on finishing. Defo 5b as per latest guides.
Good climbing with a bold finish, didn't climb particularly well but that made it feel sweater on finishing. Defo 5b as per latest guides.
Fran S8 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
marcduhig 3 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf Was not sure of route finish.
with lizzie789, Andrew
Was not sure of route finish.
with lizzie789, Andrew
lizzie789 3 Sep, 2011 2nd dnf Dogged, finished at point leader did. End looked greeeen.
Dogged, finished at point leader did. End looked greeeen.
tmawer 15 Aug, 2011 2nd rpt
with Jaime Robertson
with Jaime Robertson
CharlieMack ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
tmawer 12 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with kevin
with kevin
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Owen W-G 4 Aug, 2007 Lead dnf Couldn't de-pump before the traverse R. Should've warmed up first!
with Simon Denison
Couldn't de-pump before the traverse R. Should've warmed up first!
with Simon Denison
DavidEvans 31 May, 2007 2nd
Adam Ellwood 31 May, 2007 Lead O/S
richgac 21 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Nick
with Nick
gregoritos ?Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Nov, 2006 Lead
mark s ??, 2005 -
Jon Read ?Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Gus 12 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 5 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 4 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 30 Aug, 1998 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 1995 2nd
Martin Bennett 3 Jul, 1994 -
with MT
with MT
Neil McA 20 Sep, 1992 2nd O/S
with Nick Lewis
with Nick Lewis
Roget 20 Aug, 1991 Solo O/S
Michael Hood 12 Aug, 1990 Lead
Nigel Bond 20 May, 1984 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
uphillnow 9 Oct, 1982 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set