UKC Logbook - Roaches E1 Challenge

Contributed by WillMancini May/25 - This public ticklist has been seen 202 times

Inspired by the 1968 Climber’s Guide to the Staffordshire Roaches and Hen Cloud Area, this is a list of Western Grit’s finest routes from the now-forgotten “Extremely Severe” grade. Focused on quality and character, it features many climbs originally graded E1. Since upgraded to reflect shifting standards and lasting challenge, with a few unmissable three-star HVS’s for good measure.

From the technical elegance of Elegy to the steep thuggery of Simpkin’s Overhang, the list captures a slice of Staffordshire’s climbing history, with a nod to pioneers like Mike Simpkins and Dave Jones.

It’s designed to be completed by a pair in a single, demanding day. Although a weekend’s effort is no disgrace. Tick them all, and you’ve earned major bragging rights.

whoo whooo, me leading my first E2, Roaches Upper Tier © siah — whoo whooo, me leading my first E2, Roaches Upper Tier
© siah, May 2008

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	WillMancini	78%	11 May
2nd	Grundy	67%	11 May

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Occasionally, everything’s just perfect ❤️ Pete Wilson contently immersed in a lovely gritstone evening! © Ky

Will hanging around on The Sloth, The Roaches. © Jack jk

Dave on "Elegy", Roaches Classic (E2 5c) © PeteWilson

No-hands rest on The Sloth ? Matt Culley exploring a new beta for the climb... © JacobIsaac772

Jesse Dufton on The Mincer at the Roaches © Molly Dufton

Gus lookin ralaxed on a sunny day at Hen Cloud. "Solid Geometry", E1-5b. © Smelly Fox

Dominic Oughton at the crux of Saul's Crack, Upper Tier © Paul Evans

Hilary cranking hard on The Sloth (HVS 5b), Roaches Upper Tier © Penny Allchin

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	HEN CLOUD
1	Bachelor's Left-hand	HVS 5b ***	708	24m		Hen Cloud
2	Hen Cloud Eliminate	HVS 5b ***	554	18m		Hen Cloud
3	Slimline	E1 5b **	105	8m		Hen Cloud
4	Solid Geometry	E1 5b **	111	8m		Hen Cloud
5	Encouragement	E1 5b ***	257	28m	• 2	Hen Cloud
6	Delstree	HVS 5a ***	482	18m		Hen Cloud
7	Chicken	E1 5b **	82	12m		Hen Cloud
8	Slowhand	E1 5b **	93	12m		Hen Cloud
9	Bulwark	E1 5b **	59	12m		Hen Cloud
	ROACHES LOWER
10	Commander Energy	E2 5c ***	1042	12m		Roaches Lower Tier
11	Hawkwing	E1 5b ***	843	22m		Roaches Lower Tier
12	Elegy	E2 5c ***	682	16m		Roaches Lower Tier
13	The Mincer	HVS 5b ***	874	24m		Roaches Lower Tier
14	Crack of Gloom	E1 5b **	102	20m		Roaches Lower Tier
15	Dorothy's Dilemma	E1 5a **	188	18m		Roaches Lower Tier
16	Teck Crack	E1 5c **	146	24m	• 2	Roaches Lower Tier
	ROACHES UPPER
17	The Sloth	HVS 5a ***	2573	24m		Roaches Upper Tier
18	Saul's Crack	HVS 5a ***	1850	18m		Roaches Upper Tier
19	Humdinger	E1 5b **	269	18m		Roaches Upper Tier
20	Wombat	E2 5b ***	447	20m		Roaches Upper Tier
21	Walleroo	E2 5c **	95	20m		Roaches Upper Tier
22	Simpkin's Overhang	E4 5c **	21	14m		Roaches Upper Tier
	SKYLINE
23	Safety Net	E1 5b ***	858	10m		Roaches Skyline
24	Shortcomings	E1 5c **	333	10m		Roaches Skyline
25	Mantis	E1 5b ***	232	8m		Roaches Skyline
	FIVE CLOUDS
26	Rubberneck	HVS 5a ***	611	14m		The Five Clouds
27	Flower Power Arête	E2 5c **	76	14m		The Five Clouds
28	Crabbie's Crack	HVS 5a ***	428	16m		The Five Clouds
		28 e, 71 stars	14,121	462m	30